Neville Bailey's Durbanites' Odyssey to the KTP! December 2016

[Neville Bailey]

My SO (Margaret) and I were watching a documentary about two months ago, about the KTP, and we were absolutely enthralled and decided, there and then, that we simply HAD to go there, and soon!

We both love the bush and, being situated in Durban, we often visit the Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve (every month or two) and KNP at least once a year. But we were captivated by what we saw on that documentary - it seemed so very different and so wild compared to the other places.

With great excitement we logged onto the Sanparks site to secure our campsite bookings at the various rest camps in the park, but we were dismayed to discover that nothing was available for months in advance, and we wanted to go NOW!

After some research, we made some enquiries at a place just outside the park, and secured a campsite booking for the week between Christmas and New Year, with the plan to do day trips from there. Although not ideal by any means, we could still satisfy our craving for instant gratification and take the opportunity to investigate some of the accommodation sites first hand, with a view to booking at them for a subsequent visit a year or so later.

So, in the early hours of Christmas Day (2am), we will be starting our first odyssey to KTP. Margaret's son will be joining us, so there will be three of us to share the long 14 hour drive.

My intention is to write this TR "live", with accompanying photos, every evening of our time there, before going to bed. Unfortunately, one of my vices is that I have to do things in the moment, not weeks or months later, after the thrill of the experience has waned.

So, to all you forumites who wish to join us on our odyssey, please set your alarms early on Christmas Day! We look forward to sharing our experience with you all.

[hilda]

Hi Neville Bailey,

As long as you don't reveal names of accommodation outside a SANParks, I don't think you will step on any toes. I see nothing wrong with landscape photos or stars at night, or even your campsite, as long as you don't mention where you were camping if outside a SANPark.

Here is a link to the rules: (Rule 1 applies to the above):

RULES for posting on the SANParks Forums.

Have a safe journey, and enjoy every minute in KTP!

[Neville Bailey]

The alarm went off at 1am this morning - what, already?

Tried to switch on the lights - no power. Looked out the windows and it seemed like the entire neighbourhood was out of power. Great, now we can't have coffee and we have to lug our stuff down 12 flights of stairs! Just as well we took most of our stuff down to the garage yesterday so it wasn't too bad.

Anyway, after loading the car and hitching the trailer in a light drizzle, we were on our way at 2am - dead on schedule!

IMGP2436 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Our first pitstop was along the N3 near Ladysmith - boy, was it cold outside!

IMGP2439 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Margaret's driving stint ended at Bethlehem, at about 6.30am, where we topped up with fuel and had some fruit salad for breakfast. This part of the world is so pretty.

IMGP2440 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2443 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

[Neville Bailey]

And so our long trip continued...

We hit the N1 south towards Bloemfontein - long and boring vistas.

IMGP2446 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

When we got to Bloemfontein, we broke the monotony of the trip by a quick pitstop and leg stretch.

IMGP2447 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

But then, as we headed towards Kimberley, the landscape changed dramatically.

IMGP2451 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

To add to the drama of the changing landscapes, we drove through some amazing sandstorms.

IMGP2453 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2460 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2462 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2464 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

...and fascinating vegetation.

IMGP2466 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2472 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

...and interesting remnants of bygone days.

IMGP2471 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

At last we reached Kimberley for yet another pitstop and, for the first time, we experienced the dry heat of the Northern Cape.

IMGP2475 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then, somewhere between Kimberley and Upington, at a little hamlet by the name of Campbell, we noticed this quaint filling station, but there was nobody in attendance.

IMGP2476 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Eventually, after a long haul after Upington, we arrived at the last outpost of civilization, Askham, and stopped there for the last fill up of the day.

IMGP2478 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then, as we approached our campsite just before the Park, I remarked how smooth the trip had gone. Well, I reckon I jinxed the day by that remark, because we no sooner drove into our campsite establishment, when we got stuck in some thick sand! Fortunately there was no shortage of willing hands to get us out of our embarrassing situation!

IMGP2479 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2482 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

But the aforementioned mishap did not end there for us, I'm afraid. While we in the process of pitching camp, a sudden storm with almighty winds descended on us.

IMGP2514 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The strong winds bent two of our tent poles before we had a chance to secure them with guide ropes, and then our tent almost blew away while we were trying to hammer in tent pegs into impregnable Kalahari ground! We had no change to salvage the situation, as the strong winds continued with the menacing storm circling our area, so we decided to call it a day and hit the sack - Tyron decided to sleep in the car and Margaret and I set up our bedding in the rather spacious private ablutions.

