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Day -1 Pretoria

Car packed (cameras first ) padkos being made.....

I am leaving at 02:30 tomorrow morning for my annual visit to KTP. This year for 11 nights. I will be flying solo (like Touareg) as my wife will be visiting children in UK. Tomorrow will be a long day as I have to travel all the way to KTC and have to stop of in Tweerivieren with a box of magazines for KG (Jannie we can chat longer on my return trip or on Friday when I will travel to 2R to phone the wife before she flies out)

I hereby undertake to, after all the years, do a TR (yes Dreamer ) with lots of




(Photo taken with cell phone as big brother is packed!!!) Yellow ribbon on the seat ready to be tied on......

Watch this space......... (Hope it will have lots of nice photos to follow)

As I am in a Corporate Environment I will start this TR with an Executive Summary to wet your appetite and keep you interested.

I had a wonderful 11 nights in my favourite park, some good and bad roads, some were very wet and mushy and others were dusty and obviously very dry. Sightings were very good with predators on most days. I was lucky to see a kill, a few unsuccessful kills and a very fresh kill. Although the summer avian visitors have left, I was still entertained by some nice sightings of birds.

I experienced the full spectrum of weather conditions from thunderstorms with my bed surrounded by rain water, very hot days and a freezing night (duvet plus all the extra blankets in the tent) The staff was very friendly and I enjoyed interacting with them (remember I travelled solo and this is better than talking to the lady from my GPS )

I met some forumites, some with and some without their yellow ribbons

As I am a very keen (although amateur) photographer I took a LOT of photos (3,546 to be exact – thank you digital ) and I will share some of these with you. Some are not too good but I will post them in any case to make a point.

My intention was to take out of every day a special moment and believe me I easily achieved this. The Kgalagadi guide book states (translated from the Afrikaans so might loose some effect)

The Kalahari will share itself only with those who seek it with a sincere heart….

Thank you for sharing yourself with me.

Day 1 Pretoria to KTC

Left home at 2:50 after a quick cup of coffee and two of my wife’s very nice rusks. Arrived in KTP after an uneventful, although long day (if you disregard getting lost in predawn darkness in Mafeking due to road works with no detour signposted or very difficult to see in the dark!!!!) Stopped at Ashkam to fill up with fuel and buy a few bags of their mean braai wood.

The evils of modern society have encroached on my beloved Kgalagadi….


And so did politics!!


At last the long awaited entrance gate.


After dropping of a box of magazine for KG for the camp attendants (sorry to have missed you Jannie), deflating tyres, phoning all at home and tying my yellow ribbon I was of. What anticipation, what will the first animal be that I see…. My wife’s favourite, a “gompou”


Choices, choices but now I first have to get to KTC to unpack


These springbuck tried to hide in the grass


The grass tickled the bellies of the Gemsbuck


This young man was so relaxed! He was right next to the road I could almost have touched him.

Spectacular clouds with some nice contrast against the tall grass.



The hyena den just south of Urikaruus almost always deliver.


At last I stopped in front of KTC reception at 17:50 to find no one there. Luckily Jan arrived a few minutes later and after the normal “information session” (and warnings against walking around in camp, who me? I am only going one place and that is to an nice bed) directed me to my tent (nr 14)

Especially for Micetta a photo of before the cows tucked into the grass



Day 2 KTC

Woke up during the night in the middle of a spectacular Kalahari thunder storm with the wind blowing the rain through the tent flaps. After closing the flaps I lay listening to the thunder and luckily very soon fell asleep again. I do not know what time it was as my watch did not deserve a holiday and was left at home. Got up at 6:15 and made myself a very nice (dare I say…) cup of coffee, sat outside and enjoyed the Kgalagadi sounds. Refilled the coffee, took some rusks and left for the first game drive. Saw lots of general game and some very nice birds. Water, water every where but luckily the roads were not too muddy.



What is that? Looks like the local giraffe AGM (in the slight drizzle)




Drove back to KTC for brunch but decided to first call at Mata Mata to pay for my sunset drive that KG booked for me. Imagine my disappointment when I arrived at reception to be met with a sign that stated unfortunately until further notice all activities at Mata Mata have been cancelled. No reason could be given. To think I added the two days at KTC just to do an activity to have this happen (yes …. happens!!) Enjoyed a cold beer at camp to “drown the sorrows” and made scrambled eggs with sausage.

