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Thursday, October 13
Nossob to Grootkolk

This morning we take our time before leaving. There is a very curious mongoose sneaking around between our spot and the neighbor's. We are ready to leave at 7:00. As I open the gate to let us out, I notice lion tracks where I am standing. Cool. Some folks must have had an interesting night at the hide while we were sleeping. We head north to Grootkolk and we are very excited about the next 2 nights there.

Yellow mongoose




On the road we see the usual, but not much is going on at the water holes. At Bedinkt we see our first black-shouldered kite, some ostrich and a couple kori bustards. The day gets very hot and game is quite scarce. We follow the road grader for a little ways and then after that, we see no other cars.

Handsome ostrich


Ground agama


Red hartebeest in the shade


We arrive in the Grootkolk area too early for check-in so we continue our drive northward. Just south of Union's End we come upon a kill. There are many vultures, we see lappet-faced and white-backed types. We discover a male lion has died and the vultures are there to finish the cycle. It's a little saddening. We head up to Union's End to sign the book and celebrate our journey. It's so beautiful and remote there, hot, silent but for the whisper of the wind. In all directions, nothing, yet everything.

Union's End


Me and Jan


Franco welcomes us to Grotkolk and we are given #2 for the next two nights. We are right in front of the waterhole and Grootkolk exceeds every expectation. Janet loves the outdoor kitchen and I love the bird fountains. I can't keep them filled! As soon as they are empty I fill them up. Please bear with me because the next days of pictures have lots of bird bath antics.

Red-headed finch


Red-headed finch and sociable weavers






It's a thirsty day and we relax and watch the waterhole. Not much happens in the late afternoon. We have a couple springboks stop by, many birds, and a very skittish BBJ. We never did determine what he was afraid of, maybe he was trying to warn us of tomorrow?

Springboks at the waterhole


A very skittish BBJ


And the day ends


The light at the waterhole didn't work too well this evening, so our watching was cut short. Some creature did come in that we never could determine what it was. Janet thought it was a porcupine, I thought maybe a brownie. We never did figure it out.

Friday, October 14
2nd day and night at GK

We get up early to watch our Grootkolk waterhole. Our neighbors are up early also and out the gate at 6:00. So. What might we see when we sit drinking morning coffee on our patio at Grootkolk? Some birds? Yes. Some lions? Of course. At 6:01 we have some visitors.





























Janet, did your coffee get cold? Poor thing. How 'bout a second cup?

Friday, October 14 second cup of coffee
For our second cup of coffee from our Grootkolk patio, how about we watch some red hartebeest battle to the death? (or almost).























We need to go Janet, finish your coffee and get organized please.

The big excitement dies down around 9AM and we have a shyer visitor, a side-striped jackal, our first. The birds continue to drink up the water at our feeder and I have the chance to photograph a very beautiful violet-eared waxbill.

Our first side-striped jackal


Violet-eared waxbill




Around 9:30 we decide to drive to Union's End to see what there is to see.

Secretary bird


We have been told there are meekkats a couple Km's from the camp, so we drive north looking for them. Janet is a good spotter, but I have to tell her STOP. Where she asks? And her focus is off the road. Right there, I say, as the little suricate is looking at her right next to the car. We have a nice opportunity to watch a group hunt and carry on in their amusing manner.

Meerkat


















Next time we will make plans to stay at Gharagab. This area is amazing.

Road to Gharagab


Bokkies resting in shade


Our neighbors told us there are a couple lionesses sleeping just south of the Union's End waterhole and sure enough, we spot two sleeping in the shade. One picks her head up for a quick photo opportunity. We'll check them later as we complete our drive to Union's End.

Lionesses just before Union's End


BBJ


On our way back to camp we check the lionesses again and find one is a little more alert. She is watching the birds fly overhead on their way to the waterhole.

Lioness




We make it back to enjoy the rest of the afternoon in this favorite camp. It is the best.

Black-faced waxbill


Franco says to be on the alert for the lanner falcon which usually picks off a grouse from the waterhole each afternoon. Sure enough, the falcon shows up around 5:30 and we watch eagerly. Blast, and just like that, she hits a grouse and the hunt is over. She carries the grouse off to the side and proceeds to pick it apart. Amazing!

Lanner with kill


What a spectacular day this was. I don't know when I will be back, but I know I will someday.

