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 Post subject: TexasBoer and Linda in SANParks - July 2007
Unread postPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:59 pm 
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It’s Tuesday morning, 6:00 AM …

I’m dressed up in my ZOL-pants and my comfy shirt… (ZOL = zip-off-legs… I know it’s kinda touristy :redface: , but damn, they are so comfortable and convenient!)

My recently acquired Kruger mug is filled with fresh, steaming coffee… :lotsocoffee:

I AM READY! :thumbs_up:


But there’s just one little problem… :cry:

I’m sitting here in my home office in Houston, and all I have left are memories and photos of a wonderful trip through South Africa, during which we (myself and my fiancée Linda) visited four national parks. But there’s no better way to relive the wonderful moments (and the not-so-wonderful ones) than to do some trip reports.

I can’t believe how fast the last 6 weeks have gone by… It feels like yesterday that we we’re getting on the plane to South Africa (via Paris), filled with a mixture of excited and nervous anticipation. I have not been in South Africa for 8 years and not been in Kruger for 15 years – how have things changed? Will I be disappointed in what I see? Will I still be able to remember all the places I used to visit so regularly? And as for Linda – this was the first time she would be in Africa, and the first time in the southern hemisphere… I could sense that she was a lot more nervous than me!

During our four-week trip we spent a week with my family in Barkly East and had a nice big reunion there to celebrate my mom’s 80th birthday :clap: and toured through a lot of the country (drove over 6,000 km!). We spent a total of 8 nights in National parks (one in Karoo, one in Addo, and 6 in Kruger) and also made day-trips to Table Mountain, Boulders, and Cape Point :dance: .

I will compile the report for the “other” parks in segments per park, and the Kruger report on it’s own.

Part 1: Karoo National Park to follow soon.


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 Post subject: Part 1: Karoo NP - July 17, 2007
Unread postPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 2:27 pm 
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Part 1: Karoo National Park

July 17, 2007


With great excitement we reached the entrance gate to Karoo NP at about 5:30 PM after a pretty long eight-hour drive. Just in time for the sun setting behind the majestic Karoo Mountains, but alas, my camera stuff was still packed in the trunk, and it was getting dark very quickly. (Note to self: gotta have your camera at the ready ALL THE TIME!)

(This phot was actually taken the next day, but it is appropriate here)
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We were met by a very friendly guard at the entrance gate, got the entry permit, and made our way to the camp and reception office.

Isn’t it amazing how your whole mood changes the moment you drive through a National Parks gate? Suddenly this big calm and a feeling of peace came over me, but at the same time my senses became alive and quickly got into “search-mode”. I can now concentrate on finding wildlife, rather than looking out for overfilled vans going 100 miles per hour!
Aaahhhh… it is good to feel this way again!

On the way to the camp we saw some kudus browsing on the hillside, a couple of ostriches, a lonely red hartebeest, and some zebra. They were too far and the light was too bad to see if they were Mountain Zebra or Burchell’s – but they did have black and white stripes (or was it white and black stripes? – I always get confused).

The welcome at reception was another great experience – we bought our wildcards and checked in very efficiently, and after a quick tour of the shop, were on our way to our cabin. The only disappointment I had at reception, was the total lack of a good information brochure about the park. I always like to read something about the history, fauna, flora, and other interesting stuff about where I am. There wasn’t even a booklet or anything about this park to buy! We did get a couple of very basic pamphlets about birds, mammals and reptiles. These were handy checklists, but didn’t give much detailed information. Couldn’t find any information about the Riverine Rabbits either :cry: .

Back at the cabin… very cozy, efficient, clean, and with a glorious view of the Karoo Landscape. This would be a wonderful place to sit and have a sundowner, watching the sun setting over the mountains. (Note to self: next time make sure you are here before sunset, and have the Amarula ready at hand!)

We decided that after the long day’s drive, we’d have dinner in the restaurant – just as well because our neighbor “occupied” our braai as well as his. He was very apologetic and thought that the cabin was going to be empty and had what looked like a whole lamb and five chickens too cook. No problems buddy – we’re not going to use it anyway. After dinner (delightful and quiet) we sat on the front “stoep” and just took in the quiet and beauty of a South African evening, gently sipping an Amarula… (OK… some of us more like gulped the first one down, and then settled for a gentle sip of the next one… or two… or… who’s counting anyway!)

What a wonderful, peaceful feeling I had as I laid in bed, drifting off to a blissful sleep in Wild South Africa…

To be continued… (with a few more photos - I promise!)


