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 Post subject: Rhinoseeker just had 2 AWESOME weeks in kruger park
Unread postPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:52 pm 
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ok, photos have been uploaded, the TR will start soon! I guess I'll start a new thread in the Trip report forum

here's a quick preview..

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Last edited by rhinoSeeker on Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:10 pm 
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As promised, I'm starting my trip report from Kruger national park.. we spent 15 nights in the park, and saw amazing stuff, traveling from the south border of the park to the north border. I took about 4,000 photos, and brought back a lifetime of memories....

The trip started off flying out of los angeles, my father flew out of Buffalo, NY. We met in Atlanta, where we flew together on a direct flight to Johannesburg, landing on sep. 4th.

We picked up our rental car, a Nissan X-trail 2x4 from thrifty, and headed to our room near the airport for the night. We planned to depart early the next morning for Kruger.

more to come...


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:50 pm 
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ok, it seems that people are wanting a little more of this Trip report, so I guess I should start?

Let me first say, that if I happened to come across any of you in the park, and, for example, I ran you off the road, spoiled your sighting, blocked your view, or shown the baboons your fridge is unlocked, I profusely apologize!!

Now that THAT is out of the way..

I was very happy that I got an X-trail from thrifty, and not another car. being higher up was definitely going to help on the trip with photos...

We stayed near the airport at the Joburg french guest house. This was the worst place I've ever stayed at in my entire life. Within 5 minutes of arriving the owner insulted just about every race out there (blacks, whites, asians), and he was just getting started. And this was when he was in a good mood. On a positive note, this was the only negative experience we had in South africa!

We (thankfully) left the Joburg french guest house at 5:15AM and drove towards the Malelane gate. We stopped for quite a while at a large grocery store just before Nelspruit to stock up on groceries and beer, use the internet, buy 2 coolers, etc.

We arrived at the gate just before 11AM, there was a nice group of young south africans there to greet us. You can see my dad in the background with our car.

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After a few minutes we were in the park! The first time seeing wild animals in africa is an amazing experience. We immediately saw crocodile, elephant, impala. We were so excited even by the impala! We couldn't believe we made it.

We drove on the S110/S120 loop and saw a couple of rhinos laying down. well that didn't take too long to see a rhino! I couldn't believe how excited I was. My first "keeper" shot was this female kuda

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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:02 pm 
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We then headed to the afsaal picnic site, where the hornbills are friendly, plentiful and like to put on a show. In the area, animals like Baboon, Zebra and Giraffe were exotic to us, and warranted lots of time and photos.

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After some time on the S114, we decided to try to find our camp, Biyamiti. The map wasn't clear how far it was along the S139, but we found out! Well we got to camp a few minutes after 6PM (some elephants blocking the road didn't help) but it was ok.

we were off to a nice start on Day #1, but the next day things were going to get real good...


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:13 am 
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We woke up early at Biyamiti early to start our 1st full day in Kruger. We were only at biyamiti one night, but we really loved it. We were ready to go before 6 and the gate even opened up early!

Travelling east, the only car on the road (I didn't yet realize how spoiled we were), it wasn't long before we saw an animal laying on the road. Was it dead? what was it? nope, not dead, just full from a big meal! A nice hyena.

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We made our way to the S25 near croc bridge. All of a sudden, we saw 5 animals walking on the road towards us, 3-4 cars behind them. What were they? I didn't know. I started snapping photos...

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Wild dog! The cars brought the dogs right to us.. snap snap snap, I got some shots.. the dogs went past me, so did the 3 cars, taking up both lanes. hmmm, we turned around - but we couldn't get past the cars to get more shots! the cars were slowly following the dogs, staying behind them. ok - note to self, lesson learned here - don't lose a good position.

I couldn't believe it - wild dogs on our 1st morning! time, about 6:57AM

and our day was just getting started! but there was more down the road...


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:24 pm 
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After the wild dogs, it was still early in the morning and we made our way to the hippo pool, and then headed north on the S28 to the Ntadanyathi hide. I liked how we could walk to the hippo pool, it was a nice area, and the guard said lions have been spotted there before. we asked about swimming with the hippos, but we were told it was not open-swim hours.

the hides are interesting, because it's an open area where you are allowed out of your car. Could a big animal be in the area? not this time, but later on, at another hide, we had a different experience...