Tomorrow we will find a solution to the sad ending of today - all we want now is sleep...

[Neville Bailey]

Day 2 of our Odyssey.

We all woke up with rather stiff backs, but very well rested after yesterday's testing end.

After explaining our situation to the campsite management, they immediately loaned us a replacement tent without any hesitation and we set it up gratefully. So all's well that ends well! Thank you to everyone for your support!

After spending some time getting some order to our campsite, we set off for our first trip in the Park at about 10.30 am.

IMGP2522 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After checking in at reception, we drove over to the shop at Twee Rivieren and saw this little chap. Our first sighting in KTP!

IMGP2523 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We decided that we had head up towards Nossub until about 3pm, and then turn round back to Twee Rivieren, in order to get back to our campsite by 6.30pm so that we could get our first break going. No sooner had we started our drive, we saw our first lonely Wildebeest resting under a tree.

IMGP2526 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we came across our first sightings of the famous social weaver nests - what an incredible feat of nature!

IMGP2529 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2530 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then our first ostrich sighting!

IMGP2532 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Within minutes, we were elated to come across this small herd of red hartebeest, with youngsters among them.

IMGP2536 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another social weavers nest - it looks like a perfect thatch, doesn't it?

IMGP2538 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The bird-life on this first day was amazing, but I am the worst when it comes to identifying birds, so I might get some of their names wrong, or simply not know what types of birds they are, so please bear with me! I think this is a goshawk - am I correct?

IMGP2539 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we spotted this silver-backed jackal strutting along. Unfortunately not very much in focus...

IMGP2544 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Eventually we spotted the first of many sightings of the enigmatic gemsbok - what perfect markings these animals have!

IMGP2552 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2557 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As we continued trundling along, our eyes caught some movement behind the scrubs and we saw these reptiles (lizards?) having an almighty fight!

IMGP2559 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Last night's storm must have deposited some rain in the Park, because we came across quite a few puddles of water along the road.

IMGP2562 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we saw this beautiful little family of ostriches...

IMGP2569 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Mommy, daddy and baby put up a show for us.

IMGP2572 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Excitement mounted when we came across our first sighting of springbok. I have never seen springbok with my own eyes before, so this was a first for me. Very beautiful creatures - in many ways, very similar to the impala.

IMGP2577 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Not long after this, we saw our first secretary birds, who put up a nice pose for us.

IMGP2590 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2594 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2598 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2599 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2604 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I just love this one - is it a goshawk?

IMGP2608 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A little way later, we saw these wildebeest resting in the shade of a tree. It was rather hot outside, but we were fortunate to have air-conditioning in our car, unlike these poor creatures.

IMGP2609 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2610 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2611 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A tortoise!

IMGP2613 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we saw the most photographed tree in KTP (based on what I've gathered on social media).

IMGP2620 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

What amazing structures these humble birds construct!

IMGP2621 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Our first kill sighting, well kind of.

IMGP2622 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I was enthralled by this sighting of a Kori Bustad (spelling?) or, as someone once mis-pronounced it as Gory Bastard!

IMGP2626 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another beautiful pose for my camera.

IMGP2628 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This ostrich was fascinating to watch as it spread out and flapped its wings.

IMGP2630 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2631 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then broke into a trot.

IMGP2633 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Not sure who this is - please help?

IMGP2634 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another angle of the same bird.

IMGP2638 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we saw our first woodpecker - what a striking bird!

IMGP2641 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2643 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

These ground squirrels showed off for us.

IMGP2644 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2647 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2650 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2651 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Followed by another display of beauty by this secretary bird.

IMGP2652 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2658 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2659 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The circle of life on display.

IMGP2661 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another unidentified bird.

IMGP2663 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then, much to Margaret's relief, we reached Melkvlei picnic spot. And there were no lions guarding the entry!

IMGP2666 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Could anyone please help us with identifying this buck?

IMGP2668 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another stunning but unknown bird - almost looks like a budgy.

IMGP2669 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And this? Looks like a sparrow to me.

IMGP2672 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

An amazing lizard with almost artificial looking colouring!

IMGP2680 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more evidence of what happens here in KTP on a daily basis.

IMGP2681 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Aren't they adorable?

