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Kruger Trip Report – August 2006
Day 1 – Sunday 13 August 2006 – Crocidile Bridge

THE DAY had finally arrived. We left Durban just before 5.00 a.m. and had a wonderful clear drive through Swaziland to KP. Being a Sunday the roads and border posts were very quiet. We arrived at Crocidile Bridge at 11.20 a.m. The queue for checking in was relatively long, one person informed us that at Malelane the queue was so long that he decided to drive down to CB. After sorting out the Wildcard that had expired ( I had tried to renew it over the phone when it expired and was told to do it when I went to the park), we were finally done at six minutes to 12.00 only to be told that check-in time was only from 12.00 so they could not give us our chalet keys!! Rules are rules!! Rather than argue, we went and filled up with petrol and walked in just after 12.00 and received the keys to cottage 16.

Within a few minutes, food was packed away, suitcases dumped in the room, bladders emptied and away we went. We stopped at the Gezintfombi Dam for 15 minutes just to soak in the atmosphere of KP.

The S28 was fairly busy with general game including a large herd of buffalo towards Macs waterhole. We saw our first two elephants here as well. Little did we know that by the end of the trip we would hardly be stopping for them any longer. They are really abundant in the south of the park and Carol agrees with a lot of forumites who feel a safe distance to watch them from is about 100 metres and facing away from them for a quick getaway.
This impala seems to have had a close shave!


Along the S82 we saw what I think is a Burchells Cougal. I have never seen one of this size. The biggest I have previously seen is about half this size. Unfortunately I could not get a clear picture of it but I would be pleased if the experts can confirm what it is.


On the S108 in the Bume riverbed we spent a while watching elephants play and slowly meander down the riverbed. From the viewpoint we were far enough from them to have a good sight without getting stressed.


Although Chalet 16 is not on the riverfront, we were very comfortable. The light and generator noise mentioned on the forum did not bother us at all.

Although Crocidile Bridge is a relatively small camp, I don’t think I will choose to stay there again. This has nothing to do with the accommodation which we found to be clean and comfortable. We enjoy the quieter roads and areas and found that with CB being an entrance gate for a lot of day visitors, it was very busy on certain days. Being in camps away from entrance gates, eliminates the traffic in the early morning and closing time.

Afternoons viewing
Gezintfombi Dam – Hippo, waterbuck, impala
S28 – Wildebeest, zebra, buffalo (large herd), giraffe, warthog, grey lourie, elephants, longtailed shrike and lilac breasted rollers.
S137 – giraffe family and zebra
H4-2 – elephant, giraffe and buffalo
S82 – Burchells cougal, zebra
H5 – Impala, zebra and tree squirrel (we saw a lot of these on the trip)
S108 – elephant, giraffe and zebra

DAY 2 – Monday 14 August 2006 – Crocidile Bridge

The plan today was to drive directly to Lower Sabie and then do the S30. We were out of camp a few minutes after six and as we passed the S28, I glanced up the road and noticed a few dark shapes about 400 metres up. We therefore turned onto the S28 and found the resident pride of lions. Being the first car there, we had first class seats although the light was not yet good for picture taking. Having read the excellent tutorials on the forum, I am still experimenting. As the light improved, so did the quality of the pictures!


As the lions were taking up the one half of the road and we were taking up the other half, very soon we had about 15 cars behind us waiting their turn. That is when we decided it was time to move on. Due to the traffic behind us we had to continue along the S28.

We came across the morning drive vehicle a little way along the road and informed them of the lions. Once he reached the lions he must have radioed the second morning drive vehicle, because this van came hurtling down the road at about 80 kms. It is a pity that even the staff do not set a good example and keep to the speed limit.

The southern part of the S28 produced lots of general game and later on we came across a Bateleur Eagle.

A quick pit-stop at Lower Sabie produced the one and only yellow ribbon we saw during our trip. Unfortunately we could not find the driver of the vehicle. Along the S128 we saw 2 black-backed jackal. They were on the road walking away from us so we could not get any pictures. Onto the S30 and this giraffe must have had a harrowing experience the night before. It did not look too comfortable and at one stage tried to lick its tail but it was a futile exercise. We felt for the giraffe without its fly swatter. Surely its injury will become infected?

We found the S30 a lovely quiet road and the surface was reasonable. Although we did not see any cats, we came across different animals. Will someone please identify the monitor in the tree for us.