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Unread postPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 2:33 pm 
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BB we had a great time at the meet too and it was wonderful to meet y'all!

Linda and "boerekos"? - well that's a whole other story!!!! :? Let's just say that we had to make a whole lot more pitstops on our tour than I would think is reasonable :wink:
Nuff said!


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Unread postPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:14 pm 
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July 18, 2007 – Karoo NP.

I lazily opened my eyes and noticed that the first sign of daylight is just showing… Then suddenly I realize where I am – in a National Park – and immediately I’m wide awake! I jump up with such a speed that Linda yells, “what’s wrong?” “Nothing dear – everything is RIGHT! Now let’s get up and get going – the bush (or is it the Karoo bossies) is calling”.

I stand on the “stoep” (porch), sipping my early morning coffee and stare over the landscape that is slowly emerging from the dark of the night… I spot some zebra and kudu lazily browsing on the slopes of the mountain in the distance…

After another quick cup of coffee, we set off for a drive, just as the sun comes up. There are some spots of fog in to lower laying areas, and it is an almost unbelievably calm… a feeling you can only get our here in nature.

Our friendly neighbor (yeah the one that “stole” my braai) told us that they saw a black rhino in the valley where the Lammertjiesleegte road meets the main entrance road early the day before. We searched through the fog and bushes, but to no avail. Guess he is grazing in different spot today.
The first animals we see are these Mountain Zebras grazing on a far-off ridge. What a glorious sight in the early morning sun!
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A Karoo Korhaan (I think?) crosses the road in front of us, and just as I have it in focus, it turns away, ducks its head and heads off into the bushes.
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We tour around the lammertjiesleegte circle and see Gemsbok, Kudu, Springbok, Ostriches, Zebra and a lot of lbj’s, but all the animals are very skittish and too far away for decent photos.

We stop at the Bulkraal picnic site. This is a delightful place and I love the way they have each picnic spot (with a braai) cut out in the bush for secluded privacy. Wish we had time to cook up a leisurely breakfast here!
On the way back to camp this Sringbok is on a mission to somewhere. I just manage to get some kind of a photo of him walking away from us at a very brisk pace!
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Then finally we see a majestic male ostrich, fairly close to the road, with the light from the right side! I got one “square” photo, but as soon as he heard the shutter, he twirled around and head off…
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I think I’m starting to sense some kind of trend here…

Back at the Cabin, we pack up and go for breakfast at the restaurant. What a pleasant surprise – the breakfast is included in the accommodation price!!! What a bargain!
A few photos of the cabins:
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We go for a quick walk of the fossiltrail. This is really neat, and have heaps of very interesting information about the history (very old history) of this area. There sure have been some creepy creatures here in the past! This is a “must do” for anyone visiting the park – and make sure you allot enough time (1-2 hours) for this!
Start of the trail and petrified tree
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Ancient Nasties (smiley and toofy?)!
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Linda is really impressed with our “thorny things”, and I am obligated to take a photo.
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We then take the drive up Klipspringer pass. What a lovely drive!!! Well, at least I,m enjoying it – Linda, having lived in Houston all her life (where the highest “peak” in a 25 mile radius is only about 50 feet), have some white knuckles and a lot less color in her cheeks, by the time we get to the top!
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However, once there, I think she enjoys the view – and so do I.
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On this whole drive we didn’t see any klipspringers – nor any other animals, except this “dassie” (Rock Hyrax). I noticed that the mammals’ checklist for the park refer to it a “Rock Dassie” – is this correct?
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We make a quick stop at the bird hide. This is a great hide with a wonderful view for birds in the reeds and in the water, as well as for animals that may come to drink in the afternoon. I think I can sit there for hours enjoying the view and creatures... But not enought ime for that today!
Red Billed Teal on the pond, and I can’t resist the light on this grass seed!
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Since we have some time to spare before we have to depart for Cape Town, we decided to go for another loop around lammertjiesleegte to see if the animals were less skittish now (hoping the sun made them too lazy to move away from the road).

We don’t see anything more than earlier in the morning, and most of the animals are bedded down for a rest, and far away from the road. One highlight is a very distant view of some of the “quagga-like” zebras. This photo is a cropped section, taken with a 560mm telephoto (400mm plus 1.4X converter). Needless to say – they are “dooooeeeerrrrrr ver” (waaayyyyy over yonder!). The stripefree bums are clearly visible on the one in the center. I wonder if the project to “resurrect” the quagga will really work in the end? Does anybody have more information on its progress?
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This steenbok was obliging with a nice pose (for about 3 seconds) before she too turned around and hopped away…
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At about 1:00 PM our whirlwind 20-hour visit to the Karoo NP came to an end – all too soon – and we headed out on our way to Cape Town.

