SANParks.org Forums

Today is the most incredible day in the lives of South Africans - whether soccer supporters or not - just one heavy black cloud hangs over the Mandela family and my love and condolences go out to them.
Now what’s my problem....
Somehow or other I lost or gained a day - I am not sure which - but we are leaving at sparrows on Saturday morning and I haven’t packed. The question is - do I watch the opening ceremony and the biggest game of the tournament or do I pack and miss out on history being made. Or do I invest in matches to prop my eyes open and do both.
I have an hour or two to think about it - and should you be interested - I should be back in about 12 or so days to let you know how my days play out...

eeeeeish - shame on me Tankwe??? Lets give it another bash...

Talk about doing two things at once. Opening game. Open suitcases and boxes. Finally both were completed and hopefully all the essentials had been packed. Being lodgies rather than campers, things were simplified. Additional spare wheel thrown on the back, water tank filled and bags and baggage loaded. We were finally organized to hit the road.
Before sun up the final chores were completed and last minute items packed. Stress was being blown away like cobwebs by the early morning breeze through the open windows, as we bombed down the high way. (Darn madness on a winters morn!)

Our first stop over was at Gariep Dam. Having left early we arrived midday – in time to spend a relaxing afternoon followed by a good nights sleep, before heading for the Karoo National Park the next morning.
After a late-ish start we were once again speeding along towards our overnight lodgings.
The hours were interspersed with heavy cloud, rain and dribbles of Sun. It wasn’t long before we were greeted by a smiling face at the gates of the Karoo National Park.
It has been a few years since we visited and one thing that hasn’t changed is the wonderful greeting you receive – not only at the gate but at reception as well. The smiles could brighten up the dullest day.



Our first animals were some zebra sheltering from the strong winds. These were soon followed by red hartebeest, kudu, springbok and the inevitable ostrich.



The new electric fences are unobtrusive and do not mar the beautiful surroundings.
Although, I couldn’t help thinking that any self respecting lion could jump the fence without much effort!

Essentials off-loaded. Cup of coffee drunk and we were off on our game drive. The freezing cold and low clouds tried hard to destroy our bight mood – but to no avail.
We were soon rewarded by the most magnificent aerial display by the Black Eagles. Surfing the thermals they soared and danced across the grey skies. Finally with a perfect dive they bowed out of our view.
Arriving back at our chalet it was time for a hot cup of chocolate and some extra layers of clothing.
The Sun settled down for the night but without her protection the banshees were let loose from the surrounding koppies.
Whilst the baboon screamed in protest, the banshees’ icy tongues poked and probed at the keyhole as its arctic fingers rattled and shook the window frames, seeking a way in. The smallest crack or cranny was howled or whistled through in frustration and protest at the warmth within.

Early(ish) morning and the wind had not given up its quest to invade our warm chalet. Wrapped up in layers of clothing, we waddled to the car to pack the few items we had needed for the night.
The wind helped us perform the walk from the chalet in double time – but heading in the opposite direction was not so easy. Bent over like geriatric gnomes we fought our way down the pathway to ensure nothing had been left behind.
Deciding driving would be preferably to being blown down for breakfast we fired up the engines for our extremely short hop to our next destination – reception!



I always regret that neither one of us is a breakfast person. Karoo always provides superb fare in the mornings.
Hubby fetched the coffee and fruit juice and I offered to make some toast. Examining the space age toaster - two slices of toast unexpectedly popped out the bottom. Not being very with it at that time of the morning - I loaded the toast onto plates before I realized I hadn’t put any bread in to start with! Highly embarrassed, I had to apologies profusely to the family sitting next to us for stealing their toast. Alls well that ends well – and my theft caused laughter all round.
Not sure of the best route to Tankwa, I asked at reception if they could advise us. Without hesitation a phone call was made to Tankwa. With a lot of humour about Bentley’s and Ferrari’s it was decided that my Hilux could cope with the Onder Karoo route.
With directions and full bellies we were soon on the road again.
Very little animal life was spotted on the road to the gate – everything was seeking shelter from the wind.



