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SANParks: A Journey of Discovery

Life is a journey of discovery and what better place to start your journey of discovery, other than in the SANParks. Not only do you get the opportunity to experience life in its natural habitat, you also become one with nature as a guest of the SANParks.

Let’s break away from the rat race of the concrete jungle we live in; as we share in the misperception that life is great, till we enter into the heart of Mother Nature with her own mysterious majesty of peace and tranquillity.

From the moment that you enter the realms of the Kruger National Park and experience the peace and quiet that you did not realise could exist out there, you are a changed person. Pitching your tent, unpacking your caravan or inspecting your luxury accommodation, all is done in slow motion, time has stopped. The skies are bright blue and the clouds more brilliant as if washed cleaner by natures own detergents. The far off call of the African Fish Eagle welcomes you officially to the Crocodile Bridge Camp.

Your journey of discovery begins within the confines of your campsite, leaving you awestruck at the size of Marula, Knob thorn and Apple-leaf trees, the colourful shrubs and even the smallest crawling creatures. Instead of stomping on the thin line of black ants marching towards its destination of feast and survival, you now allow them to pass and even warn your family members not to step on natures little workforce. Explaining that they are a critical part of nature’s cleanup team and we should not harm them.

Armed with your illustrated roadmap of the park, camera and binoculars, it has now become time to drive out into the Park to continue your journey and join the thousands of other explorers before you who started their discovery of the vastness of this majestic 20 000 Km², part of nature. Travelling along route H4-2 at the recommended 50km/h speed limit and even slowing down to a steady crawl, so as not to miss anything, the anticipation as to who is going to spot the first of natures wonderful creatures is electrifying.

As you drive along towards Lower Sabie camp, surrounded by bush and flanked by the lush green river bed of the Sabie River, you can’t help to pull of the road to once again savour the moment and to realise that we humans are just a small piece of nature’s big puzzle.

Impala are found in abundance grazing in the bush and next to the road sides, keeping a watchful eye on you as you slowly pass by. As you pass Lower Sabie camp, you pull over once again to join other vehicles at the Sunset dam, and you gaze in amazement at the Hippo’s as they lazily float around, yawning their famous “Chomp”, big mouth yawns. On the far banks of the waterhole watched over by a lonely Marabou stork a crocodile has stretched out in the hot African sun enjoying an undisturbed sleep as only it can do.

Time to move on as there is still much more to be discovered on this journey of ours. “Stop look there on the right”, comes the exited call from my wife. Hastily the brakes are applied and all heads turn in the direction indicated, to be greeted by elegance and grace of a Giraffe, as it slowly makes its way toward the succulent feast awaiting it in the shape of a Tamboti tree. We leave it feasting on the succulent leafs that only it can reach with it long neck and tongue.

Crossing the bridge over the Sabie River on route H10 we are greeted by a troop of baboons and their young frolicking about, carrying out their daily inspections of each other, catching fleas or just grooming each other. Undisturbed by this joyful frolicking, perched on the bridge railing a giant Kingfisher awaits it’s pray of small fish dashing about in the clear river water, a hippo blows a spout of water towards the bright skies as it emerges from it’s underwater playgrounds. As we move along, the dense bush starts making way for vast stretches of flat lands, graced with grey granite foothills of the Lebombo mountain range.

We are now entering the playgrounds of the Elephants, Wildebeest, Zebra, Buffalo and even the odd Ostrich. Who would believe you if you told them that you could lose a 5000 kg elephant bull in the blink of eye as it stroll’s into the roadside thicket after crossing the road in front of your eyes not two minutes ago? Slowly we travel in the direction of Tshokwane picnic area, swerving in and out so as not to splat the centipedes crossing the road after a nice shower earlier on. Mesmerised once again by the wonder of nature as four European Bea eaters entertain us with nature’s version of musical chairs in the middle of the road. Eventually they tire of their game and fly of to perch on a dead tree branch next to the road as if wanting to say, “Move along the next customers is on their way for the next show”.

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From Tshokwane we take route H1-2 towards Skukuza. Once again nature is full of surprises as by now everybody is famished and it is time to feast on their famous Buffalo pies, gravy and chips while we sit under the thatched lapa, watching the lonely elephant taking a shower in the Sabie River. Your attention is drawn to the inside of the thatched roof by other tourists staring, pointing and excitedly taking photos. At first you imagine this must be a first for them, but then curiosity gets the better of you and you to look up to see what all the excitement is all about This is where you bow down to nature once again on your journey of discovery, because the myth that bats only live in caves and in dark places is for once and all erased from your mind.

Like biltong being hung out to dry, scores of fruit bats have attached them selves to the inside of the thatched roof, enjoying their daily nap before flying of at night in search of food. But the most amazing thing is that these little wonders of nature, hangs there in broad daylight, undisturbed by the human activity beneath them. On closer inspection some of them have been equipped with minute transmitters, allowing researchers to monitor their nocturnal activities.