IMGP2683 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2686 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2687 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A portrait of a springbok.

IMGP2689 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I just love the setting of the ridge behind this ostrich.

IMGP2691 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more beautiful springbok.

IMGP2694 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This chap got his mitts up, all ready for a scrap, or so it looked it to me!

IMGP2696 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A young silver-backed jackal - he was such a perfect specimen.

IMGP2701 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2702 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2705 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Can someone identify this bird - looks like some kind of partriarch.

IMGP2706 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Strutting his stuff, this one...

IMGP2712 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We were given the evil eye by this character when we disturbed his meal.

IMGP2719 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We could not figure out what his meal was though.

IMGP2721 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2722 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2724 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Just before the end of today's trip, we spotted this rather large herd of springbok gathering.

IMGP2729 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we saw our first martial eagle.

IMGP2734 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2735 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

All in all, a most satisfactory first day in the KTP, even though we did not spot any lions, cheetahs or leopards. But we still have some more days ahead of us...

[Neville Bailey]

Hi Neville

Quite an eventful start to your trip

I'm a bit out of practice but will try help with your photo ID's:

- photo number 2539 & 2608: Lanner falcon
- 2622 & 2628: immature pale chanting goshawk
- 2634: adult pale chanting goshawk
- 2641: African hoepoe
- 2663: brown snake eagle
- 2668: steenbok
- 2996: scaly feathered finch
- 2672: ? Marico fly catcher
- 2706: Sandgrouse
- 2712: adult pale chanting goshawk

Looking forward to the rest of your report

Thank you so much, Jo, for stepping in where my ignorance fails me!

[Neville Bailey]

Hi Neville,

What a successful day! Lots of lovely pictures!
Your silver-backed jackal is more commonly know as a black-backed jackal.
2538 is a sociable weavers nest
2559 is a Agama aka Dragon Lizard
2613 is a Leopard Tortoise
2626 is a Kori Bustard (your spelling was almost correct )
2706 is a Namaqua Sandgrouse (male)
2719 is a Yellow Mongoose

Thank you for sharing!

Are you going to stay inside the park as well?

Thank you too, Robbert, for your assistance in identifying these animals and birds!

Unfortunately we won't be staying in the Park on this visit, because we made our decision to visit the Park very recently, so we took what we could get.

[Neville Bailey]

Day 3 of our Odyssey.

We woke up this morning a little rattled, as there was another big storm overnight, with heavy rain and plenty of lightning and wind, causing the tent to flap about violently at times.

However, the sun rose to greet us, accompanied by this magnificent show - an omen of good things to follow.

IMGP2739-Pano by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We decided to get to the gate as soon as it opened for day visitors, which is 7am. After some yummy coffee with condensed milk, we hit the road towards the Park for our second visit. The clouds had descended once again and there was spitting rain. Believe it or not, it was quite chilly and we had to wear our jackets.

After checking in at the gate, we popped into the shop at Twee Rivieren to get some provisions for our day's outing, and also topped up the tank with petrol.

The first hour or two of this morning's drive was very cool, with continuous light rain, so we were forced to keep all windows closed and the windscreen wipers were working non-stop. The only time I opened a window was to take a quick photo, before winding it up again. Today we headed towards Mata Mata, and turn round at lunch time, because we had booked a sunset drive later today, which started at 6.30pm, and we wanted to grab a quick bite for supper at the restaurant beforehand.

Here is our first sighting of the day.

IMGP2742 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Followed by these cute little ones trying to keep warm and dry under a ledge in the sand.

IMGP2743 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I was fascinated by the rock formations along the calcrete ridge.

IMGP2750 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more bird sightings along the way - the rain had stopped and they were preening themselves.

IMGP2755 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2759 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

All of a sudden, this chap decided to take-off, and I barely managed to catch him doing so!

IMGP2761 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

One of many caves along the ridge - I wonder what lurks in them?

IMGP2766 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I spotted a single bee-eater on a branch and was getting my camera settings sorted out, when a second one decided to join him, so I got two for the price of one!

IMGP2772 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

At last we came across the famous meercats! What funny characters they are!

IMGP2775 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Here's one in their classic pose.

IMGP2780 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we came across a Kori Bustard, apparently the largest flying bird in Africa. He seemed to be fluffing up his feathers - I wonder why?

IMGP2789 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then the ever-present ground squirrels busily getting on with their business.