After a relaxing time in camp reading (aka swotting …) my bird book, left on a late afternoon drive to Craig Lockhardt where I sat with my camera waiting for the action to happen. Lots of water in the veldt so the only real action was the variety of birds that visited. Unfortunately due to the long grass no nice photos. Could at least focus on the dead tree with the many male Shaft Tailed Whydahs putting up a show (and challenging my photographic capabilities). They are so quick! I tried to get a shot of him hovering above the female but need some further practise (and quicker reactions). Did manage to get a few photos of them on a branch.



Amazed by the number of vehicles turning in, slowing down and then speeding off again…. Did I also do that before I became addicted?

On the way to CL saw these butterflies enjoying the water in the road and showing of their beautiful colours.



Back at camp started my mutton potjie (on the stove as too late to make a fire), downloaded all the photos (683 in a day and a half, thank goodness for digital!) and worked on my TR. I decided the only way to do it was to do the daily text and add the photos later (hope it works). Some thunder clouds started to gather over Namibia, will it rain again?

(to be continued in a day or so, will be off line for a while)

Day 3 Kalahari Tented Camp to Urikaruus

I was again surprised to be woken by some thunder followed very soon by some serious rain. Even though I closed the tent flaps the water just poured into my tent (through the flaps, under the door and the central support pillar that did not seal well).



As I was moving to Urikaruus I decided to have a late start after a breakfast of cereal and yogurt. First drove to Mata Mata to fill up with fuel and wash the car’s windscreen. It was really wet after the rain of the night before and this time the roads were a bit soggy at certain spots.



Viewing still a bit challenging with the tall grass. Did meet up with the giraffes again. The one was tired and decided to have a bit of a rest (or was his legs just too short)?



This LBR caught himself a nice snack and after giving it a few pinches swallowed it without any problems.



Suddenly saw a lot of unhappy Cape Crows circling and making a hell of a noise. What can it be? A Cheetah, with radio collar (Elana or Lizette?? – between 14de and 13 de waterhole) on the ridge!!!



I followed her for about 20 minutes while she kept going parallel to the road. I noticed the radio collar and it was clear that she has not eaten for some time. She would stop every now and then and look back. Were there some cubs following? She eventually came down to the road and continued in the road.





A lone Springbuck ram was grazing in the riverbed and she was very interested in him. She used a gap in the grass formed by the grader to channel water off the road to leave the road and immediately went into stalking mode. The Springbuck ram soon became aware of something not being right and started looking for what it was. Game over as he spotted the Cheetah and trotted off down the river.

Stopped at all waterholes along the way and spotted this Forked Tail Drongo




Arrived at Urikaruus at midday. Before I left Pretoria I contacted central reservations in Pretoria and asked them how to book a specific cabin. They informed me that I should contact the specific camp 30 days before arrival to arrange. I phoned Twee Rivieren, sent a fax and phoned them again a week before arrival to ensure that I do not end up in cabin 4. The only problem with this specific cabin is the tree that partially obscures the view, especially from the bedroom. When I entered at 2R two days ago I again confirmed and was told it has been arranged. At arrival I was allocated cabin … yes you guessed it – no. 4!!

The camp attendant, Eric who was in Grootkolk during the veldt fire (we were there then) could not do anything about changing as the other guests checked in 5 minutes before me. Eric did tell me that I am lucky Dupel Erasmus the Tourism Manager was in camp and I should bring my problem to his attention. Dupel promised to follow up but the facts are the following (from the proverbial horse’s mouth). It is not policy and not allowed to pre-book specific cabins or huts. The only exception is for people with disabilities. I accept that but have often arrived first, asked for a specific cabin to be informed that guests, still to arrive, have requested that cabin. All I ask is that facts be made known and then all are treated equally. Dupel stated that he will follow up on it.

On a more positive note (I also phoned Nossob to request hut no. 1 in Grootkolk ) the bakkie (pick up) travelling to Nossob and then on to Grootkolk was also still at Urikaruus and the camp attendant on his way to Grootkolk, Franco was there. He ensured me (and asked Dupel to please close his ears) that he WILL keep me hut no. 1. Let us wait and see. All griping over but I wanted to state the facts.