Onto the H4-1 and traffic. A few elephant crossing the road caused a traffic jam in next to no time.

After the next pit-stop at Skukuza we stopped in at Lake Panic. What a wonderful setting! It is the first time we have been there. The setting and birdlife is the best we have come across in the park although we are new to birding so have not visited many of the hides.


Along the S3 just before the intersection with the S4, we came across 2 lionesses lying in the grass. Being in a sedan vehicle, we could not get a good view of them. The one we did see clearly before she moved into the bushes did not look in the best of health. Outcasts?

Along the S4 and a friendly elephant family slowly meandering along the dry riverbed.
We were by now running late so it was a drive home without seeing too much.

As the report that I had done contained too many pictures, I have trimmed the number down a bit and split the report.
. If life is rushing past
And you are not sure if you are Arthur or Martha

And you cannot get your

Ducks in a row. Take a trip to into nature. Sit back,
Relax

And have a hairdo

And before you know it everything will come right.

DAY 3 – Tuesday 15 August 2006 – Crocodile Bridge
Morning outing
Another hot day with the temperature reaching 38. As per usual, we were out of the gates a few minutes after 6. We drove along the H4-2 and by the time we reached the H5, the only thing we had seen were a few impala and a couple of giraffe. A few hundred metres along the H5 and two white rhino greeted us.

Afew zebra and then along the S108 some giraffe and wildebeest. Onto the S26 and for 10,5 kms absolutely nothing. Do you ever get that feeling that maybe you should have taken a different route? Persevere because just before the S102, 4 wild dogs on the road. They were chewing on the remains of an impala or other small antelope. What inquisitive animals!! They came round the car and sniffed everything and then later one decided that it liked the smell/taste of the rear fender and started trying to chew it. I had to start the car and move back to get him to stop. We were the only car there so it was wonderfully quiet. While sitting watching the wild dog I told Carol about this forumite, Mark, who is dilly over them!!

On the S102 and another kill!!
2 white rhinos were munching away a little off from the road before Mpondo Dam. Breakfast with Egyptian Geese swimming in front of us, the cry of the fish eagle and impala on the far bank. Who could ask for anything more.

We carried on along the S102 and then right at H5. Another white rhino along this road as well as wildebeest, zebra, impala and this eagle.

Right onto the S108. A few zebra, impala and giraffe. These young giraffe really have smart hairdo’s. (see previous post for picture)

As we turned left onto the S26 we came across this LIT. He was in the tree right next to the road. In fact I think we were too close to him by the time we saw him. We moved away but had disturbed his slumber and he did not like the attention he was getting.


If we did not see a single other animal during our stay, we would not have minded!! (Easy to say in hindsight!!). To be so close to a superb creature like this makes it all worthwhile. The leopard had just walked across the road and disappeared into the bush when a car arrived and we had the sad task of telling them that they had just missed the LIT.
A few hundred metres on we came across a pair of Bushbuck but although the female crossed the road in front of us, the male stayed in the bush and would not cross. Very wiley and careful creatures these.
A few impala and Zebra on the way back to camp for the necessary pitstop. We were back at our chalet by 10.30 am after a very successful morning.
I think I will have to get one of these campervans with a built in loo as planning outings so that we are not out too long becomes complicated!! More about this later.

I have adjusted the previous pictures and they appear to be coming out OK.

DAY 3 – Tuesday 15 August 2006 – Crocodile Bridge
Midday Outing
Having relaxed for a while and as we were due to go on the sunset drive later, it was time for a leisurely drive to try and find Duke. We went up the H4-2, along the S130, right onto the S137 and back along the S28 with a stop at Nhlanganzwani Dam. No Duke.
A longtailed shrike taking off.
We drove the S137 to Duke’s waterhole twice during our trip and on both occasions found very little sign of life along the route. Maybe it is because of the time of day we drove, once was at about 2.30 and this time was about 1.00. How have other people found this short road?

A drive to the Hippo Pool only produced a ranger on his bicycle along the S27. It was about 2.30 so I presume the escorted walks to the pool are in the morning only?
DB reminding us of the speed limit.

We relaxed at the Gezintfombi Dam before going back to get ready for the sunset drive.

