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Kruger National Park August 2006

Animal list 2006

Vervet monkey
Baboon
Tree squirrel
Porcupine
African wild dog
Side-striped jackal
Blackbacked jackal
Civet
Genet (not sure which)
Slender mongoose
Banded mongoose
Dwarf mongoose
Spotted hyaena
Lion
Serval
African elephant
White rhinoceros
Zebra
Scrub hare
Warthog
Hippopotamus
Giraffe
Blue wildebeest
Lichtenstein’s hartebeest
Common duiker
Klipspringer
Steenbok
Impala
Sable antelope
Buffalo
Kudu
Nyala
Bushbuck
Reedbuck
Waterbuck

Terrapin
Leopard tortoise
Chameleon
Olive Grass Snake
Striped Grass Snake
Boomslang
Yellow-throated Plated Lizard

Cape vulture
White-backed vulture
White-headed vulture
Tawny eagle
Martial eagle
Bateleur
African fish eagle
African harrier-hawk
African scops-owl
White-faced Scops owl
Spotted eagle-owl
Pel’s fishing owl

Common ostrich
Darter
Grey heron
Goliath heron
Great egret
Little egret
Hamerkop
White stork
Black stork
Woolly-necked stork
Saddle-billed stork
Marabou stork
Yellowbilled stork
Hadedah ibis
Egyptian goose
Helmeted guineafowl
Black crake
Red-crested korhaan
African jacana
Three-banded plover
Spotted thick-knee
Brown-headed parrot
Grey go-away-bird
Burchell’s coucal
Pied kingfisher
Malachite kingfisher
Brown-hooded kingfisher
Striped kingfisher
White-fronted bee-eater
Lilac-breasted roller
Purple roller
Hoopoe
African grey hornbill
Red-billed hornbill
Southern yellow-billed hornbill
Southern ground hornbill
Black-collared barbet
Crested barbet
Honeyguide
Fork-tailed drongo
Black-headed oriole
Swallow
Wire-tailed swallow
Arrowmarked babbler
Dark-capped bulbul
African pied wagtail
Magpie shrike
Cape glossy starling
Yellow-billed oxpecker
Red-billed oxpecker
Ducks
Francolins
Doves
Sunbirds
Nightjars

[list still under construction]

Berg en Dal

We had never been to Berg en Dal before, so booking 6 nights was a bit of a gamble. We felt we had won the jackpot after arriving though. The bungalow was absolutely lovely, with a great view and lots of privacy.

We arrived quite late in the afternoon and were still unpacking the car when Stephen came by to see how we were doing. It was great to meet the man behind the very special bush stories.

The next morning we slept late. After hardly sleeping for three nights in a row, we needed a rest. We strolled down to the shops to have a look and to have a toasted sandwich, the South African equivalent of our tosti. After lunch we went for a slow drive on the S110 and on to the H3. We were almost back at camp on the tar stretch of the S110 when we saw a wild dog running around. I couldn’t believe my luck. Hardly in the park and we spotted wild dog already. It was all on its own, tearing away at its dinner, and running around in all directions, checking if the coast was still clear.

We got up early the next day to do the morning walk. The weather changed rather suddenly and it got very windy and cloudy. We didn’t see many animals on the walk, even hardly any birds, but our guides treated us to a very informative and entertaining walk. We gave them a big tip. Back at Berg en Dal we had breakfast at the quick service and went for a drive on the S114. We didn’t spot much and went back to camp and decided to walk the rhino trail to the restaurant and have a drink there. We were waiting for Freda and her SO to arrive. I sent an sms to see what they were up to, they were at Matjula waterhole resting after the long journey up to KNP. We agreed to meet at our bungalow for a braai. We had a super evening.

Highlights in pictures

Birding is great in Berg en Dal. And there are lots of small animals in the camp and of course there's wildlife at the fence.

Excellent start, can´t wait for more!

Freda and SO invited us to join them on the 4x4 trail, starting in Pretoriuskop. So Thursday morning we got up early and set off to Pretoriuskop. We spotted hornbills, Woolly-necked storks, Burchell’s Coucal, rhino, White-backed vultures, impala, kudu and Lichtenstein’s Hartebeest. Freda got a nice picture of it, posted here.

