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 Post subject: Peterbee in the KTP - January 2008
Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:02 pm 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
ANOTHER KTP TRIP REPORT, to add to the 6 already in progress :clap:

I have never visited KTP in summer, but had long dreamed of being there during the rainy season : thunderstorms, heat and for a change, some green vegetation.

Given the fickle and unpredictable rainfall patterns in KTP, this would be difficult to get right. I would have to fly in from Cape Town at short notice, and there was always the risk of disappointment that no rain would actually fall where I happened to be. Well, recent trip reports painted a very ‘green’ picture, and Safarigirl’s photos :thumbs_up: of flooded roads and violent thunderstorms had me studying the satellite weather reports closely, looking for at least 3 days of predicted rain.

And so it was one Friday morning in January that I booked my flight and 34 hours later arrived in TR, expecting to stay just 4 days.

When my mother, a certified KTP junkie of note, who had first dragged me kicking and screaming to KTP some 15 years ago, heard of my plans, she insisted on coming with, even though I expected she would find the heat unbearable.



DAY 1 - Twee Rivieren

A short drive out on the Mata Mata road just before sunset. Compared to September, the green dunes and riverbed are a shock. There are flowers everywhere.

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Stopped at Houmoed, as it was already late, to find only a Falcon

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As the road leaves the valley, crossing the dunes to TR, saw a herd of springbok, in classic alarm pose – standing rigidly still and staring fixedly at the dune ahead of us. We waited. Finally out of the long grass, two female lions.

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They walked across the road into the dunes, and although I thought they would drink at Houmoed, they did not reappear. ( I have a suspicion that Pikasso was with me at this sighting, if only I could see his photos :roll: )

At dusk, the sky turned to a brooding purple, thick clouds rose over Botswana, and forks of lightning lashed the distant dunes. Slow thunder rolled across the land all night long.


DAY 2 - Twee Rivieren to Nossob

Dawn revealed puddles of water around camp, and a colourful sky.

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Just a light shower or two during the night. Its good to be back in the Kalahari, the sounds and scents of a summer morning. And strange not to be wrapped up in layers of clothing, typically required during chilly autumn and spring visits.

First off at 6am, and 4 lions are right outside the gate, coming across the road from the small waterhole :shock:, the attendant who opened the gate must have just missed them. They climb up the dunes and settle down. Push on along the Nossob road. Again, the pools of water and green dunes are a wonder to see, in what is usually a very dry area of the park. At Rooiputs, a male lions sits quietly amongst the flowers.

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I turn back and take the Leeudril 4x4 trail over the dunes to the Auob riverbed. I did this in September, and saw nothing – same this time, except for the incredible scenery.

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Over on the Auob, its difficult to think of this as a semi-desert

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And then appeared a rather large tree, firm sturdy branches, providing plenty of shade, ideal resting place for a ........ :P


(still getting the hang of the new picture size limit, next posting will be better)


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Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 3:35 pm 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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The recent reports, yours included have certainly changed the mind set about the Kalahari in the Months November through to February

Have always avoided those times and yet the last two November trips were outstanding for game viewing.

December - January I honestly thought was only for crazies....now I think I may have been missing something over the last 16 years. Always March, April and August, September

Thanks for all the great sighting reports, new plans to be made


Steve


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 6:24 pm 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
Steve - I had the same thinking before this trip. I was led to believe that all the general game dispersed into the dunes in the rainy season, followed by the predators. I arrived expecting to see very little, hoping only for green scenery and rain. Well, it was as good as any other month, so bang goes another general KTP theory.

But the heat, well.... :shock:


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:13 pm 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
Okay, for Dreamer and Pikasso and the whole lot of you, nibble on this.. :P

hors d'oeuvre

while I prepare the main course :wink:


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:11 pm 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
DAY 2 – continued – Twee Rivieren to Nossob via upper dune road.

As I rounded a corner, just south of Monro, in a large tree…

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The famous Twee Rivieren leopard mom and cub (still without names???).

