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The magnetic pull gets stronger after each visit to KTP and this time we are reponding sooner as the pull was 'hurting'
This will be a trip with a difference as it is just the two of us Our son is now at college and he is 'OK' with it... just a bit 'miffed' to be left behind . Our daughter is as her overseas sports tour has been cancelled and she now has to stay behind They know though that it won't be too long before I start planning another trip again So now that I have shared my personal guilt trip, let me say that it probably won't last toooo long
The menu planning has been done and the shopping done and all that's to be done is... go to bed and look forward to tomorrow night, our 'last sleep' before we hit the road at 3am on Sat am
Hoping to come home and share some wonderful sightings with you all after having spent 13 days in the park I am also hoping that these 13 days will be the longest ever!!! One can dream hey?!

Oh my GOSH!!!!..... this is much harder than I remember from last trips Back to the norm is a huge to the system, BUT, it's reality and I must get on with it
Thank you to all for the well wishes for a wonderful trip. That is truly what it was.... WONDERFUL
A couple of 'first time' sightings. African Dreams and SO was one of them. There is something extra special about meeting up with other forumites. Thank you Lisa and Rolf for sharing some of your trip with us, time was too short though
Right now I need to get sorting and hopefully soon will get posting a few of our experiences and pics. (So pleased for the long weekend coming up )

Thanks Wanda and Michele
Wanda, I am so enjoying your report that keeping me away from writing mine
Michele,

Oh yes I needed to make sure that I would be returning to KTP

We left home, rather early on Saturday 12th …3.30am
We love the route via Van Ryans Pass to Calvinia – Brandvlei – Upington. This time the mist was so thick over the pass it was unfortunately impossible to see. This is how it looked when we got to the top:

We stopped at one of the many guesthouses in Calvinia, enjoyed a full breakfast and headed for Upington where purchase the ‘must have’ cheesies (cheese sausages) from the butcher. It was here that we were reminded of the regular scheduled power cuts. As we completed our purchase the power went off. We were not inconvenienced here or at the fuel station as both immediately switched to generators. Power cuts was something we were not going to miss for the next two weeks!!
As we neared the turnoff to the ‘famous’ tar/gravel road the weather looked more and more threatening. Travelling this road was a dream. All except the last 23km's have been tarred and those 23 km's were just as pleasant to drive on as the tar We were lucky, it was a Saturday so there were no contractors and the road appeared to have recently been graded.



We arrived at the entrance at 15.30. Our 12 hour journey from Cape Town was easy and relaxing, included the leisurely breakfast and lunch stops.

Eva assisted us at reception – we felt so welcome – she was as friendly and efficient, just as we had remembered from previous visits.
Booked into No 1 , quickly settled so we could immediately begin to enjoy the wonders of the Kgalagadi.
This pic was taken specifically for Katy and Francolin

Outlook from No 1



Took a short drive to Samevloeeing and no further than 4km’s from TR we saw:

We were of course extremely happy, not even an hour in the park and our first lion sighting!
We chatted and exchanged info with our neighbours while braaing. I soon picked up that he knew plenty about the park and learned that he was an avid reader of the forum but too ‘shy’ to partake due to being Afrikaans speaking. Well, Jaco, I am keeping my eyes open, you did hint that you would join in and share your wonderful stories with us. Was you name to be “Yakkety Jac?”
Just before bedtime we witnessed our first kill

Thanks for your report. It's interesting to see how the animals tend to stay in the same areas. The samevloeiing lioness has become like the leopard everyone saw there last year.

I like your gecko pic. It struck me that the normal load noise of backing geckos was gone this time - I wonder why?

Windpomp Bywoners...they have become used to the windmills and stick around so the predators do as well...my good ol "takeaway theory"...never used to be like that...Animals used to migrate and follow the rain/grazing and the lions went with ...with the result that in my trip of 1977 ....3 weeks = no lions at Nossob and VERY little game as well!!!...everybody sees lion every day there now 12 months of the year and the numbers of cats hasnt gone up

