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Katja, p@m, Salamanda, and Micetta

As we were on a roll we decided to go to Batulama to see if the cheetah trio was still there. They were there OK but again just that bit too far away for a real good photo with our 300mm lens …….sigh!




When we got back to Kamqua, the lionesses were nowhere to be seen and Small Daddy was left to look after the gemsbok carcass



This is what Small Daddy looked like – see that tummy



On returning towards KTC we got another look at Elena and cubs between 13 and 14 boreholes (in fact we saw them every day for the 2 days we spent at KTC and the 2 days at Urikaruus but never close enough for real good pix ………….sigh again!!)





We found these lions at 14th borehole all clumped together just like our jelly babies (the heat seemed to have the same effect on both).



As we got out of the 14th borehole road and had gone barely 100 metres the conversation went something like this

Sharifa: Stop, go back

Duke: Termite mount, rock, dead log or shrub (Yeah, I’ve gone back for many of those and sometimes they had come alive – probably about 90% of the leopards we have seen have been spotted by Sharifa).

Sharifa: Caracal

Duke: We only seeing her in Nossob, besides I don’t think she is in the park yet.

Sharifa: Not that Caracal

Duke: It is 11h01 and 41°C are you nuts? (some of those leopards were seen at the most weird times)

Sharifa: Black pointed ears, very distinct.

So I go back about 20 meters

Sharifa: Put that in your pipe and smoke it



Duke from to to

to be continued.................

Thank you All for the wonderful comments, much appreciated

There was only one place from which you could get a good view as the road banks were quite high and the grass longish. This was our first caracal sighting in the wild in 31 years of visiting Game Parks and we were very excited



We had her to ourselves for about 15 minutes before the next car arrived and the look on their faces was priceless when we showed them what it was. On the arrival of the third car she got up and moved away into the distance. Pity we could not get a good shot of her face but we were still delighted







Sharifa aptly described it as the slinky cat that strolled away.

Big Daddy, cute jackals, Ludwig’s Bustards (also a first for us), Small Daddy, the Batulama trio, Elena and cubs and caracal and the day was still not over. It was a magic day.

When you don't need an answer
there'll be days like this
When you don't meet a chancer
there'll be days like this
When all the parts of the puzzle
start to look like they fit
Then I must remember
there'll be days like this

When we got back to KTC our neighbour, who was also our neighbour at KK, came over and excitedly told us about the leopard that had come to the KTC waterhole for a drink.

We have not seen a leopard in the KTC yet but it did not matter.

Thank you Katja, jaybabe and lp

On the afternoon drive we found the lazy clump of lions at 14th borehole. We were about to move on when the clump stirred and came to live



then one lioness headed for the waterhole



followed by the second. We had seen that they wanted to get to the water in the middle of the waterhole and in true lion fashion they did not want to get their feet wet so were ready for the second one



and then there were two



the males though just waddled through not bothering to jump



and then there were many



and some still preffered dry feet

Thank you for the comments and encouragement

24 December 2009 – Urikaruus.

We decided on a late start this morning as we were moving camps and also because we were hoping that the leopard would make another appearance at the KTC waterhole.

We left KTC at 08h30. The vultures were finishing off what was left of the wildebeest.



After Sitzas we got another cheetah sighting, a lone one this time, and still too far for a decent pix.



We got to Urikaruus which we found just as wonderful as KK and KTC.

kitchen to right and bedroom up the stairs


braai area overlooking waterhole


Urikaruus has the best positioned waterhole of all the wilderness camps.

Springbok at waterhole


Marius, the tourist attendant was excellent and we were disappointed to learn from him that the resident leopard was killed by lions.

Urikaruus is built on stilts with wooden flooring and every step you take is a squeak and a creak. So you make your way around with a squeak squeak here and a creak creak there.

At dusk we had some giraffe come to the waterhole and everybody was active with their braais going so every time somebody moved it spooked the giraffe who take so long anyway to get to drink water.

Thank you KDU.

Lionspoon, sorry for the bad news about the leopard. Maybe another one will make UK area his territory by March.

25 December 2009 – Urikaruus.

Today we decided to do the upper Dune road and at Vaalpan saw some ostrich with young ones.





A Northern black korhaan who very vocally protested his displeasure at our intrusion of his space.



On returning to Urikaruus we found “His Majesty” at Kamqua waterhole looking very miserable.