Sightings
H4-2 Giraffe, Impala, Wildebeest
S130 Elephants and Impala
S137 Wildebeest just before S28
Nhlanganzwani Dam – 2 elephant, Hippo and impala
S28 Kudu, Zebra, Giraffe, Wildebeest and Impala

DAY 3 – Tuesday 15 August 2006 – Crocodile Bridge
Sunset Drive

The sunset drive left the camp at 5.00 pm. We were in one of the smaller jeeps that only take 10 people. We much prefer these compared to the larger trucks that take about 20 passengers. They are more personal and you don’t have people shining lights all over the place when something has been spotted.
Our guide for the evening was Kinsani, a very knowledgeable, quietish and pleasant ranger.
We turned right just out of the gates and then left and followed the electricity/telephone poles all the way to the S130. Back a short way along the S130 and then the tar road home.
Our first stop was at the low level bridge crossing the Vurhami River to watch the kingfisher working for their supper. A pair of black crake scampered past too quickly to take a picture.
Before it was dark, we had seen 3 Kudu males, Giraffe, Zebra, Wildebeest and 2 White Rhino. As it got dark we came to the largest herd of buffalo that we have ever seen. One of the people in the jeep said there must have been 1,500 of them but so as not to exaggerate, let’s say the herd was a 1,000 strong. We drove through the middle of them and everywhere the spotlights were shining, all you saw were eyes looking at you. Stopping every 50 to 100 metres, it took us about 30 minutes to drive through them. An unforgetable experience.
Other animals along the drive – 3 more white rhinos, duiker, steenbok, bushbuck and surprise, surprise – impala.
We were very lucky to see a number of nocturnal animals as well. A serval stayed in the spotlight for close to 10 minutes enabling everyone to get a good look at him. The most interesting find of the night was a white tailed mongoose. Kensani informed us that she sees it regularly where the S130 joins the H4-2 so if you are planning a sunset/night drive from CB, ask your guide to take you there, it is really worthwhile.
Other noctural animals seen – Large-spotted genet, small-spotted genet, civet, lots of bushbabies (on S130 close to mongoose) and scrubhare.
Although we did not see any cats, it was one of the best drives I have been on.
We were back in camp just after 8.00 pm. In winter this is a excellent drive to take as you see a bit of game before it gets dark, then you have about 2 hours of nighttime viewing and you are back in camp at a reasonable hour

Here are a few pictures of the Wild Dogs along S26 and a Goliath Heron at Lake Panic

DAY 4 – Wednesday 16 August 2006 – Crocodile Bridge to Shingwedzi

Today was always going to be a long day. When I had originally done our booking, I could not get accommodation further up (apart from Skukuza which we did not want). We had never been further North than Letaba so were determined to go to Shingwedzi to see what it was like. Later on we could have obtained room further up from CB due to cancellations but by then we had booked sunset drives etc. so we left everything as it was.

The weather today was a complete contrast to yesterday. The cold front had made its way through in the early hours and it was cold and blustery. Due to the cold and windy conditions, animals were very scarce with the normally reliable S28 producing nothing. We spotted a hyena by Lower Sabie, a reedbuck ewe in the burnt grass before Nkumbe where we had a good sighting of a Klipspringer.

Past Tshokwane, a herd of about 100 buffalo are grazing on the river bank and a little further we see a few elephant.
Round Satara there is a bit of general game as well as the 5 “resident” buffalo near the bridge. We have seen them in this area just about every time we pass here. We also spot the first Waterbuck of this trip.

The mopani bush just past Letaba seems a lot thinner than 2 years ago. There appears to be a lot more open spaces.

Towards Mopani we spot a Korhaan next to the road. They really blend in well with the dry winter grass.

Just past Mopani at Bowker’s Kop waterhole, a lion and lioness are doing the usual relaxing and snoozing.
A few kms along and a Doublebanded Sandgrouse family are on the edge of the road.

I had not seen these birds before and had to dig in the birdbook to find them as they were not in the Kruger Park guide. By the way, I much prefer the guide with the lion on the cover compared to this year’s guide.
A bit further on we encounter a roadkill. It appears to be the remains of a hare which a Bateleur and juvenile are busy cleaning up.

These juveniles are difficult to identify. Being new to birding, I was convinced it looked like a brown snake eagle. The ranger at Shingwedzi identified it for me explaining that the juvenile will stay with the parent for quite a long time so you are likely to see them with the adult.

By the Joao waterhole was this sickly looking giraffe. I seem to remember somebody having mentioned it on a previous thread.

We arrived at Shingwedzi in good time, partly as a result of very little game being out and about.