Sunset

Saturday, October 15
Jan gets up around 5:15 AM for a water hole check. Lions! Mobilization in seconds, but it is definitely too dim for pictures. There is one male, 2 lionesses and 3 cubs, probably the group we saw yesterday plus a couple extras. We watch as the day progresses and the light allows us some pictures.

Mother and little one


The pride approaches the cottages and #1 is their focus. Our neighbors are still sleeping. The lions settle down in front of the fence. Now we hear a toilet flush from #1. Next we see Mr. walk out, scratching his rear and yawning to greet the day. Padding barefoot out to the world, yikes! There's some lions 10 feet away! Priceless.

In front of the lodging




One of the little ones is fascinated with a blue bird feeder. He wants it so bad and paws and scrapes to get it. Mama grunts to settle him down and he returns to her. They go out of sight past #1, who have a full view. Lucky ones. The lions leave after a bit and we watch them head off.

Little prince






King


So is this what happens every morning at Grootkolk? We have to leave today, but decide to watch what the morning has to offer. Before too long, a newcomer appears. This brown hyena is so shy.

Highly cropped brownie










We heard the sounds of hyenas off in the distance this morning, not too far away. While the brownie was still lurking, 3 spotted hyenas showed up. They approached the waterhole, but never did have the courage to come in to drink. They left as we began packing.

Spotted hyena

Hello all again, I've been very delinquent. I had a wonderful trip to Kruger in December, it was awesome. I was told I needed to finish my TR or they would lock it down. I have lots of interesting images to share, so I guess I better get with it. There are SO MANY TRs going on now. I can't keep up. But I will try to finish mine. Thanks for reading and all your comments.


After our exciting morning with the lions and hyenas, we finish our packing for our return to Nossob. Franco stops us as we head out of Grootkolk and tosses a load of laundry in the back. You were such a great guy, Franco, we'd help you anyway we could. As we turn away from the camp towards the main road, guess what? Our morning lions didn't get too far. There were 5 we could spot, lying in the shrubs.

The king, again.






We enjoy the drive back to Nossob, taking in the riverbed landscapes, animals resting in the shade and take stock of the waterholes. On October 15, 2011:
Union's End - water
Kannaguass - dry
Lijersdraii - water
Polentswa water
Kousant - water
Langklass - closed
Bedinkt - water
Kwang - moist, muddy
Cubitje Quap - water

Common fiscal




2 jackals at Lijersdraii


We stop for breakfast at Lijersdraii Picnic Site.

Marico flycatcher or common chat


We are overrun with Meandering Mice. There were at least 50 at one time, moving in like little birds. The most important one was missing. Everywhere we look there are mice meandering. It is like Alfred Hitchcock, The Birds, only at Lijersdraii, it is The Meandering Mice.


Speaking of little birds...


Steenbok


Fawn-colored Lark


Wildebeest at Kwang


Lappet-faced Vulture


Secretary Bird and friends


We arrive back at Nossob and settle in. Jan is acting like a squirrel after her days at Grootkolk. Can I bring her back to her human form in time for braii with Duke and Sharifa tonight?



We head out again at 2PM for an afternoon drive South. We keep our eyes out for yellow ribbons, just in case. We see a pair of martial eagles, the usual suspects along the riverbed.


Kaspersdraii
What's up?


BBJs


We complete our day with a wonderful braii with wonderful people, Duke and Sharifa. We exchange stories and get some hints about sightings on the other side of the park. They have some awesome pictures of cheetahs and we are excited to be heading in a new direction tomorrow. Tomight we saw how experts braii-- lambchops, chicken, sausage, and pot bread. I loved the pot bread. We can't get it in America, the kind in the mix. I'd love a good recipe that cooks right on the grill. PM me if you have a recipe to share. Thanks Duke and Sharifa, it was truly a pleasure.

Sunday, October 16

Good morning, South Africa!


Today we will journey to Bitterpan. Bitterpan can only be accessed by a 4x4 trail leaving from Nossob. Here is the hide at Nossob, yes, the webcam is there. This is what it looks from the outside.



We need to gauge our driving time to Bitterpan, so we can't leave Nossob too early. So, we have some time in the morning to head out on drive, and once again we head South. Along the road we can see lion tracks, then just before Rooiputs we can see where some animal has dragged some other animal across the road. At Rooiputs we see lions on the ridge, very far off. Not a great shot, but we are always thankful to see these big cats.