To be continued…. (Karoo NP Epilogue)


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Unread postPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:58 pm 
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Thanks Freda

Freda wrote:
Hope Linda can pronounce lammertjiesleegte better than I can :lol:


:roll: :roll: Uuuhhhhmmm... I've tried for more than a month to get her to pronounce "Vereeniging" in a way that South Africans might have a chance to understand - but without any success... I'm not even going to try "lammertjiesleegte"!!! :twisted:


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Unread postPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:14 am 
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Wow great report TB! :D. We were in Karoo NP in December. What a place. We will be back in December 2008.

Oh and that thorny thing (in case you don't know) is the sweet thorn or soetdoring probably one of the most widespread trees in Southern Africa. :wink:

_________________
Dec '11 - Storms River
June '12 - Berg-en-Dal


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Unread postPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 3:47 pm 
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Karoo NP – The final verdict

If I can give one word for this park it would be “GEM”. It shines with a spectacular glimmer in the midst of the arid and almost desolate Karoo – a must experience!

This was my first visit to this park and it must be pretty obvious from my report that I was extremely impressed.

The atmosphere was wonderful, the people were friendly, and the service was good.

The landscapes capture the wonderful beauty of the Karoo and many of its different ecosystems in a relatively small area.

The cottages are cute, yet comfortable, convenient and very clean. I just love the architectural style and it fits in so well with the landscape.

The fossil trail is well worth a visit – but you need about 1-2 hours to give justice to all the information.

Game viewing was not as good as in Kruger, for example. The animals all seem very skittish (except for the ostriches) and sightings were mostly in the distance. For someone who is just out for "animal hunting" this park may be a disappointment, but for me it had such an atmosphere of peace and tranquility that the animal sightings were just a bonus!

I did not have the time to do a night drive or go on the 4X4 guided route. I think both of these would be worth-while doing and is definitely on my list for the next visit.

I did not have a look at the camping area, and maybe someone else can comment on that.

My only gripe (as mentioned earlier in the report as well) was the total lack of good information and/or reading material about the park and its inhabitants. SANParks, please get something for us curious minded people!

My Recommendations:

This is a wonderful stop between Cape Town and the north, but don’t just spend one night here. There is enough to keep you intrigued for at least two nights and two days!

Don’t worry about cooking breakfast – it’s included in the cottage price!

Make sure you have a good pair of binoculars, and for photographers a long telephoto. My 400mm was often not long enough! (Note to self: gotta save more seriously for that Canon 600mm F4.0 L before the next visit!). For landscapes a wide angle lens is also critical (this is big sky country!)

Spend enough time on the fossil trail and at the bird hide. I think the afternoon would be wonderful at the bird hide – the angle of the sun would be just right, and there are lots of signs that quite a number of animals come there to drink.

Have a picnic (or lunch) at Bulkraal!

Go on the night drive and 4X4 trail.

Enjoy this wonderful gem of the National Parks!!!


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Unread postPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 3:20 pm 
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Table Mountain – July 19, 2007

What a view to wake up to!!!!
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I was really concerned about the weather in Cape Town when I planned our trip. I know that you can get really lousy weather in July! I was so excited when I stepped out on our porch and saw this view – we’re going to see the sun today!!! Yippeeeee!!!!

I yelled at Linda “Get up!!! We’re going up the mountain and have go before the weather changes!” Old van Hunks was already smoking his pipe like crazy, and the forecast gave a 60% chance of rain.

We decided to do the touristy thing and use the cable car to get to the top. There was almost nobody in line and we did not have to wait at all!
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Poor Linda! As soon as the cable car started to rotate (I think it’s great to do that!), she hollered, “the floor is moving!” and I see her face turning "a whiter shade of pale" and her eyes got that blank, far-off stare. Sorry Linda, but I couldn’t help laughing! She made it to the top without getting seasick.

