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Pilgrimage to Kruger July 2012
The butterflies are flying around in my tummy.... It has finally arrived. Our annual pilgrimage to Kruger. Why Pilgrimage?

Definition of Pilgrimage : Typically, it is a journey to a shrine or other location of importance to a person's beliefs and faith.

Pretty much sums up my view of Kruger. Kruger embodies all that I want to teach my kids about life. How each and every animal/organism is part of our circle of life. I know 10 days out of 365 is not nearly enough but hopefully what we see and experience in those days as a family sticks. It did for me, so hopefully it will for them.

Rule 1 of visiting Kruger - no TV, No Computer, No Ipad and Cell phone usage only in an emergency! These rules are more for the adults than the kids

It is not about what we see (although it makes for great stories) it is about the fire at night


Sunsets


Sunrises


The smells of the bush, the sounds of the African night, the sting of the sun on your skin. These are the treasures that we will remember.

So in the current Olympic Spirt... On your mark, get set GO! Let the pilgrimage begin.

Friday 6 July we finally break the secret we had been keeping from the girls.... We are leaving for Kruger today my loves - 10 days of just us. They were so excited and after grabbing some final items we hop into the car (packed the night before) and head to the airport. Cape Town I love you but I am so happy to be trading this wet for some sunshine!

The flight went off with only a few delays HUMF HUMF and we arrive in a very brown JNB before getting our car and leaving the city behind. The long drive is only stopped by a dash into Nelspruit for the usual supplies before we overnight in Malelane. Of course Kruger is just a across the river but the night dragged and my excitement built for the next day when we enter THE HOLY LAND

The next morning we eat breakfast looking at paradise across the river.


Excitedly we jump into our rental and hit the road to Crocodile Bridge. Time to enter Eden.

Crocodile Bridge is our point of entry. A quick photo as we cross but unlike the railway bridge that ends, our journey is ready to begin.


The girls are ready to see it all.

Welcome @Normana53!
@Crested Val You make me blush with so many complements thank you! I will try and make this report interesting too!
@barryels Thanks the trip was just one of those that you didn’t want to end, not because we saw spectacular things but because we just enjoyed the Park so much.
@MM Thanks!


Back to the report because the bus must keep moving!

Of course all bets are on to see what animal is spotted first but before that a moment of silence as we roll down the window and breathe in the Kruger air! Finally we are here and we are ready.

First up? You guessed it IMPALA,


followed shortly by one of the ugliest animals in the park!



Shame when looks were handed out these guys just didn’t even make it to the queue!

BUSTED! A Cori that is. Great to see this guy so soon after entering the Park.



Not much further along the road is a family favorite and the first thing the girls think of is Lion King where Pumbaa: [through a mouthful of grub and worms; says to Simba] “You'll learn to love 'em!”




Maybe you enjoy Rhino poop, Pumbaa but I think I will stick to a steak on the braai!

We have a long drive ahead of us as we head towards Tamboti! We head up on the H4-2 and as we near Lower Sabie we see our first predator. He is far away but a Lion is a Lion!! Personally I think it is Simba roaring his disapproval to Pumbaa at his choice of grub!



Will this prince become a king of the kudus? He looked like a fine specimen to me!


Just looking at his head makes me wonder how itchy those horns must be as they start to grow.

A look back at Lower Sabie from the bridge. It felt good to know we would be coming back here later in the trip.


Some lazy hippy hippos were basking in the sun.



So adorable. Hard to think they are such dangerous animals when they sleep with a smile on their faces!

As we are driving along the H10 we are very disturbed by a dirty nappy lying in the road! Can you believe that? Terrible.

But back to happy thoughts! Like this vulture let’s put that thought behind us!


And look ahead to a wonderful trip. Like little Klippie over here on the rock staring into the future.

Thanks everybody!


The H1-3 is our route of choice up to Tamboti and we see our first Ellies of the trip.





We were surprised at how full Kumana dam was. Some Waterbuck enjoying all that water!




All the rain has definitely left Kruger a little greener than what we are used to in winter. I like the change. One of the only places that you can visit many times over and the scenery will be different each time.

