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DAY 9 continued...

Right at the northern turn-off to the 14 de Boorgat loop a movement caught our eye under a tree directly in front of us. On closer inspection we first saw nothing in the long grass and then all of a sudden this beautiful lady sat up - and there was blood on her face. She stared at us for a while and then bent down and picked up a Sprinbok that she had killed. This had most likely happened while we were at Mata Mata. The Cheetah had a collar on so I assume it was the same one that I had seen yesterday. She was very skittish and kept looking back towards the dunes. We watched for a while before moving on - what a good sighting which we had all to ourselves.







Further down near the Hyena den we came across this Secretary Bird sitting on top of a tree - we assumed that it had a nest or was in the process of building a nest because its mate was on the ground close by



This Bat-eared Fox was determined to get hold of a meal - it is interesting to watch them tilting their heads to listen for movement underground. As soon as they hear something they frantically dig in an attempt to find their prey. Their huge ears are obviously key to this operation



The Hyenas had made an appearance - mom and cubs were out enjoying the evening sunshine outside their den near the Urikaruus waterhole





We had had a great day with really good sightings but could it get better? Well it certainly did. As we drove in to Urikaruus I peeped through under the cabins to see if there was anything at the waterhole and could not believe my eyes - there was a Leopard drinking . We dashed up to our balcony and were treated to this







What a treat. The Leopard drank its fill and slowly moved on doen the valley. Could it get any better? Well yes! This Leopard had hardly disappeared when another Leopard came strolling down the valley to the waterhole. We could not believe that this was actually happening!. This one seemed a bit nervous because it had a quick drink in the fading light and headed off in the same direction as the first one . PHEW







That was a day to remember. The amazing thing to us was that we had only had one Lion sighting thus far. Would the Kalahari continue to deliver - we trusted that it would as long as we danced with the stars.

DAY 10

This morning we decided to take a short drive in a southerly direction towards Kamqua where we would have breakfast. It was great not seeing any other traffic on the road for well over an hour!

This Purple Roller was enjoying the early morning sunshine



The calcrete slopes of the Auob between Montrose and Batulama were busy this morning. Here we saw Gemsbok, a Lanner Falcon and a Slender Mongoose







We made good time so decided to continue all the way down to Houmoed before turning back. This raptor was perched in a grey camelthorn near Monroe waterhole. My guess is that this is a Brown Sake Eagle





Before reaching Kamqua for our stop we saw this Greater Kestrel and a pair of Secretary Birds who treated us to an amazing "courtship dance"

DAY 10 continued...

We spent the middle portion of the day relaxing at Urikaruus. I took the opportunity to get a few pics of this great wilderness camp. Here is unit number 1





The top section is the bedroom/bathroom which has a tiny balcony leading off it. We did not use this very much. The bottom section is the living area with a fair sized balcony on which the braai is positioned. The view over the waterhole as well as the view up and down the Auob is stunning





These units do get very cold in winter as experienced by us and I should imagine they can get very hot as well. The walls consist of a zinc/fibre glass material which does not insulate very well. Who cares about the temperature when staying at a place like this! There are always the resident Springbok rams hanging around the waterhole



The bird life around the camp also keeps one entertained. These Prinia and Drongo kept us company all day. The Drongo had a running battle with a Crimson-breasted Shrike - seemed to be competing for the same insects.







The Bat-eared Foxes were very active on our afternoon drive - particularly between Urikaruus and 13de Boorgat waterholes. They were really digging up a storm before sitting down for a family potrait







The ever-present Giraffe were once again in the vicinity of 13de Boorgat

DAY 10 continued...

Near Dalkeith we had a lovely sighting of this Giant Eagle Owl. It was very dozy, opening its eyes from time to time. You will notice blood on its beak - no doubt a result of its meal which appears to be a Pale Chanting Goshawk. You can see the leg on the branch. The owl was constantly being harassed by two PCG but did not seem to be too concerned. I guess they were not happy with this fellow's meal!







It did amaze me that a number of visitors stopped had a look at this owl, looked totally disinterested and simply drove off!

We turned back at dalkeith and were fortunate to see more Bat-eared Foxes and the baby Hyena who had popped out of the den.





