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This was our very 1st trip to Kgalagadi. We have been to Etosha and our usual haunt is KNP, with Addo twice in 2007.

To start this report, I would like to explain how we ended up deciding to go to KTP.

This is trip (and a trip report) that would not have happened, were it not for friends on the Sanparks Forum and my family.

Thanks to them and other trip reports I later read, we changed our plans. We were originally planning to do a KNP trip this year, as we have last been there 4 years ago. Since I joined the Sanparks Forum, I have met the most amazing people and read fascinating trip reports, as well as meets where stories were exchanged and slide shows as well as video footage shown.
Special thanks to everyone I met on the meets, Bush Babtist, my cuz Peter T, Michele, Doug, C O'Dee, Kevin, Mashona, just to mention a few (there were so many, thanks to you all).

Ok, on with the report. This was going to be a camping trip, with a tent. We have only once before camped in a national park, 2007 in Addo. We have been advised about the cold we could expect and the hard ground for the tent pegs and suggested to take fresh veggies with.

Right, I had spare fanbelts, fuses, compressor, etc for the truck and Ann stocked our deepfreeze with food. The fresh stuff we carried in our cooler box.

We set out early on Saturday (1am) and took it easy, travelling not more than 110kph. As we passed Citrusdal, it started raining and got progessively worse the farther we went. Going up the Van Rhyns Pass, it was pouring, with lightning all around. This kept up till Calvinia, where we had our first fuel stop. Then onwards to Upington, it was cloudy, but no rain. Did some shopping and re-fueled in Upington and were on our way again.

From Upington it was a tarred road, till 30 km from Twee Rivieren. We exited onto the gravel section and immediately there were long stretches of mud puddles to negotiate. Rain in the 'dry' season? This 30km section took nearly 2 hours to complete. We arrived at Twee Rivieren gate at 1:45 pm. We were informed that as the result of the rain, the road to Nossob was closed from Samevloeiing till Kij Kij.

We checked-in and set up our camping site.



At 4pm we went for our first drive. At Samevloeiing was a Black Headed Heron



as well as this Anteating Chat (thanks Arks)



We then went on the Mata Mata road and saw some Bat-eared Foxes, but not visible enough for a good photo. That ended our first day. The evening meal was a delicious steak from our local butcher. Sitting around the fire, Ann remarked that it's getting chilly. We had stretchers with solid mattresses, a duvet and blanket. Ann had a hot water bottle as well, so we were somewhat prepared for the cold nights.

Great start, Nyala, and I believe that your mystery bird is an anteating chat — female, I think? You might want to also post in the birds forum for a definitive ID?

Welcome to the forum, Jackal.
I don't know where you are from, but to give you an idea, we travelled from Cape Town and our fuel bill (Diesel) was R4500.00.

James

Sunday, Day 1

As this is our 1st full day, I'll start off as Day 1.

We were up early and it was a bit cool outside. We were the 4Th vehicle out of the gate.

Normally I try to be earlier, but not knowing the park at all, I was in no rush. As we approached the Auob River Bed, we saw our first Gemsbok in the dunes - dunes?? The sand is barely visible. I had been expecting much more sand. Just look at the blue, blue sky, that is something that really impressed me. This was also the first Gemsbok we have encountered since the day of digital cameras as well as some smaller animals and birds.

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Just before Monro borehole, we saw some Yellow Mongoose. They were soaking up the sun and scratching around.

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As we carried on, there were Widebeest on the right, on the ridge and a Pale Chanting Goshawk on the left.

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As we turned in to Auchterlonie Museum, there were a bunch of Meerkat foraging. We spent some time watching their antics. Suddenly, A Pale Chanting Goshawk swooped down. The Meerkat lookout spotted it though and they all disappeared in the burrows. I wonder if the Goshawk would have taken a Meerkat?

Here are the little ones.

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The Look-out

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We had breakfast there (Coffee and Rusks) and continued on.
We saw Jackal, Slender Mongoose, Yellow Mongoose, Ground Squirrel and plenty of Springbok.

Black Backed Jackal
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Slender Mongoose
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Yellow Mongoose
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Ground Squirrel
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Springbok
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As we turned back to Twee Rivieren, I took the Southern Dune Road, time allowing us to go as far as Kij Kamies Borehole. Up to now the roads we took were corrugated, but ok. This
stretch had extremely bad patches of corrugations. I had deflated the tyres to 1.5 bar all round, but we were still shaken. On some parts I was in 2nd gear, travelling 15kph and the whole vehicle (and us as well) was shaking. On the road we came across this fellow, licking salt.

Steenbok
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On the way back to camp we saw more Goshawks and plenty of game. Also spotted this one.