The drive up to and past Satara is pretty uneventful and as we hit the H7 we are excited to get to Tamboti and light the fire for our first night in Kruger. We love Tamboti. It is so rustic and quiet not to mention a real adventure to be sleeping in a tent. My only wish is that you could get a tent with 4 beds! Like many of the parks units the LST3 only has a double bed and sleeper couch. More 4 bed units would be great for small families Still it is worth the squash.

The most interesting sighting on the road was this dead Giraffe! We wonder how it happened and can only hope it wasn’t someone driving to fast. What we do know is that tomorrow it won’t look like this anymore!



Check in goes smoothly and we are all ready to unpack. Unit 37 is where we are and it is stunning (when isn’t it?) Lovely views along the tree line. Whenever I come here I am reminded of a special song with the following lyrics:


As die donker my kom haal

en die here my nie soek nie

as die osoonlaag vergaan

en in 'n kandelaar van sterre val

begrawe my hart op Klein Tambotieboom

en strooi my as oor die Bosveld-horison

jy het nie 'n graad nie

en jy het nie 'n kredietkaart nodig nie

om in die agterplaas soos 'n kind te baljaar

en die verte in van 'n krans af te staar

die gelukkigste wat ek ooit was

op die naat van my rug in die natuurreservaat

die wind sing my naam

en deur die bottels wat knak
hoor ek 'n skaterlag

geïsoleer in donderweer

ver van die wolkekrabbers

net die atmosfeer wat aan ons kleef

en 'n wolkbreuk wat my boekdeel spreek

jy weet ek het nie

ek het nie 'n agenda nie

Sigh.... Home at last.

8 August 2012
The morning air is oh to VERY fresh and cold but we pile the kids PJ’s and all into the car. Especially early because as a few of you might know in 18 years of visiting the park I am dying to see a Wild Dog. With so many visits and NO sightings I feel like I am doomed never to see the spotted cutie This trip could be the game changer.... Who knows what lies ahead of us.....

OK sorry about the distraction but just wanted to put it out there if anyone has tips where to find them please share your secrets! For now we are out looking in the Orpen area before the sun is even up!!

We do spot a spotted creature but not quite a Doggie!!! This is the first sign that dead MR JERRY has been discovered!


Next was a little guy trying to get in on the action!



Well our morning is spent watching Hyenas devouring the “Family Feast” curtsy of KNP!
We prefer the “Family Feast from KFC but this is so much more fun to watch!




Big mamma gets the leg this time!!


Photos are a bit blurry because the light was still not great

The sun makes it’s appearance through the bushes while we watch the carcass demolition
After spending time with the feasting Hyena we feel like a snack ourselves so time for an Ouma (of the rusk variety!) and a cup of coffee! Off to Bobbejaan Krans!


A quick stretch of the legs while we sip on our coffee and back in the car. Not a moment to soon as we spot this guy less than a kilometer away!!


My eyes got to be the same size as the kids toy bushbaby!!



Kruger lovers will know exactly where this beautiful animal rich spot is.


Nsemani what a place!


We also get to see a few waterbuck and as always the fawn gets all the oooo’s and aaaaa’s!


Our circular drives brings us past Satara where we spot an Ellie.


Once on the S126 Emily takes the wheel!! Alonso look out!


The S126 and S 36 prove to be very quiet yet beautiful. A herd of Ellies


A couple of Zebbies


and of course some Jerry’s.


This guys had a very weird bump growing on his side. Ok now that I look closer 2 bumps!


A pair of Duiker were also in the mix but the female never posed for a camera shot.

@Crested Val I did feel very sorry for him
@Foxy Thanks !
@Barryels It’s a pleasure to share and Thank you! Nsemani dam is always a favorite
@Grantmissy I see that now in the picture would be quite funny! Great to have you along for the trip.
@Heksie waterbuck babies are very cute - so fluffy! Yes the kids love driving when they can (they really think it is all them!)


Back up to the main road and the family at the feast have invited some “chicks” over to join them.


Seems like they like their steak rare!



Scavangers all around.
Poor Jerry went down without a sound
Now they are tucking in with delight
Have been doing it all night
"Eat him eat him " is what they say,
There will be nothing left by the end of day.
This is the way life ebbs and flows
For one once so high is now so low


Just some fun...