That afternoon we went to Batulama but for once the cheetah trio was not around.
On the way back to Urikaruus we had a déjà vu moment at the Kamqua picnic site as “His Majesty” was coming down the road again. But he was not looking good at all





What a change in three days. Seems he had picked up the virus and possibly the dead lioness at Rooibrak was part of his pride.

Pictures of dead lioness when we first saw her



and a few days later



"His Majesty" who thrilled as just 3 days ago did not look like he was going to make it but this is how we will remember him



Tomorrow we move on to the Nossob side of the park. The Auob side was really good to us.

26 December 2009

We left Urikaruus at 05h30 and had a long journey to Grootkolk. I was going to spend a penny at Dikbaardskolk but that was not going to happen because she was on duty



Hello, what do we have here? A cub that looked in desperate need of a meal then came out of the toilet.







We later found out that there were 4 cubs in the toilet and the other 3 were in good health.

On the way to Cheleka we met another tourist who told us about a dying lioness at Cheleka and a Brownie wanting to drink water but was very nervous as it could not see the lioness but could smell it. We told them about the cub and lioness at DBK.

At Cheleka we saw the Brownie disappearing up the hill but noted that this might be place to find a brownie when we get to stay in Nossob.

The lioness was barely breathing



We got a good sighting of a black shouldered kite





And stumbled uninvitingly on a secretary’s conference (we counted 11 secretary birds)



The minute we saw Grootkolk, we were hooked, what a beautiful camp. We were in chalet 1 which seems to be the best one to get.

Braai area which is fenced off. The waterhole is to the left of the tree.



Note the gate on left that leads to the car parking area. Stairs leading to another gate that opens on to the patio. The patio is walled off and the wall is above waist high, an important detail for a story to follow in next installment.



We were full of expectation as we had seen the TR’s where lions and leopards had come for breakfast. We were not disappointed.

Thank You All for all the replies – much appreciated

It is really sad about the lions. Although wildlife is my passion and I was an Honorary Ranger a while back and have done some reading on the subject I am no expert, but for what it is worth, here is my take on the matter. I am a firm believer in Nature taking care of itself and wherever possible no intervention/management is necessary. We are only now finding out that some management decisions taken in the past, although beneficial in the short term were detrimental in the long term. I have also read that there are many vaccines for CDV and if not used correctly the vaccine could infect instead of protect the animal.

Canine Distemper Virus is a serious condition but it did not wipe out the lion population in the Serengeti in 1993/1994, although about a third of the lions did die from the virus. The lions that survived got some immunity and are therefore better able to fight further outbreaks. Only a handful of lions from all that we saw on this trip seem to be affected and then again we are not sure if it is due to CDV. I am also curious as to why the jackals and bat eared foxes are not affected – well we did not see any that appeared ill.

We saw more lions but none of them appeared ill so I believe (hope, pray ) that we have seen the worse of the outbreak and things are under control. We first heard about this in October 2009 and now in January 2010 we can account for about 6 dead lions. We saw 51 lions on this trip. Of these one was dead at Rooibrak, one seemed to be dying at Cheleka and one not looking too well (His Majesty). So IMHO the lions of the KTP are not dying like flies, but I have been wrong before and will be wrong again, but I hope not this time.

As we got the braai going, two spotted hyena came to the waterhole



Then I was really spooked by a visitor sitting on the other side of the fence and looking like a million dollars.



She just sat there and stared at us. I wondered if people fed her and she was waiting for scraps.







She did not return for the next 2 nights we were at GK which tells me she was not being fed


What a special sighting

At about 20h30 Sharifa said that there is a big cat between chalet 1 and 2. I shone the torch but could not see anything. I went for a shower and there I was minding my own business and cooling off from the heat when suddenly Sharifa was at the shower door all excited and whispering under her breath leopard…….leopard………leopard……..


The taps were closed in a flash, I grabbed my and was on the patio (told you the walls are above waist high but the neighbours in chalet 2 were indoors anyway ). How exciting to see your first KTP leopard about 5 metres away and the only thing between you and the leopard is this wall which would not stop a leopard anyway.

The adrenaline is pumping and at the time you are not scared but afterwards you wonder ………..

I then had this vision of the next morning’s headlines, “Naked man mauled by leopard”

Nah…the leopard was not really interested in us and went about its business. It disappeared pass the chalet and into the darkness.


