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Filters & Hoods

Discuss and share your wildlife photography, filming and equipment
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delboysafa
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Circ. Polarising Filter

Unread post by delboysafa » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:55 am

I am looking for a 77mm CPolarising Filter for my 100-400mm L. Anyone recommend the best one's, price etc

There seems to be a few 'digital' CPolarising Filters around, Do they really make that much difference over the 'film' one's.

Thanks

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madach
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Unread post by madach » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:21 am

I use a B&W polarising filter. There are many cheap and very expensive brands. B&W is in my opinion is good value for money.

I don't know what a digital polariser is but I'd buy a normal polariser if I were you. A polariser filters out polarised light and I don't see what 'digital' has to do with it. Polarised light is the same for digital and film.

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bert
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Unread post by bert » Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:20 pm

Use a Hoya filter
Good value for money

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Chris 18
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Unread post by Chris 18 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:05 pm

Using Cokin P system, which is quite adaptable. Am currently trying out Canon's drop in polarizer filter with my 300 which a friend has generously lent me along with his 500 f4, while he's on holiday. :lol:

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KampRunner
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Filters & Hoods

Unread post by KampRunner » Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:53 pm

I want to buy a filter/s for my Canon 70-300mm lens as well as a lens hood. Any suggestions on which filters to get...can I get by with only 1 basic filter?. Can I use the same lens hood + filter on my 18-55mm lens?
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Mars
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Filter

Unread post by Mars » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:10 am

Depending on what you will take photo's of, a filter that is always useable with most photo's is a cpl (Circular Polorizer filter) which gives a much deeper looking sky, takes glare away, brings out colours etc ...

And maybe a Nd (neutral density) filter, so that you can get slower shutter speeds in bright light for excellent pictures of waterfalls etc ...

The use of the same filter depends on the lens size, if both lense threats are 55 mm you will be able to use it on both, otherwise you will need a step up/down ring to make it fit.

There are lots of filters available doing lots of things, but I would say the first one to get is a CPL filter, You can also make other filters, a film negative can make an infra-red filter, a uv filter with vaseline on can make a soft focus filter etc ...

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bucky
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Unread post by bucky » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:39 am

I bought quite a few filters although I use some of them rarely .

The 1 that I found most usefull , and it really can make for stunning shots is the polarising filter .
I would buy the type that screws onto the front of your lens.

You also get cokin filters which you can normally buy in a kit with graduated filters , that you can use to make for some interesting skylines etc .
They are square pieces of glass , that go in a holder in front of your lens , you can get different mountings to allow the same filters to be used on different lenses.
You can also get a cokin polarizer , but I found it awkward to use .

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DuQues
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Re: Filters & Hoods

Unread post by DuQues » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:55 am

Glenda wrote:Can I use the same lens hood + filter on my 18-55mm lens?

Lenshoods are designed for the lens, or rather for the view they give. Your 18-55 hood will look like only a strip of plastic as it can "see" a very wide angle, and would otherwise see the hood as well. Conversely, the one on your 70-300 will look more like a tube, as the 70mm is not very wide.
So, no, you can't use it on both lenses.

Filters... Why do you want them? What do you want to do?
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iaindr
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Unread post by iaindr » Sat Sep 02, 2006 11:23 pm

First Filter should be a UV filter to protect the lens - one for each lens and kept on. Filters are a lot cheaper than replacement for a scratched front element. :shock:

The next Filter should be a CP - which you can switch between the lenses

Then get the Cokin P Series and ND 0.3 0.6 and 0.9

Always remember spend money on quality and not quantity :D
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madach
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Unread post by madach » Sun Sep 03, 2006 1:09 pm

iaindr wrote:First Filter should be a UV filter to protect the lens - one for each lens and kept on. Filters are a lot cheaper than replacement for a scratched front element. :shock:

When you use a lens hood then you don't need a filter to protect the front lens element because the lens hood will protect the front of the lens. I never use filters for protecting my lenses but I alwas use lens hoods and I've never had a scratch on my lenses.

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Peter Betts
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Unread post by Peter Betts » Sun Sep 03, 2006 1:40 pm

Have you guys checked out Singh-Ray filters the ND filters are TOPS and come in different f stp strengths. and they have the brilliant reverse nd filters with the main strength at the horizon to hold back the bright sun at sunrise and sunset and this brings out the details of the foreground. They fit in the normal Cokin P filter. Their screw in polorizers are the best you can get but unfortunately they are basically made on order and therefore very expensive up to us$ 400!!!! contact Bob Singh at www.singh-ray.com H'ell make you any filter you want a most helpful and knowledgable chap
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Is this an effect of IS?

