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DAY 13 continued...

Once on the S41we popped in at the Gudzani Dam to see what was happenning there. The usual Hippos were fast asleep and a number of Impala were drinking on the far side. We did not stay long but did see this Fish Eagle near the dam wall as well as a very noisy Yellow-billed Hornbill





WE then headed up the S100 and saw this largew pride of Lions at a waterhole in the river. We wondered if this could be the "mega pride" that had been seen in this region a few times. We counted 14 lions scattered in the shade



These two big fellows seemed to enjoy each others' company!



We moved on till we reached the right hand turn-off back onto the Mananga Trail. This section was very quiet but the wind had really picked up and this, together with the heat, made conditions a bit grim. We ended up back at the waterhole and decided to park under a tree and watch the goings on at the waterhole from the comfort of our camping chairs. This is really a great experience. We warmed up some lunch on the gas and settled back to watch the activity.



These Hooded Vultures flew in for a drink







Next it was the turn of the Elephants to arrive. It is amazing how silently they appear. Some came to the trough and clearly did not approve of the quality of the water so went to the reservoir. It was amazing watching the younger ones standing on their back legs to reach over the reservoir wall











There was a flock of Red-billed Quelea flying around the waterhole - these birds really are restless but amazing how quickly they all find a perch on the smallest of trees



A few Impala rams arrived at the drinking trough but were very skittish when approaching the water - heaven knows what they thought could be hiding in the trough!



The Ellies started moving off. Some even had a good wash and must have felt a lot cooler. It was so nice ewatching them from the comfort of our chairs - a truly memorable experience. The mothers left with the little ones in tow





We then headed off on the last leg of the trail which took us north to a junction with the S90 - also a lovely drive up the river. We headed back to Satara to pick up our deposit before continuing on to Maroela seeing this White-crowned Shrike along the way



This beautiful sunset was a fitting end to a truly memorable day

DAY 14

Thanks to all forumites for your comments and inputs - always good to hear from you.

SO and I decided to head towards Satara and on down the S100. Unfortunately the roads in the south (S36 ) really were not worth travelling because of their poor condition which was a pity. Nebvertheless the H7 very seldom lets one down.

First up was this lone Spotted Hyena which came ambling down the road



Just before reaching the S36 junction we saw a large herd of Waterbuck. This calf was enjoying an early morning drink - looked a bit big to still be suckling



There is always an air of expectation once one gets on to the S100. We have had mixed views about this road but on this trip the game was really plentiful - lots of antelope and Giraffe. This Pearl-spotted Owlet perched near the road



The Starlings are so often ignored because there are so many of them and they sometimes get on one's nerves. They are, however, really pretty birds



This big fellow was lying near one of the few waterholes left in the riverbed. He certainly was keeping all the thirsty antelope away because there were hundreds of inpala and Zebra milling around about 200m from the waterhole - clearly desperate for a drink but not with this spoil sport around!



We headed to the Gudzani Dam where a kind gentleman informed us that the were 4 male lions next to the road further up the S41 - S90 junction. The temptation was too great so we set off to find them, spotting the Saddle-billed Stork along the way



What a sight greeted us - I had never seen 4 male lions together before. They were lying next tro each other, one getting up as soon as we arrived. There were only two other cars at this magnificent sighting which made it very special indeed. They were very alert and seemed to be watching something across the vlei. One by one the got up and slowly moved to the other side of the vlei. Unfortunately I never got a pic of all 4 of them together. Here are a series of pics taken of these lions

DAY 14 continued....

Once again my thanks to the forumites for all your interest and comments - I trust you are enjoying the ride..

The excitement did not stop here - eventually all the lions made their way through the vlei. We were heading back down the S41 towards Gudzani when we were stopped by a car to tewll us that a number of lionesses were heading up the vlei towards "our" lions. He had hardly told us when pandemonium struck. The lions stormed out of the vlei and chased the lionesses up towards the S90. This was the first time that I had witnessed this behaviour. We made our way to the S90 as quickly as possible where we found one very scared lioness lying behind a bush. The male lions could be heard roaring thir heads off further back. We never saw them again but they had clearly not taken lightly to having these lionesses near them.

We waited a while before heading down the S41 again. Anything seen now could be an anti-climax after all the excitement! En-route to Nwanetzi we saw this handsome Waterbuck and a family of Warthog





We had a welcome cuppa at the picnic spot before heading down to the Sweni Hide where we saw the usual suspects



This Yellow-billed Stork seemed to be doing some serious stretching excercises







This immature Saddle-billed Stork was busy all the time looking for a morsal to eat. They certainly do improve in looks as they get older!