During the course of the evening we saw an African Wild cat (using the spot light) go down to the waterhole for a drink. Tonight we snored whilst the stars danced - it was our last night at Urikaruus

DAY 11

We were indeed sad to pack up but at least we could take our time this morning because our next stop was Kieliekrankie which is just down the road. We were packed up and gone by about 09h30 and ready for a slow drive down to Auchterlonie. Readers will have noticed that we had by now had 11 days in KTP and had only had one brief sighting of Lion! We had been lucky with a number of really gofs sightings of other predators but I have to admit that we were getting a bit worried that we were going to miss out on the black-maned king of KTP!

This Lanner Falcon was busy enjoying its meal at the Rooibrak waterhole - looks as though it had caught a Namaqua Dove for breakfast



We were really chuffed to see this Gabar Goshawk near Bataluma



The raptors were plentiful in this area with sightings of Black-shouldered Kite, Lanner Falcon and Bateleur







Just before reaching Auchterlonie we turned left onto the southern dune road to travel the 8km to Kieliekrankie - the wilderness camp that without any doubt must have the best view in the Kalahari. Apparently this camp has been built on the highest dune in the KTP. We were allocated No 4 and were soon unpacked and soaking up the view on the deck.



We had just cracked open a cold beer when Hendrik, the camp attendant, knocked on our door to tell us that two Lions had been seen at the Kij Gamies waterhole which was about 12km away along the dune road. The time was about 13h00 which was not the ideal time to go game viewing but what bthe heck - WE HAD NOT SEEN A BLACK MANE YET! We had no hesitation in heading off in pursuit of these Lions. On arrival at Kij Gamies we saw two vehicles parked up on the viewpoint above the waterhole which was an indication that they had seen these Lions. Sure enough there were two huge Lions down below us doing what Lions do best at this time of day - sleeping and certainly in no mood to move!



We sat there for about an hour before deciding to go back to camp for a break with the intention of returning later in the afternoon when it would be cooler. This was no doubt a gamble but it did pay off. When we returned they were a bit more active and we could only but marvel at the size and beauty of these two lions. Here are a few pics of the Lions as they yawned, scratched and shuffled around









Whilst waiting for some more action from the Lions we saw this Heron arriving at the waterhole - still wonder what they were doing in this thirstland - are they not water birds!



Here is a pic of the Kij Gamies waterhole taken from the viewpoint



These fellows had certainly had a good siesta and were really battling to wake up - looks as though a few fleas were bothering one of the big fellows





By the time we had to move to get back to camp before the deadline they still had not moved off. On the way back we witnessed yet another perfect Kalahari sunset - the perfect end to yet another great day in Africa

DAY 12

We decided to travel through to Kij Kij waterhole from where we would head south to Leeudril waterhole via Rooiputs. The first section of this road runs on the Botswana side, crossing bach to SA at Rooiputs. Vehicles with high clearance are essential here but no 4x4 required. We were looking forward to this because it would be a first time for us.

We were hoping to find our Lions at Kij Gamies but they had moved off. These Kori Bustards were patrolling the dunes near Kij Kij



These Bat-eared Foxes gave us a quick look before disappearing over the dunes



At Kij Kij, which had no water in it, we found these BBJs who did appear to be charming each other up somewhat





The two-spoor track down to Rooiputs was very quiet but really an interesting drive, having never been on it before. We were very surprised to see how busy it was - suppose all the Twee Rivieren - Nossob traffic uses this route now that it had been opened. Soon after getting onto the new road at Rooiputs we saw this Honey Badger on the far dune. It was interesting to see that he had Pale Chanting Goshawks and two BBJ following him up the dune. Unfortunately it was a bit far away but nevertheless a nice sighting.



We soon came across a massive herd of Springbok grazing on either side of the road and totally oblivious of the traffic. These fellows had a bit of a sparring match next to the road



This handsome young man posed for us



We turned for home at Leeudril and on the way saw this herd of thirsty Blue Wildebeest quenching their thirst at Rooiputs.



This is the view from the back of Kieliekrankie as you near the camp. Every picture tells a story!