IMGP2790 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

What a handsome chap he is!

IMGP2797 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And such a beautiful specimen!

IMGP2798 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

At last we came across the well-known Auchterlonie picnic spot and museum, and decided to have a toilet stop and leg stretch, and to check out the museum.

IMGP2800 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We had hardly parked our car, when we spotted this hare very close to the perimeter of the car park. The sun was shining beautifully through his big ears!

IMGP2805 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After the short break, we continued in the direction of Mata Mata.

There is something rhythmic and stunning when a group of springbok decide to walk in unison.

IMGP2810 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2813 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This shy steenbok made a fleeting appearance before disappearing into the bushes and over the ridge.

IMGP2818 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another almost painterly scene of a herd of springbok.

IMGP2820 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As we took a turn-off to a view point, we noticed this jackal trotting along, as if on a mission.

IMGP2823 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then, out of nowhere, two spotted hyenas came along the dry riverbed, trotting in the same direction as the jackal!

IMGP2832 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2835 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2838 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

There was a puddle of water in the road ahead of us, which happened to be in their path, and they promptly stopped and had a dip and a drink.

IMGP2841 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2842 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We had a prime view of them, with no other vehicles in front of us, but other vehicles appeared very soon behind us to get a piece of the sighting. However, the people occupying the vehicle directly behind us decided to open their doors and step out of their vehicle in order to get better photography angles! We could not believe the stupidity and brazen disregard of the Park rules by these idiots! They could not have been more than 30 meters away from the hyenas, so one of the hyenas very soon noticed them.

IMGP2846 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2848 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Fortunately, for all concerned, there was no escalation of what could have been a very dangerous situation, and the hyenas carried on with their dipping and drinking.

IMGP2852 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We left the scene soon afterwards to give others a chance to view the hyenas without obstruction, and came across this carcass on the side of the road. Where the hyenas on their way to this?

IMGP2854 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We trundled along our way and spotted this cute fella.

IMGP2857 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Yet another stunning herd of springbok - I can't get enough of them!

IMGP2858 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then, at last, we came across our first giraffe sighting in KTP.

IMGP2864 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

What was this guy doing?

IMGP2871 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more ground squirrels doing their thing.

IMGP2878 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

At last we arrived at our planned turn-around point, the picnic spot at Urikaruus. We tucked into some delicious sandwiches, whilst avoiding the many biting ants (forcing us to perch on top of the benches).

IMGP2881 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A vehicle then approached and the driver told us that, if we continued towards Mata Mata for another 15km, we would see a some cheetahs at a kill. So our plans were quickly modified and we made a beeline for the sighting. Our first cat sighting!

On the way, we saw these giraffe necking.

IMGP2886 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2888 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

At last we arrived at the cheetah sighting, and we joined about four other vehicles at the scene. Now, in KNP at this time of year, such a sighting would attract no fewer than 30 vehicles!

I will let the pictures tell the story. There was a grown female and two cubs.

IMGP2891 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2896 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2901 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2906 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2912 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

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IMGP2945 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Aren't they amazing animals - so perfect and athletic?

After this wonderful sighting, we turned back towards Twee Rivieren, and came across this giraffe.

IMGP2946 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And this wildebeest.

IMGP2955 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And his mates.

IMGP2956 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more stunning birds.

IMGP2959 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2961 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2962 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I loved this scene of four gemsbok walking in single-file, with the ridge behind them.

IMGP2967 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then, out of the blue, we saw these pretty flowers!

IMGP2968 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This handsome fellow presented himself for us.

IMGP2970 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I was still about to recompose another shot of him, with my lens sticking out of the window, when a selfish tourist group bus rushed past us without even checking what we were looking at, causing our handsome fellow to take off!

IMGP2971 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A mole snake!

IMGP2975 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP2979 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another lovely secretary bird sighting.

IMGP2991 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Our final sighting of today's travels was this red mongoose scurrying past us.

IMGP2998 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

[Neville Bailey]

Good news! Internet access has been restored here in the Kgalagadi again, so I can continue with my not-so-live travel report again.

As I mentioned earlier, we had booked a sunset drive on Tuesday night. After our self-drive on Tuesday, we popped back to our campsite and had a quick early dinner at the restaurant there, and then headed back to Twee Rivieren at 6.30pm to get onto the sunset drive truck.

Our guide greeted us warmly and we met the other people that joined us on the drive - we were 9 in total.