@Restio, I agree, when we hit the pass I know our holiday has begun.
@Arks, you have a good memory as far as me recommending No 1 to you, but as far as saying thanks, your memory failed... you certainly did
@anne-marie, there is no sand to beat the beautiful red sands of the Kalahari
@GavinW, I don't even feel like responding to you You probably won't even see this comment because you will be on your way Wanted to fill you in on the latest, will sms you with a couple of 'tips' that could be helpful
@ingrid60, Glad you like the avatar , just to make sure I will be returning
@Michele,Those grasses and red dunes are waiting for your return
@lirritma, We also noticed the absense of the barking geckos. I asked the field guide at Nossob where they were and he said they are seasonal and it was starting to get too cold for them already.
@peterbetts, I'm not too sure that everyone sees lion everyday Seems like it when you read the forum, but I don't think it's so.
@icurrie, You have SO MUCH to look forward to. We're looking forward to meeting you soooon
@Wannabe Nerd, Here comes the little green man again
As far as getting those toes covered in red sand, make sure you check for Scorpions first Enjoy!!!!!!!
@Wandaw, I think that pic of the lion is a favourite of mine (one of the many I took of him )
@janneyc, Will cross fingers for you for Nossob. Try for a cancellation when you are there, we were lucky for additional night this last visit
@Pumbaa, pleased you are enjoying it. Must agree, the look on the lions face is really very loveable.
@Sable, special sightings like this one of he lion is one of the many reasons we keep returning.

Thanks MM, Mashona and leeS
@leeS -May Getaway

At 7.15 we were ready for our first morning drive.
Disappointed to see this sign!

Along the dunes road to the Auob we saw:
This gorgeous Steenbok

Northern Black Korhaan

We saw many many Secretary Birds on this trip

Many other birds seen but far to quick for decent pics so I decided I would rather enjoy watching them with the naked eye than struggling with the camera. A pygmy Falcon (also saw many, far more than ever before) flew down right in front of our moving car to catch an early snack. It was far too quick for us to even identify what he had taken.
These lovely Red Hartebeest were seen alone and in very large herds with plenty of young.

We soon discovered that we would be seeing thousands of the beetles. We were told they are called Koring Krik (Corn Cricket) beetles and that they eat each other.

Ostiches with babes, also lots and lots of sightings throughout the park.

This was a rare sighting for us. Don’t recall seeing any tortoises before.

Strangely, our very next sighting was another tortoise, this time a baby.

Returning to TR camp we decided to stop, watch and listen to the sociable weavers in the ‘famous’ Weavers Nest which is close to the entrance gate to the camp.
10 min’s after watching and looking through binos, SO says….”theres a snake” A beautiful big cobra making his was very slowly in and around the nest and bark of the tree.


Then, SO says….’there’s another snake!!” This time another cobra , much darker in colour. I was still trying to re adjust and focus on the second one when he quite calmly announced… there’s another snake !! This time a big Puff Adder on the ground.

He could not have been more than 5 metres away from us. I quickly take a pic of the puffie and the look up to get a pic of the second cobra just as he falls out of the tree and gets himself wedged between branches

That was the last time he moved. Could he have died from heart failure?? Looking through the binos, he was so tightly squashed in the region of his heart which we understand is situated about a third way down his body. We stayed for at least an hour and he never budged!!
The first cobra finally made his was down the tree to the ground and disappeared down a hole. We unfortunately could not wait for any re appearance as it was time to get back camp before gates were due to close.
For us this was an awesome sighting and we felt very happy to be so lucky, little did we know that the next morning was going to present us with another very, very rare sighting

These corn crickets look very much like the armoured crickets I've often seen in KNP. I'm wondering whether they are similar or even different names for the same cricket? Very much enjoying your entertaining report and unusual sightings!

Thank you all for your comments.
@ Arks, yes I think it is one and the same Beetle !
Working on my next instalment this am. This is a taster of what's to come

We left this morning for KTC, the Nossob road still closed (and that is how it was for the next 7 days)
Just before Auchterlonie, I call STOP!! Suricates. SO says, it's ground squirrels. Yes, maybe so, but amongst the ground squirrels were Suricates.
I'm going to attempt a video clip, if I don't succeed, I'm sure when MN gets home she will assist me
SO took all the videos so it's thanks to him that I can share it with you.
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2mobjfo&s=3
I know it's nature but I still felt ..shame..poor baby ground squirrel



It was only the one suricate that ate, the other ran off while one stood guard. All the time two other baby ground squirrels stood watching

Thanks for the responses to what we thought was probably quite a rare sighting.
Sorry the episode ended abruptly, I was fiddling around with trying to get the video clip link to work As you see, I finally got it right
After all the excitement a coffee break at Kamqua picnic spot was welcomed.
It was such a beautiful day, green grasses, blue skies and fluffy white clouds. We kept reminding each other just what a contrast it was to last Sept.