Again went on a late afternoon short drive, only as far as Kamqua picnic spot and back. Just south of camp I came across this large herd of Blue Wildebeest



(they came for a drink at the camp waterhole about 2 hours after sunset.) Typical for Wildebeest there was a lot of running around but I hope most got to drink some water – too dark for photos.

The hide and seek game seems to be very popular in Kgalagadi this year.



even the road signs wanted to play....



After a short chat to Eric, started my Askham wood fire for the braai. Planning an early start to do the lower dune road then north to upper dune road and back to camp. Hope it will be a good day…..

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Day 4 Urikaruus

Left camp just after 7:00 on my planned lower and upper dune road, but what is a mind if you can’t have it changed for you ……

At Rooibrak I saw my neighbours (from Urikaruus, Michael and partner) parked, were they just enjoying the view or what? What is that under the trees opposite the waterhole ….?









Spent some time with the 3 young Lions, 2 confirmed as being males, 3rd probably also?! The 3 fooled around for some time until some Blue Wildebeest arrived at the waterhole. They immediately became interested but as the inexperience quickly showed they were spotted very quickly. The one male came down to investigate the taste of Japanese cars but very soon decided that it was not for him.



After spending some time with the Lions, continued to Monroe but as it was very quiet decided to return to camp. Just as well, fasten your seatbelts it is going to be a rough ride ....

After arriving at camp and giving Michael my kind neighbour from Bonn, Germany in the Japanese (bad tasting ….) car his “Lion” photo, relaxed on the veranda of my cabin (no. 4 with the tree partially obscuring the view …), reading my bird book again. What is that approaching the waterhole, oh my goodness another Cheetah! This one was not wearing radio collar.






(to be continued...)

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[ Post made via Mobile Device ]

Day 4 Urikaruus part 2

The Cheetah had a nice and long drink from the waterhole, unfortunately also partially obscured by the long grass. It (sex never determined) would every now and then sit up and check out the environment.



All of a sudden her total body tensed up, ears upright …. From the right a herd of Springbuck approached. Michael and I almost jumped up and down from excitement, can we be so lucky? The herd passed between the cabins and the waterhole (probably 10m from waterhole) as if they were not going to drink. (See if you can spot her behind the grass!!)



As almost half the herd was past the Cheetah in the long grass all hell broke loose. It happened so quickly that I battled to keep the action in the middle of the viewfinder. I just kept on pressing the shutter button on continuous shooting. All the photos are not in focus but at least you can see what happened. Needless to say the final kill took place; yes you guessed it, behind the tree



























I quickly popped over to my neighbours in unit 3 for the final few photos of her dragging it off to the tree at the bottom of the ridge opposite camp.



We were all shaking from excitement and can you believe it, all the guests were in camp and saw the action. Poor Eric, the camp attendant, was busy and missed all the action. At least we could show him some photos and Michael shot an excellent video (said he would put it on YouTube).

Lionspoon (and other interested parties) here is the video

http:/vimeo.com/23200443

Enjoy

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What an amazing sequence of pics!!!! I can imagine how you were shaking (I know that feeling well ) and they still came out perfectly!!!

Your video link wasn't right so I've fixed it up here!

Day 4 Urikaruus Part 3

After all the action I took a leisurely drive back to the lion at Rooibrak but they moved higher up the ridge and were passed out (must be from the taste of the Japanese car)

On my return to camp I checked the tree (to which the Cheetah dragged her kill) from my bedroom (higher) but could not spot the Cheetah. Did she/he moved the kill further away while we were comparing photos and videos? (Eric confirmed that she the next morning at +- 8:30 made her appearance from the shadow of the tree and came for another drink before walking of towards the south)

Woke up during the night with a hell of a racket on the roof!! I wondered what it was, then I heard the characteristic call of an owl and knew. It was full moon (almost..) and I sleep with the curtains open. As I was lying in bed waiting to fall asleep this huge owl (possibly a Verreaux's Eagle-Owl, as it was BIG) landed on the railing just outside my bed. Although I had my camera and flash on the bedside table it just did not feel right to spoil the moment with a blinding flash, so I rather just lay there watching it moving it’s head from side to side as it was trying to spot a snack. One of the real magic moments of this trip (and there were many)

@ Songodin, you are SO correct, after it all happened I asked myself where was my wife now? I have full detail on my equipment in a later post but this was taken with my Canon 7D and 70-200mm lense.