The drive route was on the Nossob road, up until about Rooiputs and back, ending at about 9pm.

We saw our first owls!

IMGP3008 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

These guys were very curious and their necks were stretching in and out all the time, trying to get a good view of us. Who was watching who in this situation, I wonder?

IMGP3013 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another grumpy looking professor owl on the ground.

IMGP3018 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As the light faded, we came across this Kori Bustard.

IMGP3024 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

There is something very special about a Kgalagadi sunset!

IMGP3025 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We saw quite a number of nocturnal animals on the drive but I did not have my camera settings fine-tuned enough, so I botched the first lot of attempts, but I managed to get some reasonable shots (without using a flash).

Here is a jackal.

IMGP3059 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

He was very curious with us as well, or maybe he was paralyzed by the spot lights shining on him!

IMGP3063 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3070 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another owl!

IMGP3077 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Hope you enjoyed our sunset drive!.

[Neville Bailey]

Day 4 of our Odyssey - Wednesday 28 December 2016.

This morning we decided we would leave as early as possible (7am for day visitors) and drive from Twee Rivieren to Mata Mata and back. We reckoned, with the clearer conditions, we would have a different experience to what we had yesterday.

Unfortunately, I did not keep notes of our trip, as I expected to post it that night while my memory was still fresh, but the storm messed up our internet connection and I am now posting the day's report two nights later. This means that I cannot remember where every photo was taken. However, I will try my best.

Our drive started with the usual bird-life for which KTP is so famous.

IMGP3087 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3090 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

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Then we came cross this murderous bird! It seemed to be plucking the feathers from another smaller bird, before ripping it to pieces and devouring it.

IMGP3103 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3118 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3123 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After witnessing that gory scene, we saw a much more pleasant and pastoral scene.

IMGP3127 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then we saw this martial eagle performing some kind of acrobatic stunt.

IMGP3135 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We pulled into Auchterlonie for a leg stretch and I spotted this skink sunning itself.

IMGP3146 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another view of the museum at Auchterlonie.

IMGP3147 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After our pitstop, we saw this cute thing pop its head out from its burrow.

IMGP3149 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A portrait of a springbok.

IMGP3150 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Sparring exercises!

IMGP3155 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The long and the short of it...

IMGP3159 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Our first Cape fox sighting, with its young.

IMGP3171 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Without fail, the meerkats put up a show for us!

IMGP3184 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3186 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3187 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3191 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then we came across this tower of giraffes.

IMGP3194 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

With one deciding to cross the road, dwarfing the car in the background.

IMGP3200 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Eventually we reached Urikaruus, and stretched our legs once more. It was hot out there!

IMGP3203 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

There was so much water on the ground and in the river-bed, after last night's storm, and this Kori Bustard seem to love it!

IMGP3205 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The cutest Cape fox appeared from the bushes and showed off for us.

IMGP3210 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3218 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3219 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3221 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3223 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After another 15km or so, we found the same spot where we witnessed the cheetahs. Look what's left of the kill, one day later! We were debating why the stomach was not eaten.

IMGP3231 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Could this be the sibling of the aforementioned kill?

IMGP3233 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I just love this shot - it epitomizes the essence of the Kgalagadi. Red sand dunes and the secretary bird.

IMGP3238 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This secretary bird decided to quench its thirst and one of the water holes closer to Mata Mata.

IMGP3249 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another beautiful springbok herd.

IMGP3256 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more sparring...

IMGP3264 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3265 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

In single file they march.

IMGP3270 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3274 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

What a stunning place is the Kgalagadi!

IMGP3280 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The ever-present gemsbok.

IMGP3282 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3284 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And the elegant giraffe.

IMGP3286 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

At last we reached our destination - a very hot Mata Mata!

IMGP3295 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

While we were at Mata Mata, I spied these ostriches bathing on the nearby pool of water.

IMGP3303 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3305 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Getting ready for our return trip.

IMGP3306 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

An overhanging social weavers nest - imagine if that lot fell on top of a car!

IMGP3308 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We passed the scene of yesterday's cheetah kill once again, and here is a shot of the remains of the kill, from another angle.

IMGP3309 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more amazing birds!

IMGP3315 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3319 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another pitstop!

IMGP3321 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more birds along the way.

IMGP3325 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3329 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We startled this steenbok on the road.

IMGP3331 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And also this trio of ostriches.