We arrived 2 hours later, only to find out that the 4x4 trail was closed. To get over the disappointment Mr Freda made us breakfast. Best breakfast in Kruger ever! After breakfast we went off on the H1-1 where we saw elephant, brown-hooded parrots, African Hoopoe, a herd of sable, and stopping at Vervoer Dam we saw hippo, a Malachite Kingfisher and waterbuck.

On the way back on the S114 we saw kudu, a klipspringer, Tawny Eagle, steenbok and we spotted a yellow ribbon (Bush Baptist and dad). We stopped at Afsaal, where we saw the Scops Owl, which is a white-faced Scops Owl. (I think) South of Afsaal, two hyaena cubs were hanging out near their den. We watched them a while and got a few lovely photos.

We ended the day with another yellow ribbon (Nico & Yvonne) giraffe, zebra and a rhino on the S11 gravel road. We arrived at Berg en Dal around 6 PM. We were in bed and sleeping before 7.30.

I got up after a good night’s sleep to hurry to the laundry. After hanging it up to dry, we left for a morning drive. I can’t seem to find any notes of this drive, so it probably wasn’t that spectacular. After folding the now dry laundry, we went off to grab a bite of lunch and Stephen joined us for a quick chat. I suddenly spotted Macho Mouse meandering by. We flagged her down and she joined us for a beer. Not too long after that Jay and her nephew arrived too. We were starting to wonder where Freda and SO were, when they popped up. We had a pre meet drink and then went back to the bungalow to start preparations. I had promised Jay to make a vegetarian dish and some vegetables needed chopping. So Freda and I enjoyed a drink while our personnel chopped away.

At 6 we all met at the lapa. Stephen had a big fire going and everyone just chatted away like old friends. The meet was a huge success. We should try to make this an annual event.


Photo made by Deville

Mediterranean veggies

1 aubergine
1 baby marrow
1 red paprika
1 yellow paprika
2 red onions cut in rings
2 cloves of garlic finely chopped (2 or more cloves)
1 can of artichokes
4 table spoons of olive oil
200g soft goat cheese, but feta will do as well.
fresh herbs (rosemary, sage, thyme)
black olives
pepper and salt

grill basket

Wash the aubergine, baby marrow and paprika’s and chop them into chunks. Set the aubergine aside. Mix the vegetables with the onions, garlic, herbs, olives and olive oil. Set aside for 15 minutes and then add aubergine and artichokes. Put all in the grill basket and add lost of fresh grounded pepper and salt. Put on hot coals and cook for about 20 minutes. Crumble goat cheese over the top and wait till it melts.
Serve with a ciabatta.

The next morning we woke up feeling a bit tender. We decided to go on a short drive and then come back for some breakfast. Whilst driving on the S100 dirt road we were stopped by a safari jeep, who asked if we had seen lions yet. We shook a careful no, and he told us to head for Matjula waterhole. So off we went again.

There were about 20 cars or so all lined up on the left side of the road and had a nice view of the hole. We decided to go down and see if we could get a closer look. We drove down and discovered Freda and SO. They made a bit of room for us and we parked beside them. I glanced to my right and saw Macho Mouse in her car, pretending she was watching the lions.

Between lion sightings I mumbled something about a craving for coffee and before I knew what was happening Freda produced a lovely cup of strong black coffee. Thanks again, Freda.

After the lions moved to the shade and disappeared from our view we drove back to Berg en Dal. By this time it was becoming very hot. Temperatures were rising to 40C. Not a good temperature for the slightly hungover. I decided to chill a bit in the bungalow with the AC on.

Meanwhile Macho failed to book a bungalow and was meandering about the camp. Luckily she found our bungalow just before she melted and we spent the rest of the afternoon chatting away in a cool cool bungalow.

At the end of the afternoon Freda and Mr Freda popped up and after a beer or two we thought it might be a good idea to put up MM's tent. So MM and M went off to the camping site. After about 15 minutes they returned saying all was well, but there weren't any tent poles. So, that's how MM ended up sleeping in our bungalow.

The next day we all got up early and said our goodbyes. We left for Lower Sabie where we would meet up with Jay and her nephew again.