As we approached the top and I looked at the shear rock faces, it brought back a lot of memories from days gone by. When I was at university (of Pretoria – yeah TUKS!) many, many years ago, we often went to do rock climbing on Table Mountain. That is an indescribable experience and will stay with me forever. No wonder I still get goose bumps when I think of Table Mountain and see those rock faces.
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It’s such an exhilarating feeling to stand on top of Table Mountain. It feels like you can see forever – in all directions.
Shortly after we reached the top, I came across this celebrity (can anyone identify him?)
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I thought it was very funny – the only American celebrity I ever came across in public (after being around the USA for almost 15 years) was here on Table Mountain in South Africa – how ironic! They seemed to be doing some documentary with a small boy. At one stage the boy managed to disappear and created quite a stir!!!!

We only stayed on top for about 2 hours before we went to our next stop – Boulders!

Here is a small selection of photos from Table Mountain:
180° panorama (from 5 photos) of Cape Town and Table Bay.
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9-photo panorama (180°) of the southwest view from the curio shop/cafeteria:
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Sunbird (Orange Breasted?) enjoying some nectar (please help with identification)
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A different view of Cape Town
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Framed in flowers
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Obligatory poses:
Linda
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Yours truly
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Ericas
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Finally, late that afternoon – after returning from Boulders:
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A perfect way to end a perfect day…

Oops… it was not the end of the day yet – there was still a forum meet to take place!!! Now THAT WAS A PERFECT WAY TO END A PERFECT DAY :dance:

For those who have high speed internet, here's a link to the gallery with bigger (and more) photos. http://www.pbase.com/jpvn/070719_table_mountain


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Unread postPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 4:16 am 
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Table Mountain – final notes and comments:

Table Mountain IS one of the wonders of the world. Rightfully so, it should be one of the most visited and most recognized places in the world. It is simply awesome and I don’t think anybody can ever look at it and not be amazed at its grandeur and beauty!

If I can have one word to describe it, it would be “CROWN”. Even though Table Mountain (at least the section I visited) does not have the typical “National Park” feeling to it, it is still one of the most exhilarating places to visit in the whole world!

I was delighted to find the “tourist” area so clean and spotless – kudos to the people who take care of it! I can just imagine how tough this job would be with all the people visiting, but it was impeccable!

One negative observation – I didn’t see a single dassie (Rock Hirax)! I remember during my previous visits, there were hundreds of them around. What happened to them?

If you go to South Africa, you MUST visit Table Mountain – you will not regret it. And do allow enough time to be on top. The angle of the sun changes throughout the day, and especially views over Table Bay and Cape Town are better towards the late afternoon. (I did not allow myself this luxury and have to live with quite a few photos with not so ideal lighting!

And now... I raise an Amarula toast to Table Mountain - the crown of SANParks. :thumbs_up:


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Unread postPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 4:22 pm 
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Boulders & Penguins – July 19, 2007

From Table Mountain we headed for Boulders. We went along the west coast via Hout Bay and Chapman’s Peak. I just love this piece of road! However, a certain section of our party grew up and lived in Houston for all her life. For those that don’t know Houston, let me explain a bit. For about a 100 mile (160 km) area, there is absolutely no elevation – it is just plain FLAT. The highest point in the area is about 12m above sea level – and that is a manmade overpass! And all the roads go pretty much straight. The Chapman’s Peak drive is slightly different! Linda was pretty quiet… and I noticed that she has also turned pretty pale in the face – not to mention her knuckles! At one point I was trying my best to see if there may be a whale around… She broke the silence in no uncertain terms!!!!

I’m digressing… on to Boulders.

After parking in the “designated spot” we took the stroll down to the penguins – fully armed with all my camera stuff. I thought, “I sure hope we get to see a penguin or two”, thinking that it is just a chance sighting for the lucky… Boy was I in for a surprise!!!!

Thanks to the Wildcard, entry was quick and free! Before we even started the walk on the boardwalk, I spotted the first penguins!! They were kind of hidden in the bushes, so we decided to walk down to the shore…

WOW!!!!! There were penguins all over the place – hundreds of those delightful little creatures. Some just sitting in the afternoon sun… some walking around… some babies with their parents in a hollow in the sand… some calling out for a mate – or do they just call for fun? Sometimes it seems like that…I was soooooooo excited – my first ever sightings of penguins in the wild!!! I felt like a child at my own birthday party.
After my excitement settled down a bit, I managed to take a couple of photos – OK… maybe a couple of hundred!!!!
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I think they did a wonderful job with the way the walkway was constructed. You can get real close to the penguins, but still they are able to go about their business undeterred. It really felt like they were not even aware of the people a mere meter or so from them.