We then decided to head home via the H6 to Satara and then down the H7. We saw this Tawny Eagle and a Burchill's Coucal along the way

DAY 15

We could hardly believe that we only had two days left at Maroela so decided to make a fist of it by doing a nice long drive.

A beautiful sunrise greeted us as we turned onto the H7 which was the perfect start to the day



Well maybe this was a better start - a few Km down the road this young Leopard crossed the road right in front of us. Unfortunately it was in a hurry so no decent pics



We actually had a good chuckle here because a madman with his family on board overtook us at break-neck speed. While I was cursing him this Leopard trotted across the road with this guy's tail lights in the background - what a pleasure!

More surprises were in store for us - this lone Lion was walking down the road near the Bobbejaan Krantz turn-off. He appeared to be a bit irritated with all the attention ala Kruger style that he was getting. He eventually dashed off into the bush - can't blame him. I always wonder why people have to drive so close to these poor animals.



The look in these eyes says it all "Please get out of my space"



This was turning out to be a red letter day - cats cats and more cats. This mating couple came waltzing down the road towards us and lay down right next to us. The good lady moved off but the handsome fellow certainly seemed to enjoy having his pic taken. It was not long before the usual traffic jam took place which was a good time to leave









Near Satara we saw this Burchill's Coucal perched rarther awkwardly in a bush



A quick stop at Satara was very welcome. I searched for the Scopsies in the trees near the shop but to no avail. We decided to head up the road towards Olifants and then turn right onto the S90 and travel this route all the way up past Bangu Waterhole, past the Ngotso Weir and then head down the S39 to Timbavati picnic spot. Somewhere along this route (no clues) we saw this magnificent White Rhino

DAY 15 continued...

When we arrived at the S90 - S42 junction we thought it may be a good idea to drive a few km down the S42 and possibly see the 4 lions that we had seen yesterday. Well we were not disappointed - they were lying on the far side of the vlei - all four of them. They eventually got up and strolled towards us



These Zebra were watching them closely....



....and eventually they decided to make a quick getaway



The lions disappeared into the bush , we waited but they never appeared again so we headed back to the S90 and headed north. Near Bangu waterhole we noticed that the trees in this particular area were laden with these nests - never seen this before. I would be interested to know what birds they belong to. Most of the nests looked "unoccupied"



Bangu was quiet and so was the rest of the drive all the way down to Timbavati picnic spot. The Goedgegun waterhole , however, was a hive of activity - this is a lovely waterhole for photography



After a quick fry-up we headed back to the H7 via the Girivana waterhole which had a number of really big elephabts in attendance.

Once again the H7 served up the cats - this fellow was in dreamworld on an embankment next to the road. He was totally unpeturbed by the attention that he was getting - not even the millions of flies buzzing around his head could disturb him!



Could it get any better - well YES.
On the short drive down to Maroela we bumped into these Cheetah who were making good use of the shade on this hot day





Wow - 4 lion sightings plus Leopard and Cheetah. Could'nt get much better!

This fellow was our constant companion in the camp - it would sit for hours watching our every move



In the evening we decided to drive up the road as far as the H& junction hoping to see the Cheetah again but unfortunately they had moved off. We did, however, see this Steenbokkie





As we arrived back min camp this family of Ellies moved up the dry Timbavati river bed right in front of our campsite.



Thereafter the usual routine followed - fire, beer, beer...., braai, wine, wine.....sleep most likely followed by plenty of snoring!!

DAY 15

Well the week at Maroela had nearly come to an end - we decided to do a morning drive and then spend the worst part of the afternoon doing some packing up so that we could relax and enjoy our last evening in this gem of a camp.

We decided to do the S39 towards Timbavati Picnic Spot then head across to the S90, doen the S42 and up the S100 for the last time before heading back to Maroela.

The S39 is a lovely drive but my gosh m- THE CONDITION OF THE ROAD WAS HORRIFIC which is such a pity. We did not see much but nevertheless took a really slow drive and soaked up the atmosphere along the Timbavati River.

