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Day 1 – 14/02/2012

We left home (Pretoria) at 04:20 on 14 February 2012 … Valentine’s Day. After we had breakfast at Nelspruit, we were on our way to Orpen Gate. Fortunately Lesego warned Kruger National Park visitors not to use the R538 to Numbi Gate because of the community strike which was taking place at that moment. Visitors were advised to use the R40 to Hazyview and enter the Park either through Paul Kruger or Phabeni Gate. That’s why it came as no surprise to us to find the R538 closed by Metro Police vehicles.

We took the R40 and entered the park at Orpen Gate at 10:30. It wasn’t a very nice road to drive, with lots of heavy vehicles as well. Just before the gate we saw a lot of strikers with their sign boards about safeguarding Rhinos in KNP. After completing the form at the gate, we went to reception to complete the formalities before we could really start to relax. I proudly presented my brand new Wild Card for the very first time, without any hassles.

Within the first 3 kms on the H7 we were greeted by Blue Wildebeest, Impies with lots of young ones, Zebras, Steenbuck, Buffaloes and Giraffes.



This Giraffe had funny knobbles all over his body. Does anyone know what it is?





Southern Carmine Bee-eaters were everywhere. It looks like this one wanted to join the oxpeckers.



At first I thought this one was hurt in the middle of the road ...



But he was only sun bathing!



Then he flew away.





Then we came across a traffic jam (only 4 cars) about 2 kms from Satara. A very excited man told me that 3 male Lions were stalking a Waterbuck. We could only see one Lion, because the grass was very long.



I thanked him and said I am sorry but we cannot stay, we still have a long way to go to Shingwedzi.
On the H1-4 between Satara and Olifants Camp we found more Waterbuck and Warthogs.



The Warties were not clearly visible, due to the long grass, thus no picture.

About 3 kms before we reached Mopani, on the H1-6, we saw a few muddy Tsessebe.





And this lonely Buffaloe.



And then we came across this little guy who tried his best to reach the other side of the road in one piece.



We were actually booked in at Letaba for the first 4 nights of our trip, but after the floods my SO decided to change our booking to Shingwedzi instead. We were amazed to get a booking for the same 4 nights, because never before could we get a booking at Shingwedzi 11 months ahead, let alone 3 weeks before the time.

Shingwedzi which was a first for us, proofed to be a very nice camp. The chalet was very spacious and nice to stay in, apart from the sun shining right into the kitchen area in the late afternoon, which really wasn’t funny. SANParks should really think about putting up an awning at No. B41.

We unpacked the Hilux, put on a fire for our braai, and sat down with an ice cold glass of wine to celebrate Valentine’s Day in our most favourite place in the world - KNP! It was a long drive during a hot and tiring day and we went to bed early for a well-deserved rest.

Day 2 – 15/02/2012

We left camp at 5:40. It was heavily overcast, which made it impossible to take pictures so early in the morning. The silhouette of a sleepy baboon in a tree was the first to greet us as we left the gate.

These Southern Ground Hornbills were just waking up in the tree top.





On our way to Sirheni (H1.7) a few Giraffes were wondering around, too far for a decent picture.

Then we came to this lonely, but beautiful guy.



We saw a breeding herd of Ellies in the far distance, and although I don’t appreciate them too close, that was too far to appreciate properly.

Just look at the dust on this Terrapin’s back! Poor thing! He was not even close to water, and looked completely lost!



A much closer Ellie on the S56.



This poor Impie is in dire need of a few Oxpeckers!





The Woodland Kingfishers’ calls were heard all over the Park, wherever we were driving, but you could not always see them.



Not a good picture at all of the African Hoopoe, but this was the only pic we could get of one of them. (Apologies for the quality.)



Due to bad light (it was very cloudy), this beauty is almost just a silhouette.



Close to Sirheni a small herd of about 20 Buffaloes were grazing lazily, with a little Steenbuck dashing into the long grass, clearly not used to visitors. It needs to be mentioned that we found the roads to be very quiet during February. So much so that coming across another vehicle was a sighting to us.