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bird outside the hide (Crested Barbet)

we saw more zebra, elephant, baboon and rhino, and our first wilderbeast, hippo, mongoose, buffalo, and warthog. The wilderbeast were fascinating (although they became less fascinating as the trip went on, lol) - but I never lost my interest in the funny warthogs. we saw more zebra, giraffe, and hippo around sunset dam (one of my favorite places - but more on this later).

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warthogs are always doing funny antics


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hippos walking around sunset dam

ok - middle of day #2 - 3 of the big 5 spotted. Note to self - there's lots of game in the croc-bridge area!

It was now afternoon on day #2 - and we continued to head north towards Skukuza, where we were booked for the night, on the famous "H4-1".

Little did we know, we were about to experience our first Kruger traffic jam, and see another of the big 5.

we are not particularly obsessed with the "big 5", but the phrase sure sounds nice, doesn't it?


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:07 pm 
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At 1:50PM on the H12 bridge, another car going by said "hey, did you know there lions ahead??"

Did he say lions? That's all I needed to hear. I'd never seen a lion! The pedal went to the floor, and 5 minutes and 50km/hour later we were at the lion site.. on the main road to skukusa...but no lions, just a gazillion cars!!!

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what were they looking at? cars were all over, jockeying for position, pulling out cameras and cell phones...I think the people were more interesting than the lions! Overall I have to say people at lion jams were polite enough, not really blocking other people's views or running out of their cars.

Finally we saw them, across the sabie river, laying down lazily in the shade a million miles away. but did I care? heck no, they were lions, lots of them, and I was going to photograph them, and be happy doing it.

I pulled out a dozen tubes, teleconverters, diopters, etc - whatever I had, so I could make my lens reach those lions..talk about needed long lens technique! even a car's engine a km away was vibrating my photo...I think I was at a 5,000mm focal length equivalent :) well I got some shots, and promised myself I'd find some lions close-up later in the trip. (And a few days later, I sure did!)

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Lions across the sabie river

After a couple hours of lion-watching and people-watching, we checked into skukuza and went on a sunset drive at 5PM. our first stop was back to the same lions. A couple cubs had walked down onto the rocks. (still far away). Finally, lions not in the shade! But light levels were really low, (almost dark), I had to bump my camera up to around ISO one million to get a shot of these little guys!

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Lion cubs shot at 1/30th of a second. Luckily I was able to stabilize the camera across the crossbar of the jeep.

later on in the night drive we saw bushbabies, a glimpse of a genet, and a scrub hare. Nothing spectacular, but tomorrow was going to be a GREAT day. Stay tuned!


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 7:52 am 
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@Lettuce - thanks! more bird photos will be coming
@charming - thanks alot, I love those cubs too
@cheetah, pikkie, sprocky, kamadejo - thanks alot, I guess it's time for day 3!

Day #3 in kruger park was unbelievable.

We check out of skukuza, and make our way towards lower sabie.

First we spy a pair of impalas on a date.

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Then, I notice a group of impalas lounging around the sabie river. Every once in a while, one of them would jump across.

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We checked into lower sabie, into an unbelievably nice, new bungalow. After a quick lunch, I check the sighting board, and notice a couple of cheetah sightings around the S137, so that afternoon we make our way down the S28. After seeing some grazers and browsers, and spotting a couple ostrich very far away, we flag a car down and ask them if they've seen anything interesting. Note to readers - flag down cars often, it's sometimes worthwhile. They mention cheetah at duke dam - that's all I need to hear! Straight to duke dam on the S137...we find quite a few cars, and 5 cheetahs lounging!

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They were fairly far away (I had to use a tele and crop the photos), but it was a fairly open area. After a couple of hours, the cheetahs got up, grabbed a drink, and walked away from us into the bush, not to be seen again (at least by us). On the way back to lower sabie we saw wilderbeast, kudu, and quite a few zebra, and I can never resist photographing zebra.