This Brown-hooded Kingfisher presented me with a great opportunity to take a photograph



A little way further along the route we saw this Kudu family





This Secretary Bird seemed to be having a bit of trouble at "lift off "time



The plains along the S90 are certainly Cheetah country. These four were in no mood to move - we watched for ages as they relaxed on this earth embankment





One of them eventually got up and moved to a spot in the shade



The S100 was uncharacteristically quiet. We did see this Imm Fish Eagle which was a first for us as well as the inquisative Waterbuck





Sadly it was time to start the packing up but we were really pleased with our stay at Maroela BUT..... to be continued

DAY 16

Before I carry on with the trip report just a few stories, reports and incidents that took place during our stay -

1. Those of you who visit this camp will know that the Honey Badgers can be quite a nuisance at night. One can hear the rubbish bins knocked over all the time. We were aware of this problem as well as that of the Baboons so each morning and evening we diligently stored all tempting fare in the trailer or else strapped the ammo boxes and cooler boxes tight shut with rachet straps. On one of the nights we heard a commotion in our tent extension and clearly a cooler box was being attacked by Mr HB. SO suddenly realized that she had left a few eggs in the cooler box and had forgotten to strap it shut ! It was pitch dark so I put on the headlight and looked through the mesh door and sure enough the HB was in the cooler box making light work of the eggs. No problem I thought and shouted at the HB to get lost. I was standing against the mesh door, a mere metre or two from the cooler box. Well before I could blink the HB launched itself at me from within the cooler box hitting the mesh with all fours. I got the fright of my life and dived for cover much to the amusement of SO. Before I could regain my senses I could hear the HB finishing off the eggs! The reason that SO got the giggles was because I was in my birthday suit throughout this "ordeal" and knowing the ferocity of these Honey Badgers she thought that I had presented the Badger with the perfect target. Lesson learnt - never chase off a HB whilst in your birthday suit!

2. The evening evening when the Ellies visited the river bed in front of us presented the perfect opportunity for a few decent photographs. In my haste I tried to position my camera between the wires of the electric fence to get the perfect shot. Well this back fired badly - I touched one of the wires and I tell you what - I got the shock of my life. It felt as though my heart actually stopped for a few moments. It took me a while to find the camera agin - some 5 metres from where I was standing. Fotunately it was not damaged. Once again SO thought this was hilarioius!

3. Now for a gripe or two. It appeared as though the camp attendant was not very good about closing the gate at night. This causes two problems. Firstly a couple of the clever guys in the camp made a habit of leaving camp half an hour early on some mornings which was rarther annoying. Secondly what would happen if a Hyena or Leopard strolled into camp during the wee hours of the morning?

4. Now for the children debate and it would be really good to hear the views of others here. I wioll relay two experinces that I had - one good and one bad. I will then try to make a rational judgement about children and the park.

There were three families camping together near us and between them they had 6 children all under the age of about 5 years. In all my life I have never experienced anything like what happened here. These kids screamed from 05h00 in the morning until well after their bedtime. It seemed as though with each step they took they had to shout. They ran all over the place showing scant respect for anybody else's space, they climbed all over the viewing deck as though it was a jungle gym and not once were they ever asked to keep quiet by the parents. Heaven only knows how they could tolerate this racket. During our stay we visited Nwanetzi on one of the days and blow me down , the family road show was there. These kids dashed up and down the walkway which goes up to the viewpoint with dad video taping the circus! The visitors at Nwanetzi were all clearly irritated. That afternoon SO had had enough and asked the parents to please consider the peace and quiet of the park and to respect the fellow campers. She got a blank stare and things improved briefly until the tops got wound up again. When they left (after 3 days) the most amazing peace decended on the camp site!

The second scenario is very different. Whilst in the shower at Tsendze one evening I overheard the most amazing conversation taking place in the adjoining shower between a father and his young son (about 4 or 5 years old.) This youngster was asking his father a million and one questions about the birds and animals that they had seen during the day. He even knew the names of most of the creatures that they had seen. Dad's answers were well thought out and clearly he was educating his child about the wonders of nature and the little boy was lapping it up. The next day a White-faced Scops Owl was spotted in the camp and of course it drew the usual hordes of onlookers. I was there and overheard this same little chap telling his friends not to get to close to the owl because they would disturb its sleep. He went on to tell them that owls hunt at night etc etc. How special this was.

NOW those are real life stories of what I would call the good and bad of children in the Park. How does one get a balanced view of this. On the one hand we had a young boy soaking up the the park experience and I have no doubt that for the rest of his life he will be a nature lover of note. The other hooligans on the other hand would only see the park as a place to spend a holiday and to enjoy themselves at the expense of fellow nature lovers and all that God created for us in these wilderness areas. Could these noisy, inconsiderate kids not be the same as the other lad - interested in all that is around them. Of course they could if only the parents were prepared to educate them about nature so here I would put the onus on parents.

