Caracal's The ABC of the KNP. November 2015.

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Caracal's The ABC of the KNP. November 2015.

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A is for Adventure, Aeroplanes, Airports, Arrivals and Amarula.

After a successful trip to Kruger last year November we decided to repeat the ADVENTURE again this year.
It was a long wait but finally the day arrived and Thursday the 5th Nov found us boarding an AEROPLANE to Lanseria International AIRPORT.

Great excitement as we walked through ARRIVALS.

We picked up our hired car and headed off to Pretoria where we would spend the night before travelling to Phalaborwa early the next morning.
In Phalaborwa we did a quick grocery shop followed by an essential liquids stop - yip you guessed correctly…AMARULA was on top of the list.

We ARRIVED at the gate at about 13h30. Our ADVENTURE was about to begin.
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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B is for Birding Buddies, Birds Captured 2015, Big Bad Words, Batteries, Bathrooms, Blurds and Bugger Ups.

So who is the “we” I keep referring to ? My BIRDING BUDDIES of course, namely Rookie and Rob.
We do a fair amount of birding together here in Cape Town and last year I had the good fortune of being invited along on their Kruger Trip.
Clearly I was a good girl :angel: and behaved myself extremely well so much so that I was invited along this year as well.

By now you may also be wondering what Birds Captured 2015 is all about…. well it is a Facebook Group that I started in 2013.
The idea being to see how many different bird species one can capture with your camera during the year.
The birds have to be free flying but can be captured from all the world.
It really is not a competition against each other but more of a competition against yourself.
We have members from various other countries so it is also lends itself to a bit of arm-chair birding.
Members start a photo album on the group and upload one photo per bird species to that album. We also run photo challenges every ten days - at the end of the ten days members vote and the winner of the challenge choses the next challenge. So in other words we were chasing BIRDS on this trip…..big time.
I needed 100 BIRDS to beat my last year’s number of 442.
It is one thing seeing and hearing the bird…it is another thing trying to capture it on camera….hence the BIG BAD words that would escape every now and then.

BUGGER UPS ???? Oh there were plenty of those….apart from the BLURDS

that contribute to the BIG BAD Words….there were a few others like arriving at Phalaborwa Gate, hearing a Diderik’s Cuckoo , grabbing camera, taking aim and nothing happened.
One very flat BATTERY in one’s camera.
Oh yes I did have a spare because in actual fact I am quite an organised person but said spare was in the deepest darkest depths of my tog bag which was in the deepest darkest depths of the boot.
So an unpack of boot and unpack of tog bag ensued until finally I had a charged battery in my grubby little paws….of course the Diderik Cuckoo had long since flown. By now a visit to the BATHROOM was needed as the BATHROOMS in Eden Square, Phalaborwa had not been of the best - but when I got back to the car I realised that I had left my cell phone in the bathroom - more BIG BAD words.
In the meantime my BIRDING BUDDIES were having a wonderful time capturing birds left ,right and centre.
Finally I got myself sorted and the BIRDING BEGAN

Grey-headed Bushshrike ( very happy with this one :dance: )

Kurrichane Thrush

Red-headed Weaver

By the time we left the Gate and entered the park I had 3 Birds captured - only 97 to go …. :wink:
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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C is for Camps , Cell Phone Photos, Chef of Note and Crocodiles.

Rookie is our tour operator and boy does she do a good job. :gflower:
This time round we stayed at Letaba, Shingwedzi, Mopani, Tamboti and Skukuza. Good choice of CAMPS, Rookie.
I enjoyed all of these camps ..each one offering something different. Letaba, Mopani and Tamboti were good for birding…Skukuza is close to Lake Panic and Shingwedzi enabled us to explore virgin territory in the north.
But more about the camps in later posts.

Finally I have learnt the art of taking CELL PHONE PHOTOS.
It is not as easy as it sounds.
Keeping track of my phone (leaving my phone in the bathroom was not the only time I lost track of it ) and keeping it charged is really too much for me to cope with.
But with the help of Rob who kept charging it for me and Rookie who kept reminding me to take the photos I managed to take a fair amount of photos with it.
I still don’t think they are amazing quality that many people think they are but they do help to tell a story …. and to snap a quick photo of our Chef of Note. :o

Rob is quite a handy fellow to have around - he makes a good cup of tea and takes his braaiing duties very seriously….that is when he remembers to buy firelighters….. :doh: what is so special about CROCODILES that they deserve a mention in this birding trip report.
Well it was a CROCODILE …..a monster size CROCODILE that provided us with the highlight of our trip
The story goes like this….
We stopped along the Letaba river to photograph this elephant. He made for a pretty picture…very leisurely drinking water and a safe enough distance away from us that we could enjoy watching him.