There were no people at Babalala Picnic Site. A few workers were busy cutting (hacking) the long grass to make the place bearable. At 9:45 it was already very hot (27 degrees C), but it felt worse due to the high humidity.

On the H1.7 this lonely Buffalo was seeking some shade, but all he could find was long grass.



At the Boyela Waterhole 6 Zebras were quenching their thirst. The sides of the road were decorated with lots of pretty flowers.









On the H1.7, just before the Mpolongo Loop, a very lone Ellie was taking a rest in the shade.



A few kilometres further on, another one definitely had a mud bath. In a distance 4 Giraffes were looking for nice, young leaves.





About 2 kilometres to the south of the R52 turnoff, we found this beautiful juvenile Martial Eagle (or that is what I thought it was, please correct me if I am wrong).





About 1 kilometre further, an adult Martial Eagle.



Near Joao Waterhole, 4 Buffaloes were grazing, but you could hardly see the rest of them in the long grass.



It was quiet at Red Rocks, with 2 beautiful Egyptian Geese on the dam wall at Red Rocks Waterhole.



Close to Bateleur, on the S52, this beautiful Tawny Eagle (am I right?) draw our attention.



At the Rooibosrand Dam we found this Green-backed Heron and amazingly beautiful Wattled and Red-winged Starlings (please help with the IDs).









There were also a few Impies, Warties, a Hippo with a baby, lots of birds and ducks, but all too far for pictures. The dam was full of water an almost covered with algae.

At Silvervis Dam, we only saw one lonely Buffalo.



There were no birds in sight. You could hardly see the water due to the dense vegetation.

On the S52 a lonely Giraffe was wondering around,



and at the Gubyane Waterhole Impies and Zebras were quenching their thirst with the nice, cool water.









On the H1-6, more or less 50 m north of the S52, two Nyala ewes were dashing into the bush, too quick for any hope of a picture.

Although it might not look like many sightings, we have enjoyed this day immensely! The beautiful scenery, the (to us) new roads never travelled before, new places visited (i.e. Bateleur, Sirheni, all the dams, etc.), we had a wonderful day.

We dodged the sun in our chalet’s kitchen area, and tried to cool off with an ice-cold ice-filled glass of wine, while we had a retrospection of the day’s sightings. After a lovely braai, we headed for the shower and another well deserved night’s rest.

Such a great variety of sightings, Hilda Amd so may different birds and raptors as well

I love the hornbills, being endangered and rare birds it really special when you see them (long eyelashes ) I don't thinnk I have seen so many together before

I think the bird with the yellow wattles around the beak is a wattled Lapwing (Plover).... These are also not so common I think, so well spotted

And then I think the bird with the red wings is a Jacobin Cuckoo, but I'm not 100% sure

The martial eagle sure looks impressive

Day 3 – 16/02/2012

The day started very quiet as we left the Shingwedzi gate at 5:30, with a buffalo here and there in the riverbed. It was still cloudy. A hungry looking hyena was disappearing into the long grass.

A cute little Mongoose was sitting on a rock to have a better view of the area.



A small herd of buffalo – it looks as if they don’t know which way to go.



We stopped at Olifantsbad for a nice cup of coffee, where after we carried on on the H1-6.

At last, on our third day in the Park, our first clear view of a Warthog without any long grass covering him.



Egyptian Geese were enjoying the early morning at the Eendrag Waterhole.



At the Shidlayengwenya Waterhole this big Water Monitor looks very relaxed on the rocks.



On the other side, also on the rocks, were two White-faced Whistling Ducks, checking out which way the Monitor is going.



This Baobab, about 2 kms from Mopani, looks very impressive with all its leaves.



At Bowkerskop Waterhole a small herd of Buffalo just finished drinking.



Then we came along this big, muddy guy, one tusk broken off and not much left of the other one, plus a hole in his ear.



European Roller.



Lilac-breasted Roller (in the shade and cloudy conditions).



It was already 9:50 when we saw the first Impies of the day close to Mopani, which is normally a first sighting in Kruger when you leave any camp early in the morning.