IMGP3333 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another encounter with a jackal.

IMGP3336 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

What a comical scene!

IMGP3344 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We were puzzled when we saw these two tortoises walking across the road together, with the one appearing to nudge the other along the way. On closer inspection, it was apparent that one of the tortoises had a lame back leg!

IMGP3346 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A proud pose.

IMGP3349 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We were very proud with ourselves to have spotted this little owl in the remains of a social weavers nest.

IMGP3353 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

It appears that social weaver nests are used by many other birds as well!

IMGP3354 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3355 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After the trip, we got to our campsite for a braai in the most perfect weather conditions - clear skies without any wind or threats of a storm! I celebrated this with a shot of the Milky Way. Which version do you prefer, the colour or the B&W?

IMGP3362-Pano-2 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3362-Pano by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

[Neville Bailey]

Day 6 of our Odyssey.

We had our first restful sleep last night - no winds and no storm!

We got up early, had coffee and breakfast and headed to the KTP gate at Twee Rivieren just before 7am, the opening time for day visitors. After checking in, we filled up with petrol and headed to Nossob, our destination for today.

Our first sighting was this eagle.

IMGP3371 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Followed by this jackal, trotting busily along.

IMGP3377 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then we met up with our ostrich family again - we’ve seen them in this area on all the occasions that we’ve passed through here (between Samevloeing and Rooiputs).

IMGP3381 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Here’s a closer look at Junior.

IMGP3382 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And another sighting of an eagle.

IMGP3386 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The ever-present Kori Bustard.

IMGP3389 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3391 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This magnificent red hartebeest appeared, but froze completely when it saw us.

IMGP3397 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then I was presented with the iconic shot that I have waiting for the entire trip - a gemsbok on top of a Kalahari dune!

IMGP3398 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

To our amazement, we came across this sleepy owl, who gave us the hairy eyeball.

IMGP3406 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

FINALLY! Our first lion sighting of our trip, although it was not the lion sighting that I was hoping for, it was still a lion sighting. We encountered these flat lions near Rooiputs. They showed no intention of moving at all, so we moved on.

IMGP3407 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another jackal trotting about.

IMGP3416 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The following sequence of images seemed to be of two eagles fighting over some prey, possibly a snake, but we could not make out what it was.

IMGP3422 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3433 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3434 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3442 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This is what greeted us when we got to the Melkvlei picnic spot. The people in the photo have perched themselves on top of the table due to the water all around.

IMGP3445 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Fortunately access to the toilets was fine, as it was on higher ground.

IMGP3446 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I think it was at Kransbrak that we came across these gemsbok having a drink.

IMGP3447 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3448 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The road further north was flooded in many areas, but it gave the animals more drinking options.

IMGP3456 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We stopped for another leg stretch at Dikbaardskolk picnic spot.

IMGP3457 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

During my leg stretch routine, I spotted this little mouse.

IMGP3459 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After quite a long and uneventful stretch, we eventually got to Nossob, and we had a picnic lunch in the hide - nice, cool and peaceful. Initially there was no activity at the waterhole, except for some small birds, but eventually some very twitchy springbok made their way for a short drink.

IMGP3463 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3468 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3469 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3474 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Suddenly, they darted off! Something must have spooked them.

IMGP3477 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After a nice break at Nossob, we headed back south. I was drawn to this scene of a springbok and Cori Bustard in the same frame.

IMGP3482 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

After some more boring stretches of road, we saw an usual sighting of bateleur eagles and vultures hanging out together. By the way, this was also our first sighting of vulture.

IMGP3484 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3488 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3489 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3491 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3492 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3493 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then another red hartebeest was spotted just off the road.

IMGP3500 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

When we saw this kudu cow, we were over the moon, as they are not that common in the park, especially in the south. She posed so nicely for us.

IMGP3504 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We had no sooner commented that it would be fantastic if we saw a kudu bull, when our wishes were granted!

IMGP3513 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another beautiful eagle pose.

IMGP3522 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then a pair of Bateleur eagles!

IMGP3531 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I love eagles, even though I don’t know most of their names.

IMGP3537 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

This jackal was drinking from one of the many puddles in the road, and he seemed unperturbed by our close proximity.

IMGP3552 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Some more flat lions.

IMGP3554 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Followed soon afterwards by these cheetahs lazing under a tree.