Swallow-Tailed Bee-Eater
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Although our first day did not bring us big cats, we were satisfied with all the smaller animals we saw.
Oh yes, reflecting on our expectations later next to the fire, there was one thing we were looking forward too, a meet in Nossob, but more on that later.
I also hoped to see some Yellow Ribbons in the park.

James

Monday Day 2

Much colder this morning, 5°C. While waiting for the gate to open, I deflated the tires to 1bar at the back and 1.2 at the front. That should give us a better ‘cushion’ We put on our beanies, as I drive with the window open. Firstly we went to Samevloeiing, but nothing going on there. Then on the road to Mata Mata, just before Houmoed Borehole, this one was lying in the sun.

Leopard
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Our first Leopard! It was not close to the road, but readily visible. Later it moved to under a tree (LUTS – Leopard Under tree Sighting) and we eventually left it there.

Fork-Tailed Drongo
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On to breakfast at the Museum at Auchterloni.
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After the vehicle on the left in the picture has driven off, I noticed someone had dropped their cap. I remembered the registration, N***OH, so I picked up the cap and was determined to keep a sharp look-out for them.

View of the river bed from the museum
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Onto the Dune Road South we went. Lions were seen at Tier Kop the previous day, so we hoped they were still there. On the way we saw this Crowned Lapwing (Plover),
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Secretary Bird
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Well, no Lions at Tier Kop, but some Gemsbok, so we carried on to Kij Kij and on to Melkvlei Picnic Site. On the way Ann saw a Brown Hyena, but before I could stop, it disappeared in burrows in the side of the river. On the way back, Blue Wildebeest.
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The corrugations in the Dune Road South.
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Black Backed Jackal
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There were many Kori Bustards, every couple of kms or so. They were all moving away from the camera, except this one.
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Red-Necked Falcon
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Near to Samevloeiing, late afternoon (4.50) we saw 5 Bat-Eared Foxes. They are really cute.
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At Samevloeiing, there was a number of Gemsbok drinking. We headed back to the camp. After the gates closed, I went on a hunt for the owner of the cap I picked up. Eventually found the vehicle at one of the chalets and asked the group sitting on the stoep if it belongs to any of them. Well, the owner seemed somewhat surprised to get it back! Another braai and something to warm us up was on the cards.


James

Tuesday Day3

This morning was the coldest yet, I even had gloves on! To-day we would travel as far as Kamqua Borehole and then turn back.
We saw plenty of Springbok and Gemsbok, grazing on the dunes.

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I simply adore the markings on the Gemsbok, it makes them really stand out. There were lots of birdlife, with sightings of Secretary Birds, Crowned Lapwings, Fork Tailed Drongos and this Tawny Eagle, building it’s nest.

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Cape Crow
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At Kamqua Picnic Site, there was a Crimson Breasted Shrike, that I just could not get a decent picture of. I had my 300mm lens on and was hand holding the camera, which meant high shutter speed and the bird was either in the shade or moved just as I pressed the shutter. This was the best picture.

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White-Browed Sparrow Weaver

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On the way back, we stopped at Auchterloni picnic site and heard that a Leopard was seen walking past the Museum! Well, that must have been an exciting experience, I wish I could have been there. At Kamfersboom Borehole we saw a whole lot of Ostriches,

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and a Tortoise.

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Our last stop before returning to Camp was at Samevloeiing, where the Gemsbok were having their last drink of the day.

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On this day we did not see any large predators, but game was in abundance and our bird ‘lifers’ jumped by 5.

Well, I did write the report on Thursday evening, but I do it on MS Word and only uploaded it now
K. O'Dee, re the Leopard, I know what you mean. In all the time we have been to parks, this is the 1st time I could actually photograph one. We passed a couple of vehicles parked along the river bed and as we slowly crawled past, the driver looked at us and waved, not saying anything. We did not stop but that evening in the camp, he said there was a Leopard they were watching.
That nearly freaked me out!

James

Wednesday Day 4

Our stay at Twee Rivieren has come to an end and to-day we move on to Nossob. As the road between Samevloeiing and Kij Kij was still closed, we used the Dune Road South to get to Kij Kij and from there to Nossob. Just before the turn-off to the Dune Road South, we saw this juvenile Martial Eagle.
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With a load on the truck, the Dune Road’s corrugations were not felt so much. There were Gemsbok and Steenbok all along this road. As we got to Kij Kij, there was a Lapped Faced Vulture on the one side of the road and a Jackal on the other. We looked around for a kill, but could not see any. As the road to Twee Rivieren was closed, we could not go and see if there was anything there.