We thoroughly enjoyed spending the middle part of the day on the deck simply enjoying this precious view together with the silence. SO decided to stay in for the afternoon drive so I headed off towards the Auob valley. There was not much action but I was indeed fortunate to get some really nice pics of these birds. The Crimson-breasted Shrike sat still for a change and whats more, the light was perfect. They are really a pain because they never sit still so getting this opportunity is quite rare. The Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters were very active in the late evening - there seemed to be plenty of flying "goggas" around for them to feed on











This magnificent sunset capped a lovely day in the Kalahari. Sights like this makes one feel Mamma Africa wrapping her blanket around you.

DAY 13

This is the view that greeted us from the back of our unit on our 13th day in KTP



We decided tpo head up the Auob as far as Kamqua from where we would follow the northern dune road towards Dikbaardskolk. What excitement we had soon after turning onto the dune road. We saw an animal crossing the road in the distamce and could not decide what it was. It sttod still for a moment before moving into the long grass next to the road and at that moment the tell tale tail gave it away - a leopard. We got to the point where it had disappeared as fast as we could but alas it had vanished. We drove backwards and forwards scanning the area but to no avail. A vehicle approached from the front and stopped to ask us what we had seen. We explained that aLeopard had gone into the grass right where they were parked - they gave a cursory glance in the general direction, thanked us and drove off. We could not believe their dis-interest!. Anyway when they were out of the way we noticed a sudden movement a mere 5m from the road side and there it was staring at us through the grass. The Leopard made a hasty getaway but then moved along parallel to the road allowing us a few good sightings. Who says the dune roads are quiet!









There was more action along this 50 km stretch. A Greater Kestrel was low flying ahead of us, a pair of Northern Korhaans made a noisy appearance and then there was another first for us - our first sighting of a snake in KTP. This Puffadder was slowly crossing the road which was an indication that summer was on its way.







About 1km from the T-junction at Dikbaardskolk we came across a pride of Lions. They were lying right next to the road but in a bit of a hollow so not easily seen. This beauty was keeping watch but would not make eye contact with us!



We stopped for a break at Dikbaardskolk and decided to head north to Nossob. This would make it a long day but our tails were up today - two predator sightings before breakfast. The road from the picnic site to Nossob had also been graded so we felt that it would be good to make use of this opportunity. The drive upp was quiet, we did Marie se Draai and then headed for Mossob. About 3km or so from the camp we had the most amazing sighting. A single Lioness had just killed a Gemsbok right next to the road and she had three cubs with her. Wow!. We spent at least an hour sitting watching the family interaction and later the Lioness feeding on the carcass. This was indeed special and whats more only one vehicle joined us while we were there.















This was a sighting that will be etched in our memories more many years to come.

DAY 13 continued...

We spent a while at Nossob - it had got really hot and we felt that there was no point in taking the long drive back to KK in this heat. The dive down to Dikbaardskolk was once again very uneventful - it is interesting to note that this stretch of road (we travelled it 5 times) was very quiet this year. Possibly just at the right place at the wrong time. This herd of Springbok were seen near Cheleka waterhole



We popped up the dune road to see if the Lions were still there and sure enough they were. They had, however, moved further away. We were horrified to see vehicle tracks from the road to where they had been lying earlier on - SOME IDIOTIC FOOL HAD DRIVEN OFF THE ROAD RIGHT UP TO THE LIONS AND HAD CLEARLY DISTURBED THEM! People like this should be banned from the parks for life.



We now had to make a decision - should we continue along the dune road to the Auob our carry on down the Nossob via Melkvlei and then along the southern dune road - we decided on the latter which turned pout to be a serious mistake. This stretch of road must rank as the worst road surface that I have ever travelled on. Really it was ridiculous. I would hate to know how many years it put on my vehicle. We eventually reached Melkvlei and were only too relieved to be able to get out and have a break from driving on these roads. We love this picnic spot so the heart beats soon returned to normal!



Our luck was really good today - just south of Kij Kij we saw this beaut





We returned to Kieliekrankie and spent the rest of the afternoon on the deck reflecting on was was certainly a lucky day 13 for us.

