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17 February 2023

A trip of a lifetime to Antarctic Sea ice

I was thrilled to learn that I was among ten applicants selected as SAPRI (South African Polar Research Institute) trainees to participate in the SCALE (Southern oCean seAsonaL Experiment) Winter research cruise in 2022. The opportunity for SAPRI trainees was made available by the South African Environmental Observation Network (SAEON), funded by the Department of Science and Innovation (DSI). The opportunity was for early-career scientists who had no exposure to polar research. For me, a trip to Antarctica would only ever be possible through an expedition of this kind. And I must admit, I was anxious, and the expectations I had built for this trip were high.

SAPRI trainees’ first day on board SA Agulhas II. Left to Right: Jennifer Whittingham, Thamsanqa Wanda, Lefa Morake, Yonela Mahamba, Annah Mthombeni, Sandra Maluleke, Oduka Ogugua, and Kurt Martin (Photo taken by SCALE participant).

I have been to sea many times, and I once joined an expedition on board SA Agulhas II. Yet, this opportunity was different in that it was going to Antarctic waters, and the Antarctic region is one of the rare destinations which surpasses the hype. I was particularly excited to get to the sea ice and explore one of the most isolated and remote regions on earth, though aware that no trip in the future would ever compare.

SAPRI trainees with DFFE team during top predator observations, back row left to right: Matthew Germishuien, Thamsanqa Wanda, Estefan Pieterse, Makhudu Masotla, Oduka Ogugua. Middle row left to right: Lefa Morake, Mpumalanga Mnyekemfu, Sandra Maluleke, Yonela Mahamba. Crouching: Jennifer Whittingham, and Annah Mthombeni (Photo taken by Kurt Martin).

One day before our departure, we all had a day to get tested for Covid-19, and we had to quarantine in a dedicated hotel. The next morning, on the 11th of July, we embarked on the SA Agulhas II research vessel. It dawned on me that we would not see any shores on this trip: we would mostly be in the deep embrace of the Southern Ocean and not within the view of the land. The voyage was from Cape Town to Cape Town!

There is something magical about the snow softly falling off your face (Photo taken by Kurt Martin).

The first night aboard SA Agulhas II, I struggled to sleep due to the rough seas and bad weather. Sea sickness followed soon after: I woke up feeling nauseous and sweating. I could not eat the whole day because nothing seemed to sit in my stomach. I must admit, my mentor advised me to take motion sickness medication a day before departure, which I did not do. Luckily, we had a doctor on board who gave me motion sickness medication. After two days on board, I finally got my sea legs. I felt so much better, and finally, I could move around, go outside, and get some fresh air.

Getting hands-on experience on ice core sampling (Photo taken by Kurt Martin).

Dedicated scientists did evening talks on polar science research themes (e.g., oceanography, climate change, trace metals, phytoplankton, top predators, etc.) to all the researchers on board. We also had frequent briefing sessions with the chief scientist and other leading scientists, where they took us through their plans for the sampling stations.

Preparations for the CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, and Depth) cast deployment. Left to Right: Yonela Mahamba, Gemma Portlock, and Susanne Fietz (Photo taken by Lisa Kumadiro).

Additionally, SAPRI trainees had training and observation sessions with different teams taking us through their respective research. Life on board research vessels like SA Agulhas II is fast-paced and requires conducting the most amount of work possible during favourable weather conditions. Plans for the research stations can quickly change depending on the weather. Some of the operations done at the research stations included measuring CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, and Depth), using a McLane Pump to quantify the extent of carbon export below the mixed layer of the ocean, deploying a Marine Snow Catcher to quantify dissolved organic carbon that sinks below the mixed layer of the ocean, sea ice coring, and top predator observations (e.g., seabirds, seals, and whales), which took place regularly throughout the trip. The crew and scientists did an incredible job of orchestrating backup plans to ensure that research got done as planned.

Left: Yonela Mahamba carrying Go Flo bottles for CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, and Depth) deployment. Right: Yonela Mahamba collecting water samples for trace metals (mercury and nutrients) from the GoFlo bottles in the clean container (Photo taken by Susanne Fietz).

To keep the trip from getting too serious, we had a variety of facilities one could use, such as the library, gym, and sauna. I used a sauna for the first time after it being suggested by my cabin mate and enjoyed it so much. We also had plenty of games (e.g., cards, dominoes, 30 seconds, etc.) to play and could socialize with other passengers.

S.A. Agulhas II icebreaking polar research vessel crossing through Antarctic sea ice (Photo taken by Yonela Mahamba).

It took us about six days to get to the Antarctic sea ice. The suspense was killing me because getting to sea ice was the big highlight of this trip for me. Yet, the reality of exploring such environments means our landings each day were weather dependent. It was my first experience being on sea ice. I was so excited that I did not want to miss the opportunity of going outside to see it – the whole point of my being there! I wore warm clothes and went outside with my cabin mates to see the ice. Most days were windy, with temperatures below freezing point. I could feel my hands developing frostbite and getting numb. I did not know one should not put very cold hands in hot water until I submerged my frostbitten hands in warm water. I instantly regretted doing that because of the severity of the sting and burn I felt.

Sandra Maluleke (Left) and Yonela Mahamba (Right) during Antarctic Sea ice observation (Photo taken by Kurt Martin).

It was a great pleasure to explore the Antarctic sea ice alongside a team of scientists with many international collaborators, who offered insights and engaging talks throughout the trip and shared information and data. I feel very privileged to have had an opportunity to experience the southernmost region of the Southern Ocean, dedicated to science and conservation. I am grateful to South African National Parks for allowing me to take part in this valuable expedition.

Viewing beautiful sunset over cold pancake ice floes in Antarctic waters (Photo taken by Sandra Maluleke).