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It's almost 6PM, we turn right on the H4-2 to go back to camp. A few large elephants were on the side of the road - very exciting for us! Halfway to camp we see a car pulled over. I pull right up next to them and ask them what they see. "Leopard". my jaw dropped and almost hit the floor! Our first leopard, I could barely contain myself. Light levels were very low, I had to shoot at ISO 1600, 1/15th of a second at 400mm. talk about pushing my camera to it's limits. I stabilized my camera the best I could. We only saw it for less than a minute as it moved around the rock it was on, and then walked off. The couple in the car, Russ and Linzy, were very nice, and we'd run into them several more times over the next couple days.

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We went back to camp, made dinner, watched a hyena come to our fence, and went to bed. But I couldn't sleep, I just stayed up thinking about all the wonderful sightings we had over the last 36 hours - lion, leopard, hyena, wild dog, and cheetah!!!!

but the spots were just starting...


Last edited by rhinoSeeker on Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:31 am 
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Day #4 - lower sabie area

I love the lower sabie area, it is incredible. A great camp, a great area - I wish I had more reservations for more than 2 nights! next time

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great bungalow, directly facing the sabie river

Of course we left the gate at 6AM, like every other day. We visited sunset dam early and often, there are so many opportunities there.

(Click on photos below for a larger version)

here's some more birds for LettuceLeaf

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Kingfisher with a fish - 1st photo of the day

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Fishing eagle

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Hippo showing off it's teeth. Who's your dentist???

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male hippos fighting

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happy happy hippo

In the morning we did the H10 / S29 loop, north of lower sabie - what a great area! we saw wilderbeast, zebra, elephant, buffalo, warthogs, etc..

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Rhino on the H10. We saw 7 rhinos today! This rhino had such a giant horn.

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warthog leaving in a puff - tail up in the air!

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zebra photo #1 - This is one of my favorite moments of the trip, seeing all these zebras was just incredible. This was a special moment I won't forget. Almost felt like I was "running with zebras"

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zebra in the road

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water buffalo blocking the H10

It was a great day for wildlife and photo ops, but boy, was it going to be a day for cats!!! (to be continued)


Last edited by rhinoSeeker on Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:12 am 
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Kruger park - Day #4, part 2 - lower sabie area

While at lower sabie, we tried to look for leopard in the high-leopard areas early and often (just north and south of camp on the H4-1 and H4-2).

Leopard sighting #2 of the trip was completely on our own, I spotted one 4km north of the camp, walking away from us in a dry river bed. wow, we could actually find a leopard on our own! I wish it turned around and sat in front of our car, but unfortunately it didn't.

So I just have a behind shot :(

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After the leopard, we saw a large troop of baboons on the road. A truck that went by (not tourists) threw them a lot of bread/food. Now I know why they like to hang out on the road! Soon afterwards, we saw a young baboon jump on top of a tourist car and get a lift for a couple minutes. it was funny, I'm not sure if the tourists ever realized it! They saw us pointing to the top of their car, laughing.

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we had a quick lunch at the camp, and got to watch giraffes drinking from the river right from the bungalow, how nice!

We spent most of the afternoon watching lions on the H4-1, (along with many other cars) about 12km north of camp. We were hoping they would do something interesting. (They didn't).

It was really exciting to see lions again, but I started to long for a more "close-up" encounter with them. They were laying around in the shade, back a little ways from the road.

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10 lions lounging

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We hoped the lions would get up and walk toward the car, but that didn't happen.

We were one of the last cars to leave the lions, and on our way back to camp we came across leopard sighting #3. (2nd leopard of the day), 4km north of camp, in a tree. Many cars were there.

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well I wasn't overjoyed with the photos - we were far away (couldn't get close because of other cars), light levels were low, shutter speeds slow, and what little light there was, was behind the leopard. But a leopard is a leopard, right??? Three minutes after we arrived the leopard went down and disappeared into the bush. if we had left the lions sooner, I might have had better light, better shots.. could have, would have...should have.

Pulled into camp at 6:01PM, and wow, were we happy.. so many cats over the last 48 hours, wildlife everywhere! well this took off a little pressure to find cats, and let us focus on spending some quality time with wildlife (big and small) over the next few days.

The next day is going to bring us even more spots!