Neither Sharifa nor I are geared for night time photography but I got this pix



And Sharifa got this one



Wow, what an introduction to Grootkolk. Spotted hyena, AWC and a leopard.

Tomorrow I will tell you more about why Biyamiti and Bateleur are going to get stiff competition from Grootkolk as our favourite camp.

Dreamer, p@m, bornfree hope I cheered you up with the last installment

icurrie, katja, Salamanda, Micetta the AWC was special. Just like the tabby we used to own Micetta but bigger.

Lionspoon we were first timers at all the wilderness camps. Each one is unique with its own special attraction but we loved GK the best

RichardJ, I remember your TR. You the owner of "The Beast" right or am I confusing you with somebody else.

Arks, I also referred to the AWC as a "her" but not sure if she was. Methinks the aroma of the braai gets to her. We also saw her jump up the wall, she was trying to catch a skink but was not successful.

KTF Hooked, hope you get back soon. Check the "truck" you hire carefully as our neighbour in GK hired from some company and found out they did not have a jack when they got a puncture.

MM it indeed was a priviledge to get a visit from this shy kitty.

Caracal, you may not remember this but when we first when to the KTP in May 2006 we asked for general advise on the KTP and you gave us lots of good info on hot spots and where to deflate tyres (road to TR was not tarred then) and what to take with etc. Hope you see the kitty at GK in July.

27/28 December 2009 – Grootkolk

Thank you billyf, Cherries and Anne-Marie for your comments.
Anne-Marie, thought of you and your experience with the fires when we drove pass the burnt areas.
Arks, 5 days in Grootkolk, not even a wee bit because this is not a nice camp

We arrived at Grootkolk at about 2.00pm the day before and to pass the time I read the sightings book which was a brilliant initiative by Caracal. Three nights ago there was a pair of mating leopards next to chalet 1 for the whole night and the evening before we arrived, spotted hyena tried their luck with some hartebeest.

I also read comments like “Heaven on Earth”, “Most beautiful camp we have been to”, “Magnificent, peaceful and the sightings were great”.

I agree with all of the above and so what I am going to do is refute a claim by Mark Twain who said that God made Mauritius first and then Heaven. With due respect to Mr. Twain and the people of Mauritius, and I love Mauritius and the beach, I put to you the case for Grootkolk, supported by photographs.

Note that the pix that follow are typical of what can be seen at Grootkolk and not seen in the order posted but just to illustrate a typical day and were taken during our stay at Grootkolk.

You will be greeted by the most spectacular sunrise. The only dilemma you will be faced with is whether to stay in camp or go for a drive (either way you win).



If you decide to go for a game drive you may see a leopard in the grass near Unions Ends picnic site



but a leopard does not just wander aimlessly and this one was looking



at this



We settled down for some action but the "bokke" got wind of him and snorted and sounded the alarm

Or you may see lions at Union Ends waterhole



The lions did not hang around but a jackal did



A shaft tailed whydah at Unions End. Not the best photo we have taken but we could not get close enough and it was our first ever sighting of one.



You may decide to stay in camp and have a martial eagle visit



and put on a show for you





………………………………………….....to be continued………………………………………………………………..

..........A secretary bird was very jealous of the Martial Eagle putting on a show and send her packing





because she wanted to put on a show instead



and you will get an endless procession of antelope visiting







In the evening the spotted hyena will come and hog the waterhole



to be continued.......................

Micetta, hope this installment helps you make up your mind

Thank you Crested Barbet and Katja. Have read your TR CB just did not get round to commenting. Love the hyenas at Nsemani.

p@m you right about the feel of GK and the lovely surrounds. Having good sightings adds to the magic and hope you see plenty in Nov.

lp the hyena got a rude shock from some wildebeest as you will see

MM, you will not regret it but I blame wanderw We were in KTP the same time last year but I was not in GK. Her TR convinced me (thanks wanderw)- look what it says below her avatar

anne-marie, this secretay bird was not sharing


The hyena kept these wildebeest away from the waterhole



and then got up to check for and signs of weakness but these wildebeest were all fit. The hyena approached the WB but the WB sent the hyena packing and got their drink of water.

View My Video

Then you will get a beautiful sunset



And soon it will be dark and peaceful and then the silence will be broken by jackals wailing which is your signal that a spotted one is around. You will rush out in a flash (or in the flesh ) and sure enough a leopard will be there.