There were still plenty of puddles in the road from the previous weeks rain and alongside each puddle were these gorgeous butterflies

This stretch to KTC showed us many Secretary Birds, Kori Bustards, Snake Eagles, Ostriches with Chicks. Saw a lovely Wild Cat cross the road rather rapidly. Pity no chance for a pic to show you, he was very ginger looking. We hadn't seen one of that colouration before
We took the Dalkeith loop and on the top of the dunes were 6 rather sleepy lions and cubs. We thought it best to move on to KTC and come back for our late afternoon drive.
Edward and George welcomed us back to KTC. Great guys, friendly and very efficient. We were in Tent No 2 and only after being there for a few minutes were already saying we wish it could have been longer. Perfect view of a very full waterhole, but not any game in sight.
While SO had his regular afternoon 40 winks I took a walk up to the pool and just generally enjoyed the peace of the camp.
A pic of the pool area for those who have not had the opportunity to stay at KTC before.

During our drive to Dalkeith later in the afternoon, we spent quite some time with these giraffe right at the roadside


Our lions at Dalkeith were a little more active than earlier, quite playful, but not going to move down the dune.

We never tire of seeing springbok and at times like these we stop, switch the engine off and just watch and listen, *sigh* it's so peaceful

Bat-eared foxes were everywhere throughout the park. Previously we were lucky to get a glimse of them, now, every evening we had numerous super sightings of them. At times there were as many as 6 together I wished they would move closer together so I could get them in one pic, but no luck, I'm too slow for them

Another awesome day in KTP was coming to an end.

And this is how we enjoyed the evening chatting about how wonderful is was to be back. For the lucky ones who have been here before, you will understand when I say that the conversation was very similar....every evening

It is never pleasant leaving a camp knowing that it will be many months before you return there again, however, I was soon over that disappointed feeling and started enjoying the beautiful colours of the landscapes around me.



Just past Sitzas we saw our first Giraffe of the day.

And these Wildebeest having some fun

The Dalkeith lions from the previous evening had moved further along the dunes – still not going to entertain us any closer!
We were only heading as far as Urikaruus Camp so we had plenty of time to spare. We had coffee and rusks at 14th waterhole while enjoying watching a few Namaqua Doves. I must have been in an exceptionally ‘rustig’ (restful) mood as for some reason I don’t have many pics from this morning.
Pic of a tsamma melon, one of the many found alongside the roads and in the dunes.

After an exceptionally dry year last year and now all the rains, by the looks of things, the tsamma melons are going to be plentiful.
Between 13th Waterhole and Urikaruus Waterhole a sudden halt of the car and SO says “spotties”. Switched off and spent a long while watching as they briefly moved around.
They were continuously sniffing the air.


An interesting fact that we later read in an animal behaviour book, was that Hyaenas can pick up the aroma of a ripening carcass lying as far as 4km’s upwind!
A couple of other vehicles arrived, we pointed out where to look for the them and they too stayed, quietly watching them appear every now and then.


We enjoyed this sighting until some ‘idiot’... sorry but I have no other description for him… drove up and ‘stood up’ through the sunroof of the vehicle. Both the hyaena took off, up and over a ridge. We were by then ready to move along but were upset by the fact that the sighting was spoilt for all, by stupid selfish behaviour. (enough grumbling hey!!?... it just spoils things.)
Were welcomed to our favourite No 1 cabin at Urikaruus and for those who have been there before, I am sure you too received the same welcome.

It was a very hot, balmy afternoon and it looked as if the clouds were building up for a storm, but it was no to be.

The waterhole seemed strangely quiet, very, very few animals or birds as previously experienced. We do know that no season is the same, but this was unusually quiet.
When chatting to Marius, the camp assistant at Urikaruus, he said it had a lot to do with the water in the waterhole. It was really very green and when looking through bino’s you could see thousands of insects in the water and its surrounds. He said he was going to discuss this with ‘management’, he felt that the entire waterhole should be emptied and cleaned out. Who knows, whatever the reason could have been been, our 4 night stay at Urikaruus was quiet. A springbok passed through one afternoon, even the mongoose were surprised

This pic shows a pretty pink reflection cast by the setting sun.