First saw Mom in May 2006, parading herself in front of the game viewing truck near TR. Cub was born around March 2007, and I saw her for the first time in May, then again in Sept. What luck and joy to see them again, in good health. They each had a catch in the tree, Mom an adult springbok, and junior a baby springbok, just behind it in above picture (on left).

I thought they would sleep the day away (it was 10.30am), but another KTP theory (“leopards don’t move around in the heat of the day”) was about to be turned on its head.

Junior accidentally dislodged the young springbok, which fell to the ground. Both sprinted down the tree. Junior was unable to get it back up, Mom wasn’t going to help. After much indecision, Junior dragged it up the side of the dune and hid it in a small bush. Then milled around the base of the tree, before moving up into the “kitchen” branch, for a snack on Mom’s catch :roll:

Okay, I took 493 photos of these two in 2 hours, so here are just some of the best. Enjoy

Junior has retrieved and stashed his small catch under a bush, and returns to the tree
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Mom has returned to the tree, and rests,
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While Junior takes up some shade,
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But eventually makes to climb the tree
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Junior on the “kitchen” branch…
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Perched uncomfortably, Mom tried to get back to sleep
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Once again, both leopards were very much at ease with us (three cars max).

Best Performing Leopards 2007, for sure, and about to repeat in 2008. :clap:

At 12.30pm, in the broiling midday heat, we headed north via Kamqua and the dune road to Nossob. In my rearview mirror, I could no longer see Pikasso following - they had gone to MM :wink:

Ok, no more pics for this page, videos to follow :P


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:10 pm 
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Senior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Heart - Grootkolk, Soul - KTP, Body - far too far south most of the time!
WOW! Awesome pix! :clap: Thanx for the update on this special leopard and cub. :dance: Peter,did you perhaps see whether the cub was female or male? Could still be too early? Why I ask - depending whether the cub is male/female - female cubs stay longer with the mom.

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http://www.ast.uct.ac.za/~schurch/leopards/

F2/2014


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 9:42 am 
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@wanderw

If you see what I see, then it is a male leopard :wink:

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Can we give this chap a name ? Can I propose Jannie?


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 4:37 pm 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
DAY 2 – continued – Twee Rivieren to Nossob via upper dune road.


Some videos

Lion at Rooiputs
lion at rooiputs

Lunch falls out of the tree
leopards exit tree

Jannie resting in the shade
resting in shade

Lunch is retrieved and stored safely elsewhere
hiding prey

Feeding on springbok
lunch time


At Kamqua, I took a picture of the lush green grass, and later compared it to a similar view taken last September.

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Sept 2007
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Jan 2008


Well, the lower Auob, contrary to expectations, was green with plenty of Springbok and Wildebeest. The road was in very good condition. Then over the upper dune road. Quiet as usual, some gemsbok and steenbok. Every puddle in the road was covered with butterflies.

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road cleaners

The dune road section from Moravet to the Nossob is in a bad condition, in fact, I think quite dangerous for the unsuspecting motorist (washaways, deep potholes).

Stopped at Dikbaardskolk for lunch and a rest after the morning’s excitement. The Nossob is green and the vegetation thick. I have great expectations of seeing the famous Nossob lions, but even better, the sky was now thick with clouds, towering thunderheads building up over Botswana.

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A hint of rain


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:36 am 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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The quality of the leopard videos wasn’t that great, so I have loaded them again, the files are a bit bigger - hopefully the dial-up folks can still watch. Enjoy

Leopard

Leopard

Leopard

Leopard

Leopard


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:45 am 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
DAY 2 – continued – Twee Rivieren to Nossob via upper dune road.

A short drive to Marie se Draai after checking in at Nossob. Very quiet, as though all the animals sensed the imminent rain, and had withdrawn early to the dunes, only a few raptors remained.

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Back to camp. At sunset, the storm clouds retreated into Botswana and the sky cleared :( . Time for a well-earned lamb chop braai, with red wine. :P Across the riverbed, far off in Botswana, lightning swept the sky and sizzled through the clouds. Up at the guest house overlooking camp, there is a large area of grass and bush in front of the braai area. Here I sat watching the spectacle, as the barking geckos marked the end of another day.