Brilliant blue sky with vivid white clouds watched us head for the horizon. Little did we know these deceptive clouds were hiding their ominous side behind their bright façade.
We stopped for petrol – and for the first time on this trip the petrol jockey managed to fill both our tanks – on all our previous stops the attendants never managed this operation. What a relief – as we now had enough fuel for the next few days.
Without us noticing, the dark storm clouds built up behind us. When they had stored enough anger – they let their temper tears pour down on the road and the country side.
Thank heavens for heaters in cars!
Heading towards Sutherland we spotted the Onder Karoo turn-off – which was to be our route. Our speed was reduced drastically as we no longer had tar under our wheels but extremely slippery dirt roads. The bright blue had completely vanished from the heavens and the Sun had given up on the day. .
Then - Horror of horrors – we arrived at an intersection and there were no signboards to Tankwa – which we had been told we could follow!

One thing I wish to make very clear – GPS (general purpose spouse) and I never get lost! We always follow the scenic route should we wander off course.
Turning to Utur (our electronic GPS - so named because of her fondness for U turns) for advice we noticed she was in agreement with our decision to turn right.
With the back wheels competing with the front wheels of who could go faster we slithered and slid our way across cattle grids and humps and bumps until we safely negotiated our way back to the tar road that we had rejected earlier.
A second Onder Karoo sign – and more important - the sign for Tankwa. The scenic route having added a few extra kilometers to our trip, we debated heading for Sutherland to top up – not only our petrol tanks – but our bodies as well.
With the weather deteriorating the additional mileage of a round trip to Sutherland and back did not seem a good idea. We decided to forgo the lure of hot coffee and carry on without another detour.
In high spirits we skimmed along the muddy brown roads enjoying the beauty that was on offer, even if it was veiled by a curtain of rain.
Rain drops became interspersed with sleet creating diminutive pictures on the windscreen. Smeared into miniature rivers of mud and slush as the windscreen wipers swished backwards and forwards in futile attempts at keeping the windscreen clean and clear.
Bouncing around, hanging onto the “Jesus” bar for dear life – I had to P. Now I mean P with a huge capital P.
There was no chance of me exposing any part of my fragile frame (even if it is covered in a layer of blubber) to the elements. I was positive I was going to overflow or leak at any moment. Hubby searching for a bit of shelter out the corner of his eye. Me praying for the rain to let up, even for a few moments. After forever and being vibrated and bounced around like a bag of potatoes the rain eased to a drizzle. Slowly coming to a halt – I flew out of the car to find some shelter behind one of the wheels – any wheel! How I envy men at times like this.
Once the floodgates opened – there was no stopping them. Desperate to get back into the warmth of the car it seemed like I was going to be flowing behind the wheel for the rest of the day!
Then I heard the howl – the wind whipped up out of nowhere. I ran to the door. – Pants round my ankles… No dignity! The wind lifted me up and deposited me back on the seat just as the heavens opened.
Feeling 110 pounds lighter and very relieved I was back in the warm car we were once again bouncing around as we slid and slithered towards Tankwa.
Another intersection – another Tankwa sign – we were definitely heading in the right direction.
Telephone poles lined the road – signs of humanity and civilization!

Reception was now in sight. Having waltzed and skated our way towards Tankwa, it was good to have our feet on solid ground.
Once again we were greeted by a sunny smile and a cheery hello. Sanparks can be extremely proud of the people that are employed by them.
Once all formalities had been finalized, wood bought we once again braved the ice rink to get to our cottage.
We had been told the 4x4 route was not hectic off roading, so we decided to get off the mud and give the rocks a chance. We bumped and bounced away across the koppie and pulled up outside our home for the next few nights.
The rain had gentled but the cold had taken over. It didn’t take long to get the car unpacked and luggage inside. Then the heavens opened – once again.
Hungry cold and damp we set the kettle to boil when we noticed it was covered in brown slush. On further investigation we realized it was mud!
Looking around for candles and lamps we noticed that the cottage was leaking like a sieve. The bed was soaked and so cold it was starting to freeze. Mad dash to get camera’s and clothes out of harms way.
Cold, wet and hungry we were both feeling rather despondent. Fortunately from the moment I walked in (after having jammed the key in the door) a spark had been lit in my heart. I knew that this was going to be the start of a love affair.
Now all relationships have good and bad moments – but the love bug had bitten hard enough that I could over look the cold shoulder I was being given.
A hot shower followed by a good meal and a glass – perhaps glasses would be more accurate – of good old Obies, a fire burning in the grate, we were as content as two slugs under a leaf.