Time to head back to our tent for a siesta after our early morning exodus. Also along the trip we spotted rhino twice. No locations are to be mentioned but here is a pic of these amazing and now sad creatures. I hope this one gets to have his mom around for all his life!

After a rest we decide to head out for a sunset drive. Just as we leave on the Tamboti road we see a little Jackallassie!


And not 100m from him a vulture right next to the car.



And we we spot a fellow formite. @tentdweller! Great to meet you all be it on the road! I must say it is surprising that there are so few of us in the park!

Heading down Ventura High ..... ok the H7. Some Kudu in the riverbed.


Ventura Highway, in the sunshine
Where the days are longer
The nights are stronger
Than moonshine
You're gonna go, I know


We stop to catch the golden sunset over the river before turning around to be back in time for the gate.


Our mellow drive back to our tent is livened up by some cars stopped and moving back and forth. What could it be... something spotted? The light is horrendous and he was a distance off but a leo the lop is still a leo!


He was definitely hunting but we didn’t have the time to stay and see what happens Just time for one last sunset photo before heading back down the Tamboti road.

The fire is on and the girls are having fun with their headlights and lessons in fire making!




Now since we have been to Tamboti before and didn’t have a late night visitor as we usually do we wondered if they would come tonight? We hear the scurrying of familiar feet. (plus the odd person yelling as they came past!) Yip the honey badgers were out tonight. We position our chairs on the deck and wait... Rather nervously!


Our bin was tipped with absolutely no regard and Mr HB went for the AVO!!



I must say nerves got the better of me and I ran into the tent where the girls we sleeping peacefully. I begged Ray to come in when the badgers (yip two of them) start making their way up the stairs!!! They scratched through the pots and pans in search of nibbles! What do they decide on... My left over coffee in the sink. sluuuuuurrrrrrp and there is nothing left. Wonder how hyper they got from the caffeine!

But they are not our only visitor Mr Spotted Genet also makes an appearance later that night. He is far more interested in leftover bones off the braai. So I guess I am the Honey Badger and my hubby is the Spotted Genet aka Carnivore!!



One of the many reasons to keep coming back to magical Tamboti!

9 July 2012
Another early morning start in hope of finding the illusive doggies!! Our plan is to have a short morning drive and then come back to pack up and head up to Olifants.

Same spotties are still running around with the scent of giraffe getting them going!


We stop for coffee and rusks in one of the loop roads off the H7.


Only to see that many have used this as a toilet spot!! How annoying....

Seriously why leave toilet paper to blow in the wind or end up down some poor animals’s throat. It looks so bad. Not to mention the creatures that could be lurking in the area....


Not much happening on this morning drive and we still need to pack up our paraphernalia. Back at Tamboti getting the car packed was quite the challenge. Monkey’s made off with anything I put outside for hubby to carry to the car. We were lucky to loose only a packet of crackers and some bread. It was quite the sight to see me running in and out the tent shooing them away. Eventually the girls stood on guard (although they were a bit scared) they bravely waved dishcloths and yelled at the little critters to “back off busters!”

At least the menagerie of teddies were safe...


Courtney says and I quote: “Mom the best part about Kruger is you are never to old” Isn’t that a fact?

We manage to briefly spot a Civet but alas no pictures!

Along the way we see the old faithfuls, regular sightings in Kruger but often forgotten heroes.




Between Nsemani and the road up to Satara s a tree. One of the few in the area and probably one that many have spotted various creatures. The tree spoils us with one of my best sightings of a Bateleur. My favorite eagle. We stayed here enjoying this rare chance to watch this exquisite bird.





A true treat!

A quick run in at Satara for a toilet break and a sightings board check before heading back out. The plan is drive up via Timbavati picnic site and up one of our favorite roads the S39! (Need I say more!) Stunning scenery and a true testament to the beauty of the landscape. The heart is now very merry as the city is a long gone memory!

Ellie on the S127


Survival of the fittest. Found it really interesting that the spine was left in tact!


This little guy is enjoying the sun near Piet Grobler Dam.



The dam a bit fuller than normal.


With all this water around it is not surprising to see a Waterbuck. She is so cute!


Zebra and Giraffe - not the band!


A true S39 lover will know this exact spot! I feel like Wilbur Smith must have spent time here when writing some of his novels...



