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After reading again so much nice and wonderful trip reports I decided that it is now time to share with you our impressions of our second visit to KNP in February 2005. Also in fact to shorten me the waiting time until February 2008 when our next trip to KNP will start.

Friday, 11.02.2005

This time everything went well with our flight and after arriving in time in JHB, after passport control also our luggage has arrived safely. In no time we made it to the car rental station and were on our way to KNP. We did not had any reservation for this night in BnD but we decided to drive through to KNP and see if any bungalow will be free for us so that we can already spent one more night in heaven. Although a Friday afternoon when arriving at Malelane no queue at the gate and after everything had been filled out we were definitely back in Heaven!

As it was already really late and we were now also very tired after our night flight we decided to take a slow drive on the tar road to BnD in no hurry. The first animals we saw as nearly usually “Impalas” how we have missed them – really wonderful to be back. Then 5 white rhinos unfortunately the light was not good as there was a thunderstorm coming.





Also an ellie crossed our way as well as a Marabou Stork.





We finally arrived in BnD and luckily there were still some bungalows free and we got one near the perimeter. After that long flight and drive to KNP we decided to do the walking trail in the camp to the shop to stretch our legs a bit. After a nice dinner in the restaurant this evening we fall death tired to bed.

Saturday, 12.02.2005

Due to the thunderstorm this night we woke up several times this night and were already awake before the alarm clock rings (this will definitely never happen on a normal working day). It was still dark outside but we already opened the door of our verandah and whilst still in bed we could hear and smell how KNP awoke this morning. Back in Heaven!!!

Thanks Griet, Jonty1, Icurrie and MM for your nice comments. This was really my intention– that’s what the forum is for – reading trip reports and packing bags and off to KNP…..or to bring back impressive memories…..

Our next camp in which we stayed was Crocodile Bridge so not a really long turn to drive to give us enough time to stop for everything. We drove first the Matjulu loop and then decided to drive via the S110 and the S 25 to Crocodile Bridge. On the first stretch of the S110 we saw nothing – as Ludwig said in his repost there is definitely never nothing to see that’s right we always see a lot but on this early morning – nothing – also no other cars!. Then we came across some lazy impalas and always a good opportunity to abuse these beautiful animals as models!



A Cape turtle dove was searching for something on the ground and then suddenly on the S110 one of the beautiful animals on earth just came directly in front of us into our direction.



I said to Hubby: “Is it a leopard or is my imagination driving me nuts?” “No, it is a real leopard”. It was a female one and she obviously was on a manhunt. She was walking very energetically into the same direction and luckily we did not disturb her in any way. We drove backwards several times and she still walked into the same direction. After around 10 minutes she crossed finally the gravel road and slipped into the grass where she nearly was invisible. As a last good-bye she jumped up on a broken trunk marking her territory and disappeared in the high grass. We waited some time, however, could not trace her any longer then another car arrived and we told them that they just missed a leopard.

Btw does that already count as LIT??

With trembling hands we drove further and still could not believe our luck. We came across again several impalas – of which this guy was in a stretching mood.



The birding was also quite good on that road and we could trace several birds which we did not see on our first visit to KNP. As our birding knowledge is not that good – although we already learned a lot – the birders of you are always welcome to correct us in case we identified a bird wrong.



This little vervet monkey is playing hide and seek.

To be continued….

Thanks Pardus and Elsa,

It seemed really that she was still feeding some cubs - she was so beautiful and that long tail! Never realized before that leopards do have such long tails.

Pardus - wanted to start earlier but in summer our weekends are always very busy but I now have enough time on weekends to share with all of you our memories.

We are still on our way to Crocodile Bridge Camp via the S25 (Crocodile River Road). This road is definitely a long gravel stretch and has got not much changes in the landscape also in the hot summer where the bushes are really dense.

A nice Swaison’s francolin crossed our way

We also met two small Ellies of which one obviously had a Homo Sapiens Phobia. The first one crossed the gravel road in front of our car without feeling disturbed by us, however, the other one did not want to cross the street in front of our car and hided himself in the dense bush. He got also very nervous that he could not follow the other one and still run on one side of the gravel road up and down. We gave him enough space so that he could feel himself comfortable and after some time he finally crossed the street and followed the other ellie.

Several lazy giraffes also came along.



Obviously it was Kingfisher time in KNP – we are always impressed by those colours and a curious turtle took a sunbath.


Also it was a good time for Zebras. In the hot midday heat when no other animas are around Zebras are normally always somewhere around in the whole KNP.