We stopped for a comfort break at Mooiplaas, where we met the very friendly Phinias who has been working there for the past 17 years. There were no other visitors at the time, and no animals either. A few workers were keeping the place clean and tidy.

We had an early brunch at Confluence Lookout and found this Lilac-breasted Roller with two Yellow-billed Hornbills (in very cloudy conditions).



Thousands of yellow and white butterflies were flying around, as always during this time of the year.

There was a lot of activity at the Tihongonyeni Waterhole in the Tropic of Capricorn Loop, as can be seen in the following pictures:

Tsessebe




Blue Wildebeest



Secretary bird



Lots and lots of White Storks



Quite a few Elephants, but this one caught my eye with his trunk resting on his one tusk.



Ostriches



It was a lovely experience driving this loop.

On our way to the camp, we saw these vultures in the Shingwedzi Riverbed.



Tired, but very satisfied about another lovely day in the Park, we returned to the camp for another delicious braai, a nice shower and a peaceful night’s sleep.

Day 4 – 17/02/2012

We woke up to a first cloudless sky on this trip, and left the Shingwedzi gate at 5:45. Our first sighting was a Waterbuck charging into the thick bush. Now I was convinced that the animals in the northern parts are not used to vehicles. They seldom give you half a chance to take a picture!

On the S50 a few Impies didn’t mind me taking a picture.



Further on a Nyala ewe nearly broke her legs in her rush to get out of sight – only a piece of her back in the picture …. No lack of hiding place in these bushes.



Far down in the riverbed, a few baboons were playing around.



There was nothing at the Kanniedood Hide, but at the dam we found the following:

I think this is a Black-headed Heron?



And a Green-backed Heron?



Quite a few Hippos.





Three Zebras in a very good condition. No lion will be able to resist those hindquarters!



This Saddle-billed Stork was walking down the road, heaven knows whereto.





This little Chameleon didn’t seem to trust us by the way he was looking back.



Still on the S50, these two elegant Giraffes kept an eye on us.





Another Baboon family was playing and running around under the watchful eye of big daddy.







I was rather upset when I saw the plaque at the Dipeni Outpost was also removed.

At the Nyawutshi Bird Hide, two Egyptian Geese were entertaining us.



At Grootvlei Dam two Ellies were cooling down, with a few Buffs watching them from the other side.







An Egyptian Goose was guarding her offspring against a very hungry looking Croc.





TBC

2nd Part of day 4

It was very hot, and these Ellies could also not resist the water.



We stopped at the Shibavantsengele Lookout for brunch, with the lovely sound of nature around us. The Woodland Kingfisher was leading the choir – fantastic!

On the way to the Tropic of Capricorn (does anybody know whether KNP is the only Park, in SA or world wide, where the Tropic of Capricorn crosses a National Park?)



we found Emerald-spotted Wood-dove, Blacksmith Lapwing and Lilac-breasted Roller.









On the Tropic of Capricorn Loop (S143) two Buffs were walking next to the road.





Like yesterday, we found Buffalo, Blue Wildebeest, Zebras, Elephants, White Storks, Tsessebe and Ostriches in the distance at the Tihongonyeni Waterhole.













On the Shongololo loop, at the low water bridge over the Tsendze River, this beautiful Hamerkop was busy fishing.



At the Shipandani Overnight Hide, hippos were having an underwater meeting while two Egyptian Geese were watching on.





Two Buffs were cooling off in the water. The one tried his best to go undercover. Note that both ends of his horns are missing. Did he loose it during a fight, or what could be the reason?





At the Baanbrekers Waterhole on the S142 this Zebra clearly had a great escape by losing his tail.



At Frazerus, only the backsides of a Warthog family were visible in the long grass.



We came across quite a few extra large ant hills, which makes one wonder how long it took how many ants to build it?



At the Ntomeni water hole were 2 Buffs drinking water, but they were too far for a picture, as were the Zebras at the Outspan Waterhole.