The cubs were really a treat. During 2009 we bumped into a lioness with three cubs in virtually the same spot - I wonder if this could be the same lioness? Unfortunately I only have a pic of the cubs so we can't do an ID of the lioness

Thanks for your help with regards to ID of the "black" raptor. I had a feeling that it would be a melanistic variety. In fact we saw another raptor, exactly the same, between Kij Kij and Rooiputs.

DAY 14

Sadly our final day had dawned - tomorrow we would be on our way to Mokala NP for 3 days. We decided to travel across to the Nossob and venture down as far a Leeudril or maybe further id we felt like it. The dune road was quiet. We had a good look out for the Lion that we saw near Kij Kij yesterday but to no avail. These Suricates were being very vigilant whilst enjoying the early morning sunshine.





We were stopped by a very friendly couple who told us that they had just seen two Giant eagle Owls sitting on the ground next to the raod about 3 km back. Well that would be an unusual sighting so SO and I combed the area backwards and forwards but without any luck. We eventually decided that we had been had! Another vehicle stopped us to ask if we had seen any "Leeus hier rond". We said no and asked if they had seen anything down towards Rooiputs. They casually told us that there were 3 Cheetah on the dunes just passed the Rooiputs waterhole. They were so matter-of-fact that we wondered if we were going to be conned again!
Not so - we spotted them but they were far away hence the poor quality of the photos



We only saw one of them - the others probably hidden behind the dune. This was a magnificent speciman. We waited for a while hoping that it would come down the dune but not to be.

We turned back at Leeudril and what do you know - we found the owls. These Spotted Eagle owls were sitting well concealed behind a bush against the calcrete ridge. Would this be normal behaviour? They were certainly well concealed.



Once back on the dunes we saw these Gemsbok - one glanced back at us as if to say goodbye!.



This is a typical KTP scene



This PCG was enjoying what was most likely a Striped Mouse for its midday meal

DAY 14 continued...

We saw a pair of Secretary Birds near Tierkop and then found no fewer than 7 Herons sitting on the windmill at Kij Gamies - wonder what they were doing there. You can't see all 7 in the pic - could not get an angle that would show all of them





Back at Kieliekrankie we decided to simply spend time on the deck soaking up the beauty of the Kalahari



We had a peep at the resident Barn Owl that was nesting behind the tank at No 3.



While having lunch on the deck we caught a brief glimpse of an African Wild Cat moving through the grass in front of our unit. Apparently this was Suzie, the resident AWC who has reared a number of litters of kittens under unit No 2

These birds visited us on the deck - the Bulbul helped itself to a fnice chunk of sweetcorn bread!







SO decided to stay in rather than do the afternoon drive so I headed off towards the Auob. There were no vehicles in sight which meant that I had my last afternoon in this unique piece of paradise alll to myself. These creatures of the Kalahari came out to bid me farewell

DAY 15

We were packed up and ready to leave on the stroke of 07h00 because we had a long trip down to Mokala NP. Ther quickest route out was down to Aucterlonie and on to Twee Rivieren. We decided to put the camera away and only stop for an exceptional sighting. Well Well Well just before we reached Houmoed watehole we saw this magnificent Lioness and her cub . The early morning light was perfect for great shots. The two of them were very interested in something in the distance. The lioness kept staring down the valley - looking quite agitated at times. The cub was a real show-off. I will let the pictures tell the story















This was one of those terrible situations - we could not waste time but could drag ourselves away. We had them all to ourselves! After a while we saw a vehicle approaching so decided to move on. Well the fun and games had only just begun - about 1km down the road we saw these two Lionesses walking up the valley. The one lady had a very mean look about her. Clearly they were heading up to join the first Lioness and her cub.





During all the excitement this pair of Pigmy Falcons perched right next to us - we had not seen any on the trip thus far



The Lionesses were in a hurry and moved up the valley swiftly. We took a deep breath, put away the camera and set sail for Twee Rivieren. BUT this decision was premature because trailing well behind the Lionesses was this magnificent Black-maned Lion. What a send off this was turning out to be. He crossed the road in front of us and walked next to us for quite a way. He appeaered to have picked up a bit of an injury on his thigh. This was certainly the King of the Auob Valley













This delay, which was worth it, caused us to be behind schedule but we made good time to Upington. From there we took the Kimberely road as far as Campbell where we turned off to Douglas. From there we took the Plooysburg road which is a bit of a short cut to the "back entrance" of Mokala. WE were pleased to reach the gate at about 16h00.