Lapped Faced Vulture
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Black Backed Jackal
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We continued up to Melkvlei Picnic spot, where there is an alternate road to the left. As we turned into this road, Ann spotted some movement. I stopped and grabbed my camera. It was on her side and she was using the video camera, so by the time I was ready, it was peering at us and I could only make out the head.
African Wild Cat
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This was also my first opportunity to photograph an AWC and I was very contented. Yesterday barring Jackal, we saw no predators and still no Lion, but all the other sightings made up for that. We continued on and after a while saw a car approaching with a Yellow Ribbon on the mirror! Wow, our first YR sighting in the park. It was Emme, from Arizona. They were on their way to Twee Rivieren. It’s so exciting to meet someone like this and I really hope all our Forum members tie that ribbon on their mirrors.
Along the road were plenty of Springbok, Blue Wildebeest and Gemsbok and also some Red Hartebeest.
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Nossob Camp
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We checked in at Nossob and enquired about a sunset drive, but was disappointed to hear their guide was doing a tour at Twee Rivieren and would not be back before we moved on to Mata Mata. We pitched camp, had a cool one and went to the hide at the waterhole. There were some Springbok in the distance, but not much else going on. Our neighbour said he had sightings of Lion with cubs yesterday at Marie se Gat, so for an afternoon drive we went there, but there was nothing. Where are the Lions? I have read so much about the big Kalahari Lions, but has yet to see any. Perhaps better luck to-morrow. Later that evening we went to the hide and saw 4 Jackal around the waterhole.

James

Thursday Day 5

We set out early, 1st car out, and went north, planning to go as far as Lijersdraai Picnic Spot. Just after leaving camp, there was a most beautiful sunrise.
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Bateleur, giving each other the cold shoulder
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The morning was a bit chilly (like every other one ….) but as we came to Cubitje Quap Borehole, the cold was forgotten, as here was our first Lion! When we got there, she was chasing the Sand Grouse and Doves, which were trying to drink. It was quite amusing to see her stalking and chasing them. After some time, she moved off and over the dune. This Lioness was huge! If this is the norm, I can't wait to see more. At last ‘mombakkies af’ – roughly translated means pressure off.
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African Hoopoe
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Then just past Kwang Borehole we encountered 3 rare species, so far only encountered once in KTP. They were YR vehicles with Michele & S.O., K. O’Dee & C. O’Dee and Oulouis and S.O.! A rare sighting indeed. We were happy to see them, as we would be having a chat later at Nossob and I wished K. O’Dee a Happy Birthday for yesterday. They carried on to Nossob and we eventually turned back at Langklaas, game being few and far between.
Back at the camp we had a rest and out again for an afternoon trip to Marie se Gat, looking for the Lions and Cubs.

Some Camping Sites at Nossob.
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At Marie se Gat there were no Lions, but we pulled in next to the Ietermagogs and shared our experiences. As we were turning back, a car stopped next to us. It was Pikaso and Vahine! I did chat to Vahine earlier at the camp, but then did not realise who they were. On the back to camp, we saw this Pale Chanting Goshawk.
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That evening we went over for a braai and a wonderful evening with lots of banter. Pikaso and Vahine also joined us and we had a great time. With it being my Birthday the next day, Michele presented me with a bottle of Amarula, just the thing for a nightcap! They were only there for one night and were headed for Twee Rivieren the next day. Oulouis were headed for Mata Mata. Thanks Ietermagogs for a ‘lekker’ braai, we really enjoyed it.

Hi Dreamer

What's with these guys? Do they want to keep every sighting a secret? Last year in Addo we were watching a Lioness and a car came past without stopping. I kept on flashing the car's headlights till he noticed it and turned back. After all, you often miss a sighting, so any indication is most welcome.

James

Friday Day 6

We decided that we’ll go to Lijersdraai and do the loops, as we did not get there yesterday. It being my birthday, my present from Ann was a Lion sighting, yea right!

An interesting Sunrise.
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There was nothing going on at Cubitje Quap, so we pushed on. After a while I noticed a dust cloud ahead and soon enough we encountered another rare ‘species’, one whom we were extremely happy to encounter. Now the road would be much more pleasurable to drive on. It let us pass and we carried on. Perhaps that is why we saw so little wildlife up to now.
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Just before we got to Bedinkt Borehole, we saw 2 Lion walking in the direction we were travelling. My birthday gift! They kept on walking and eventually disappeared into the bush. Although we stayed around, they did not emerge. These were magnificent beasts, I wonder where the females were.
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At Bedinkt there were some Gemsbok, Springbok and a Jackal and while we watched them, the grader went past. We waited a while for it to get well ahead of us and carried on. At least the road was a pleasure to drive on, as smooth as you can imagine. At all the boreholes there were antelope and we eventually got to Lijersdraai Picnic Site.
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I was very cautious in getting out of the vehicle, as it’s all open around and anything could be hiding there. There is not water, so no flushing toilet. Inside the building was a plastic cubicle and it reeked! Well if you have to go, then you gave to go.
We did the 2 loops and saw plenty of Gemsbok, Springbok and few Hartebeest. We quite often encountered small snakes crossing the road.
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On the way back to Nossob, there were lots of Springbok grazing next to the road in big concentrations.
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That evening we had a Chile Con Carne Potjie and some red wine with a nightcap of Amarula!
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James

