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Late afternoon, we took a shorter walk down to the river to some potholes, passing fairly close to a few hippos. We stopped to watch the sun go down with a few beers. Steve and I spent a bit of time trying to sort out the swallows, and a couple of distant Klippspringers could be seen prancing about on the rocks. As we arrived back in camp, Steve tried to attract the attention of a Pearl Spotted Owlet by imitating its call. Unfortunately I think the bird might have been deaf, as we didn’t see it.


PA144001Dwarf Mongoose by kittykat23uk, on Flickr
walking trails 167 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450666 Crested Francolin by kittykat23uk, on Flickr



jo oliphants trail 144 Brubru by kittykat23uk, on Flickr




jo oliphants trail 147 Tawny-flanked Prinia by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450701 Green (Redbilled) Wood Hoopoe by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450709 potholes by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

We had a nice meal and as we ate we could see some spotlights in the distance. This turned out to be a group of scientists studying the crocodiles. We were hoping that the researchers would come into camp one evening to tell us about the work they are doing to try and save the crocodiles on the river. Crocs here are in trouble because they are afflicted by a disease that hardens their body fat which means they can’t move and so starve to death. The current theory is that this is caused by the river back flowing because of a dam in Mozambique and the pollution from industrial activity further upstream. Sadly, there seems to be no easy solution to the problem and, unfortunately, the scientists didn’t make it over to our side of the river.


P1450734 Goliath heron by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450748 Steve shows a catfish skull by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450751 The Horn Moth Ceratophaga vastella, one of the few creatures capable of digesting keratin. The protuberances on the horns are the cemented faecal pellets of the larvae. They built their protective cases, in other words, from their own faeces. by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

15th October Rain stops play (temporarily)

We were awoken again at 4.30 but the weather did not look promising as a front had swept in and it was already threatening to rain. Helen was also not feeling too well and decided to give the walk a miss, which turned out to be a sound decision. Just as we arrived at the starting point, the wind whipped up and it started to rain. So the decision was taken to abandon the walk. Steve and Michael struggled to affix the canvas windows to the vehicle and in hindsight it probably would have been quicker to just drive back to camp.

Arriving back at camp, we met up with Helen who, feeling a bit vulnerable with no one else around camp, had decided to wait on the veranda of our tent. While we waited out the worst of the weather, the lads cooked us a hearty breakfast and I spent the time birding around the camp. One really unexpected sighting was that of a Cape Clawless Otter running along the bank on the other side of the river. Before anyone else had a chance to see it, it slipped into the water and headed off downstream. Later on, a Green Wood Hoopoe was feeding a single fledgling chick.


jo oliphants trail 158 White-throated Robin-chat by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


jo oliphants trail 170 Cardinal Woodpecker by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


jo oliphants trail 172 Yellow-bellied Greenbul (Bulbul) by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450783 Red-billed Hornbill by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450800 Hippos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Happy Hippos
By 11.00 the weather had improved enough for us to go out. We walked along the river which, although it was a shorter walk, was much more strenuous than the relatively flat plain that we walked the day before. It was well worth it though when we came upon a huge pod of over 60 hippos. Jumping up onto some nearby rocks, we watched with awe at the mass of grunting faces, churning up the water as they jostled with each other, yawning with displeasure and showing their great big maws. A Nile Crocodile approached the perimeter of the group but was quickly made to feel unwelcome. A lone elephant could be seen further away but caught wind of us before we could approach more closely and scaled the bank of the river in an effort to put some distance between him and us.

The walk back over the top of the ridge, up and down the dried river beds was fairly strenuous but rewarding, as we saw some new birds including Square-tailed Nightjar and Double-banded Sandgrouse. I had to stop Steve from taking a potshot at a Scrub Hare that we had flushed from cover. A Klippspringer also darted away as we approached. In one dried up riverbed we came across an army of Mutabele Ants. These large black ants look quite formidable as they marched out in huge columns to seek new sources of food and shelter. Someone also kicked over a stone as they were walking ahead and a large Black Rock Scorpion was exposed.