6 lions on ridge


We see other usuals, and turn to the left on the loop to Marie se grat. There are some cars parked ahead and we excitedly pull up to scan the ridge. The others say there are cheetah along in the brush, but we don't see them. I look up on the ridge and scan with my binoculars. I see 'something' far off. I take a picture, but the cat is so far away. We can't decide what it is I saw, but I will let you look at these cropped shots and offer your guesses. Please help me out. If it is a leopard you see, it will be the only one this trip. If it is a cheetah the others had caught a glimpse of, well, you will see some more cheetah pictures from me coming from the other side of the park.







One of the birds I was hoping to see, and now I can tick it off. Pygmy falcon.


As we head back north, Jan spots this Pearl Spotted Owlet in the tree near the Nossob hide. We continue heading north, killing time.


We spot a black-chested snake eagle eating something with a tail, snake or lizard, only the bird's gizzard knows for sure.


We return to Nossob. We had met Duke and Sharifa on the road. They had an extraordinary tale of seeing honey badgers this morning. Duke was sympathetic about my cat dilemma, he said that when we got to the other side, the area was "teeming" with cheetahs. Wow. Teeming. That sounds promising.



To access the Bitterpan road, you must first check with the ranger at Nossob. Someone will unlock the gate that proceeds from the camping area. You have a set amount of time to reach Bitterpan before someone comes out to check on you. As it turns out, on this day we were the only vehicle on the road.



The earth and sky were wide open for us today.


This was our toughest climb. It doesn't look it, but you needed a lot of momentum to crest the top. Upon further discussion with the other guests, no one made it up the first time. Janet took how many times? I tried to keep her quiet, but she proudly stated, I hit it on the 6th try. Jan would put the bakkie in gear and we could only reach the top if we were screaming as loud as we could. We didn't see many animals.





But, we made it. Bitterpan


Bitterpan was very nice, but when we got there, 3 other groups were already there from the day before and in the heat of the afternoon, were taking naps. We felt very awkward arriving and making the noise of checking in. Also, the place is very hot in the afternoon. But the showers were awesome. We enjoyed Bitterpan and had a lively discussion around the fire with the rest of the guests. Very nice stay.



And then there was the night sky…

Monday, October 17
Bitterpan to KTC

Today we drive the dune road out from Bitterpan. We'll be staying at the Kalahari Tented Camp. We've heard so much about this camp we are excited to be on our way. I notice tracks when I go out to the truck. Leopard! They are all over the camp. The set of tracks goes directly under our unit and comes out the other side. Oh, what the darkness hides.



It's not without little nervousness we pack the vehicle and head out by 6:30 with laundry for Mata Mata.





We come across a bat-eared fox hiding very conspicuously. I know the little fox thought it was being clever, but really, we can see you!



We see many steenboks along the way, gemsbok, ostriches, flocks of canaries, the funny backwards birds. We tick off ant-eating chat for our lists. Both the waterholes on the way are out of commission.

One of the many steenboks


Group of gemsbok








We find another pair of bat-eared foxes


These birds don't look right, plus they make some crazy sounds. We called them the backwards birds.

Northern black korhaan


Tsamma melons


We start heading down out of the dunes and we cross the Auob around 9:30 AM. There's definitely a change in the flora and fauna.

Lilac breasted roller


Swallow tailed bee eater


Janet spots a little head off in the distance. Definitely a cheetah. Yay, our first one. I still wouldn't say the area is teeming with them, but this is a good start. We mark the location and will return later.



We stop at Sitzas and agree this is a nice location. As we enjoy the shade, another vehicle pulls up and comments on our mirror, are those ribbons or is your mirror falling apart? we are asked. This turns out to be Lionspoon and SO. It is their first day in the park and they have already had a beautiful leopard sighting this morning. I am envious, they have the full time of their trip ahead and we are approaching the end. Good luck we say, as we go our separate ways. It was nice to meet you.

The springboks have been giving birth during October and we notice some really little ones.



This group of ostriches has appeared in numerous trip reports from others who visited during this timeframe. They were quite adult looking, but I think they were still a young family group. I took a lot of photos before I got all their heads up. Janet would say "now" and I'd click and miss. "Now", click and miss. You get the picture.

Now!


At KTC we are assigned #7. It is awesome, high on the hillside directly overlooking the waterhole. It is not at all what I expected from the pictures, but it is much better. Grootkolk was our favorite, KTC is my second. I've got to come back.

The kitchen is a separate unit from the tent.


Looking to the left from 7


Green-winged pytilia


We head out again around 2PM for our afternoon drive and to check the cheetah's location from earlier. We stop at Mata Mata for a few goods and meet Jacliz, a forumite who is staying in Mata Mata and heading to KTC to join a family group. Nice to meet you Jacliz, I hope you had wonderful sightings.