I tried to take a video of the braai, lightning over Botswana and the sunset serenade.
Nossob at dusk




DAY 3 –Nossob

(Those of you interested only in wildlife, skip to Day 4 – today is all about rain, thunder and more rain)


Woke at 5am to the sound of soft rain falling on the roof of the car outside the window, and as dawn broke, the sky was heavy with cloud. Out the gate at 6am and on the way to Cubitje, got caught up in a Kalahari rainstorm, huge pelting drops, and I stopped to take some video.

Kalahari rain

Kwang resembled a soaked and soggy swamp, and looked as miserable as Cape Town on a winter’s day. Not an animal in sight. I could recall all my previous visits, especially last September – brown, parched riverbed, dry waterhole, shuffling wildebeest waiting a turn to take water from the pump outlet pipe, swirling clouds of dust.

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Had our coffee and breakfast, and watched the rain fall, growing puddles and then into pools of water.

Rain at Kwang

Then headed back to camp.

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On the way, it started to lighten up a bit. Only a few red hartebeest to be seen on the way.

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At about midday, a massive storm broke over camp. Or so I thought – later it turned out that Marie se Draai got the brunt of it. It lasted a couple of hours, thunder booming down from the black clouds, and rolling out over the dunes, accompanied by heavy showers of rain. I took some video in camp, and then, thinking the storm was headed north, I went to the little lookout hill before Cubitje.

Afternoon thunderstorm

Once things had settled down, took an afternoon drive to Marie se Draai.

The road was flooded in a number of places. The riverbed opposite the waterhole had been turned into a small lake. Only the ostriches were out, swishing their way across the waterlogged riverbed, while the jackals waded knee-deep into the ‘lake’ collecting all the floating food that they would normally have had to dig out of the ground.

It seems that, as with windy days, antelope stick to the dunes in rainy weather ?

This tawny eagle was definitely having a bad hair day :P .

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Some pictures of Lake Marie

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Back at camp, the waterhole was littered with hundreds of Abdim’s storks, which only visit during the rainy season. I had spotted them earlier at lunchtime, gliding under the storm clouds.

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At around midnight, the Nossob lions woke the whole camp. They roared, groaned and grunted their way through the night, every hour or so, until dawn. Nobody in camp got any sleep that night. At 2am, I stuck the video out the window and recorded a Nossob lion at full throttle (you will need to turn up the volume)

Nossob lion at night

One lion was certainly close to camp, while another issued a faint reply from way south, but at night everything is amplified and distances are difficult to fix.

With the power off at 11pm, the fan stopped, and the room became a suffocating oven. With no insect mesh on the windows to keep out the mosquitoes, and the windows closed, this was the most difficult time heat-wise. Around dawn, the air cooled and remained pleasant until about 9am.

Well, this for me was a memorable day. My first visit in summer, and I had seen everything I had hoped for. For those who have only seen the Kalahari in autumn/winter, I hope you will consider a summer visit next time – the park is unrecognisably different and a whole new experience. :thumbs_up:


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:20 am 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
DAY 4 –Nossob

Out again at 6am, on a fresh and calm morning, with just a few clouds in the sky.

Bleary-eyed and sleep-deprived, I had hopes of finding last night’s noise-makers :evil: . There were lions tracks all the way from Rooikop to Nossob waterhole, but no sign of them. Went as far as MSD, all quiet, and then headed north and spotted a Cape fox as it dashed across the road – it soon disappeared into the thick bush. Never been to such a quiet and deserted Nossob, sightings were really poor.

But the antelope were starting to return to the riverbed, and again, lots of Red Hartebeest.

