Scientific Services

ABOARD A RESEARCH VESSEL VISITING ANTARCTIC SEA ICE. “NO TRIP IN THE FUTURE WOULD EVER COMPARE”

SAPRI trainees with DFFE team during top predator observations, back row left to right: Matthew Germishuisen, Thamsanqa Wanda, Estefan Pieterse, Makhudu Masotla, Oduka Ogugua. Middle row left to right: Lefa Morake, Mpumalanga Mnyekemfu, Sandra Maluleke, Yonela Mahamba. Front row: Jennifer Whittingham and Annah Mthombeni.

Although my time on board was busy, there was also time for quiet contemplation, here I am viewing a beautiful sunset over cold pancake ice floes in Antarctic waters (top) (Photo: Sandra Maluleke). Carrrying Go Flo bottles for CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, and Depth) deployment (below).

I was thrilled to learn that I was among ten applicants selected as SAPRI (South African Polar Research Institute) trainees to participate in the SCALE (Southern oCean seAsonaL Experiment) winter research cruise in 2022. The opportunity for SAPRI trainees was made available by the South African Environmental Observation Network (SAEON), funded by the Department of Science and Innovation (DSI) for early-career scientists who had no exposure to polar research. For me, a trip to Antarctica would only ever be possible through an expedition of this kind. And I must admit, I was anxious, and the expectations I had built for this trip were high.

I have been to sea many times, and I joined an expedition on board SA Agulhas II before. Yet, this opportunity was different in that it was going to Antarctic waters, and the Antarctic region is both utterly unique and rarely visited. I was particularly excited to get to the sea ice and explore one of the most isolated and remote regions on earth, though aware that no trip in the future would ever compare.

The morning that we embarked on the SA Agulhas II research vessel it dawned on me that we would not see any shores on this trip – we would mostly be in the deep embrace of the Southern Ocean and not within view of land. The voyage was from Cape Town to Cape Town!

The first night aboard ship, I struggled to sleep due to the rough seas and bad weather. Sea sickness followed soon after; I woke up feeling nauseous and sweating and could not eat the whole day. I must admit, my mentor had advised me to take motion sickness medication a day before departure, which I did not do. Luckily, the doctor on board gave me  medication and after two days I finally got my sea legs. I felt so much better, and finally, I could move around, go outside, and get some fresh air.

Dedicated scientists gave evening talks on polar science research, including oceanography, climate change, trace metals, phytoplankton, and top predators. We also had frequent briefing sessions with the chief scientist and other leading scientists, where they took us through their plans for the sampling stations.

Additionally, SAPRI trainees had training and observation sessions with different research teams. Life on board research vessels like SA Agulhas II is fastpaced and requires conducting the most amount of work possible during favourable weather conditions. Plans can quickly change depending on the weather. Some of the operations done at the research stations included measuring CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, and Depth), deploying a Marine Snow Catcher to quantify dissolved organic carbon, sea ice coring, and top predator observations (e.g., seabirds, seals, and whales), which took place regularly throughout the trip. The crew and scientists did an incredible job of orchestrating backup plans to ensure that research was done as planned.

It took us about six suspenseful days to reach Antarctic sea ice – getting to sea ice was the big highlight and excitement of this trip for me. Most days were windy, with temperatures below freezing point. I could feel my hands developing frostbite and getting numb. I did not know that one should not put very cold hands in hot water until I submerged mine and instantly regretted doing that because of the severity of the sting and burn.

A variety of facilities on board ensured our well-being such as the library, gym, and sauna. I used a sauna for
the first time and enjoyed it so much. We also had plenty of card and board games to play and socialise with other passengers.

I feel very privileged to have had an opportunity to experience the southernmost region of the Southern Ocean, dedicated to science and conservation. I am grateful to South African National Parks for allowing me to take part in this valuable expedition.

SAPRI trainees with the chief scientist (third from left, Marcello Vichii) during sea ice coring.

This article was written by Yonela Mahamba and originally published in the 2022/2023 Research Report.