I am not against seeing young children in the park but it would be my wish to see one or two of the camp sites / restcamps limiting the ages of children. This may seem selfish but I do think that at my age I should also be entitled to enjoy the peace and quiet that I pay for. The camps where children are allowed should provide good educational talks, games and other fun activties that will stimulate the interest of young children in the wonders of nature so that hopefully one day they will appreciate all that is around them in great parks such as Kruger.

This topic has no doubt been discussed on numerous ocassions but I would be intersting to have some constructive debate around this sensitive topic. We need to be able to create a win win situation here

DAY 16 continued

We were soon packed up and ready to depart for Pretoriuskop for the night. Somewhere along the H7 we saw this Bateleur sunning itself on the far side of the Timbavati River. We had not seen many Bateleurs on this trip so a good time for a pic



When we reached Nsemani Dam we found this Fish Eagle scanning the water for his breakfast







South of Satara we stopped off at the lovely Nkaya Pan (I hope I have the name correct). This is a truly lovely spot to spend some time. Unfortunately we did not have that luxury but nevertheless saw quite a bit of action during our short visit









All of a sudden the small herd of Impala who had been drinking peacefully bolted and disappeared - we thought that we were in luck and that a predator would pitch up at the waterhole - well no such luck but not sure what caused the alarm

DAY 16 continued...

Thank myou all for your interest and constructive comments - I suppose the "children" debate could go on forever...

We continued down to Tshokwane where we took a bit of a break. The water level from the flood is hard to believe. I overheard somebody saying that the Lugmag Dam had burst hence all the water....is this true?

The drive down to Skukuza was interupted by this huge herd of daggaboys



This LBR posed nicely with its catch



This Blacksmith Lapwing was in the Sand River and the White-helmit Shrike near the Skukuza day visitor's area





A brief stop at the day visitors area was very welcome (very hot so ice cream welcome despite its price!!)

This Saddle-billed Stork was having a drink at the de Laporte waterhole



The road across to Pretoriuskop was very quiet. The area around the Transport dam was badly burnt but this did not stop these Impala from slaking their thirst. They are certainly on the alert whilst drinking



These Ground Hornbills were in the road near the entrance to PK.



This fellow certainly has eyelashes to die for..



Check-in went smoothly. We had a quick rest before setting out in search of the resident Wild Dogs which had set up house in the koppies near the camp.

DAY 16 continued...

A very rowdy Helmetted Guineafowl put an end to our siesta. This fellow was perched in the tree right outside our rondavel and certainly made its presnce heard



We drove out to the S8 and headed south to the Hyena den that is right next to the road. The family was at home but unfortunately the little ones played hide and seek with us.





WE thern headed back to the "wild dog" koppie, drove around the koppie seeing only this raptor which I suspect is a Tawny Eagle



We had a bit of time on our hands so we stopped at a spot where we thought the wild dogs might appear. Our patience was soon rewarded with a number of brief glimpses of the pups playing amongst the rocks on the top of the koppie. It was impossible to take photos because they were moving around all the time. A while later the family appeared in a clearing up the slope which afforded me the opportunity to get these pics







A few pups then made an appearance - this one was soon put in its place by one of the adults



These WD certainly had chosen a great spot for their den - I imagine that thousands of similar photos to these have been taken !

That brought an end to our last afternoon in Kruger - it would be "home James" tomorrow. We had a quiet sundowner at the pool before lighting our braai fire. This had been a great trip which left many fond memories with us. Maybe we would see something special on our short drive down to Numbi gate tomorrow......

FINAL MORNING

We were up nice and early because we had a long trip to Golden Gate ahead of us. We decided to go via the "Wild Dog Koppie" hoping to catch one final glimpse of the painted dogs. This beautiful sunrise greeted us us we drove up the hill



Alas, the wild dogs were still asleep and we could not sit and wait for them - it is amazing how the Kruger refuses to let you go because we kept prolonging the inevitable journey home! We drove off quietly, both saying our goodbyes to this wonderland. We were in sombre mood when we reached the H1-1 junction . All of a sudden SO called out "Whats that!" Would you believe it right next to us behind the road marker was a magnificent Cheetah



We followed it as it walked through the burnt vegetation







Very soon 5 jeep jockeys arrived which was a huge irritation for us . Fortunately the cheetah soon disappeared into the bush because there was no way that we were going to drag ourselves away from this sighting. We drove the last km or two down to Numbi gate with huge smiles on our faces - WHAT A SEND-OFF!

We checked out and very soon reality set in - we were back in the civilized jungle.
Until next time good bye and thanks for joining us on our trip .