DAY 4 – Thursday 17 August 2006 – Shingwedzi – Punda Maria – Shingwedzi

The wind from yesterday had died down, so it was a comfortable day with temperatures reaching around 26. We took the S50 to the Kanniedood Dam wall and back seeing a few Nyala and a pair of Bushbuck. Along the S135 and the S55 which was deserted and then onto the S56 (Mphongolo Loop). What a lovely road. It follows the river for most of its length and has some awesome trees along it. Although we did not see a huge amount of game along it, we still saw elephant, giraffe (including one that seemed to only have one horn, the other appeared sawn off!), impala, nyala, waterbuck and a very cute Sharpe’s Grysbok that stayed around us for about 5 minutes.

The H1-7 was quiet apart from a herd of about 10 buffalo. We then took the S58 and went up to the Dzundwini viewsight. It was along this road that we saw impressive looking Kudu, Nyala and some Waterbuck which were sitting down so I could not get a good picture of them.

Punda Maria for the compulsory toilet break and then along the S60. A few zebra, elephant and nyala before stopping along the S61 at Klopperfontein waterhole. We ate lunch and watched some very jumpy impala in the distance. Despite looking through the binoculars we could not see what was troubling them. Finally after about 15 minutes we see a Leopard’s head pop up. It must have caught an impala just before we arrived and now proceeded to pull it under some bushes. It was too far away to get any pictures but very exciting to watch through the binoculars. Animals have a very different mentality to us. They were determined to go along their chosen path and that is why they were so jumpy. Once the leopard had pulled its catch out of the way, they then proceeded to walk past. If it was me, I would not have hung around and would have taken a very wide detour past the leopard!!

We thought we were at The Klopperfontein waterhole only to drive round the corner and find the natural waterhole. We were a few minutes too late to watch some Eland drinking. They were busy making their way up the rise on the far side but I did manage a few pictures of them. There was also a stork at the waterhole. Please help with identifying it.

On the tar road back to Shingwedzi we saw a few elephants, zebra, impala and giraffe.

We really enjoyed the northern part of the part especially towards Punda Maria where the bush opens up a bit. You do not see as much game as in the south and this makes it more exciting. You even stop to watch impala!! The one minor disappointment was the birdlife. Everyone had told us that the birdlife was fantastic but we did not find it that different. I put that down to the time of year we were here and possibly the cooler weather. Looking at the habitat, I can imagine in summer it must be buzzing with birds.

DAY 4 – Thursday 17 August 2006 – Shingwedzi
Sunset Drive

This drive was in vehicle that took about 20 passengers, not our favorite. Too many people with some of them totally disinterested in the drive. Anyway our guide was an entertaining chap by the name of Jaluka.

We took the main entrance/exit from Shingwedzi, turned right along the H1-7, then left onto the S56 (Mphongolo Loop) where we did the first loop before coming back to camp.

Our sightings before it got dark included elephant, baboons, impala, giraffe, kudu, nyala, a herd of about 100 buffalo along the riverbank and amoung the birds, 4 brown-headed parrots.

Once the sun set and the searchlights were working, we saw 2 side-striped jackal, steenbok including a pair with a very young calf, a porcupine and finally a young puff-adder warming itself on the tar.

DAY 5 – Friday 18 August 2006
Shingwedzi to Satara with detour through Olifants

Up early again and out of camp just after 6.00 am. Decided to do the S52 (Shingwedzi North Loop) to Redrocks. As with the Mphongolo Loop, this is a very picturesque drive keeping close to the river. Unfortunately we did not see a lot of game along the road. Impala, a few elephant and a few vultures attacking the last remains of a carcass in the riverbed being the only sightings.

Along the H1-6 we encountered an elephant family crossing the road. .

At Klein Shawu vultures were circling so we stopped to have a look. We managed to get a glimpse of a lion but it seemed as though they had finished their meal and the vultures had also cleaned up. They were all in the tree and bank of the waterhole and soon started taking off to continue their search for the next meal.
Ten kms from Letaba, 4 Tsessebe and a wildebeest cross the road at a canter a few hundred metres ahead of us. They move effortlessly and cover a lot of ground in next to no time.

The area around Letaba always has Saddlebilled Stork, Hippos, Waterbuck and Impalas.
We have a bit of time so take the S46 – S93 to Olifants. What a busy road with lots of cowboys driving along it!! Although we did see waterbuck, wildebeest, giraffe, elephant, impalas, hippos and lots of vultures (again it appeared as though they had finished their meal), it was not a pleasant drive with people rushing past and dust everywhere.