Unread post by UKbadger » Sat Oct 13, 2007 12:50 am

Is this an effect of IS?

I chainged to digital only a year ago and am slightly puzzled by this strainge effect appearing in my pics. from time to time.

Canon 30D + 100-400 zoom

These Sable were at Jones’s Dam in Aug, and the bush behind them seems to have a double image.

Anyone got an idea as to the cause?

Taken at 1/800th @ 5.6 ISO 200 390mm with beanbag support.

Could it be the IS, or perhaps the AF??

Image

Image

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Peter Betts
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Unread post by Peter Betts » Sat Oct 13, 2007 8:41 am

Hi

First things first. I think you have a filter on?? UV and Skylight filters dont work on Digital Lenses. If so take it off and never use it again...your images WILL improve dramatically. You have a lens hood to protect your front element. You just have to be more careful.
Do you in fact use the lens hood? Very important to reduce that ghosting flare which is really bad on the Banded Harrier pic.
Also Optics. I see you have the Canon 100-400 f5.6 L lens which is probably the mosty widely used Wild Life Lens certainly in Kruger for example ,mainly for its large 4x range and price and portability. However it has been found on a regular basis that any zoom with a huge zoom range suffers image quality especially at the high mag level of that lens. Normally 3x is max...ie a lens like a 70-200 is 3x and you shouldnt really go over that if you really want tack sharp clear images. Your lens is not one of Canon's best despite being a white L lens. It is acceptable to 300 generally (ie up to the 3x range) but the web is full of sad tales of image quality being bad over 300 especially over 300 on this lens. A friend of mine wanted to upgrade his Canon 70-300 (3x) zoom to a white lens. After his 4th replacement in a month he really had to dig deep and he bought a 70-200f2.8, plus 1.4 x convertor (Dont get the 2x ...its not sharp) he also got the 300 f2.8 and the 500 f4. Now that is an aweful amount of money just to solve the IQ problem of the notorious 100-400. My advice to you is stick to canon as a brand but sell the lens and "invest" in a 70-200 f2.8 or 4 and get a 1.4x convertor and then get a 400 f5.6 L Canon Prime which is ten times sharper than the more versatile lens you have now. Also the flare can be drastically reduced by using quality lenses which employ Nano Coat which reduce flare to zero but unfortunately you will have to change to Nikon to get that benefit ...something I did 35 yrs ago. Look at my trip report I am busy with now and see the flare free images taken with such lenses.
Sorry to sound alarmist but you may have a dud 100-400 like my friend got 4 times in a row. I have other friends who love it. If I was a Canon user I wouldnt touch it though and would either go the route of my friend (the expensive choice) or the cheaper and very good other choice I gave you.

By the way your sable are waterbuck.
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UKbadger
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Unread post by UKbadger » Sun Oct 14, 2007 12:48 am

Thanks for the advice Peter, I am certainly going to try removing the filter as flare has been a major problem for me. The thing that puzzles me is the presence of what appears to be a double image not just softness of focus.

The biggest puzzle is that some pics are affected and others are not and I can’t seem to isolate the conditions that cause it.

Your friend is either a very rich or a very desperate man, the cost of his solution takes my breath away. :big_eyes: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

No you were not “seeing things”, I posted the wrong pic, at first and you must have seen the wrong one in the short time before I replaced it!!

Forester, please note, Peter Betts probably can tell a Waterbuck from a Sable!!!!!! :wink: :wink:

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UKbadger
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Unread post by UKbadger » Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:11 am

Peter Betts

I took of the Hoya Pro 1 digital filter from my 100-400 and tried it out shooting near the sun, [not at the sun].

#][o\k’esdlkvh.kj32-0/l;zjdfpojzdf.,nfd;oinzdf;l0kn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! . :evil: :evil:


Sory about that.

Nearly all the flare had gone!!! :shock:

I’m a beginner at Digital so I will make mistakes, and by things that I don’t need, but a whole years photography with optical sabotage screwed to my lens. :cry: :cry:


Thank you so much, should have got to know you sooner!!


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