We were about to move on when Rookie noticed a CROCODILE moving around in the water right next to bank of the river.
It took us a while to realise that it had a kill ….the CROCODILE was rolling around in the water but not once did it reveal what it had captured. It started venturing towards the centre of the river and almost immediately another 4 or so CROCODILES appeared. They were helping themselves to bits and pieces of the kill.

There seemed to be a fair amount of action but mostly under the water and we were not able to really see what was happening. The next minute the CROCODILE moved further towards the opposite side of the river bank and finally showed us what he had clenched firmly in his jaw….

All three cameras fired away simultaneously and at the same time all three of us yelled “It’s another crocodile. “
Many of the crocodiles scuttled away with that show of strength and we realised what a huge crocodile it was.
We were really excited as we had never seen this kind of action between crocodiles before …but then the moment arrives when you look at your camera to see whether you had captured the action or not… deep breathe…did you get it Rookie ??
Oh yes !!! Did you Rob….oh yes !!!
And yes I managed to capture it as well.
We sighed a sigh of relief…:) We gathered our wits about us , calmed down a bit and moved on…only to discover that I had sat on my sunglasses …and they were sunglasses no more.
A small price to pay…..
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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D is for Dry, Dust Devils and Disappointed

I think everybody knows by now that Kruger is desperate for rain..I don’t think I realised how desperate though.
I don’t really know Kruger that well, this trip being my third trip only but I do have very many visions of awesome rivers that abound with animal and bird life.
I have always enjoyed crossing those rivers …always plenty to see. Imagine my disappointment on our first evening when we walked down to the river front in Letaba and we were greeted with this…

There was not much to see at all….

This was the first of very many disappointing dry river beds.
But I think maybe a bigger disappointment was our trip up North to Pafuri and Crook’s Corner.
None of us had been much further north than Shingwedzi so Rookie had planned our itinerary around a trip up to Pafuri.
We had high hopes of seeing many birds up north but we were a bit disappointed.
It was a lovely drive there and we managed to get a Meve’s Starling along the way.
Pafuri had not much to offer besides a very noisy Red-chested Cuckoo, a Cardinal Woodpecker and a few Dark-eyed Bulbuls. An elephant or two and later on a buffalo found a puddle in the river to splash about in.
A few kudu also paid a puddle a visit.

We moved onto Crook’s Corner .
It was very quiet there as well.
But we did spot a White-headed Vulture as well as a Grey-Rumped Swallow.

On the way back we had a wonderful sighting of this Temminck’s Courser.
It had set up home right on the verge of the road.

Right..own up..who didn’t notice the eggs ?????

So we had finally made it up to the North - yes we were disappointed but at least we had explored new places and anyway a disappointing dry day in the bush is still way better than a day in the city. :)

To be continued
Last edited by Caracal on Fri Nov 27, 2015 2:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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D is for Dry, Dust Devils and Disappointed ( cont )

Another disappointment to us was our visit to Red Rocks.
On our previous trip Red Rocks really delivered.
The amount of little birds that we saw there was absolutely amazing.
Cut-throat Finch, Cardinal Woodpecker, Sunbirds, Long-tailed Paradise - Whydah, Yellow-fronted Canary, Emerald Spotted Wood-Dove and Bee-eaters to name but a few.
The surrounding veld had produced many birds as well…Tchagras, Green-winged Pytillia’s , Firefinches and Brubrus.
I had really been looking forward to going to Red Rocks.
I am sure my incessant jabbering about Red Rocks must have driven Rookie and Rob around the bend.
Well talk about a disappointment..not a Firefinch or Cut-throat Finch in sight…not even a Whydah of any kind or a Canary.
The drive to Red Rocks was just as disappointing.
The sum total of the birds that we saw were a Green-backed Heron, Barn Swallows and White-fronted Bee-eaters.
On the plus side there were many, many White-fronted I have many, many, many, photos of White-fronted Bee-eaters. :cam:
Another tick for Birds Captured 2015