We did feel disappointed by the lack of animals passing through, but our sightings out on our drives sure made up for it!!
The following morning, this beautiful sunrise was a sure a sign of the start of another glorious day in KTP

We left the camp a little later this morning, decided to enjoy a leisurely breakfast on the deck. For me..leisurley is 40 mins, then I need to move on!!
Headed towards Mata Mata and in the same spot as the day before, our hyaenas were there to greet us




Plus a bonus...no more than 200m down the road on the opposite side in the riverbed


A very sad state of affairs for some poor visitor

and a welcome sight for others

As mentioned earlier in my report, we were lucky with the roads most of the time. Had some bad luck towards the end but nothing to upset us that it spoilt our stay.

Then... you have all read of the Sitzas sightings We too enjoyed seeing the Cheetah and her cub. Not too close, but to watch through the binos was great.

At first we could not see the cub but later, on our return from Mata Mata we stopped again and saw them both moving off, further away , out of sight. The dark 'blob' on the right of Mum is her cub

We must not always think that early am is the only time for great sightings. This was around 12 midday!

The famous white faced owl in the tree outside the Mata Mata shop.


Lilac Breasted Rollers were plentiful, just love them


Between 13th and Urikaruus we got such a pleasant surprise, this has to be the youngest giraffe we have ever seen.

And then.. another, just ever so slightly bigger!!

Mum and baby


SO took some lovely video, but unfortunately is a bit too busy to edit for me right now...I'm hoping that a bit later tonight I'll be able to share it with you

Thank you to all for reading this report, your kind comments and for being so patient while I take forever to get on with it. I do have to share PC time with a daughter and her homework Does that sound familiar to some of you??

Ingrid60 - now I have put 2 and 2 together and only today have I seen the rest of your super trip report. Your sure did have some awesome sightings Back in Sept My favourite time is Sept!!

MM and MN, I realize that the Meerkat sighting was unique but also really quite sad to witness
MN, thanks for being patient...me too, don't want to push my luck

I have been so busy trying to catch up on all the other exciting (and some disturbing reports ), so now a quick episode from me before I crash into bed.

One of the many extra special treats we enjoy when staying at Urikaruus is when you leave for a drive in the early am or when you come back to camp in the late afternoon is that there are no other cars around. Well, that’s with the exception of the other guests staying in camp.
This morning we decided to drive south. We spent a lot of time watching the weavers and again enjoyed lovely sightings of Secretary Birds and Snake Eagles.

We passed one vehicle coming towards us around Montrose. He must have come from Kielie Krankie as it was still too early to have come all the way from TR.
We decided to travel to Batulama and then slowly make our way back. As we neared Montrose we saw the vehicle that we had passed had stopped. We stopped quite a distance away when all of a sudden……. leopard and cub.
We switched the engine off and excitedly discussed how lucky we were to see them. They looked so relaxed and we felt sure we would be watching these two for a while.


Cub, still relaxed

Mum watching cub, uncertain which way to run
Cub getting a bit nervous looking at tanker


Well, that was not to be. Suddenly the cub ran towards mum, then away from her, then back towards her. While doing this, she never took her eyes off the road. The reason for this was… one huge fuel tanker traveling towards Mata Mata. SO realized rather quickly that we had better start up and move closer, in fact, almost right up the bank of the road to allow him enough space to pass us. At the same time, Mum and cub ran across the road so quickly that by the time the tanker had passed, they were nowhere to be seen.
One moment we were saying how lucky we were and seconds later..… what bad luck!!! We see what we were longing to see and it is spoilt by a fuel tanker zooming by. I do know we need to be able to refuel or else we would be complaining, but to pass at a leopard sighting. Bad luck or what????? Brings to mind… what time did this tanker leave TR and then the next question, how fast had he been traveling to get there by the time he did??
We spent the next hour, up and down scanning the area, but sadly, leopard and cub not to be seen again.

It was after this wonderful experience of not just seeing a leopard, BUT a leopard WITH a cub, that I realised....
So what that the sun is in the wrong position , that they are partly in the shade , that I wish I had a better camera , that the darn fuel tanker came past ,
we had seen a leopard with a cub, in their surroundings... how lucky and privileged we are

censured... sorry,
you are right Michele