View from the S27 to the Hippo Pool. Unfortunately no ranger was around to take us to the Hippo Pool


Finally we reached Crocodile Bridge – what a lovely Camp – huge bungalows with enough space and the camp itself is very green with many trees to offer some shade in the heat. Also the Camp shop is well stocked. We regretted it already when we entered the gate that we were only booked for one night. We got Bungalow No. 12 and could watch some vervet monkeys who had stolen the Toast of our neighbours who left the toast outside. After visiting the Camp shop to buy some stuff for our Braai this evening and after a good cup of coffee we are already on our afternoon drive.

We took the S28 and in the far distance we could see a herd of buffaloes and also some White rhinos – unbelievable but true these were the last rhinos we was during this trip!!

Again many zebras and wildebeest came along our way.


Also the birding was again extremely good. We really had to watch out for the yellowbilled hornbills as they were always searching for something on the ground on the gravel road in front of our car so we only could drive very very slow.



As we were running out of time we had to turn around and drove the whole way back on the S28 to CB Camp to get back in time. Shortly before we reached the Camp a huge herd of buffs were crossing the street in front of us. Unfortunately it was already a bit too dark for some good pics but what an amazing sighting.
We made it back still in time and enjoyed our first Braai this year under the African firmament.

Sorry in the last installment I forgot to thank MM and Zypresse for their nice comments. This leopardess was really our once a lifetime sighting.

@Bert I love thunderstorms especially in KNP There are still 14 whole days to come so be prepared....

To be continued with the "Gang of 4".

Thank you so much Jonty1, Pardus, KDU and Wanderw for your compliments I have forwarded same to hubby who took most ot the pix. I am doing this for you who are homesick to the KNP.

Sunday, 13.02.2005

After a good sleep we had to leave Crocodile Bridge but we already decided that we have to visit this camp and also the surrounding roads again for a bit longer next time. In February it is very often the first half hour after gate has opened a bit dark but thereafter when the sun rose photo opportunities are getting better and better. After we have left a troop of baboons waived us goodbye. Followed by a herd of zebra of which one had this badly hurt, however, it seemed to be okay.


Then still on the tar road a traffic jam in which also several safari vehicles were involved. As it was still a bit dark we could first see nothing but then traced some yellow spots in the far distance. Our first pride of lions within this trip!!! Mom or another female member of the pride was really very patient with the cubs which were in a playing mood. We stayed with them for quite a while and enjoyed the cubs which were very active.



Thereafter we drove again the S28 which is one of our favourite roads especially in February when bushes and trees are very dense you will always have good viewing opportunities on that road and there are normally plenty of animals around. We saw giraffes, baboons, warthogs, lappetfaced vultures and again the yellowbilled hornbills which were still jumping in front of our vehicle on the ground to search for something. On the way to Nhlanganzwani waterhole we saw these two bateleurs in a tree – pix could be better but it was still a bit cloudy this morning.


After visited the hippos in this waterhole we headed forward to Lower Sabie for an urgently needed break but did not forget to do the turn to the Duke waterhole where some whitefaced ducks as well as carmine bee-eaters were around. On a tree we found this beautiful lilacbreasted roller who was in a posing mood.


It was getting hotter and hotter and we - after an icecream break - were on our way to Skukuza which was our next camp for the next two nights. On the H4-1 it was really very quite on this hot Sunday at noon. We visited the hippos and crocodiles at sunset dam and drove further to Skukuza but no animals on this famous road on that day. We only found a dead water monitor on the road which was hit by a car. After another break at Nkuhlu Picnic sport where again the vervet monkeys drove the people picnicking nuts we finally reached Skukuza and enjoyed a break from driving and photo shooting in our bungalow.

Our afternoon drive we spent on the Maroela loop where some baboons entertained us a lot. Also a small ellie was found in the dense bush.


On our way back to camp on the H4-1 some lions one after the other came directly in front of our car into our direction. We were not sure if the first one was a female but the following three were definitely male although their manes were really very poor. The first male was blind on one eye and was wearing a collar, the second one had a scar on his nose and the last one was limping on the left front leg!


These four were really a strange pride and we decided to call them our “Gang of 4”. Obviously they decided that their dinner would come to them instead of going hunting.


Again a wonderful day had passed and we again enjoyed our braai on our veranda with the roar of some lions somewhere behind the fence.

Another great instalment Pumbaa, your "gang of 4" certainly look like they could do with some feeding up, hopefully not TB infected.
BTW, your Roller looks like a European variety, but a lovely pic.

Thanks a lot Elsa, Zippy Zebra, Toddelelfe and Jonty for your nice words – keep it coming!

@Elsa, yes, the “Gang of 4” needed really some food. They were under observation due to the collar hopefully no TB. Thanks for correcting me regarding the roller we saw plenty of them. It seems that these rollers are only a summer visitor in KNP – correct?