Another real disappointment was our visit to Lake Panic… another one of my favourite places and once my jabbering about Red Rocks ceased my jabbering about Lake Panic took over.
We visited in the afternoon as the light is apparently better for photography then..well we arrived there in the worst light ever as the skies were thick with rain clouds and it even started to drizzle.
But those raindrops were sorely needed so even though we were disappointed in the sightings we were elated at the prospect of rain. :dance:
I did however manage a photo of a Squacco Heron ( only our second sighting of one) and a Malachite Kingfisher

Dust..well of course if the veld is dry, understandably it is going to be dusty as well.
Well there was no shortage in the dust department. Rob was constantly dusting the interior of the car down but it made no real difference.
What always amazes me though are what I call "Dust Devils”…..whirlwinds of dust that seem to appear from nowhere, spot where you are parked, change direction and head straight for you, give you a few seconds (if you are lucky) to close your windows and leave you wondering what the hell had happened…
We witnessed a few of those but there was one in particular that was really huge but for a changed missed us but totally obliterated our view of the waterhole.
Here we were just sitting and watching a Bateleur drinking. Zebra were approaching the waterhole and we were hoping that the Bateleur would take off and we would get award winning photos of a Bateleur in flight. ^Q^

And they certainly aren’t award winning….and the Bateleur never did take off …. But the Dust Devil continued on its merry little way..probably looking for some other poor tourists to terrorise.

But yes these dry dusty disappointments were just minor events and it really just goes to show how unpredictable nature really is and I guess if one wants to see the same things in the same place, time and time again, one should visit a Zoo…and I ain’t doing that.
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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E is for Energetic Early birds, Egos and Elephants….

Before you all think that I am the Energetic Early bird that I am referring to let me tell you that I am NOT…I don’t do mornings very well at all (and neither does Rob) and I need all the encouragement in the world to get my head off that pillow.
Rookie on the other hand can get up at some horrible hour in the morning and be Extremely Energetic and it is an absolute given that Rookie, no matter what, will head out into the bush at that horrible hour.
So every morning a decision had to be made I bird within the camp or do I go out with Rookie ???

Some how or other I do manage to make the right decision though and I am always happy with my sightings...
The morning that I did managed to get up early and head out with Rookie from Mopani was one of my better decisions.
It wasn’t long before the excitement started and soon I was yelling…."Stop stop stop... bokkies on the right !!!”
Hmm those bokkies were in actual fact Roan but they were already disappearing into the bush and we had a brief sighting of their rear ends.
Rookie, knowing the roads like she does, took a turn off in the hopes of intercepting with the Roan again.
The next minute I was chirping from the back seat.
I asked Rookie how important it was that we find the Roan.
A slamming of brakes followed …
"Why ????" asked Rookie, “What have you seen?”
“' Well if you reverse a bit I can show you two beautiful male lions,"was my calm reply.
And they were indeed beautiful…lying amongst the bushes soaking up the morning sun.

We spent a little while with them but they weren’t looking very energetic at all.
So we continued in our pursuit of the Roan.
A few kilometres down the road we came across a puddle in a riverbed…and what a productive puddle it was…Woolly-necked Stork, Saddle-billed Stork, Great Egret and what I think may be a Marsh Sandpiper. Four birds for Birds Captured in one fell swoop !!!
I have very poor record shots of these birds ..but that is all I need to prove that I have seen them….but they are not good enough for a trip report.

Were we ever going to meet up with those Roan?
We continued on our way and before long we actually did find them again.
This time they allowed us more than a view of their rear ends. As a matter of fact the youngster was quite a show off...

Next up was Pioneer this is when I realised that the Energetic Early bird catches the worm….or in this case the fish. Unfortunately both the Darter and the Pied Kingfisher were a fair distance away for any decent shots but it was enjoyable watching them catching their breakfast.

And let’s not forget about the birds with Egos….I mean just look at these Green-backed Herons….just full of their own importance.

And as for this Jacana ….admiring his reflection much better.