Being there in late afternoon, we were able to see them coming home from the fishing grounds – or is that fishing waters? This is a “must-see” sight – incredible!!! The way they make their way from the deep sea, jumping and diving through the water… getting ever closer to the shore… and then the whole group (flock?) takes the final wave together to hop on to the beach… I couldn’t help but joining in the spontaneous applause of the audience at this magnificent sight!!!!
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For a while I put my camera away and just sat there at the end of the boardwalk, taking in the beauty and serenity of this wonderful scene and experience… I couldn’t help to think about the time, way back when in the seventies, when we came down to this beach to scuba dive around the boulders. No penguins then. It is so wonderful that in this day and age, we (humans) can accommodate wildlife like this and thereby expand their natural occurrence. There is hope for humans and wildlife to coexist peacefully on this planet!!!!!

How quickly can time fly when you’re having such a good time, and all too soon we had to leave the penguins and head back to Cape Town – we had a forum meet to attend!

Some final thoughts about Boulders:

Kudos to SANParks for the way they designed the area – the way that we can get up close to the penguins without any interference. It is wonderful to be so close and in the midst of these delightful creatures without impeding on their behavior and life.

The place was spotless!!!! Kudos to SANParks for the upkeep, and kudos to the visitors for not making a mess out there.

My final thought: This is the best (and cheapest!) place to get therapy for a troubled or depressed soul. Spending some time with these penguins just creates a feeling of happiness and jubilation inside you. Even now, as I am sitting here writing and thinking about it, I can feel my spirit being lifted!!!

Keep guard my friend....
Image

I WILL BE BACK!!!!!!!!!


For those with high speed internet access, here's some larger (and a few more) photos.


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Unread postPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:58 pm 
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Cape Point – July 21, 2007

After such a glorious day yesterday (one that you don’t often get in Cape Town in July), we woke up to one of those typical western cape winter days… dreary, rainy, windy, and just plain miserable. I went out on the balcony and looked in the direction of Table Mountain… Boo hoooo hoooo…. :cry: :cry: Somebody took it away… can’t even see the lower cable car station…

Well… there’s nothing we can do about the weather – so just make the most of it and be VERY thankful for the day we had yesterday.

No rush today – so we had a very nice long and leisurely breakfast. We then went for a drive around the cape flats to go visit a winery. We went to the one that has the cheetah-breeding program. Maybe the weather just had me down, but I was not impressed at all. It is worse than a zoo, with the poor animals constrained to a 20m square meshed-wire fence. I guess I just prefer to take my chances in the wild, and risk not even seeing one, than seeing them under these circumstances. All the time I had to try and make myself feel better by saying that at least they are breeding the cheetahs and doing something good in that regard.

We didn’t stay for too long, and after a quick stroll around the property, we headed out towards Cape Point. I was not very optimistic (due to the weather), but still hoped for a little clearing in the weather… Well, that did not happen!

After entering the park (free again - thanks to the wildcard!) the rain REALLY came down in buckets and the wind was blowing like it’s trying to blow us all the way back to America!!! We didn’t see anything (and I mean ANYTHING – hardly could see the road!), until we got to the parking lot at Cape Point.
This is all we saw at Cape Point.
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In the parking area we saw this fellow…I think he sums up our day pretty accurately!
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After a quick pit stop to answer nature’s call (and getting thoroughly drenched even with an umbrella), we headed back. I decided to take the excursion to the Cape of Good Hope point, and there we found a little let-up in the rain… but still dreary, cold and windy! At least we managed to get proof that Linda was there!
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On the way back, we found the only animal for the day (except for the soggy baboon earlier). This Bontebok was just standing there in the rain, chewing away as if nothing is happening!
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That was about it for this day… Oh well, I look at this way – we had two days in Cape Town, and according to the averages, the sun shines less that one in four days during July. We beat the odds with one in two, so we can’t complain too much!
Oh yeah – on the way back to Cape Town over the mountains, I started to hear a very alarming noise in the car's brakes. You know, that metal-grinding noise that says you should have replaced the brake pads about 5,000 km ago…That was the start of our rental car blues!!! But that’s a whole other story (or rather saga). Let’s just say that during the next 15 days, we had to change rental cars 4 times!!! (note to self: don’t use National/Alamo car rental ever again.)
Tomorrow we are off to the southeast coast, slowly making our way to Addo, and then on to Kruger via KZN… Maybe we can see a whale or two on the way…

Larger and more photos here


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