Lower Sabie

We left for Lower Sabie taking the S25 and saw elephant, giraffe, fish eagles, a Tawny eagle and slender mongoose.



We checked in to our lovely safari tent. [Nr 18] We were happy to see that our deck had afternoon shade, so we could relax and watch the wildlife at the river. There were lots of birds in the trees and shrubs around the tent.



Just before six we went to the deck of the bar. A lone elephant bull was drinking water, while we sipped a Spitting Cobra and watched the sun set over the river. What a beautiful sight.

We met Jay and her nephew for dinner at Lower Sabie’s restaurant. We enjoyed the buffet, especially the lovely pumpkin dish!

The next morning we got up early to do another morning walk. After 5 minutes we saw a serval. What a great way to start the day. During a walk you don’t usually see many animals as they can see, smell or hear you coming from miles away, but we saw a duiker and shortly after that our second serval. It jumped up from its hiding place and bounced away through the high grass. I was too surprised to take a picture.

The guides weren’t really into birding, (the feathered kind, they did seem very interested in the three young girls on the walk with us) but I managed to see and ID Burchell’s Coucal, hamerkop, marabou, a stork and bateleur. On the way back in the truck we spotted warthog, 2 male ostriches dancing, impalas, go-away-birds, a darter and a slender mongoose.

1. The tents do need to be renovated, the woodwork is worn out and needs to be varnished. We didn't have a lock on our door, so the baboons could open the door. We shoved the table in front of the door and locked all food in the car. The baboons visited the neighbours at nr 15 twice because they kept food in their tent. Not a pretty sight.
The baboons roam the whole camp, not only the safari tents. The morning we left about 10 armed rangers were looking for them, after they had upturned every single trashcan in Lower Sabie.

I can really recommend nr 18, especially if you like to have a bit of shade. We loved our stay there and we will certainly come back again.

2. Tequila.

That afternoon we followed Jay out Kruger Gate to have a look at their new house just outside the gates. We saw many ground hornbills on our way up. They seem to be doing very well.



The next day we drove northwards ending up at Tshokwane picnic spot. We saw Goliath heron, a big herd of zebra and wildebeest, bateleur, vultures, hippo, ellies, the ears of a duiker, (I think it was a duiker) waterbuck, baboons, a sitting giraffe, steenbok, kudu, lilac-breasted rollers, geese, African jacana and a tawny eagle.

After a quick toasted sandwich, we got ready for our sunset drive. We left just after 5 and drove to Sunset Dam where we watched the baboons for a while.



The first hour or so was a bit quiet but then we found ourselves in the middle of a huge herd of buffalo and after that, it was hard to keep up. We saw several genets, one of them really put on a show for us.

Then we saw our third serval. It was hunting a scrub hare, quite close to the road. The hunt was spoilt, probably by the spotlights; I suppose the scrub hare must have been relieved.



The list goes on with steenbokkies, lots of Nightjars, hippos, crocs, a duiker, reedbuck, waterbuck, a little snake, and a mouse. Then the guide took us to an elephant carcass (eish, the smell!) A lioness was still there. She had two cubs, which stopped playing for a moment to inspect us and then continued doing lion cub stuff. After that wonderful sighting, we spotted a civet, a porcupine and a side-striped jackal before arriving at Lower Sabie at 9 pm.

The next morning we spoilt ourselves on Lower Sabie’s delicious breakfast buffet, before leaving for Skukuza.

Skukuza

We booked a riverside bungalow for three nights in Skukuza. I requested a number as far west as possible and we got number 87, which was lovely. But then, all the bungalows west of the restaurant looked equally lovely and have a great view of the river and the old railroad bridge. Every morning and every night, the baboons would cross the bridge. We saw quite a lot of wildlife from our veranda. Birds, hippos in the river, elephants, a saddle-billed stork. A family of banded mongoose visited us at the bungalow and there were vervets too of course.

We set off to Lake Panic and had some lovely sightings there. We saw bushbuck, herons, egrets, darters, a Goliath heron, African jacana, crocs, hippos, geese, terrapins and a Giant kingfisher.

The heron kept teasing the poor terrapin and would peck its head every now and then.