IMGP3555 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3562 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

It was a long and tiring day, but very rewarding. The cold beers were very welcome when we got to our campsite!

[Neville Bailey]

30 Dec 2016

This morning Tyron decided to stay at the campsite for the day, so it was only Margaret and me in the car for the day. So we got to the Twee Rivieren gate at 7am sharp and then onto the petrol station to fill up. Unfortunately we could not get any fuel because the heat (even at that time of the morning!) caused the unleaded petrol pumps to not work. Apparently extreme heat causes air pockets in the petrol tanks which then shut down the bowser pumps. So we had to do our drive on half a tank.

While I was at the petrol station I admiring this Unimog having its tyre pressure adjusted.

IMGP3565-Pano by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We decided that we would drive along the Nossob road as far as Kij Kij and then cross over to the Mata Mata road along the dune road, and then head onto Mata Mata for lunch before returning to Twee Rivieren directly.

Soon after leaving Twee Rivieren I came across this ostrich strutting along the red dunes. Unfortunately the photo was spoilt by the feint out-of-focus branches in the foreground. I was in two minds whether or not to delete the photo, but I decided to keep it.

IMGP3567 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We then came across these two red hartebeest resting on the ground.

IMGP3568 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another first for us - gemsbok calves!

IMGP3572 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3581 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

They were watched carefully by their mother.

IMGP3588 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3590 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

All legs!

IMGP3593 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Mommy watching her offspring with pride.

IMGP3594 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Wotcha looking at?

IMGP3595 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A little further up the road we spotted (pun intended) this cheetah in the distance.

IMGP3598 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then some flat lions.

IMGP3603 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another elusive steenbok.

IMGP3606 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Just before we took the dune road turnoff, we saw this jackal.

IMGP3609 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Once on the dune road, there was nothing to see, except for this steenbok foraging on top of the dunes.

IMGP3612 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

When we got onto the Mata Mata road, there was a lot more activity.

I’ve been trying in vain, until now, to get a clear photo of these birds.

IMGP3618 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As we were driving, scanning for game, we noticed a sudden scurrying of something on the ground near the road and then, perched on a scrub, was this lizard. It was absolutely still, like a statue.

IMGP3620 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we saw a meerkat running along the ground.

IMGP3624 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then it stopped suddenly to survey the surroundings for any danger.

IMGP3629 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I love these types of shots.

IMGP3633 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Near Batulama waterhole we spotted these two lions relaxing in the shade on the other side of the river bed.

IMGP3635 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3640 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A secretary bird quenching its thirst in the heat of the day.

IMGP3650 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Even a wildebeest needs to have a drink now and then.

IMGP3653 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A family of giraffe sampling the leaves.

IMGP3654 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3655 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then we marvelled at this martial eagle wading in the water.

IMGP3657 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As we drove along the road, following someone else towing a trailer, we noticed something in the middle of the road in the distance. When we got closer, we saw that it was a gemsbok carcass.

IMGP3661 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Where were the lions that caused this unfortunate gemsbok’s demise? It didn’t take long for us to spot these two young male lions across the river bed. If you look carefully, you will notice a nasty gash on the side of the lion in the foreground - the result of the gemsbok’s sharp horns?

IMGP3663 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3667 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Another typical Kgalagadi scene.

IMGP3670 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A lovely sighting of a vulture nearby.

IMGP3671 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then he decided to give a demonstration of his take-off manoeuvre.

IMGP3674 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3675 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3678 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3686 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A great springbok sighting followed soon afterwards.

IMGP3691 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3694 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3695 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

On our way back from Mata Mata, we were privileged to witness two giraffes drinking.

IMGP3697 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3699 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3700 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we saw this young Bateleur eagle.

IMGP3705 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I love the reflection of this eagle in the water.

IMGP3706 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then he flew off!

IMGP3710 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We almost missed this Cape fox lying dead still, very close to the road.

IMGP3713 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As we approached the gemsbok kill from the opposite direction, we saw that the two lions had moved into the road, very close to their kill. Notice how the neck of the gemsbok has been pulled completely backwards.

IMGP3714 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A closer view of the lions, with the gash very apparent on the wounded lion. The gemsbok must have put up a brave and vicious fight.

IMGP3715 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3718 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3722 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3724 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3725 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Looking back at the carcass, from the viewpoint of the lions.

IMGP3726 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The look of a satisfied and full lion.