An early night was called for. Replacing the wet duvet with a dry one and covering the wet spot on the mattress with a couple of towels I was soon lost in dream land. I left hubby muttering by the fire with his inevitably cup of coffee.



After a wonderful, dreamless sleep, I woke up the next morning to the most wonderful experience.

What a pleasure not to have to feel guilty at still being in bed at 6h30 in the morning. Admittedly with the Sun just starting to yawn and stretch, it does feel likes it’s a lot earlier.



From the comfort and warmth of my bed I watched the gentle changing of colours across the mountains. A small bird flittered across the front of the window with a cheerful song. During the night natures confectioners had been at work. The mountains had been beautifully iced with a smooth unblemished layer of snow.
Embalming myself in layers of clothing, I went outside to watch in awe as the morning unfolded.



The painting of the day was taking place in front of me. Different layers of colours were splashed across the sky, creating a more and more beautiful tapestry as the Sun rose higher and higher.



Jack Frost had also been at work – using our car as his canvas. Delicate leaves and twirls of frost sculptured on the windscreen and bonnet.




How wonderful it was to stand and watch this painting being created in front of me. How glorious to hear a choir of birds with jackal harmonizing in the background filter through the cold morning air.
Hubby had surfaced and we decided to spend the morning at the chalet. We had done a lot of driving the previous days and the Sun was offering her rays in a warm welcome mat across the front of the chalet. One of the advantages of Tankwa is there is no pressure to drive – you are surrounded by bird life and beauty – right on your door step.



A small mongoose popped up on a rock and with a quick look disappeared into the small bushes. Puff ball birds sat with feathered fluffed against the cold – singing for their breakfast. The Chinese lantern birds flittered from tree to tree - not sitting around before streaking off to the next succulent flower.
After a late, late breakfast we headed to the car to take a drive up into the snow covered mountains.

The next few hours may not be to the taste of our friends who have to shovel snow and deal with icy winters – but for a Saffie who experiences snow less often than spotting a leopard – this was the ultimate best and snow - a bonus for a winter trip!

The first few kilometers the corrugations had taken over from the slipping and sliding of the previous days. Imagine - people pay a fortune to be vibrated and shaken around like this at slimming salons and I was getting it free of charge!
On our way to the Gannaga Pass we decided we may as well put petrol in to save us stopping on our way our back to Karoo NP. We had two options – Middlepos or Sutherland – enough about unimportant details – for now.





We wended our way higher and higher. Each turn and curve in the road was a revelation. The flowers, the shrubs the panoramic views, what more could we ask for?



Slowly the evidence of the cold was making itself known.
A small branch lay glued in the ice. The trees were covered in white blossoms of snow.



The tracks in the snow were becoming more and more slippery. Neither of us was saying much as Hubby was concentrating on keeping the car on the road and I was oohing and aaahing at the magnificent landscapes nature had created.

We reached a look out and someone had built a little snow animal on the signboard wall. I hopped out the car to take some pics – and hopped back in very quickly. The warmth of the car seeped into my chilled bones. I attempted to wrap my scarf round my neck and woe was me – I had slammed it in the door and it was now covered in ice, slush and mud..

Finally the winter wonderland was revealed to us in all her glory. The white landscape marred only by the car tracks in front of us and the disgruntled baboons. Poor things – they looked like prehistoric men as they muttered their way across the fields to the more welcoming side of the mountain.