North of Cubitje Quap waterhole (closed for ‘reparations’ :doh:), fields of this attractive plant (dune lily I think)
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Just one wildebeest at Bedinkt waterhole, where we had breakfast and watched two falcons trying to chase away some starlings. Pushed on as far as Kousant – nothing. On days like this I start to get really despondent at the lack of game, and wonder why I come to KTP. Start the slow trek back to camp, empty handed :cry: .

And then, when you least expect it…. an unusual encounter. Just north of Bedinkt. About 15 gemsbok, standing in a tight group, staring ahead, not moving. Mmmm, seen this before, usually means something has spooked them. Lion, snake, caracal? The high banks to the road obscured the riverbed, and only by driving down the road and looking back with the binoculars, did I eventually pick up just one very flat, scrawny cheetah lying in the middle of the riverbed, in the shade of a tree.

This had developed into a standoff. The gemsbok refused to bypass the cheetah, but were determined to intimidate it into leaving the riverbed. They repeatedly edged forward, the leader coming to within 3 metres of the cheetah, which was not concerned - yawning, grooming, sleeping and rolling over to face the other way.

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Finally, the gemsbok gave way, and started to walk past the cheetah, but some stayed and stared at it, stamping their feet and swaying their heads.

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Some video :
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gemsbok and cheetah2
gemsbok and cheetah3

Once the cheetah had achieved this symbolic ‘victory’, it stood up, stared in our direction for a long time, ignoring the gemsbok passing behind it, and then walked off. The gemsbok immediately followed it, single file for some distance into the bush on the opposite bank. Can’t explain this strange behaviour, the riverbed here is wide, why would the gemsbok be so rattled by one skinny cheetah? I have seen similar behaviour in 2006, with 6 wildebeest, ousting 5 cheetahs from the riverbed, not far from here, even though at say 400metres wide, there was enough space for everyone to do their own thing.

A gemsbok calf, taking on the colours (and horns) of adulthood.
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Back at Nossob, SANP staff members Hendrik and Gert (Nossob has the friendliest staff of all the camps) flagged us down and kindly pointed out a pair of spotted eagle owls in a tree in the camping section. Well done guys :thumbs_up:

What a beautiful specimen.
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The sparse cloud cover still managed to produce some moisture.
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The Bombay Express refuels for the afternoon game (drinks :P) drive – a Mahindra, which performed very well. And yes,alas, it is a 4x4….. :big_eyes:
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The afternoon drive produced precisely one secretary bird on a tree.
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which turned left when it launched , instead of right :cry:
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The swimming pool was closed for repairs :evil: :evil: :evil: There were very few visitors in camp, not one camper.

So it was an early braai, and some locally made bread :dance: , on this final day at Nossob. A full moon came over the dunes, and the barking gechos came out to watch.


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Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:22 am 
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WOW! The eyes of the owl are priceless!!!

The cheetah-gemsbok interaction is fascinating indeed. They might have been protecting calves?

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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 8:18 am 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
DAY 5 –Nossob to Twee Rivieren via lower dune road

I like to be first out the gate, to pick up the animal tracks on the roads, so at 6am we were on our way via Marie se Draai. Lots of tracks, but no animals. Nossob had been disappointing – no lions, BE fox, AWC. The dense vegetation did not help. One regular German visitor commented : “its like a jungle out there”.

The drive south is quiet. There are hundreds of Red Hartebeest, but always in small groups. The great eland migration of last year certainly livened things up on the Nossob, now only dozens of carcasses remain.

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At Cheleka, the green thick grasses are 60cm high, and cover the entire waterhole area. It looks almost tropical. But typical of the erratic rainfall in this area, Kameelsleep, 30km south, is still dry and almost arid.

Near Kransbrak, dark lumps in the road.....

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Two males and two females, already lying in the shade, blocking our passge. I stopped some distance away, and edged forward slowly, to see how close I could get, without disturbing them - it was cool enough to just sit and watch these incredible animals, for about 25 minutes. They were a bit restless, probably realising they would eventually have to make way for us.