Wildebeest


Jan and I are driving the roads enjoying everything when she stops and says what the heck? She's looking forward while I am looking to the side so I'm not paying attention up ahead. She pulls over to the right side of the road when I look ahead. There is a car driving towards us slowly, which I immediately see, then it occurs to me something is walking in front of the car. A lion!! We stay put and watch as the lion plods slowly along, closer and closer. I can't take pictures because he is in front of me (not supposed to lean out of the window you know), but I snap off one or two through the dirty windshield. Closer and closer and and he finally meets with our car and I notice Janet is pulling on my shirt, roll up your window!!! but I don't and watch as the old man scrapes along the side of our vehicle and under my (open) window, then on and off the road. I don't know if I was breathing, but it was a magnificent moment. The old man had seen better days, but I have to say he thrilled me and Jan.

Closer and closer


And then he moves off the road


We eventually see him again later in the day at Craig Lockhart where he had drawn quite a crowd. He was showing them how well he can sleep.

I love this area. There's a lot going on. We see our share of black-shouldered kites, young ones, mating ones. They are elegant with their red eyes and contrasting plumage.



Black-chested snake eagle




As we make our way back to camp we pass near the location of the cheetah Jan had seen before. We stop and admire a large herd of bokkies and willies.



Jan cries out, look and back on the other side of the riverbed she points out our cheetah carrying a small bokkie.


We can see her sitting and hear her calling. Soon, 2 young show up along with a jackal. The 2 young ones pounce and play with the bokkie while mom watches. All on the far side…



Very exciting but not what I would call a close encounter, like our lion encounter earlier. Wow. We come across 2 jackals hunting and jumping, very amusing but I could not photograph. We are back at camp just by 6. KTC is a great camp and we enjoyed our braii.

End of the day

Tuesday, October 18
KTC and surrounds

After days in the bush, we start letting ourselves go a bit…there was no hot water last night or this morning, so why bother showering and getting dressed for our drive this morning? Wait… that doesn't sound right! Let me re-phrase, why bother changing out of our PJs? We had luck in Kruger on a PJ drive, maybe we'll have similar luck this time. So with coffee in hand, we are out at 6. We see wildebeest, some springboks with young ones, and a group of gemsbok with a young one. Off in the far distance we see some bat-eared foxes. The day is cloudy.

Young gemsbok




Young springboks


Young wildebeest


A little ways down the road, we spot our cheetah mum on the other side of the Auob.



She has 2 cubs with her and she directs them to the middle of the riverbed where they lay down in the grass.

One of the cubs




Mum also lays down and appears very nonchalant to her surroundings.


They are still for about 5 minutes when mum decides to regains a purpose and begins to slowly walk down the riverbed.



She continues down the riverbed, with a little stop and go action. It's becoming clear to us she is in a stalking mode, but we don't yet see the game she is interested in. Her little ones have all sunk into invisibility into the grasses. We've been watching her for 15 minutes now. She's moving forward but we can't tell she is moving she is so smooth.





Watch this, little ones, and learn..




At that point I nervously break my camera focus away from the cheetahs to see what's happening down the riverbed. There is a herd of springboks approaching and a mother and her young one have become separated due to the harassment of a BBJ. The BBJ is trying to get the baby it looks like. The whole herd's attention is centered on the young impala and the BBJ.



I almost miss mum as she springs into action.




And then it's all over.


The BBJ is not happy with the outcome.






The brekkie, I mean bokkie is carried off to the far side of the river where I presume it provides a nurishing meal for the trio. There is such an abundance of little bokkies for these predators I wonder how any of springboks survive. We look at the herds with a different eye now and count the young ones. There don't seem to be as many as before. It's only 8AM. Time to continue on as we reflect upon what we have witnessed. This was definitely a lesson of the bush.

Thanks to all for your continued patience and comments. I thank you for reading this report. I just returned from a 12 day trip to the Galapagos. WOW! It's kind of like visiting Kruger but in a boat. I now have another kind of fever. What a wonderful world we live in!!

Here's my latest update.

Tuesday, October 18, cont'd
KTC and surrounds

The black-shouldered kites are still occupying the territory and we make a stop at Dalkeith. There we are surprised by a herd of kudus. What a nice surprise!