As we were so close to Middlepos we decided to fill up. The road took every ounce of concentration hubby had. A couple of times we slipped out of the tracks we were trying to drive in and did a beautiful sideways glide before regaining our footing.
We passed beyond the Tankwa border – and glided our way through the mud towards town. Finally signs of life not much – but life. Two lonely petrol pumps stood proudly on the side of the road without human companions.
At the hotel we found a friendly young man who could assist. He accompanied us back to the petrol pumps – Slapping his hand against his head – he shrugged and said “no electricity – sorry I forgot’
No electricity - no means of getting petrol. No hand pump – probably just as well as between the two tanks 150 litres can be carried. The last time we ‘hand filled’ her was in KTP – and then we only put in a few litres to get to a place with electricity. Not being too concerned as we still had half a tank we decided not to travel to Sutherland. Wise move!!

Back we went over the mountain. The little snow animal had lost its head – so boys being boys – hubby decided to give it a new identity – I think it looked just like Alf/Elf (here I go with my A’s and E’s again) – the TV space creature that caused havoc in the family home. Did he live in the garage or basement –can’t remember.



Heading back to the chalet we detoured passed reception to ask about electricity in Calvinia. This is when we discovered if we had decided to carry on to Sutherland we would have had something like a 300 k detour. All the passes were closed due to the snow. Pheeeew – so glad we made the choice we did.
Then one wheel started emulated a teeny weensy vuvuzela! It was rather annoying. The sound would come and go in time to the revolution of the wheels. There was so much mud and muck stuck all over the car – including the wheels we hoped it was nothing serious and would work itself out.
The little puff ball birds were very excited to see us when we arrived ‘home’– even if they did chirp the odds that we hadn’t left them any food! The Chinese lantern birds still tormented me by not sitting still long enough for me to attempt a picture.
As night closed in day pulled her beautiful pink curtains across her mountains as she started fading away.

Another roaring fire – another wonderful hot shower - another good meal – another few glasses of Obies – another wonderful night ensconced in my new lovers embrace.

Saw this - and wasn't sure where to post so popped it on here...

Knew I had selected the coldest week of the year

https://www.wildcard.co.za/blog.htm?act ... st&id=1440" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Watching the darkness through the bedroom window, I noticed a tongue of red across the mountains. Instinct told me that this days awaking was going to be spectacular. Grabbing fingerless gloves scarf and beanie I sneaked out the bedroom – camera in hand.



It is mornings like this I wish I was an artist. How wonderful in would be to capture the unfolding day in all its vibrant colours on canvas!



Being just a happy snapper I did what I could with my faithful camera.
A cup of coffee in hand I sat and watched the beauty develop all around me.
Magical moments in a magical place.




Finally the Sun was fully awake, as was hubby, and after some more hot coffee we set off to explore the other side of Tankwa.



We slowly bumped down the roads watching the early birds flitter and soar above us. We headed towards Blink Vley Vlakte. The vegetation and landscape changed as we crossed over the mountains down onto the plains.
A majestic Gemsbok stood watching us with extreme alertness. We stopped well out of his fight or flight range to enjoy the moment. Then we heard a car – and it was not going slowly! The road is just wide enough for a single car and here was someone coming way to fast for the condition of the roads and more importantly the safety of the animals
The gemsbok head shot up and he took off. It looked as if the drive of the oncoming car had not even seen the animal. My blood was starting to boil. Car and gemsbok were on a collision course!
Fortunately the animal swerved and disappeared up the mountain slope.



The oncoming vehicle made no effort to slow or give us room to move off the road – not that we made much effort to move! He eventually realized if he didn’t stop or slow down he was going to hit us head on.
We reversed until we managed to find a place to pull half off the road. The driver of the other car, with a big smile on his face, opened his window and looked as if he wanted to chat. We ignored him and drove off without acknowledging his presence. He did at least say thank you!
I was fuming. Steam was coming out of my ears and nose! I was muttering away in a language that is not suitable for a family forum. I knew that unless hubby and I put the episode behind us – we would ruin our own day.
The roads were getting very muddy. Long strips of mud roads greeted us around a couple of bends and corners. At one point the mud was definitely winning the fight between wheel and road. The tires were now more mud than tread and we decided we had better take the chicken run and get ourselves out of a sticky situation.
Back on harder roads we were entertained by a black back jackal going about his daily business but at the same time making sure he was moving in the opposite direction to these intruders on his turf.
Every moment was filled with birds doing what birds do and changes of scenery as we wandered along the lonely tracks.
Time had caught up with us and we had to head for our cottage.