Very satisfied after another lovely day in our “Heaven on Earth”, we returned to the camp. This would be our last night at Shingwedzi, and instead of dodging the late afternoon sun in our kitchen area, we tried to find Johan van Rensburg, who would also spend the night there. We thought it would be easy – just ask at reception. But it was not that easy, he didn’t book in his own name. Someone in the group booked their accommodation.

It was very funny, because some people looked bewildered when we walked straight to where they were sitting, and asked whether one of them perhaps was Johan van Rensburg. After about the fifth group, we’ve decided to return to our bungalow before we got injured.

My SO got a nice fire going for our last braai at Shingwedzi, and after cleaning up (the kitchen and ourselves), we went to bed – tired but excited to see what the next day has in store for us.

Day 5 – 18/02/2012

We woke up early, as usual, so that SO can pack everything onto the bakkie. After a thank you note to the cleaning lady with a tip as well, we were ready to go. It was cloudy as we left Shingwedzi gate at 5:50 for the last time during this trip. A Kingfisher, sitting on the wall at the gate, wished us a safe journey to our next camp, Satara.



A few vultures were just waking up in the trees next to the road, and in the rear view mirror we could see the sunrise. We turned around to take a picture of it.



Further on a Verreaux’s Eagle-owl was calling for his/her mate, while a Giraffe and a few Impies were starting their breakfast.



We passed the Hyena den on the H1.6, and found the male and female in the road. The female was howling and then we saw the male picking up the little one, carry it across the road and put it back in the den. How the baby got there is not known, because it was still very small and black and couldn’t walk up to the road by itself. We guessed it must have been carried there by something that caught it, because there is normally more than one baby, and maybe this one was dropped when the parents came back from their hunt before it could be eaten.





This guy was walking next to the road close to Mopani. It was already very hot, although it was not even 9 o’clock.



Not too far on, we came across a big herd of breeding Elephants. The little ones, some of which was very small, were not always visible in the long grass.







At the Middelvlei Waterhole on the H1.6 were Black-backed Jackal, Warthogs, Zebra, and Egyptian Geese.







More Zebras, Warthogs and a Kori Bustard were seen at the Malopenyana Waterhole.





Too far for any descent pictures were Water Buck, Elephants, Impies, Blue Wildebeest and a Buffalo. Further on another Ellie was dwelling on the bank of the Letaba River.



This Vulture was checking out the area on the detour to Olifants/Satara.



This is what the low water bridge to Balule looks like at the moment.



It looks like a pump house from a private camp that also ended up in the Olifants River.



This is the only Bateleur that we could find on this trip, on the S92 (causeway). The light was too bad for a nice picture, but it is still identifiable.



On the H1.4 I counted eleven Giraffes. They were not standing together so that I could get them into one picture. Here are a few of them.



At the Ngotso Dam were Ellies, Hippos, Warthies and Ostriches. Since there were not many pictures of Ostriches so far, I’ll only post a picture of them.



To be continued

Day 5 - 18/02/2012 (Continued)


Is this some kind of a Shrike? Will appreciate any help please.



Southern Carmine Bee-eaters were everywhere, so colourful and beautiful.





During the day we also saw this tired Rhino, taking a nap underneath a tree.



While we were watching him, another car stopped next to us and mentioned our yellow ribbon. It was big and bright yellow, nobody could miss it. The man said he also has a yellow ribbon, but he hasn’t put it on his side wing mirror yet, because it is so small. We said together “it doesn’t matter, please put it on”. It was CliveR and his SO from North West Province. It was very nice meeting you two CliveR!

We booked in at Satara, bought some charcoal and ice, and off we went to unpack for the next four nights. To me, moving is hard work, although my poor SO has to do the unpacking of the bakkie. Tired and hungry, he got the fire going, and we sat down to talk about our day, him with his Spiced Gold and Coke Zero, and I with my ice-filled glass of extra-light white wine.

Since we have booked a perimeter bungalow, we could see the young Hyena pacing up and down the fence, and Buffalo that were on their way to the waterhole. The peace and quiet was wonderful.