P1450829 Hippos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450838 Hippos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450844 Hippos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450869 Giraffe bone by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450874 Mutabele Ants by kittykat23uk, on Flickr
P1450887 Black Rock Scorpion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr
P1450894 Fledgeling Green (Redbilled) Wood Hoopoe by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

An enjoyable evening with elephants
Later on, we returned to the area to have a sundowner and were treated to the sight of a herd of elephants, which we were able to approach fairly closely. We watched as one was having a good scratch up against a fallen tree. Another gave itself a dust bath. A family group crossed the river up ahead of us, and one adventurous elephant even made its way towards us. A natural gully in the side of the riverbed between us, which the elephant seemed reluctant to cross, prevented it from getting too close.

When we arrived back in camp, the Green Wood Hoopoes were feeding their baby closer to the fence. It was fascinating to watch because not only were there presumably the two parents, but there were also a couple of other adults that were bringing food to the chick as well.


P1450899 Green (red-billed) wood Hoopoe and young by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450906 Green (red-billed) wood Hoopoe and young by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450916 Beetle by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450927 African Elephants by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450932 African Elephants by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


P1450939 African Elephants by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

16th October Olifants camp to Satara via Letaba


We were awoken at the usual time but had a fairly leisurely start in comparison, with a full cooked breakfast before leaving camp. After breakfast we had time to watch a Giant Kingfisher walloping a fish on a tree branch next to the viewing deck and then trying to swallow it, which, given the size of the fish was quite a feat, even for this substantial bird. I also managed to coax one of the little five, an ant lion, from its burrow, something that Steve was quite impressed by, since he’d tried several times over the previous day to get one to show us.


jo oliphants trail 190 Giant Kingfisher by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


jo oliphants trail 181Antlion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


jo oliphants trail 182 Yellow-billed Hornbill by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


jo oliphants trail 183 Yellow-billed Hornbill by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

On our way back to Letaba in addition to the usual game, a Klippspringer posed for the camera. Then a bit further on a beautiful Black-backed Jackal crossed the road in front of us. The vehicle was then brought to a screaming halt as Helen shouted that she’d just seen two hyena by the side of the road. We reversed and sure enough two hyenas we watching us pull up next to them. Steve said that they might have a den nearby. Deciding they didn’t appreciate the attention, they loped off into thicker cover. Lots of people dislike hyenas with those wiry coats and heads that look too small for their stocky frames but I think they are fascinating creatures.


jo oliphants trail 193 Klippspringer by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


jo oliphants trail 194 Klippspringer by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 010 Southern Giraffe by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 015 Burchell's Zebra by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 029 Black-backed Jackal by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 046 Saddle-billed Sork by kittykat23uk, on Flickr
oli to satara 053 African Elephants by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 065 Spotted Hyena by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 068 Spotted Hyena by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Thank you Pumba! It was a pretty amazing trip that's for sure. Shall we continue on?

Bird list for Letaba/Olifants:

Southern Ground Hornbill
Saddle-billed Stork
Yellow-billed Stork
Grey Heron
Goliath Heron
Little Green Heron
Black-crowned Night Heron
Hadeda Ibis
African Darter
Bank Cormorant
White-breasted Cormorant
Egyptian Goose
White-backed Vulture
African Fish Eagle
African Hawk Eagle
Tawny Eagle
Whalberg’s Eagle
Bateleur Eagle
Yellow-billed Kite
Swainson’s Spurfowl
Crested Francolin
Doube-collared Sandgrouse
Kori Bustard
Red-crested Korhaan
Blacksmith Plover
Crowned Lapwing
White-crowned Plover
Greenshank
Common Sandpiper
Spotted Thicknee
Water Dikkop
Emerald Spotted Wood Dove
Square-tailed Nightjar
Brown-headed Parrot
Grey Go-away Bird
Burchell’s Coucal
African Scops Owl
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater
Little Green Bee-eater
White-fronted Bee-eater
Green Wood Hoopoe (Red-Billed Wood Hoopoe)
Giant Kingfisher
Southern Ground Hornbill
Lilac-breasted Roller
Yellow-billed Hornbill
Red-billed Hornbill
Grey Hornbill
Crested Barbet
Acacia Pied Barbet
Cardinal Woodpecker
Sabota Lark
Fork-tailed Drongo
Pied Crow
Yellow-bellied Greenbul
Dark-capped Bulbul
Terrestrial Brownbul
Groundscraper Thrush
White-throated Robin-chat
Mocking Cliff-chat
Brubru
Greater Blue-eared Starling
Red-winged Starling
Wattled Starling
Red-billed Oxpecker
House Sparrow
Melba Finch (Green-winged Pytilla)
Blue Waxbill
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Wire-tailed Swallow
Lesser Striped Swallow
Barn Swallow