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Day 5 Urikaruus

Got up at 6:00, made coffee (yes and 1 rusk) and reported at Eric’s cabin for our early morning chat. He showed me the Hyena spoor in front of his cabin but no one have seen or heard anything during the night. Left at 7:00 for 2R to phone my phone my wife before she flies to the UK tonight.
Some of the things I met on the way,







Also had a very nice breakfast at the restaurant but could not connect to the internet to give you a quick update (laptop also on holiday). Met Lionspoon (who forgot her yellow ribbon!!) at the service station and we exchanged stories. She was aware (and very jealous) of the Cheetah kill at Urikaruus. (Eric radioed Willem who told them!!) News does travel fast.

On the way to 2R, +- 200m before Rooibrak found 3 Lions on the ridge, are they the same ones I saw yesterday?



Again saw some nice birds including this PCG





Returned to camp at 13:00, ready for any action, only to find a lone Springbuck ram at the waterhole.



All of a sudden he got up and looked a bit agitated … is the Cheetah returning? No only the large herd of Blue Wildebeest deciding to come for a drink during the day. As they came closer a bakkie charged into camp and stopped at Eric’s cabin. The occupants made such a noise that it spooked the Wildebeest.



Left later in the afternoon for a last drive towards Mata Mata and again saw some spectacular clouds and some nice birds. I missed an opportunity earlier today of a Secretary Bird that had just caught a lizard (facing the other way but in any case not a nice shot, but you can at least see the lizard). This one was hunting and stomping the ground all the time but no luck .... One day I will be ready.

Day 6 Urikaruus to Grootkolk

Set the alarm (cell phone) for really early to pack the car for a 7:00 departure. No spoor to discuss this morning so bid my goodbye to Eric and left at 7:00 on the dot. I decided as I would rather travel slower but shorter distance to take the upper dune road. As normal this road was fairly quiet but I did see some very skittish Jackal inspecting the road



Later came across the senior inspector checking this stretch of the upper dune road.



These beautiful Gems buck were relaxing at Morevet



Enjoyed my coffee (no rusks this time ), cereal and yogurt at Dikbaardskolk. On the way to Nossob a lot of Ostriches and even some babies in the road (I wonder if they were also going to Nossob)?



Along the way met Vlakvarkvrou and Mags and later Bostik Budgie and her SO, all displaying their yellow ribbons (take note Lionspoon). Had a short discussion with forumites in both vehicles. Always very nice to meet the faces behind the forumites.

Arrived at Nossob at 11:30, filled up with diesel, delivered Marius’s parcel from Eric, picked up Franco’s post and left at 12:00. On the way to Grootkolk only the normal Gemsbuck, Springbuck and Red Hartebeest. The more colourful flora of Kgalagadi also made the drive more interesting





At Kannagaus I found a tree full of vultures.






I was still busy taking my (many) photos when all of sudden there was a gust of wind and off they went.



I always wanted to get a vulture in flight but was unfortunately facing the wrong way (Murphy…) and by the time I turned the car around they were only specs in the sky, spiralling higher by the second, damn! But one day… Did manage to at least get a BIF



Just before Grootkolk I found these very active Ground Squirrels enjoying the water reservoir



this one even providing his own shade



At arrival at Grootkolk I was very thankful that Franco did manage to keep me tent no. 1. It is not only the closest to the waterhole but also the most private and you get the feeling as if you are all alone in the veldt. Unpacked everything (as I am staying for 4 nights) and set up the camera for action. Will I be lucky again? (Touareg, perhaps wishful thinking )

Franco asked if I could show him the Cheetah kill from Urikaruus (news does travel…). After doing so we spent some time exchanging sightings from Grootkolk. If only one of the things that he was telling me about will happen I will be very happy. Let us wait and see. As I had a long day driving to Grootkolk I decided to stay in camp for the rest of the day.

Grootkolk has some amazing sunsets but today the buildings clouds were spoiling the show, perhaps tomorrow??



Once I finished dinner (steak, smash and peas!!) I sat in the dark and watched the thunder on the horizon, almost surrounding us. Would it rain again tonight? Even before I fell asleep a humongous wind storm came up followed by a quick but heavy down pour. So much for the weather forecast (from 2R) no chance of rain for the next 7 days. Day 1 rain; next 6??