Thanks wanderw, yes it must have been them.

James

Saturday Day 7

This morning it was to Marie se Draai, hoping to see the Lioness & Cubs everyone was talking about. At Rooikop Borehole, there was nothing going on. Just as we turned into Marie se Draai, we saw this Secretary Bird on its overnight perch.
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At Marie se Gat there were no Lions, but some very inquisitive (and daring) Cape Glossy Starlings.
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We waited around for some time, watching the antics of the starlings then continued on. About 2 km further on we saw a White-Backed Vulture on a nest.
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With not much activity around, we went north once again. At Cubitje Quap, the ever present Doves and Grouse. Also some Blue Wildebeest,
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and Red Headed Finches.
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In the vicinity of the Boreholes were plenty of Gemsbok and Springbok. We also saw this Double-Banded Courser, a lifer for us. At least I hope I have I.D. it correctly.
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Back at Nossob, I went for a dip in the pool. As before, the water was quite cool (understatement) bur very refreshing. We spent some time in the camp and hide, photographing. Here you can see the webcam at Nossob (white thing that looks like a lamp), part of the Bird Hide and the waterhole.
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Nossob’s Weather Station.
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Late the afternoon we went to Marie se draai, but still no Lions. Well, better luck to-morrow. Once more, there were enough to see in birds and game and we had a very enjoyable day.

Ok, here is the next bit.

Sunday Day 8

We were early at the gate, so we went to the hide, but there were no animals, just a beautiful sunrise.
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Firstly straight to Marie se Draai, but still no Lions. Perhaps they have migrated somewhere, as there were no sightings posted on the sighting board of them for the last 3 days. Sightings were slow today; perhaps all the animals were resting as it was Sunday, after all? I caught a Crowned Lapwing fairly close-up.
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We got back to camp middle afternoon and as it was our last day at Nossob, started packing stuff away, so that we could be out early the next morning.

Monday Day 9

We were all loaded up and out the gate 15mins after gate opening time. Today were moving to Mata Mata for the last part of our trip. Just outside the gate there was a BBJ, weaving in and out of the road. We spent about 5 minutes trying to get a decent picture of him, eventually moving on. Before we got to Rooikop, there was a car parked and we were told we had just missed a Cheetah and cub crossing the road and disappearing over the dune. Perhaps the BBJ was a decoy? Anyway, some you see, some you don’t. When we got to the turn-off to Marie se Draai, we were in two minds, do we do the loop or not? Well, it being the last time, we went on the loop. At Marie se Gat, there were 2 vehicles parked and lo and behold, at the water a Lioness!
I decided to park on the right, to get some elevation and there was another Lioness!
Ann started filming with the video and out popped the Lioness and 3 cubs. Just then I noticed the Lioness on my side had 2 bigger cubs as well. Now this was the pride we were told about, although the male was nowhere to be seen. Two of the cubs started gnawing on the front tire, but got up as mom passed.
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We stayed there watching the cubs playing, but we had to go. Just before we got to end of the loop, there was this solitary Kudu. This was the first one we have seen in the park, they seem to be scarce.
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At Kaspersdraai we noticed a lot of Lion tracks and noticed they were heading the same way as us. Not long after that we saw the Lioness walking just off the road in the grass.
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We followed her till she disappeared. That made it 8 Lions for the day and really got my blood circulating.
At Cheleka there were some Red Hartebeest.
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Early afternoon we got to Mata Mata and pitched camp. We got great site under a tree, all in shade. The pesky Ground Squirrels we everywhere and very inquisitive, getting into the tent as well. Fortunately all the eats were in crates, so they lost out. As the fire was burning and we relaxed, we were treated to this great sunset. We just hoped the rain would stay away.
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Yes, p@m, after they lay down in the grass, the one chap in the bakkie next to us said that at one point it looked like the mom was about to jump onto the bonnet of our bakkie and he had his camera ready for the shot. That would have freaked me out, I can tell you.

James