This one was there at 20h10 on the 28 Dec. It went for a drink and then disappeared behind chalet 4.





And at 00h30 the jackals were wailing again and this time the spotted one walked pass chalet 1.





Grootkolk, thank you for turning on the magic for us

Join us again tomorrow when we go to Nossob.

Thank you for all the comments, again much appreciated

29 December 2009 – Nossob

We were sad to leave Grootkolk but Nossob has not failed us yet. At Lijersdraai, we got our one and only sighting of some meerkats







Just before we got to Cubitje Quap, we saw a lot of little bodies scampering away so stopped. It was another BEF den and they came out eventually (take note Arks).



View My Video

We got some vultures at Qubitje Quap.

Lappet face vulture


White back culture.


Soon we were at Nossob. I did not think that I would ever say this about Nossob but we found it to be “busy”. We were spoiled by having our own deck and waterhole for the past few days. Getting the “dungeon” bedroom did not help matters.

In the evening we headed south and found the Rooikop couple.




The Rooikop #1 did get up and this would have been a great shot




but I fluffed it, my excuse is I was distracted by………….

That is a fair comparison Lionspoon and Nossob is not a big camp at all. It is just that the Wilderness camps have only 4 chalets.

………the dreaded dots Salamanda……..

Crested Barbet we just were very lucky on this trip

Kooscra we too are a KNPholics but now we have discovered KTP it is going to be decisions, decisions

Arks, hope you get the BEF’s

p@m we did not find the Geinab/Unions End gang. The area around Geinab is really barren right now with the bush burnt and no animals around, this waterhole is also dry.

Katja and anne-marie we were so happy to find some meerkats at last

Glad you enjoying the TR Elsa

........I was distracted by the Rooikop #2. He just appeared out of nowhere and sat on the road.

He was feeling very sorry for himself, must be because he missed out on mating to #1,



but he was so lovable and huggable with his mane blowing in the wind.





We liked him so much we took him with us to Nossob.

View My Video

Needless to say that when we got to Nossob the hide was full of people but we did get a another picture of him.

30 December 2009 – Nossob

We got to the hide at 05h15 and just missed a Brownie . We were out at 05h30 and headed south. Marie se Draai was disappointing .

We had made a note that Cheleka might be our best chance for a Brownie when we had seen one fleeing away four days ago but there was nothing at Cheleka , zilch, nada, even the dying lioness was gone – wonder what her fate was.

We carried on to Dikbaardskolk but the lioness and cubs had moved on too . It was a quiet morning. We wondered if we were going to see anything today. You all know these quiet days and then suddenly it is too hot and it is too far to carry on further south and you are very tired and you feel sorry for yourself like the Rooikop #2 . We decided to return to Nossob.

It all changed when we got back to Cheleka at 07h45. It was a


BROWNIE

She desperately wanted to drink but was been hassled by a jackal and a Gemsbok and had her hackles up.



She got to the water and started drinking but as you will see from the video she was agitated and soon ran off.

View My Video

The Gemsbok followed her

View My Video

She moved away to sit under a tree.



We settled down hoping for more and she returned to the waterhole when the Gemsbok left and drank, and drank and drank herself to the full.








Well my momma told me there'll be days like this

Video of Brownie drinking to her fill
View My Video

A Kombi pulled up and they were as delighted as we were with the Brownie and gave us the sign. We later found it was Caracal and Co in the hired Kombi (did not expect them in a Kombi with ND registration)

It got too crowded for the Brownie and she was on her way, leaving a trail of dust behind her.

Watch her go.








We only had one sighting for the morning but if it is one like this then I do not mind at all. I will take it every time.

Beware Aardwolf; Sharifa and Duke are on the lookout for you.

We were more than satisfied Katja we were overjoyed

Gorgeous Brownie Lionspoon, hope you get to see one

Caracal, love the bit about …..with a caracal following them ROFL

Fabulous ARKS

Very pleasing to get such a long sighting of a Brownie salamanda

Yep Micetta, she was one thirsty lady. She sat around for about 10 minutes before the Gemsbok and jackal would let her be. I guess we did not help matters by being there. On another note it would have been TERRIBLE if we did not get to see any meerkats. Hope you, ARKS, lionspoon, RichardJ all get them like this: running across road and family portrait (seen in Dec 2008 near Mata Mata)