But actually when looking at my photos later on in the day I think my Ego topped that of the birds. :-)
I finally have some decent Green-backed Heron photos…being an Energetic Early Bird had paid off.

to be continued….
Last edited by Caracal on Wed Dec 02, 2015 8:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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So I went away for the weekend....
Then I went and had a fall at WCNP..broke some bones in my right hand :shock:
Then I went to KTP with my hand in a splint...took forever to heal ( still not properly healed)
Then I went away for another weekend..then another ...
Then I went to New Zealand for 6 weeks...
But now I am home ...and it is time to get on with this TT before I go away again. :)
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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E is for Elephants

Ah ELEPHANTS !!.What can I say about elephants?
Except that I am Especially, Excessively and Entirely petrified of them. :shock:
I will never end up with a decent Exposure of an Elephant as I cannot relax or think straight when photographing them.
Luckily for me my travelling partners Rob and Rookie have the utmost respect for Elephants as well.
It was one of the Essential facts that I Educated them about when I accepted to Explore Kruger with them…I just don’t do Elephants.
There was no shortage of elephants on this trip ...they were popping up all over the place especially along the river courses.
It was very dry in Kruger at the time and Elephants need water.
They congregated in their masses and blocked the roads.
At one stage we just couldn’t get through and had to back track…by then I was a blithering idiot in the back seat.
I refused to drive any road that went along a river.

Another heart stopping moment I had was while travelling down from the north – I was driving and we had stopped to photographed this Temminck’s Courser. ( mentioned earlier in TT )

This was an Exciting find but we still had a long way to go so we had to get a move on. I looked up ahead …slap bang into this fellow. :shock:

I went straight into blithering idiot mode - I was driving ..I couldn’t make this Rob’s problem…it was my problem. :shock:
And my reversing skills stink to say the least.
At the same time we were all wondering what would happen to the poor little Courser that had set up home right in the Elephants pathway.
But luck was on our side ..the Elephant of it'd own accord Exited the road into the bushes and calm was once again restored. :D
So most of my elephant photos are taken on the run….sneaking in a shot while Rob or Rookie manoeuvre their way past.
So they pretty much end up being rubbish shots.
I was definitely quaking in my boots while taking this one…

I don’t care how preoccupied they are while stuffing their faces…the car is not allowed to stop while driving past.

I have many shots taken while driving past ambling elephants..bravely taken for the back seat.

But not all elephant sightings are terrifying ..sometimes one can sit at a waterhole watching their antics while slurping , splashing and mud bathing.

They were very relaxed but once again we had to make a quick getaway…
One of the Elephants in the group was getting quite amourous but the intended target changed her mind and charged out of the water straight for us…
I was driving but had positioned the car for a quick getaway….Elephants don’t fool me.

But yes they are Enormous but Exquisite creatures and I can watch them for hours…from afar.
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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F is for Fairies, Fangs, Fluttery Flyers, Foam Frogs and Flurries of Nothing

Fairies ??? Fairies in Kruger ??? As a matter of Fact there are Fairies in all Sanparks establishments.
They are quiet creatures that arrive mostly when you are not around and magically make your bed for you. :-)
What a pleasure to come back to your accommodation to find your bed beautifully made…really beautifully made - I have yet to be able to make a bed as well as these Fairies do.
So from me, thank you Fairies..I really do appreciate the Fact that you make my bed everyday for me. :gflower:
All part of the process that makes one stay in the parks such a pleasant one.

F is for Fangs.

Ah the Fangs of Lions…aren’t they just magnificent.

These large fangs (canines) are not used in feeding much but are used more while hunting.
They are used to grip and choke the prey.
These fangs are the four largest teeth and can reach up to 7cms in length.

F is for Fluttery Flyers.

Fluttery Flyers tend to get on my nerves a bit but I cannot resist photographing them .
There were actually very Few Fluttery Flyers on this trip …probably due to the dry conditons. I can handle moths when they are sitting quietly on the wall and not trying to dunk their heads into my glass of sherry.
The following moths kept us company at Mopani – the smaller darker one being the Cream Striped Owl Moth and the larger one being the Mopani Moth.

I am not too averse to pretty butterflies either.
I saw this one in Letaba Camp and it was a first for me.
But I have no idea what it actually is called.
So until somebody can enlighten me I will just call it a Pretty Butterfly.