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:55 pm 
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@Kamadejo - thanks so much, after day #4 we felt very lucky. of course we were working on finding animals very hard, out from 6AM -6PM each day with just a 2 hour break for lunch, constantly checking sightings boards and talking to people, but I know there was luck too!

@elsa - thanks alot

@Skilie - thanks so much

@Micetta - yes, we set the goals high but I think you have to! especially when visiting for 15 days :)

@richardj - days without a cat? I think that's not possible in winter/spring in the south, unless they were were barbeque-ing (braai) and drinking all day like some people we saw :) more spots coming up!

@marx - thanks alot, we were very blessed those 1st few days

@Salamanda - your welcome. I agree - that leopard looked very sleek and healthy -definitely not an old sick one!

@lettuceleaf - your very welcome

@rayK - thanks alot - yes, we did feel like we saw a lot those 1st 4 days, it was amazing!

@kathUK - yeah, I was surprised, but I think most tourists know not to feed baboons, they can get quite aggressive and most people prefer them a little bit aways from the windows

@EagleOwl - thanks so much, I'll be reported more later today

@MagicGuarri - thanks alot! May will be a little greener but work hard and I'm sure you'll see at least a leopard if you hang out in the south. more pics coming soon!

@mellory - thank you very much.

wow, all the nice compliments, you forumites are all so nice! I really need to go back to kruger again and meet some of you. It's been so much fun writing this Trip report and reading the plethora of responses.

After day #4 we had a light dinner at our excellent Lower Sabie luxery-bungalow. The next morning we had to check out, and check in at Skukuza again. We were so happy about all of our sightings, my dad joked that we could go home now. I said "no way, we have lots more photos to take!"

so the next priority was finding a lion walking near the car (preferable in good light) so I could get a closeup. We decided to concentrate our efforts in prime lion territory, that meant the H4-1 between lower sabie and skukusa. A leopard in the clear would be a bonus too. That area is full of cars, tourists, and lion jams, but we figured we'd have lots of quiet time up north later in the trip, best to use the "crowds" to our advantage for now. (later on in the trip I refined this advice to myself a little bit).

So the plan was - stick to the main sighting areas, and if we see a car pulled over, immediate pull up and ask them what they see.

We went to bed, so happy and ready for another great day of sightings!

Day #5 report coming up in a few hours...


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:23 am 
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On Day 5, after a light breakfast we left lower sabie :( and departed the gate at 6AM. Mission - lions and leopards

At 7:15AM, we saw a car on a small turnout 7km before skukusa on the H4-1. We pulled up and asked what they were looking at. "Leopard".

:big_eyes:
My jaw almost dropped. "Really?? leopard?". I said it a little loud, the people in the car gave me a "shhh" sign - oops, I felt bad. note to self - be quiet around leopards.

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4 leopards in 36 hours - don't hate me! :redface: After 1 minute the leopard slinked off into the bush..

the rest of the day was cat-free, but we had some wonderful wildlife sightings...

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we started off with baboons at 6:17AM

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baby baboon drinking milk

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backlit buffalo

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a pair of female waterbuck

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Lilac-crester roller, perhap kruger's most beautiful bird

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smiling croc, at sunset dam

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impala at sunset dam

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hippo at sunset dam. Can you tell I like sunset dam?

In the afternoon we took the H11/S1/S4 loop, because there have been wild dog sightings in the area. yes, we were going for our 2nd wild dog sighting. greedy?? maybe! :)

Well we didn't see much except for a vulture feeding on a giraffe carcass. so we went back to the H4-1, which treated us to some very special sightings just before 6PM

1st, we saw these rivers otters far across the sabie river at 5:40PM. Otters - I couldn't believe it! we watched them walk along the shore for a minute, and duck in and out of the water.

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river otter in the sabie river
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2nd river otter, right behind the 1st

then, at 5:55PM on the way back to camp, we see something on the road. Lots of something. What is it? banded mongoose! At least 30 of them.

as we approach, they scatter into the bush. what a sight! We'll never forget seeing 30 mongooses run in front of us..and finally, a couple km from camp, it's 5:59PM - and we see at least 50 guinea fowl crossing the road! I'd never seen a flock so big. They just went on forever.. I love the guineas, they are such friendly birds, always pecking, looking for food, like pets..