Day 7 Grootkolk

Left camp at 7:00 with my coffee and rusks and turned in the direction of Union’s End. I like sitting at that waterhole and practice my BIF photography (and get frustrated in the process)

Even before the cross road I had my first special moment for the day!!



On the way found some tracks in the road and decided to follow them. I am not too good with tracks but it looked like Leopards’. After about 500m the tracks disappeared into the bush. I arrived at Union’s End waterhole and decided, as it was still early and there was very little action, to drive to UE as it is not that far. Just round the corner what do I see……?

Some more tracks in the sand, although these are bigger. Obviously with great anticipation I once again decided to play detective and follow them. Just a short drive further there she is, in the road.



A lone Lioness. I slowly approached, stopping every now and then for a photo through the windscreen (as evidence for the family) in case she decides to move off. I eventually could move up until she was right next to me.





She was walking in the road, every now and then climbing the shoulder of the road and carefully checked around. A few times she looked very interested in something but then again returned to the road and continued.



Twice she stopped to smell something in the road, looks like growling or baring teeth and once even ate the sand. Was it another predator that she smelt?



She eventually spotted some BWB on the right hand side and moved off in their direction.



I later lost her but on my return from UE they were not there anymore (no she did not catch them all ). They probably moved on of own accord or with some help of a hungry Lioness. The grass was too tall and I could not see if she managed to catch breakfast.

I was disappointed to see that someone (Sanparks or spiteful individuals?) removed all the photos and information from the display area. All that I found was my own reflections … (which are not so goooood)!





Stopped on the way back at UE waterhole for my challenge with the Namaqua Sandgrouse. I got lots of shots of them “loading” themselves with water for the trip back but wanted a departure or arrival photo.





Some was a near hit



Sometimes the camera technique not too good (or let us say camera too slow)



In the mean time practised on some doves, but I wanted a NSG……



Gotcha….



After the umpteenth try but I just did not want to give up. I used a bean bag for this but will tomorrow rig up my Badger car support and Wimberley…

After brunch started my daily download and backup of photos and updating my TR (take note Dreamer ). It is so pleasant now that Sanparks have added shade netting over the kitchen and stoep area. Franco is running the generator to charge the batteries as it is slightly overcast. It disturbs the peace somewhat but we all want lights at night (do we??)

tbc......

Day 7 Grootkolk Part 2

I always want to know when reading other TR’s about the equipment being used. Here is some info on the equipment I use. I have a Canon 7D (x2) with Canon 500mm f4.0 IS, Canon 70 – 200mm f2.8 ll and Canon 24 – 105mm f4.0 lenses. When necessary I add a Canon 1.4x lll converter. With this equipment the only reason for bad photos (and there are many) is the operator and that unfortunately is ME.

After some reading, waiting for interesting visitors to the waterhole (no luck). Franco asked me if I can take him to the water tanks on the hill. The grass is currently so tall and it is just safer to drive there. I obviously agreed …. He said I should bring my camera along as there is a pair of Barn Owls breeding in the tank enclosure. The one would fly off and the other would fly to the closest tree (he even indicated the branch). It happened as he said and here she is.



Unfortunately we did not have a torch as he said he is sure he heard some chicks up there. (The tanks are in an enclosure with a roof over).

As Kannagaus has no water at the moment I decided to return to UE for my afternoon drive. Contrary to the weather forecast, the clouds were building again. Although it presents nice photo opportunities I was worried about the outside kitchen and dinner.




At Geinab waterhole I found this White Stork and spent quite some time (in the sun) with this bird while it was cleaning itself and hunting goggos in the muddy water in the road.






There was very little happening at UE waterhole, just some Gemsbuck that ran off as I approached. On the way back I saw this Lioness and some cubs in the tall grass, but far off so not a good photo.



Made it back to camp, warmed up some delicious chicken that my dear wife pre-cooked for me. I just added fresh veggies (marrow and pumpkin) that I brought along. So far it would appear as if the rain will stay away tonight. Sitting outside at Grootkolk typing this and swatting mozzies and other irritating flying creatures. If it gets any worse I will move inside. Will we tonight have visitors at the waterhole or even in camp??