I now understood that I had definitely not allowed enough time to explore – another five nights at least would be required!
A movement spotted on the side of the road. Hubby came to a slow stop. Two bat eared foxes were standing watching us. These nervous little creatures belted off, then stopped and turned to stare at us.
As usual – my camera was not ready – so all I managed to capture were two ears poking out of a bush and the fleeing tail of a bat eared fox!



.

Thank you all for your comments and for taking time to join me on my trip.

Ii dont think words can describe just how beautiful Tankwa is. The tranquility has to be experienced to be understood - I only hope I have done her jusstice.


++//++


That night I was once again sung to sleep by the calling jackal. I hadn’t been asleep very long when I woke up to a spectacular view of the night skies, framed in the bedroom window.
The silence was screaming all around me as I lay and watched the ever changing skies.
No words can do justice to the heavens when there is no light pollution from other sources to dim the sparkling windows in the sky. Perhaps the best way to try and describe it - is to imagine a cloth of black velvet sprinkled with millions of unflawed diamonds that have been polished to perfection.
As the minutes blended into hours the changing heavens kept me from falling back into dreamland. Dawn arrived and I was still awake. I watched the clear blue skies stretch across the mountains and reach out to the landscape below. Not a cloud to be seen.
We had decided to take a drive through to Calvinia to refuel our thirsty tanks. The birds were popping in to say good morning as we fired up our camouflaged vehicle. Morning had done her best to mimic the night skies by sprinkling frost across the back cover but it did not come even a close second to the original.




We headed for the emergency radio. Reception had advised us to radio them prior to setting off so that they could check if the power was back in Calvinia, after the failure of the previous day.
With the green light given we set off to Calvinia. The springbok bowed a greeting as they meandered towards the distant mountains. The birds chirped their cheery good morning as we drove past them. The bustard’s did not stay around very long – with a disgusted look at having their breakfast disturbed they headed for the hills to settle far from the road.



Even after we had left the park it felt as if we were still in the arms of Mother Nature. Plenty of birds and mice to be seen scuttling along the side of the road. The only difference was the fences and signs of human habitation.
On our return to the park we were entertained by eight bat eared foxes gamboling in the midday sun. They were perfectly happy to watch us – until we stopped. Result – another picture of a fleeing fox! Two of them crossed the road in front of us. The others scattered in all different directions.



We had a very late brunch and relaxed around the cottage for most of the afternoon. The Chinese lantern birds taunting me by staying just out of lens range. The puff ball birds almost posing in their willingness to have their picture taken – until I had camera in hand – then they laughed at my frustration as they skipped out of range.



A mongoose scurried down one of the pathways that meandered through the small bushes. Disappearing like magic. A smaller member of its family was not so shy. It was very happy to pose for the camera as it scouted around for an afternoon snack.



It soon wearied of us watching him, and with one last stare at us it too disappeared between the rocks and bushes.

Late afternoon we took a drive to the viewpoint. The road was a tad rough but only in the sense of rocks and stones waiting to ambush unwary tyre. The view was spectacular. We walked to the edge of the world and each stood lost in our own thoughts as the barren beauty stretched out to touch the distant horizon.





The time had come to head back. We silently eased our way down the rocky road, keeping a look out for marauding rocks or stones. Fortunately they behaved and the tyres remained firm and plump with no teeth mark to be seen.



Sadly this would be our last evening in the company of this beautiful place. Deciding not to waste one second in packing or cooking we settled for a snack supper and allowed the calmness and beauty of Tankwa to enfold us in her arms as the Sun said her goodnight.
Early the next morning we packed and had to say our goodbyes..