I think all the good stuff comes out right before 6PM... :wink:

well that wraps up day #5. on day #6, we leave skukusa and start heading up north. but on Day #6, before we leave the south, one of my wishes will be granted...

so stay tuned


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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:13 am 
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@Kamadejo - thanks alot! the roller is such a beautiful bird, I never tire of them
@salamanda - thanks alot, I didn't even know there were otters in kruger
@flying cheetah - yes, I definitely had an outstanding trip!
@lettuceleaf - thank you! keep your eyes peeled on the sabie river at 5:55PM for otters :) 10km south of skukusa
@billy - thanks
@mikemike - thanks alot, more coming soon
@MagicG - mucho thanks, good luck in May
@RichardJ - we stopped and picked up some extra luck at the store in Nelspruit on the way to the park, we kept it in the cooler


ok, so now we are on Day #6.. we packed up, and prepared for our trip north.. we left skukusa at 5:55AM, we had one night at Tamboti, and then on to Letaba...

We planned out our morning - it was our last morning in the deep south, and I wanted a lion or leopard closeup. We decided we would stick to a narrow stretch of the H4-1, starting 5km from camp and ending 12km away, going slowly back and forth for 3 hours..

lets see what happened!

here's a preview photo from Day #6.. I asked a group of waterbuck to pose for a picture, and they decided to, uh, misbehave. Clearly against park rules!

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Last edited by rhinoSeeker on Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:44 am 
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ok, day #6 - we pack up our stuff and leave the Skukusa gate at 6AM..

those of you who have been reading this TR know that I've been frustrated that I haven't yet had a large group of well-groomed lions walk right in front of my car and pose for photos yet..

so we decide to go out and look for lions on the move, early in the morning. We drive slowly back and forth, on the H4-1 5km east of skukusa up to 12km east of skukusa, just before the H12 bridge

All of a sudden, at 7AM, IT HAPPENS! lions, walking near the road.. a bunch of them! there's a few cars on the road trying to follow the lions..we pull ahead of them a little bit, hoping the lions will come towards us. instead they walk a little further into the bush. but WAIT - there's a gravel road in that direction! we drive down the road a ways, turn on the gravel road, come back in the direction of the lions, and wait.. a few other cars are there too, with the same idea..

everyone is quiet. there's impala in the area. I'm on the edge of my seat, heart beating fast. all of a sudden, SNORT SNORT SNORT

the impala start snorting, and then start running. Lions are coming!!!

(click on photos to enlarge them)

the impala decide to take off..
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then, the lions appear...

they are still not yet near the road, but walking parallel to it, but you can tell they are getting closer to the road. cars start lining up behind the lions, we drive further ahead, guessing where they will meet the road.

here they come!
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and here come the cubs

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aren't they cute?

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mama lion


Last edited by rhinoSeeker on Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: two awesome weeks in kruger - we saw it all!
Unread postPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:57 am 
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well, everything after that was just gravy..I was on cloud 9 - I got my wish! lions walking towards me.

oh, I almost forgot to mention, as I was shooting the photo with the 3 cubs together (they only came together like that momentarily), my father was poking me, saying "the big male lion is right next to your window", I said "don't bother me, I'm shooting the cubs!". He loves telling that story!

eventually we left the lions, well more like they left us, they were walking somewhere.

look, even the local monkeys looked worried!

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we head towards our camp, tamboti via satara, by going up the H10.

we stopped to watch these ground hornbills feeding each other, they are very social birds!
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we stopped at tshokwane for a late breakfast, and had a bush breakfast. Actually, this was our only time buying prepared food in the entire park!

we saw some impalas on their lunch break, shooting the breeze
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and we saw male giraffes sparing with each other, by hitting each other in the body with their horns
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other sightings include a large elephant herd, buffalo, warthog, big kuda and waterbuck, baboons, mongoose, zebra, wilderbeast.

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life on a giraffe

we checked the sightings board at satara, and then made our way towards tamboti. On the way, 20km before orpen, we found a couple cars at a fresh leopard kill!!!!! but no leopard...so we waited around..

some very exciting events were about to unfold.. so stay tuned!

to be continued...


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