Monday, 14.02.2005
In the early morning we awoke due to some rude rumbling which came from outside of our bungalow. We thought that the vervet monkeys did some party this night but we were wrong. When opening the curtain I stood eye in eye with a hyena. This hyena was really very huge – I always thought hyenas were much smaller but I was wrong. The hyena made the noise by turning over the dustbins to check out for the remains of our braai last night. I was just to get out to collect the rubbish which was distributed all over the grass in front of our verandah when Hubby asked: “You will not go out alone, will you?” I replied: “Why not – the hyena has gone”. He armed an empty Coca Cola bottle and gave back: “I come with you!”. So the first thing we did this morning was to collect our rubbish - I in my nighty and hubby with a Coca Cola bottle – needless to say that the hyena had never been seen again….

When leaving the camp for our morning drive we realized that the dustbins from each and every bungalow have been turned over and the rubbish was spread all over the camp.

We decided to take the S3 very close to the Sabie river and to the fence then take some breakfast at Pretoriuskop and then on the Napi road via Shitlhave and Vervoer waterholes back to Skukuza. Unfortunately it was very quiet this day and not much game around.

Here a view of the S3. It looks a bit like Pafuri, very green with lots of dense bushes.

A very shy bushbuck


and some dwarf mongoose. Every time when we drove further they disappeared in the long grass. As soon as we stopped they came back looking curious on the road so you had to be very careful when driving.


Birding was again excellent. We saw several African fish eagles, little egrets, greenbacked herons, Jacanas, Egyptian goose and whitefaced ducks. Many rollers and a Burchells’ coucal.


An ellie waving his ears to get some cooling


and an impie hiding in the high grass.


A pintailed wydah – unfortunately a bit far away. This bird is really very difficult to photograph as they are very active in flying from branch to branch so no time to change lenses on your camera.


A very famous rock near Pretoriouskop


Also we could trace some baboons, impalas, waterbucks, hippos and kudus.



After a coffee break in Skukuza we took another short afternoon drive but as the whole day also on this drive not much game around. On Mathekenyane rock we could find the wellknown klippspringer there and we had another encounter with an animal which we never saw before on the gravel road S114...

We only realized that there was lying a very thing branch diagonal over the road, however, due to the vibrations of our car on that road suddenly this “branch” jumped up and disappeared in high speed in the long grass. Wow – this could only be a black mamba – what a snake! Unfortunately too fast to take a pics.

Very hungry we lit again our fire to do some yummy braai. This evening we could hear ellies breaking branches on the Sabie riverbed whilst braaing.

Yes, the European Rollers are a common Summer visitor to Kruger.
Lovely trip report and pics once again Pumbaa.

Tuesday, 15.02.2005

Today we had to leave for 2 nights Satara and whilst leaving Skukuza we again realized that all dustbins of each bungalow have been turned over again this night, however, we did not hear or saw any hyena this morning. We first drove the main road H1-2 with a stop at each waterhole on the way. We watched and took some pictures of giraffes when a car stopped and told us that there are two lions at the Kruger tablets. We decided not to hurry and visited first Mantimahle and Olifantsdrinkgat. When we passed the Kruger tablets the lions had already gone their way. We got out of our car there but with some strange feeling our break there took not really long.

Saddlebilled storks, terrapins, grey herons, African fish eagles, a lot of crocodiles and the territory hippos at Siloweni came along our way.



A quick visit at Orpen Dam and then we are again back on the main tar road heading forward.



After we drove the N’waswitsontso loop without much animal activity we found at Kumana waterhole our first highlight of the day. This waterhole was filled with animals. We counted 3 male kudus, a family of warthogs, several waterbuck families, 2 male impalas in a fight and 1 (!) wildebeest.



We spent around 1 hour with all of them. It was really fantastic as we did not see so many different species so close together before. The Southernmost Baobab tree was also a must stop and then we turned onto the S125 and then right to the S36 leading to the Muzandzeni picnic spot.

Not much game around on these roads but we got some good shots of a giraffe family where Mom decided to have a closer look at us. On the second picture you can see clearly how high the grass was in this year.



Close to Muzandzeni picnic spot we spotted a very shy Kudu bull hiding in the grass and a family of waterbucks. We cannot help but we fell in love with these animals. For us it is always pleasure and a really good feeling watching and to be close to them. Call us sentimental or whatever you want…..



It was already late after lunch time which we spent on the picnic spot which is located really in the middle of nowhere and really hot and dusty this day and the last stretch of the S36 took longer and longer. Finally on Nsemani Dam we had the second highlight of the day as this dam was filled with elephant bulls taking a bath, doing some bull fights or doings just the things elephants do normally. Also a delivery van decided to take a break and observe this spectacle for quite a long time.



Needless to say that we returned to this waterhole several times during our stay in Satara.

On the H7 leading to Satara we traced some of our North European “Klapperstorch” in the grass searching for some frogs before taking off for the long long flight back.