Mammal list Phalaborwa to Letaba and on the Olifants trail:
Cape Buffalo (Huge herd) PB
Burchell’s Zebra PB
Greater Kudu All
Southern Giraffe All
Leopard LT
Cape Clawless Otter OL
Black Backed Jackal (on way back to Letaba 16th)
Spotted Hyena (on way back to Letaba 16th)
Klippspringer OL
Scrub Hare OL
Dwarf Mongoose OL
Waterbuck All
Bushbuck LT
Steenbok All
Impala All
Elephants All
Hippos All

Other:
Nile Crocodile
Gecko sp
Lizard sp

Black rock scorpion
Whip scorpion (in WC at camp)
Mutabele ants
Antlion


oli to satara 080 Spotted Hyena by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 081 Spotted Hyena by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 087 Yellow-billed Kite by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 103 White-backed Vulture by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Onwards to Satara

After saying our goodbyes to Steve and Michael and the other tour participants we left Letaba behind and followed Wilma’s suggestion of taking the dirt roads along the river. We saw a fair amount of game and a few new birds including Martial Eagle, and Black-headed Oriole.


oli to satara 109 Impala by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 112 Fork-tailed Drongo by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 114 Waterbuck by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 119 Martial Eagle by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 121Nile Crocodile by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 127 Black-headed Oriole by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

The best sighting was of a Black-backed Jackal fighting a flock of vultures over a carcass. There were several different species of vulture on the carcass including White-backed, Cape, Hooded and Lappet-faced. The Jackal was tearing off chunks of meat and wolfing them down until at times the vultures would pile in on top of the carcass and the jackal would then snarl and leap at the vultures snapping his jaws, forcing the birds to back off. We watched this scene for quite a while until the jackal had his fill and trotted off.


oli to satara 133 Wildebeest by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 137 Burchell's Zebra by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 139 Burchell's Zebra by kittykat23uk, on Flickr



oli to satara 140 Burchell's Zebra by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 150 Kori Bustard by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 152 White Headed Vulture by kittykat23uk, on Flickr
oli to satara 162 Steenbok Buck scent marking by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 199 Black Backed Jackal and vultures on carcass by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

We checked into our accommodation at Satara, which was one of the en suite rondavels. We’d picked one with no utensils but we had our own braii pit so that was okay. The small shared kitchens are equipped with hot water and four hob rings per unit along with kitchen sinks, although we found it more convenient to use the bathroom sink. We had a spot of lunch and a relax, then headed out again at about 15.00.

In the afternoon, we found a lone Slender Mongoose and then we came across four White Rhinos at a waterhole. They seemed quite happy having a drink until a lone elephant appeared and quickly approached the water. The rhinos seemed unnerved by this and started to trot away towards the vehicles parked along the bank. Not wanting to risk it, Helen started the car and began to pull away, however, the rhinos soon settled back down again once they’d put a bit of distance between them and the elephant.

As we drove away from the waterhole we were flagged down by a fellow yellow ribboner, Wendy A. The yellow ribbon that you fly from your car indicates that you are a member of the Sanparks forum, a nice bunch of people who are always happy to put you onto sightings and make new friends in the process. Wendy helped us out with a travel kettle and we agreed to meet up for a drink before our night drive the next day.

Towards the end of the day, we came across a family of Dwarf Mongooses. As we returned to camp we saw a hyena patrolling the fence just by the entrance. I was hoping to see a honey badger but unfortunately none came calling that night.


oli to satara 214 Slender Mongoose by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 215 White Rhinos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 221White Rhinos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 223 White Rhinos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


oli to satara 224 White Rhinos by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 001 Elephant by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

17th October Satara
We were probably out of the gate by about 6am. The day started well with another beautiful Black-backed Jackal this time carrying a dead porcupine. Wendy had suggested a route to us, knowing that we hadn’t yet seen any lions, so we tried that but we were not so lucky. We stopped at a river crossing to watch a Black Crake and then carried on until we came across a party of baboons that were crossing the road in front of us, so we watched their antics for a while. A Red-crested Korhaan was calling from the roadside, but didn’t see fit to give us a display flight this time.


satara 16 - 18 012 Black-back Jackal Carrying Porcupine by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 023 Black Crake by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 025 Baboon by kittykat23uk, on Flickr



satara 16 - 18 027 Baboon by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

satara 16 - 18 031red-crested Korhaan by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 032 Lilac-breasted Roller by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 039 Burchell's zebras by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 044 African Scops Owl by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 047 African Grey Hornbill by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 048 Burchell's Starling by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Kittykat, your pics are fantastic WOW, such an amazing walk, it must have been a wonderful experience with all these sighting. The scorpion is soooo huge and I believe it was a very scary moment, when you thought that poachers were coming towards you.