Please allow me to add these two pictures who also belong to day 5. I couldn't post them in my last instalment, since I constantly got a message that they exceed 800 pixels in width, which was not the case when I edited them. My Silent Partner kindly fixed that for me. You might think it is not something special, but to me, they are:

Marabou Storks, Geese and Ducks, as well as a few Hippos were gathering at the Nsemani Dam.





Thanks, at least Day 5 is now complete, as I wanted it. Next delivery to follow soon.

Day 6 – 19 February 2012

Our first sighting at 5:45 on the H1.3 was five Buffalos that slept close to the webcam waterhole. Zebras, Waterbuck, baboons, and a breeding herd of Ellies were all up early and busy having breakfast. Our only sighting of a bushbuck on this trip, just visible in the long grass.



Guinea Fowl with chicks disappeared in the grass before any pictures could be taken.

I’m not sure whether this is a Peregrine Falcon?





It was completely overcast and drizzling, and the light was very bad.
This beautiful Marshall Eagle decided to turn his back on us, not in the mood for any pictures.



Two Kudu ewes also turned their heads away as soon as I pressed the button, and then they were off to join a Giraffe far away.



A Saddle-billed Stork was also looking for food at the Kumana Dam, while the little one in the tree, (Red-backed Shrike?) was looking on.





Lots of these, that look like some sort of Spider’s nest, could be seen all over the Park. Does anyone know whether it is a spider’s nest?



Two Wahlberg Eagles were sitting in a tree, definitely not impressed with this weather.





This Black-bellied Bustard wasn’t sure whether he wanted to go into the long, wet grass or not.



Day 6 to be continued.

Day 6 - Continued

We stopped for coffee at the Mazithi Dam, in the presence of Waterbuck, White-faced Ducks, a Grey Heron and two beautiful European Bee-eaters.









We were on our way to Orpen Dam Outlook to meet WendyA at 9:30, and saw Blue Wildebeest, Warthog, Secretary Bird and Impies. It was now raining, and no pictures were possible. Close to the Dam lots of small frogs were jumping all over the road. I managed to take this picture.



We reached the Dam at 9:00 and enjoyed the beautiful view while we were waiting. There was a big Waterbuck on the other side of the dam, and Hippos in the water. I didn’t take my camera with, because it was still raining. At 10:00 we decided WendyA must have been held up somewhere, or forgot about our appointment. With no cell phone signal, we could’t try to contact her.

Very disappointed, we took the S35 to the N’wanetsi Dam. On our way, we struggled to get past an angry Ellie. Grazing in the rain were Kudu bulls, Impala and Zebras.

We stopped to read the commemorative tablet where Ranger Wolhuter was attacked by a Lion in 1903. He climbed in a tree which couldn’t have been very big if you look at the size of the piece of tree trunk left. That must have been a horrible experience.







Further on, two Ellies on each side of the road. They definitely would not let us pass. This one was very angry!



We decided to turn around and went all the way back to Tshokwane for a comfort break. The cleaning lady at Tshokwane kept those portable loo’s very clean. She was all on her own with nowhere to hide from the rain. With a big tip and a packet of lemon cream biscuits, we thanked her for keeping the place so neat and tidy, and left for the N’wanetsi Dam on the H1.3 and turned into the H6.

A Common Duiker disappeared in the thick wet bush, but we managed to get a picture of a very wet Steenbuck.



This beauty was also grazing in a distance, and a Common Reedbuck also disappeared in the thick bush before we could take a picture.



We returned to the camp, and the rain has stopped. A Yellow-billed Hornbill and a squirrel were running around in front of our bungalow while we were getting the fire going for an early braai.





What a day! We received a sms from WendyA where she said they were waiting for us as Orpen Dam from 11:00 to 12:00 …. She had her time for the appointment wrong, and when we heard that she even brought Elsa and her SO with, the disappointment was even bigger that we have missed them. Everything happens for a reason, and there was nothing we could do about it.

What will tomorrow have in store for us? We’ll see.

Wonderful episodes again, Hilda.

Your falcon might be a female Eastern Red-footed Kestrel (Amur Falcon). Ther are usually hundreds of them in Kruger in summer.

