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Filters & Hoods

Discuss and share your wildlife photography, filming and equipment
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lecter
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use sparingly....

Unread post by lecter » Sun Nov 06, 2005 4:15 am

with correct exposures, you can get pleasing results. Filtered effects cannot be remove easily in post processing. Polarisers are nice, though, in many cases, but I advise a shot with and without and decide later.. hehe

On teleconverters, our 1.4x see a lot of action. Degrade the image? Maybe a little, but we still get it. I think this is more important that then the pin sharpest image. Many images I see in magazines reflect this belief.

food for thought anyway..

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richardharris
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Unread post by richardharris » Sun Nov 06, 2005 10:37 am

I have stopped using UV filters as protective elements for my lenses; I just get the impression that even 'pro' versions interfer with the quality.

The only filter I occasionally use is a polariser - thats the only effect impossible to reproduce when processing RAW files. I don't have any but can see that a graduated filter could also be of use.

As for a 1.4 teleconvertor - I suspect its no worse than cropping a photo and losing quality that way

Richard

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arks
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Unread post by arks » Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:08 pm

I have always used what's called a "skylight" filter just as extra protection for my lenses. My understanding is that this differs from both UV and polariser lenses and adds nothing but that layer of protection.
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richardharris
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Unread post by richardharris » Sun Nov 06, 2005 11:04 pm

Thats not stictly true if using digital cameras. Skylight filters do have a colour correction for film; not the best for digital, though I suspect the auto-colour balance will compensate.

If you do want to use a filter purely for protection when using digital equipment go for a UV filter.

Richard

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Salva
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Re: Filters on DSLR

Unread post by Salva » Sun Nov 06, 2005 11:33 pm

DuQues wrote:Totally correct! Never put "bad" glass in front of your expensive glass! Or behind it either, like teleconverters which are especially degrading to the image quality.

Am I rich now?


On my last safari, my Nikon 1.4 II Teleconverter was in action the whole 7 days. With great results.
U lacht en U heeft gelijk dat U lacht maar het is niet om mee te lachen

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Wild@Heart
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Unread post by Wild@Heart » Mon Nov 07, 2005 6:47 am

Thanks all ...

My Christmas wishlist

1. Neutral Density Filters
2. Polariser Filters
3. UV Filters

.... not in specific order ... :lol:
NO TO HOTEL DEVELOPMENT IN KRUGER

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Wild@Heart
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Filters & Hoods

Unread post by Wild@Heart » Tue Jan 24, 2006 6:30 am

Hi all ....

I have a little question ... I recently acquired a nice Circ. Pol. I took some photo's with it the other day and boy it came out dark :redface:

I know your best results is achieved at a 90 degree angle too the sun ... but I still don't quite understand when to use it ...

So .. can anyone explain to me ...

1. When do you actually use the Circ. Pol?
2. How would I know my photo won't come out too dark? I know you can turn the Pol to allow more light? but I can't see the diffs...

Thanks for the assistance ...
NO TO HOTEL DEVELOPMENT IN KRUGER

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Shidzidzii
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Unread post by Shidzidzii » Tue Jan 24, 2006 8:00 am

I am not an expert but I also have one so here are my experiences .

1 Turn the filter (when you remember) for minimum darkness - this will still polarize the shine off whatever and you will only lose one f stop .

2 Mainly use it when there is very bright sun and shiny objects like water splashing etc. It is very effective when deep sea fishing ( TAG AND RELEASE PRACTITIONER ).

3 It does help to reduce haze effect (like sunglasses do) - probably beter than a daylight UV filter would .

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bucky
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Unread post by bucky » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:28 am

Your camera should still take the photo at the correct exposure , you will just have to be a little more careful of shake when using it .

It works best at an angle to the sun , but can work in any direction .

To work it -
1 - Focus on your subject
2 - turn polarizer until you get desired result , make sure you don't turn your focus , or else when you refocus , the polarizer will turn and you will not get the result you wanted (For lenses where the front ring turns at focus)
3 - The darker your image through the viewfinder , the more enhanced your polarizing effect will come out in your picture.
When it is turned so that things are brightest , it acts more like a neutral density , and you will have very little polarization effect.
Even though it looks dark in the viewfinder , it should come out properly exposed in your pic.
4 - The most important thing to note , is that the polarizer is great for using during the day , it is not really a tool to be used often in the early morning or late afternoon , as it hogs to much light , between 1 and 3 stops depending on the conditions.


TIPS -

1 - Use it for scenery pics , or pics of herds of animals where there are clouds and/or blue sky , use it to enhance the clouds , normally when you turn it till the sky looks darkest (This will also make the blue sky super blue) .The biggest thing to be careful of when doing this is that 1 side of your pictures sky is very dark , and the others is light.
2 - as for above , it can also be used to reduce the amount of contrast between the sky , and your ground subject making it easier not to wash out the sky in your pic , due to the skies brightness.
3 - use it when shooting at water . turn it until you remove the glare of the water surface , and it becomes see through .
This is fine for either wide angle or close ups in the water .
4 - always try take a few snaps at various levels of polarization , you can often get a great effect at half way between dark and not , especially when trying to get a bit of an animals reflection in the picture , or where there are slight ripples in the water.
5 - Use it to bring out nice green colours when taking snaps of something where there is lots of green grass
6 - It can help for general photos in bright conditions , or overcast but bright times , to reduce the haze.
7 - If it has been raining , and it clears up , you can get some splendid pics using it when the plants and grass are still wet.
8 - when taking snaps of birds on branches , where the sky is the background , it helps to use maximum polarization to darken the sky behind the bird and thereby getting a much better pic with a blue background ,rather than those whitewashed bird on branch snaps.