IMGP3727 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As if our sighting of the kudu yesterday was not enough, we were treated to this warthog sighting! Apparently they are very rare in KTP.

IMGP3733 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3734 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3735 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

When we arrived back at camp at about 6pm, Tyron was waiting for us with a bush pig potjie for dinner!

All of a sudden, as the sun was setting, we noticed the sky changing colour towards the east, and we were told that a massive sand storm was rapidly approaching, and that we should get everything under cover as soon as possible. Within minutes after this photo was taken, the sand storm hit us with a vengeance, and continued for at least an hour, while we huddled together in our private ablutions eating our bush pig potjie!

IMGP3736 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

[arks]

More stunning sightings, Neville, but I think that your "young Bateleur eagle" is actually a blackchested snake eagle A bataleur would be all brown, while your eagle has a white belly and legs, so .....

[Neville Bailey]

31 December 2016.

Our final day at KTP has sadly arrived.

We decided to drive from Twee Rivieren along the Nossob Road, as far as Melkvlei picnic spot, then track back to Twee Rivieren for a toilet break, and then onto the Mata Mata road as far as Urikaruus, and then back to Twee Rivieren.

Soon after we started our drive, we came across this scene of a wildebeest and two gemsbok sharing the shade of a tree.

IMGP3741 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then this classic view of springbok grazing alongside the dunes.

IMGP3744 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We spotted these two young jackals resting in the shade, while their mother was foraging in the distance.

IMGP3745 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Then we came across this interesting bird, which I have identified as a crowned lapwing in my Roberts guide - am I correct?

IMGP3748 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A beautiful Bateleur eagle.

IMGP3751 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

I was fortunate to capture this eagle in flight.

IMGP3753 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Along the road, we came these two ostriches drinking from a puddle, and I waiting until they were in sync with each other!

IMGP3769 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A peaceful scene of wildebeest grazing.

IMGP3787 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And another striking springbok herd.

IMGP3789 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We found another ostrich family, with many chicks!

IMGP3790 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3792 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We loved watching this leggy young red hartebeest galloping around the river bed.

IMGP3795 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

All of a sudden, we saw this gemsbok running like it was being chased, but we could not see anything chasing it. It was quite exciting watching it, hoping that we would witness and chase and a kill, but it was not to be.

IMGP3796 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3799 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then, when we were on the Mata Mata road, we could believe our eyes when we saw a kudu bull again, only two days after we saw one on the Nossob road.

IMGP3805 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3806 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

We spent a while watching this eagle devour its prey close to the road.

IMGP3823 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3828 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3832 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A steenbok resting in the shade. It was surprisingly calm when we approached it - normally they are very skittish and dart away when you approach them.

IMGP3838 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A typical Kgalagadi scene - a windmill, springboks and dunes!

IMGP3839 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

And then we met up with our warthog again - I am sure it was the same one that we saw yesterday, as it was in the same area.

IMGP3840 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Excitement again! We noticed a few cars parked in the road and, after waiting our turn to view whatever was causing the traffic jam, we gazed onto this handsome male lion, sleeping in the shade. His mate was lying under another tree, on the other side of the road, but we could not get a decent photo of her.

IMGP3842 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

He sure had his share of battle scars!

IMGP3844 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

A family of giraffes.

IMGP3848 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

On our way back to Twee Rivieren, we same across the two lions again, and this time I managed to get a shot of the lioness.

IMGP3853 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3862 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

The male lion was sitting up this time, so I got a few shots of him posing nicely for us.

IMGP3865 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

IMGP3868 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

As we continued our drive, we spotted two lions on top of the ridge. One of the lions was very relaxed!

IMGP3872 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

Not far afterwards, also on top of the ridge, there were some wildebeest.

IMGP3873 by Neville Bailey, on Flickr

It was a great final game drive. We headed back to our campsite and lit the fire for the last time, and hit the sack early, in anticipation for the long drive back to Durban the next day. No New Year’s Eve partying for us this year!

Our first visit to KTP was a great experience, even with some of the challenges we faced, and we definitely will be back. I think we missed out a lot by not staying in the Park itself, as I would imagine so much more can be seen in the hour and a half before 7am. We will need to get ourselves kitted out better as well. But now we have a better idea of what the Kgalagadi is all about.

Thank you to all of you that have been following our adventure, as it unfolded!

[Neville Bailey]

Here is a YouTube compilation of the photos I took on our trip.