Hallo Hilda,
2 excellent episodes again

I think your falcon is an Eurasian Hobby Falcon (Europese Boomvalkie) Love all the birds

Day 7 – 20 February 2012

A Marabou Stork greeted us as we left the Satara gate at 5:35. He wasn’t in a talkative mood, because it was cloudy again.



We took the H7 and hardly saw the Hyena properly before it disappeared in the long grass. A few Blue Wildebeest, small herd of Buffalo and Zebras were grazing in a distance.



The Impies were too far away for a picture, as was the young Ellie. This little one was posing very nicely for a picture. I think it is a Swainson’s Spurfowl. (Please note that I try my best to identify all the feathered friends, and still make lots of mistakes. Any corrections are very welcome please.)



Red-backed Shrike?



This guy is not a baby anymore! Look at those tusks.



The Hippos at the Nsemani Dam were very shy.



You will always find baboons to entertain you, if nothing else.





Beautiful scenery at the Timbavati River viewpoint.



This looks like a Wahlberg’s Eagle to me.



Always on my wish list was a pack of Wild Dogs. We only saw them twice before on different trips. The first time, it was just one running in the road. The 2nd time, there were three of them, lying in the road. This time however, we found a pack of 22 in the Timbavati Riverbed. It was not a very good view, because of the dense bushes and they were far away, but here are a few pictures to proof it.







Further on were the normal baboons, Impies, Zebras, and a herd of Blue Wildebeest were having a meeting in the shade of a tree. It was 8:05 and already very hot (25 degrees C).



Far away were a few fat Warthogs in the long grass.



Guinea Fowl with the cutest little chicks disappeared in the long grass once again. Too quick for a pic.

Still on the H7, more Warthogs.







Day 7 to be continued. (I don't want to put too many pictures on one instalment.)

Day 7 - Continued

It was now becoming completely overcast. This Black-bellied Bustard was looking for something to eat, while the Magpie Shrike kept an eye on him.





I cannot resist to also post a picture or two of the Golden Orb Spider with a few little ones that we found at the N’wamatsatsa Waterhole. They were all over the Park.



This little Steenbuck on the S106 looks frightened. He clearly didn’t expect company.



This young Kudu Bull was guarding the ewes.





On with the birds, since nothing else came into sight. (Help please):

Emerald-spotted Wood Dove



Lesser Grey Shrike?



Southern White-Crowned Shrike?



Another frog’s nest, which I previously thought was a spider’s nest.



I must get some colour into this instalment (unfortunately I don’t know their names either, I just appreciate their beauty):









At the Sweni Waterhole were Impies, two Ellies and Blue Wildebeest. They are not really ugly if you look close?



The N’wanetsi River on the S100 looked so calm and beautiful.



We had to return to camp a little earlier, since we were expecting Pumbaa and her SO, Timon, for a braai. On the H1.4, close to Satara, we found this little one drinking from his mom.



while another young one was taking a nap.



We gave Pumbaa our Chalet number before we left for KNP, just in case we were not able to contact one another, so that they would know where to find us. They checked in at Satara on the 19th, and we wanted to give them time to unpack and get settled, before they come over for a braai at our chalet on the 20th. Late afternoon on the 19th, new people were moving in next to us. My SO wanted to know whether they look German to me, because it might be Pumbaa and her SO. Great was our surprise when they came to meet us after they finished unpacking …. It was Pumbaa and Timon! What a coincidence to have them as neighbours!

My SO was so disappointed when he couldn’t find charcoal at the shop. He had to braai with wood for the first time in his life, and didn’t know what to expect. Murphy’s law! Cannot find charcoal when you really need it! Anyway, we had a nice braai, and enjoyed their company so much. Two lovely people with lots of interesting tales to tell, lots of sightings to talk about, and after all the lovely conversation and laughter, it was time for bed. Everybody normally gets up early in Kruger.

This picture was taken on our last night at Satara. From left to right: Barryels, Hilda, Pumbaa and her SO, Timon.