Ill try find some pics to illustrate a bit later.

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Mafuta B
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filters - High sunlight Which

Unread post by Mafuta B » Wed May 24, 2006 8:28 pm

Hi guys... Ive searched for something like this in the forum so I hope I am not creating a double topic.

I find that even with the canon 20D camera I tend to get overexposure. Specificaly taking pics in Kruger park in midday.

What I would like to know is what filters to use? Is a polarisation filter (spellcheck on that) enough or should you go for something a bit darker? I use a standard 28 - 55 digital lens , a 80 - 300 f 2.6 and a 100 - 500 sigma F4.5.

I find that things like sand comes out VERY bright and almost white while trees and grass and animals come out crisp and clear.

I have tried to play with color depths etc...

Any advice...

thanks

Baffs 8)
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richardharris
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Unread post by richardharris » Wed May 24, 2006 11:15 pm

Difficult topic. Midday sun, especially during the summer months, will be intense brightness coupled with very dark shadows. Very difficult for any camera / film to cope with. Also produces very strak shadows / lighting. Thats why usual advice is to go out early and late (apart from the fact that that is when the animals are about as well!)

You need to be really careful when taking photos of anything that is white or nearly so (or shiny). Birds with white feathers are notorious. Always underexpose (try 2/3 stop) and check picture and histogram to make sure white is exposed correctly (you may need to use your RAW convertor etc to brighten the photo using curves).

Filters don't really help - the autoexposure will simply compensate for it. The polarising filter can be useful to put some blue back into the sky or cut down on reflections off water. Coloured filters are also less useful with digital as the autowhite balance will compensate (unless the filter is extreme).

The real key is to make sure that the subject is exposed correctly, and to err on the side of underexposure; this is easier to correct later.

Richard

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Mafuta B
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Unread post by Mafuta B » Thu May 25, 2006 7:57 am

I guess I will have to play around with my settings and not use the "auto" mode little green button.

Luckily I am one of those fortunate ones that live right next to the Kruger NAtional Park so I will go and practice a bit. I think I might just bring my findings back to the forum... You'd be amazed at how little info there is on the web for beginner photographers on this little topic.

I guess writting it all down like

photo 1 - weather / light conditions - lens - aperture - color depth - bla bla bla

photo 2 - weather / light conditions - lens - aperture - color depth - bla bla bla
At the end of it all you don't want to go into the grave peacefully and quietly in well preserved body... You want to go sort off skidding in sideways, full of bruises and scratches saying: "Man what a ride!!!"

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Mars
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Unread post by Mars » Thu May 25, 2006 8:29 am

Baffers

Sorry for my spelling but English is not my home language, I have read your article, and want to point out some things for you ...

I don't use a cannon but I guess you can set your settings more or less the same as the other cameras. I assume you are new to photography so I will talk about a few things in general if you knew it already good :)

I would say you can buy a polariser filter, just make sure it fits your camera in short a cpl filter. It would make the sky and those kind of things more intense and bring out more colour, it will also help you with those very bright subjects and it will cancel out some of the shinyness which makes a better photo. You can also look at a nd filter. A neutral density filter is more or less the same price as the cpl and allows you to take pictures of brighter objects in sunny conditions, for example you will get a better picture and you can make your shutter speed lower while taking a waterfall... And another thing make sure you have a big enough memory card / enough film then take a few pictures of a subject from different angles and with different settings if possible.

Your camera might have a bracket mode which will take about 3 pictures with different exposures. You can afterwards delete the bad onces. Some professionals have said that the difference between a amateur photographer and a pro one is that the pro one through away more photos.

You can also look at your apeture size, your camera will have an apeture priority, where at 2.8 stops it will be the biggest opening and at 8.0 it will be the smallest or 10, 20 ... This is how much light you allow to enter your camera, more light may also cause over exposure so try and close it down a little.

You can also play by ajusting your shutter speed (on manual or shutter speed priority, and see what you get, it is hard for me to tell you use this settings for that day, you must experiment and see what works best when ... The best advise is practising !!! Your auto mode or simple mode will usually give you bad results in sharp light. You have many settings, play with them...

And try and keep your film speed (iso) below 200 if possible. By adding a tele-conveter lens you will also loose a few stops light, which will also make the exposure a bit less. and it is now harm to have a 600 mm lens for wildlife.

Please ask if there is more you want to know .

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bert
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Unread post by bert » Thu May 25, 2006 11:11 am

Mars, you gave a great lesson
But with digital in RAW almost everybody i know underexpose 1 to 2/3. I myself dont do that in bright weather, sand, etc.
Works out fine.

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Mars
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Unread post by Mars » Thu May 25, 2006 11:35 am

Bert, thank you for the reply

Yes you can change your exposure mode, or white balance etc, I see that I have not mentioned that almost for the main reason I didn't go into that much details and I don't change mine alot as well... Hope we helped the person with our articles ... But I think something like a nd filter will help alot, because it is for very bright light to reduce it ...


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