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The females moved off first, followed by the males, into the bush next to the road

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Stopped at Melkvlei (toilets out of order :shock: ), for a brunch braai. No animals in sight, but more worrying, not one car had passed us in either direction, in over 5 hours. The whole park was ours ! :wink: Were they all backed up at some fabulous sighting?

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At Kij Kij, the dreaded “road closed” sign (owing to flooding). I had sort of expected this, now it would be a long detour over the lower dune road, in the heat of the day, to Twee Rivieren.

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Tierkop waterhole, dune road, no animals in sight… :cry:
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Stopped at the leopard tree at Monro, but no luck. But on the other side of the road, a family of 3 meerkats. Very relaxed with the car, they came to within a few metres. I have had very few sightings of these entertaining creatures.
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I have never seen so many steenbok in the Auob riverbed, usually seen only on the dune roads
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Arrived in Twee Rivieren – it had been a long journey, and only ONE car had passed us the entire day. At 6pm, headed up the road to Samevlooeiing, and enjoyed sunset refreshments. Except for a few springbok, and these two, which I think are shelducks, it was quiet and peaceful.
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Out the corner of my eye, something moving through the bushes...
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This old and worn warrior took a long drink at the waterhole
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And then stood in front of the assembled audience of 5 cars, politely and quietly :P reminding us that this was his turf, and that it was time for us to return to camp (it was 7.15pm)

video – lion at samevlooeiing

First time I have been this close to a lion’s roar – thrilling, terrifying, immobilizing, the sound penetrates and vibrates through you :shock: :shock: :shock: . I now know what campers experience when a lions starts up outside the tent at night. Awesome. :clap:

Stunned silence at first, then a convoy of vehicles made all haste for the TR gate, arriving 5 minutes late, and what a disapproving look we got from the gatekeeper :redface: .

And tomorrow would be our final day in paradise :cry:


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Unread postPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:18 pm 
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Junior Virtual Ranger
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
DAY 6 –Twee Rivieren

Final dawn game drive, but before the gates opened, I enjoyed coffee outside listening to the camp birdlife announce a new day. On the roof of my chalet, an owl, too dark to identify, wooo-ing softly.

If I could wake up to this every morning…:wink: dawn audio video

With the Nossob road closed, we only had the choice of the Mata Mata road, but first the annoying 15-minute dune road to get to the Auob river – I hope there was a good reason for diverting the old road along the riverbed onto the dunes :x . But a reward was waiting for us at Monro waterhole – lions : 5 cubs, 2 moms, and a male. Playing at the waterhole in the early morning sun (6.30am).


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The old male who had roared at us the night before at Samevloeing
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After about 30 minutes, mom issued a few soft grunts, crossed the road and headed for the dunes. The cubs followed obediently, ambushing one another on the way. The male followed last.

Ok, calling all Page Turners - your help needed to continue with the remainder of the last day, including some lion cub video and more…


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 Post subject:
Unread postPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:23 pm 
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Location: Fish Hoek, Cape Town
DAY 6 –Twee Rivieren - continued
WARNING – following posting contains images of Meerkats :wink:

First some video of the Monro lions and cubs
cubs at play 1
cubs at play 2
cubs at play 3
cubs with very full tummies
cubs playing on the dunes
This old male had roared his lungs out at us the previous evening at Samevlooing, now he would leave only his business card :roll: male lion


On up the Mata Mata road, and it was already a busy day in the riverbed. Young springbok lambs were everywhere, in their nursery areas, under supervision of an adult.
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This African wild cat was very exposed in the middle of the riverbed. In the first photograph, his expression is one of growing concern , then he gaps it to the dunes
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Third meerkat sighting of this trip, near Auchterlonie, but far from the road (sorry MN :wink: )
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A lone red hartebeest
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There were large herds of springbok in the lower Auob
Cause and Effect ?
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Lambs crossing
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While the male springboks got on with more important business
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Day 6 will have to continue tomorrow………….. :wink: :P

_________________
STAY ON THE ROADS. KEEP CLEAR OF THE RIVERBED - ANIMALS ARE LIVING THERE.


Last edited by peterbee on Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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