DAY 16

This was our third visit to Mokala NP - a real gem. On previous visits we had stayed at Mosu Restcamp which was very impressive. This time, however, we plugged for the cottage at the Haak en Steek camping site. This definitely gave one a sense of isolation - unfortunately there were campers present each night but this did not in any way affect our stay. We did get annoyed with the large number of irresponsible and selfish people who simply ignored the "Residents Only" sign at the turn-off to Haak en Steek. A number of people arrived and hauled out the picnic baskets and simply made themselves at home. On one occassion we woke up to find an idiot staring through our bedroom window. I think the SAN Parks should put up booms at all these private road entrances to stop this abuse. The residents can be issued with a magnetic card (much like parking garages) which will activate the boom when they need to enter. I have seen this in Kruger and Kgakagadi where these no entry roads are simply ignored. Here are a few pics to show you what Haak en Steek looks like - there is a lovely waterhole in front of the cottage that is used quite frequently by the Mokaka wildlife





The waterhole is fed from a borehole when required.



Many pleasant hours can be spent sitting under the camethorn trees observing the comings and goings at the waterhole. One needs to be on your guard though because this is an unfenced area and there are buffalo and white rhino in the park





We were anxious to visit the new birdhide at Stopdam which is on the Doringlaagte Loop. This hide has only recently been completed and is really well put together. Unfortunately we never saw much action from the hide, despite frequent visits during our stay. These Waterbuck and Shelduck were present at our first visit







We continues alomg the Doringlaagte loop and were surprised to see this periscope sticking out of the long grass! She was probably sitting on a nest.



En-route home we saw this Schimaterbill which would not sit still for its photograph to be taken



It was pretty hot around midday so we spent some down-time under the camelthorn trees. This Fiscal Flycatcher was a regular visitor



In the afternoon we drove the Matopi Loop before heading off to Stofdam again but not much action. The Shelduck were once again in attendance. I must say this Shelduck did not look very impressed with the view it had of its mate!





On the way back to Haak en Steek we saw Ostrich, Red Haartebeest and a Steenbok with amazingly long horns







The evening was quiet, the jackals were calling in the distance - all the perfect ingredients for an eveing around the potjie!. The sunset was also awesome

DAY 17

We decided to "lie in" a bit this morning. You can actually lie in bed and have a perfect view of the waterhole. Later it was a coffee under the camelthorn trees. This Woodpecker (Golden-tailed I think)was searching for his breakfast in the trees surrounding the camp



We were fortunate to watch a herd of Tsessebbe come down to drink, followed by a family of Warthog













We decided to take a drive around the Matopi Loop where we saw our first Rhino as well as Kudu and more Tsessebbe. It was interesting to see that the vast majority of Tsessebbe were covered in mud. They were constantly"horning" whenever they were at the waterhole. I know this keeps parasites at bay but this seemed a bit over the top. There seemed to be a lot of flies around - wonder if that was not the problem







The Lilydale section had now been joined to Mokala so we decided to take a drive across to see the Riet River. En-route we popped in at the Stofdam hide and once again it was only the Shelduck family to be seen. At the turn-off to Stofdam this family of Ostriches caused a bit of a road block. It was interesting watching mother Ostrich trying to coax her chicks off the road because when they took fright it was only one way - down the road!







There was nothing to report from the trip across to Lilydale. I guess that it will take the game a while to get used to the fact that this part of the park has been opened up. We had lunch at Lilydale (very quiet - only people there) before heading back . We did a quick loop around Doringlaagte and were very fortunate to see this really old Roan Antelope - a first for us







A magnificent Nyala Bull revealed himself briefly and later we saw a herd of Zebra. This doting mother was certainly being very generous to her calf - seemed far too old to still be suckling!