And also the rest of this tar road was filled with several herds of zebras this day.



Finally we reached Satara and we were awarded with bungalow No. G165 close to the perimeter. This camp is also one of our favourite in KNP. The silence and view you have on the G circle is always something special and also nearly all the roads around Satara are offering high class game viewing opportunities.

After this long drive which we did this day we decided to do only a short afternoon drive just a bit north on the H1-4 outside of Satara, not much game around but then we had the final highlight on this day. A lone elephant bull with great tusks was scratching his back and then started to feed under a Marula tree. He was very relaxed and we disturbed him in no way. Maybe some of you can help to identify him.



After a really good dinner together with a bottle of very tastefull South African wine we still enjoyed the darkness, the voices somewhere out there and the rest of this evening on our verandah.

Wednesday, 16.02.2005

Again another day in paradise awoke and we are still in between. First road we drove today was the famous S100 also a plentiful discussed road on this forum but still one of our favourite. On the one side you have a good view over the African savannah and it is nearly almost possible to spot animals in the far distance as the bushes are not that dense there and on the other side you have got some nice views into the N’wanetsi river.

The first animals we spotted today were a family of Ground hornbills


and between Shibotwana and Nasane waterholes this road was filled with several herds of wildebeests and several herds of zebras. It was amazing to be part of them. We watched the interaction between the several herds quite a long time. The wildebeests “chief” bulls made it quite clear which territory and which herd belongs to them. Also the light was brilliant on that morning.




This little zebra shot is one of our favourite pictures from this trip.



We did the obligatory stop at Gudzani Dam and took a look at the hippos living there, saw some glossy ibises in the trees and this “little” giant kingfisher was really very active in fishing but he returned after trying to catch some fish always to the same branch making it a bit more easier for us to take some nice pictures from him.



On the Gudzani road where you have to cross the N’wanetsi via a small pontoon we discovered this “Klaffschnabel” – sorry I only know the German name – maybe somebody can help to translate.



After taking a short view and rest at N’wanetsi picnic spot we drove the main tar road H6 back to Satara. Again here we saw plenty of zebras, several giraffes, some ostriches (btw our first ones in KNP) and some ellie bulls.



However, before we returned to Satara for a midday break we just wanted to take a short look at “our ellies” at Nsemani dam and they were still there and did the same which they already did the day before, taking baths and doing some bull fights. Also it seemed that the ellies where the same we saw already yesterday. This afternoon also the territorial hippos did some bull fights and it was again quite some action at this waterhole on this hot summer day.



We finally returned to our bungalow, did some shopping for our braai this evening and then I wanted to search for some Marulas. The tusker from yesterday evening made me curious and as angels are always curious and normally have to smell and touch all the things they do not know I wanted to taste a Marula! It was really not difficult to find them inside the camp as there are several Marula trees around and also some staff members already started to collect them. I had found my Marula and took it proudly to our bungalow and tasted…..Uuarh….I prefer these fruits definitely as Amarula and as jam. As raw product I will leave them for the ellies.

For our afternoon drive we decided to first again take a visit at Nsemani dam and then the main road H7 to Orpen with a stop at Bobbejaan krans and at the Ratelais hut we returned via the S106 back to Satara. Unfortunately this afternoon not many animals around and also our ellies at Nsemani had left, however, this dam was now filled with some huge crocodiles. Besides some zebras, warthogs and some impalas we saw nothing on these roads. We thought we could find some cheetahs there as this is also one animal which we desperately were looking for and on the sight board Cheetahs were discovered there. Unfortunately no luck today!

On the way back to Satara we traced this juvenile bateleur in a tree.



Another dry branch was filled with this blackbellied starlings sparkling in the evening sun.




Today’s braai was again fabulous, however, the grass around the bungalows was filled with frogs this evening and they started already to jump on to our verandah so you had to watch your step not to step on a frog. We decided that 2 nights at Satara was really not enough. There are still so many roads to explore. This year we already stayed 3 nights there but what to say also not enough….

To be continued with the story of the two Dagga Boys in the Timbavati River

thanks

maybee an openbill stork ? (bec ouvert indien)

Yes indeed, an open-billed stork.
The dutch name is Afrikaanse gaper.

Great pictures, Pumbaa.

Was your marula ripe? Ripe marulas are quite good, although the fleshy bit is a bit on the meagre side. We once found a marula tree that had abnormally fleshy fruits - it was like biting into a peach! Delicious .

Thanks Anne-Marie, Anja and Senyetse.

@Anne-Marie + Anja - Thank you for the translation and now I learnt also the French and Dutch version This forum is just wonderful. It feels really good to be part of it.

@Senyetse - I guess the Marula was not ripe - I also thought they will taste like peaches or yellow plums but really not my turn. Next year I will try to find a riper one and give it another try.