Once again we would be over nighting at Karoo National Park. Grateful that I still had one night to fall asleep surrounded by nature – I was not prepared for what awaited us.

After a peaceful drive on non-slippery roads we once again drove through the gates of Karoo National Park. The greeting we received at the gate and at reception was as warm and as helpful as ever. It is always such a pleasure to deal with the Karoo people.



As it was late afternoon and the wind was building up, we decided not to do a drive but would do a short drive on our way home the next morning. Very few items were needed for the night and we were soon unpacked and enjoying a hot cup of coffee.
The snow laced the top of the surrounding koppies and although it was bitterly cold the beautiful surroundings soon warmed the heart.

The Sun was preparing for bed and was sending beautiful messages across the sky. Her cloudy blankets constantly changing shape and colour as they drifted across the evening heavens.







A small herd of springbok looking very forlorn and cold marched across the land looking for protection from the icy fingers of the strong winds. The baboons were as silent as the grave. No shrieks of annoyance echoed across the mountains.
Sadly the night was a disaster. The power was out and the camp was being run off generators. Unfortunately the generator was directly behind our chalet. I certainly do not blame Karoo for the inconvenience, but it was disheartening to know that the rumbles and groaning of the generator would block out any possible night stalker’s calls.
The wind did its level best to blow the sound away as it howled and screamed in protest.
The generators pushed and shoved out the electricity – sounding like giants trucks groaning their way up a steep hill.
Finally at 23h00 – silence – except for the wind playing skittles with the chairs and tables on the front porch.
Tossing and turning I eventually gave up on any thoughts of sleep. I checked the time and it was 3h00 in the morning. I must have drifted off after that - only to be rudely awakened by the protesting grunts of the generator kicking into life at 5h00.
Hubby had slept through it all – snoring away like a bear in hibernation.
Dressed and packed we headed down for what we knew was going to be a wonderful breakfast.
Bellies full we were on our final game drive of our holiday.



The weather was still playing games with wind and cold Most of the animals were hiding away from the cutting wind. We did see the usual animals that are offered at Karoo. They were not looking very happy as they ambled towards shelter.
All too soon we were waving goodbye at the gate and heading back to the real world.

I do not believe any photo's or descriptions can do justice to the beauty of Tankwe. This was the period of the ice queen - I now have to see all the moods of this beautiful place. Spring, Summer and Autumn and I am sure it will be equally if not more beautiful that the winter Tanqua.

Micetta - Even though it was mid winter and cold - the days (if the wind was not blowing) were wonderful. We would sit in the Sun - admittedly with jumpers on - but no jackets or heavy winter clothing. At night with the fire going it was as warm as toast.
I am not sure what it is about Tankwa that snared my heart but It has been the most incredible trip to a Sanpark I have had in many many years.
There were a few problems - like the leaking chalet - but we reported this and as previously mentioned the wind and rain was exceptional the day we arrived. If I could bottle how Tankwa made me feel and hand it out to every person - this world would be filled with joy and tranquility!
It may not be every ones cup of tea but for me it is a small piece of heaven on earth.

I forgot one very important thing -

Driving towards Karoo the wind was howling and doing it's utmost to blow the cars off the road. Approaching from the opposite direction was an eighteen wheeler - I put my head in my hands.
A road kill was going to happen in front of me - I could do nothing!
A small mongoose was trying to cross the road - against the wind. The little creature was desperate to get to the other side - Dear Lord - I couldn't watch..

After an eternity - Hubby said:
It's okay - he made it!

How was this possible?
The driver of the 18 wheeler had seen the little mongoose and tried to pull over into the yellow lanes to miss it. The force of the wind from the truck pushed the little mongoose to safety. It skidded along the tar and tumbled down the slight embankment.
It shook itself and scampered off as fast as it could to safety.

to the driver.

I should imagine it's little paws had been scraped and bruised - but other than that -only his dignity had been compromised!