Along the much quieter and more pleasant S92 and S91. At the river crossing by Balule we spot what I think is a Marsh Sandpiper. and a Grey Duiker resting in the shade.

Along the S39 (Timbavati Road), we stop at the Goedgegun waterhole and watch impala, wildebeest and zebra satisfy their thirst while we do the same.
We enjoyed this road as well. It follows the river course and you are not sure what surprise you may find round the next bend. We saw lots of general game and on a good day I am sure you will see cats along this route.
Having stopped at the Ratel Pan birdhide
we were just a few kms from Timbavati picnic spot, and a much needed toilet break, when we hit an elephant roadblock!! We reversed to give them room to move down to the river but quite naturally they were in no hurry. One individual found a tasty shrub right next to the road and must have spent a good 20 minutes munching away. While we watched from the shade of some trees, other cars tried to edge their way past with no success. After 50 minutes we finally eased past and made a beeline for the Timbavati toilets. What a relief!

Along the S40 we saw kudu, impala, zebra, some giraffe and by Ngirivane waterhole a Hamerkop.

The H7 seems to always have general game along it and we see waterbuck, zebra, giraffe, wildebeest and impala. Just before Satara a hyena is starting his evening patrol as all the cars come streaming into the camp.

DAY 6 – Saturday 19 August 2006
Satara – Crocodile Bridge – Home

Our last day. We thought we would take a drive along the H6, S41 and then the S100 and see if anything turned up before heading out of Kruger. In this way we would not be looking into the sun as we searched for all the game along the legendary S100!!

Just before turning left along the H6 we noticed a few cars that had stopped and thought our luck was in. Although there were impala and waterbuck around, we could not see any cats and soon the cars dispersed.

Along the H6 and soon we had seen a fair amount of general game – wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, waterbuck, impala, a couple of elephants, steenbok and then a magnificent Martial Eagle warming himself up in the early morning sun.

Along the S41 we see impala, waterbuck, 4 black crakes squabbling in the river, giraffe, steenbok and a lone white rhino glares at us

Breakfast is next to a very full Gudzani Dam. It is so quiet and tranquil in the early morning. Some hippo are in the water. The only sounds you hear are when they come up for breath and then a fish eagle cries out across the dam before settling. Heaven on earth!!

Along the S100 we come across elephant, zebra, kudu, buffalo, giraffe, a troop of baboons, a fish eagle but no cats.

A quick stop at Satara and just outside the office entrance, a kind lady points out the Scops Owl to us. It is our first sight of one. They are so small and cute!!

From Satara it is a leisurely drive to Crocodile Bridge, savouring our last moments in the park. A rhino along the H10 and elephants playing in the Sabie River are the last of the big 5 we saw. African jacana, a grey heron and a saddle-billed stork greet us farewell on the Crocodile Bridge as we start the 7 hour journey home.

GENERAL THOUGHTS ON OUR TRIP
Kruger Park – 13 to 19 August 2006
Crocodile Bridge – Shingwedzi – Satara

A few final thoughts to finish off our report.

Our first thought was that we did too much traveling. I had wanted to see the northern part of the park and that was the reason for the distance traveled. We were therefore always limited for time. It is also very tiring. We decided that next time we would only go to one camp and relax a lot more. We normally only spend 5 or 6 days in the park so staying in one camp will not worry us.

North vs South – The verdict is still out on this one. There is definitely more game in the south but also more traffic. We would need to spend more time in the north before making our personal choice. We come to the park in the cooler months so would be worried about the heat up north in summer. I am sure birds are more plentiful up north so I suppose it is “no pain, no gain”.

Litter and behaviour - We have come to the park for the last 3 years. The litter problem has increased and the behaviour of people deteriorated. More and more people are driving around with children looking out through the sunroof. We also saw people getting out of their car. People, including the rangers who are setting a terrible example, do not keep to the speed limits. The visitors ablution facilities in most of the camps was below par. Often there was no soap or paper towel in them. I really believe Sanparks needs to get a firm control on all of this before it gets completely out of hand. They need to start with their own employees and work from there.

Vehicles for sunset/night drives – We much prefer the 10 seater vehicles. It is more personal and better controlled.

We need to get a vehicle with a built in loo!!

It is still the best place on earth for a holiday!!