When reaching the Olifants River crossing we had some Baboons walking very “swaaigat” It reminded me of a song with the lyrics Shake That Ass!

This view sure hits the spot.


We check in at Olifants. Unit 109. What a beautiful little rondawel. We really love this camp. So quiet and the best views. After unpacking and setting up the extra mattress for Emmi. We head off for a sunset drive. Instead of “sundowners” we buy a couple of ice creams and head to the Olifants lookout.

Left and right this is such a nostalgic place.



I can’t help but feel completely African whenever I come here. The silence speaks volumes. The girls sure enjoy their ice cream!



While these three enjoy the view from the car I am taking kiekies and get close to a Crested Barbet.


Driving home we watch as the gold reflects off the tops of the Mopani trees. Shimming light adding to a golden sunset.

10 July 2012
Misty Morning wake up from Olifants!


Why can I never get two nights in a row at this camp??? I hate leaving my silent retreat.

Just before we leave the camp I give the girls a chance to take a photo of an impala lily. They are desperate to learn and I let them use our old “mik-en-driks” This is what they capture.




We take the Bulule road and our very first sighting is lioness and her cub. Photos are terrible but the excitement was great!

Old Rafiki checking us out.... Shame something wasn’t great with his dental work!


The Busted.... was a Bustard!


Who was at Bangu? This is the way to get the best water.


Foal and mother enjoying the delicious “sweetveld”! just after Bangu.


Of course no trip is complete without a Lilac Breasted Roller in your collection of photos....



This one’s horns are still at “attention!”


And this baby was protected by the rest of the herd.

Gudzani East must have been the scene of a crime..... These “undertakers” testify to a grizzly demise of something who had it’s last drink not to long ago.


I love the call of the “Go-away” bird as it might signal predators are in the area.



We see a few cars up ahead and wonder if the bird got it right?.... It sure did

CHEETAH Lying in all their glory!! Wow we had never seen them so close in Kruger before. Close being about 50 m from the car! There were 3 of them enjoying the heat of the sun. S41 you beauty!


With our bladders bursting these guys are singing us into N’wanetsi.


One of favorite views.

After some delish wraps we head on towards Satara via the S100. Even without any major predator sightings this road is always beautiful.


The Zebra foal in the background gives an idea of how tall these Saddle bills really are!
Then a bit of a treat in seeing a Fish Eagle eating. This loop down towards the river always produces something interesting and watching the Fish Eagle eating was a definitely something to talk about!



Time to check in at Satara. Now I am not one to complain about my beautiful Kruger Park but it was a somewhat disappointing check in. No one seemed to want to really help except for one very friendly lady that ended up helping all 6 of us in reception while the others looked grumpy and took forever on one client each. Then when we reached out unit we discovered we had NO fridge! We went back to reception where we were told there was a shortage but they would see what they could do. All the while my expensive meat and dairy supplies are melting away in the heat. After about 2 hours I phoned the manger since when at reception I couldn’t see him/her. After much pleading we received a tiny little fridge which had to make do. I love Satara and Kruger but surely this is an unacceptable situation. I just hope they didn’t take someone else’s fridge and leave them without.....

That night while we were braaing my neighbor was very excited to show us an AFRICAN WILD CAT!!!! In camp!! It was so fast and I didn’t have my camera ... All I can say is it was beautiful!

11 July 2012
Early to rise sees a glorious sunrise! the warm air coming off the buffalos really made it extra special.



The idea was to have a coffee break at N’wanetsi and since we took the S100 the afternoon before, we opted for the H6 instead. It proved to be an excellent decision as our luck with hyena’s continued. We came upon a den where 4 inquisitive pups were left to their own devises. Our coffee break came early as they spent 30 minutes investigating our car. My girls were so enthralled by the “puppies”

The Leader aka “Voorbok”


Cautious (last to arrive at our car!) aka “Bangroek”




Gangsta! YO YO YO “I’m in the Kruger hood!”



He just looked so cute with his fluffy hair!
The Sniffing brigade ! Nibbling on the mudguards!


My favourite aka “Pretty Girl” She kept coming to my window to check us out!



Who is watching who?


We had to tear ourselves away from this little gang of cuties as a toilet break was calling! Not to far from the Hyenas were a small group of Zebra.