Thanks! Yes it was a bit worrying! Thankfully it was a false alarm. and noone got .

There were also a few Vervet Monkeys around. We had our lunch back at our rondavel, but had to watch our food like a hawk because we were quickly surrounded by little feathered thieves. It was like something out of a Hitchcock film with Crested Barbets, Greater Blue-eared Starlings, Red-billed Buffalo Weavers, Grey, Red-billed and Yellow-billed hornbills all trying to steal a piece of our meal. The only bird that seemed happy enough to forage for its own lunch was an African Hoopoe.

That afternoon we came across a herd of elephants all crowded together in the shade of a single tree. We returned to the waterhole where we’d seen the rhinos earlier, but it was now very quiet. A Slender Mongoose and Brown Snake-Eagle were the highlights of the otherwise rather quiet afternoon.

Back at camp, we met up with Wendy A for a couple of drinks over dinner, before heading out again for out night drive. Lions had been seen on night drives for the previous two nights, so, having still not seen any, we were hopeful that this might be our chance. We had a mixed group, but one of the South Africans seemed to object to the lamping technique of some of the other participants, complaining that with the way they were throwing the lights around we wouldn’t see a thing. Our first good sighting was of a white rhino; then we caught sight of a distant Spotted Hyena. Quite a few different antelope were seen, including Impala, Kudu, Bush Duiker and Steenbok. There were also sightings of Buffalo and Giraffe. We stopped for another antelope, which turned out to be a Reedbuck, a new one for the list. A few Scrub Hares could be found by the side of the road and a Black-backed Jackal was seen trotting down the road in front of us towards the end of the drive. Sadly, we didn’t see any lions.

On arriving back I waited outside for a while in the hope of seeing the honey badgers, but none appeared. I could hear lions roaring in the distance and the eerie “whoo-oop” calls of the hyenas. Then as I was getting into bed, I heard the most horrifyling blood-curdling scream from some animal, which left me wondering if the lions or hyenas had made a kill just outside of camp.


satara 16 - 18 051African Hoopoe by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 053 Yellow-fronted canary by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 061 African Elephant by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 063 Slender Mongoose by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 075 Brown Snake-eagle by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

18th October Satara

I awoke to disappointment; the honey badgers had visited our circle during the night! Evidence of their visit could be seen in the way that every single bin had been knocked over in the same direction as the badgers had been foraging around our circuit.

We took the H-7 road to Orpen, as Wendy mentioned she’d seen some dogs in the vicinity. We weren’t so lucky. We stopped first at the waterhole where we’d seen the rhinos the day before. This time there were no rhinos, but a lot of animals were coming to quench their thirst. First we saw a large herd of Impala, as they dispersed, zebra started to appear. They were more skittish and drank from a small pool further back. After they started to leave a few Wildebeest came down for their turn. A few warthogs were grubbing about at the back of the waterhole. Four Brown-headed Parrots dropped in to some close-by bushes to feed and a Grey Heron was making a meal of trying to swallow a large catfish further away.

Later we came across a White Rhino with a very young calf, but she turned and ushered the calf away into the thornveld before we had a chance to photograph the encounter. An African Hawk Eagle was seen circling over some riverine forest. We then came up behind a safari truck and followed it for a while. We were both stopped by a giraffe crossing the road. Later on, it was an elephant crossing the road to join a small herd to the right. Just on the road, in front of us, in direct contrast to the lumbering giant behind, was a tiny dwarf mongoose.



satara 16 - 18 081Souhern Giraffe by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 113 Brown-headed Parrot by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 124 African Hawk-eagle by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 134 Little and Large Dwarf Mongoose and African Elephant by kittykat23uk, on Flickr


satara 16 - 18 137 African Elephants by kittykat23uk, on Flickr