Off in the distance, relaxing in the shade, Jan spies a cheetah. The cheetah is very far away, so we continue down the road a ways. We come upon 2 tawny eagles. I'm not sure if they were in a pre-mating mode or fighting mode. They were really mixing it up though.







We decide to head back for lunch and stop by Dalkeith to see if the cheetah is showing any activity, and yes! The cheetah has gotten up from the shade and is slowly moving toward the waterhole, and then a crouch and a sprint. We see a second cheetah kill! It is over before we can react. She takes the little bokkie back up the hill where she had some youngsters waiting. Around 2PM we head back out. We stop to admire this handsome young wildebeest.



And then I notice something strange. Janet, I say, there's a bokkie getting ready to give birth. She is searching with the binoculars. Where? she wants to know. Put the binocs down, she is right next to us. The time is 2:34PM.





Mama is restless, but before too much time elapses, she lays down. The birth progresses while we watch in amazement.







Almost immediately, the little one attempts to stand.











After much effort, the little one has succeeded in stabilizing itself and can move from the shade to the sun where the sun quickly dries the babe and makes it a bit more presentable.



The time is 3:24PM, a mere 50 minutes have passed since we first noticed the impending birth.



Life and death. As voyeurs, we have been mesmerized by both. Absolutely amazing. We continue on with the usual suspects. I notice largish hoof prints in the road and we decide they are eland. Unfortunately they climb up the dune and we never get a chance to see these elusive animals. Jan sees a cape cobra cross the road, but I miss it. Outside of Veertiende WH we find the barn owl nest Sharifa told us about. Thanks Sharifa. No babies to be seen, but the mother (or father) is home.



We make it as far as Dertiende WH before turning back. This is a very nice waterhole with water, but nothing much was happening. On the way back we find a spotted eagle owl in the shade of a tree.



And then we are back at KTC to enjoy the sunset and the wonderful atmosphere of this very favorite camp.

Wednesday, October 19
KTC to Urikaruus

Our days are numbered now. Today we are on the road to Urikaruus. And home. Sadly, we are up early and head to Mata Mata. In fun, this is our "beginning". We begin to sing from 'The Song of Music", let's start at the very beginning, a very good place to start…



I am missing my dogs, and I can't get enough of the BBJs. This one looks like Daisy, my little girl dog.



We see a lone giraffe on the plains outside Mata Mata.



We have heard of this pair from other travelers, but until today we have been unable to locate them. Here is the Verreaux's eagle owl and little one.



And then we come upon our mom cheetah and her 2 cubs. Clearly, she has a favorite as we noticed on the other days. One of the cubs was not interested much in what was happening.









At Dalkeith, we found a scops hidden in the brush, I got some pictures, but they aren't all that great, then at Vertiende Boorgat, we found a few more giraffes. Some bat-eared foxes played off in the distance. The barn owl still maintained the weaver nest. We continued on to Urikaruus.





We came across the hyena mum and cubs off in the distance, near Uri, but they were so far away. Soon we were arriving at Uri.



This fox had 2 kits near the Uri huts, we watched in dismay as one died…we never did see the killer but I expect a snake of some sort bit the youngster. It was not a nice sighting.



Time is getting short and we will be leaving soon.



At one point, we found 3 different owls in 3 adjacent trees.





And a barn owl, the picture only shows a clear eye, so I skip.

And that's it. We made it back to the States, I had a stroke, and then travelled back to Kruger in December. I'm not certain I will do another trip report for that one, but maybe. KTP was an awesome experience, one I hope to revisit. Thanks for reading.

My sister truly is a great story teller and photographer. I'm glad she was along to document this trip. I become too mesmerized to even take action with a camera and just simply absorb the moment with my entire being. And since we humans (especially me) can have such short memories, it is so good to have a photo with the accompaning dialogue that takes you right back to that moment and one can re-live all the sensory perceptions that accompanied it. Beautifully done, Nancy.

See you on Friday, my sister, we gather to celebrate our Dad's 90th birthday. Our parents are the driving force for us to get out and enjoy all that our United States and all the rest of this BIG WONDERFUL WORLD offers.

Janet

Thank you all for your comments and patience. I kind of lost track of time for a while and let the TR slip. Since KTP I've been to Kruger and I haven't even looked at those pictures. I'll post a trip report on that AFTER I've finished...no waiting.

I'm lucky to be in good health and look forward to another trip to SA in the future with my good old sister Janet. Hope to see some of you again and some of you for the first time.

I assume this TR will be archived sooon, so until the next time, farewell.

Nancy