Tamboti was an Entomologist’s delight.
The bathrooms were swarming with moths and bugs of all description. I could have spent the entire day and evening photographing all the Fluttery Flyers but there were many other things and places that needed exploring. I couldn’t ignore this Praying Mantis though.

And there were many of these moths bombarding us in the evening as well..again I do not have a name for it.

It was not only me that was enjoying the Fluttery Flyers in Tamboti…the Hornbills were as well. I do prefer capturing them on camera as opposed to eating them though.

F is for Frog.

I certainly didn’t expect to see a frog in our kitchen in Mopani.
These little frogs sit quite motionlessly, appeared out of nowhere and seemed to disappear into thin air .
These little frogs ( known as tree frogs or foam nest frogs) are arboreal and will rarely be found swimming or sitting in water like many other frogs and toads but are commonly found in and around buildings where lights attract a source of insect food. So it was not out of place in our outdoor kitchen in Mopani.
I really didn’t mind it being there but I seriously gave my bedroom a thorough check before going to bed…I’m not really into sharing my bed with frogs.

F is for a Flurry of Nothing

Being the birders we are we tend to stop for every little fluttering feather we see.
It goes something like this..
Stop ! What ? Bird under the bush !
Which bush ? That bush…doh.. which bush do you think…THAT bush.
Oh it’s gone !
Wait there is another bird …go forward !
Oh’s gone.
But look there is another on the other side..reverse !
Too much ….go forward.
Cameras are firing away…everybody is yelling at the same time ..birds are flitting everywhere…until they all flit away.
Then there is a moment of silence while we all look at our cameras.
So did you get anything Rookie ? Nope !
Did you get anything Rob ? Nope !
Did you get anything Michele. Nope !
So you mean in all of that nobody got one shot of one Fluttering Feather ? :twisted:
Nope….and so we ticked another “Flurry of Nothing. “
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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Thank you to all that have been reading and commenting.

and here is a bit more
G is for Gymnogene, Giraffe and Gregarious Groups

Gymnogene? I can just hear and see some Grumpy pouty faces out there saying “you mean African Harrier Hawk !!! “
No I don’t mean African Harrier Hawk. I mean Gymnogene !!! :roll:
The bird in question is a really Grandiose bird that suits the really Grandiose name of Gymnogene…it is as simple as that. :-)
And we had the Greatest and Grandest sighting of this Gorgeous, Good-looking and Graceful bird.
We were driving slowly along scouring the bushes for birds when we noticed some movement in a tree.
We stopped , looked and simultaneously we Gabbled “ Gymnogene” !!!! I mean.. it really is so impossible to Gabble the name African Harrier Hawk :shock: ….the word Gymnogene is way more Gabbible :)
The Bird put on the most interesting display of methodically investigating every little Gap in the bark of the tree and Grabbing every little morsel that it could find until it Gracefully left the tree and flew straight over our heads.

I was a bit Grouchy about my Grotty photo though….. it was a bit awkward trying to get the shot out of the back car window that only opens halfway :(

That brings me to the Gorgeous Giraffes.
I think in my next life I would love to be a Gorgeous Giraffe.
Those lovely long legs are to die for…never mind the beautiful long eyelashes. :)
We saw a fair amount of Giraffe …many were tick-infested though and it seems the Oxpeckers couldn’t keep up with Grooming them.

I’m not really sure which is my favourite of the Gregarious Groups….is it the Zebra? I find them quite challenging to photograph especially when they won’t look at the camera….

Or is it Vervets and Baboons. Both fascinating Groups..
I can watch them for hours while they go about their daily business of caring, grooming and loving each other.
Yes I know they are little thieves as well but that is through no fault of their own. They have humans to thank for that…..

And then we have Elephants…extremely Gregarious Groups.
They Grumble, and Groan in elephant language..and even Grieve when a family member passes away.
They may scare me but it really is gratifying to sit and watch a family of elephants interacting with each other.
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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H is for Hornbills, Hamerkops, Happy Hyenas, Hippo’s and Horrible Photos.

Hornbills..have to be the most Humourous birds out.
They can keep me entertained for hours especially the ones that tend to hang around the camps.
They do tend to get a bit over friendly though and some of them will even join you at the table while eating.
We do tend to chase them ....well sometimes we do. :)
Happily on this trip we were lucky enough to see 5 different species of Hornbills.

Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill

Red-billed Hornbill
African Grey Hornbill

I was especially happy to find a Crowned Hornbill - not only did we find one but we found one that was a right show-off and was happy to pose for photos.
This sighting took place on our very last drive out of the park…..but a lifer for me.
Crowned Hornbill

I was also very happy with all our Southern Ground Hornbill sightings….we saw quite a few juveniles which was a first for me as well.
Southern Ground Hornbill catching lunch.

Unfortunately the Trumpeter Hornbill eluded us on this trip.

Another bird I was chasing was the Hamerkop.
We saw a few but mostly far away, or it took flight before I could photograph it.
Finally I managed to get a photo of one on a night drive from Skukuza - but it definitely falls into the category of Horrible Photos. But all’s I need for Birds Captured is a photo to prove that I have seen it…this one was good enough for that.


From Horrible photos of Hamerkops to Horrible photos of Happy Hyenas.
We didn’t see many Hyenas on our trip…as a matter of fact only two.
The first one we saw running along the road one morning….clearly feeling happy with himself judging by the grin on his face. Took one look at us and disappeared into the bush.

Our second sighting of a hyena was on the night drive …..
I cannot remember which waterhole we were at but this one was having a lovely cooling down session after the heat of the day….definitely a Happy Hyena

As for Hippos…well Hippos don’t really excite me.
Mostly they are just humongous blobs of lard that spend their entire day just blobbing together in the water and at the most all you can get is a photograph of humongous blob of lard…oh sometimes you manage to photograph an eye or two.

I know it is not all about the photographs ..
I can quite happily just sit and watch many kinds of animals without photographing them but hippos really have perfected the art of blobbing and after a photo or two the novelty of watching blobbing hippos wears off a bit.
I never have quite managed to capture that classic hippo yawning shot that many folk have…one day is one day ….but in the meantime I have to be happy with my Horrible Photos of a Hippo’s eye.
Having said all of that I did feel very sorry for those poor hippos last November. Kruger was dry…sadly lacking water and to see 2-3 hippos scrunched up in a man made waterhole was pitiful.
Not sure why I didn’t photograph that ?????
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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Thx everybody for your kind comments ....:)
and a little bit more...

I is for Iridescence, Interesting Insect and Insignificant Impala.

Isn’t it amazing how a bit of sunlight can change an otherwise drab looking bird into an Iridescent Wonder…..

Violet-backed Starling

Green Wood-hoopoe

Diderik’s Cuckoo

Greater Blue-eared Starling

Marico Sunbird

As I have mentioned earlier there were not many insects around ..apart from Tamboti Camp.
But I photographed these insects elsewhere and I am not sure what they really are ..anyway they look interesting…can anybody give them a name for me ?

Impalas are not really insignificant at all.
As a matter of fact they are quite graceful, beautiful and photogenic animals so I am not quite sure why I only have one photo of these animals :hmz: …..clearly something else was more significant at the time (probably those Oxpeckers on the Impala’s back :lol: )
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Re: The ABC of the KNP.

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J is for Jagermeister.

Well not just Jaegermeister..a bit of Amarula thrown in as well.
This is a Nel Tradition that travels around with us wherever we go.
Whenever Doug and I light a fire ( which is every night while in the Bush) we toast to the day's events with a Jaeger. :D
Even though Doug was not in Kruger with us we still had to uphold the tradition…and because we were flying home we had to make sure the bottle was finished at the end of our trip.
We didn’t light a fire every night but we certainly had a toast to the day’s events every evening.
But try as we might Rob and I could not get Rookie to join in with a Jaeger…but she happily joined in with a Amarula.
So as we were driving around spotting birds etc we would comment as to whether it was the “Jaeger Jaeger" sighting or not.
After a while we thought it was a bit unfair to just say "Jaeger Jaeger"…that was totally excluding Rookie and her Amarula….so we changed it to “AmaJaegerJaeger" !!!!!
We had many wonderful sightings to cheers to each evening but apart from that the AmaJaeger toast is just a lovely opportunity to sit back and savour the day’s happenings and to realise how privileged we are to experience those wonderful sightings.
Needless to say Rob and I did ourselves proud ..there was not one drop left by the end of our stay.