After lunch, we consult our road map to determine the best route back to Crocodile Bridge camp, so as to adhere to the set closing time for all camp gates in the KNP. It is decided to take the gravel roads and venture deeper into the bush: the living area of the animals. From route H1-1 we turn of onto S114 and travel along till we turn of on S26 towards the Gayisenga water hole.
The African jacanas or better known as the lillytrotter can be seen foraging about at the edge of the waterhole, while a few Water buck stop their activities to keep a wary eye on the new intruders at their little piece of heaven. An abundance of bird life contributes to the peace and tranquillity with their clear calls and sudden burst of flight as they play around the edge of the water hole with the sun taking its bow reflected as a big orange blob on the shimmering water surface.

The S25 takes us back to camp along the banks of the Crocodile River. It is time to settle down, light a fire, sit back, relax and allow your mind to go back and reflect on the journey of discovery you took today for you just realised that tomorrow an even greater journey and discovery awaits you.

Nightlife in the bush can not be compared with what we are used to back at home. Instead of sky scrapers, flashing neon signs and sirens, the sky is filled with more brilliant stars than you have seen in your life, fireflies with their glowing tails flying about and the sonic echoes of bats calling to each other, fills the pitch black night about you. In the early morning hours or was it closer to midnight, the silence of the night was split by the roar of the king of the jungle, announcing his presence, creating some order in the animal kingdom causing the hyena to giggle nervously just outside the camp fence scavenging for scraps of braaivleis tossed their by some campers, regardless to the signs all along the fence prohibiting you from just such an unlawful act.

The early bird catches the worm, but now it becomes the early riser catches the previous nights kill. A quick mug of steaming coffee and a rusk or two and we are ready for the new day and discoveries. Gates open at six o’clock sharp and already we queue to leave the camp. Today we will travel the gravel roads again towards Afsaal picnic spot and on to Pretoriuskop, the area renown to the legendary Jock of the Bushveld, the half breed dog, the runt of the pack that nobody gave a chance to live, which grew up to become a legend of its time.

How can it be that in an environment that is supposed to be alive with all species of animals, you can drive for hours without seeing anything bigger than an Impala? Someone once told me that animals are not tied to the trees, so do not be disappointed if you do not see much every day. How wrong can we be? What about the little tortoise not bigger than my shoe slowly making its way along the road to its destination or the camelian crossing the road, rocking back and forth as if it has just stepped of a ship from the high seas, the angry black snake hissing and launching an attack, because you dared enter its private space with your vehicle or did you ever stop next to an elephants dung heap to observe the dung beatles at work? Then the truth dawns on you, there is more to the wild than just the big five. Even the minute little creatures have their place in the wild, another journey of discovery revealed to you.

“Remember next time you drive over an elephant dropping because you believe it will bring you good luck and you will see more animals, that you have just destroyed an integral part of nature’s eco system.”
Why not put up a sightings board at all the camps where you can show all the little guys you saw today?

Afsaal picnic spot is a welcome rest haven as we lazily stretch our legs and then quickly make our way towards the rest room. Take some time out for hot coffee and a few minutes to discuss what we have seen up to now with other travellers. Route H2-2 is calling and we still want to stop over at Pretoriuskop as well. Did you notice those little shrines with the copper plaques on them next to the road, or should I rather say those that still have the plaques attached to them? Make time to stop next to them and to read what is engraved on it. Remember this is the route of the famous Jock of the Bushveld.

Been on top of the world lately? If not then stop over, or rather drive to the top of the Mathekenyane rock. You are allowed to embark from your vehicle and take in the serenity of your surrounding amidst the cloud speckled skies and the wild, untamed bush. A plaque has been attached to the rock side in memory of a dearly departed family member. It was not possible to go nearer for a closer look, as someone has decided that the path would be good place to use as toilet. Could they not have waited and driven the 10 km to Skukuza with all the toilet facilities a person can ask for? But this little incident is not enough to dampen our spirits, and we drive of to Skukuza for brunch and to fill up on our liquid refreshments and that of our vehicle too.

From Skukuza we take route H4-1. Wild dogs are not animals often seen in the KNP, so how fortunate could we be when we find a pack of Wild Dogs on the side and on the road right in front of us. Moving in and out of the bush, barely paying attention to the vehicles, playfully snapping at each other and as mysteriously as only they can be they disappear into the dense foliage. Past Lower Sabie Camp we turn off onto route S28 towards the Ntandanyathi water hole and hideout. Here we find a couple of warthogs wallowing in the mud busy with their beauty treatment, as some Zeebra and Wildebeest, lazily flick their tails at the flies pestering them in the shade of some Tamboti trees. Who keeps track of time when you are surrounded by nature and all the wonderful things she has to offer you? The sun has to make place for the moon and it becomes time for nature’s nocturnal creatures to do their magic. So of to camp we go for another magical evening of amazing starlit skies and sounds that, were they heard during day time, it would have had no effect at all.

Ever been woken by the roar of a lion instead of your alarm clock? From your friend’s tent next door, you hear the nervous voice of his wife, “Did you hear that, can you see it?” You check your watch to see what time it is and if you have time to snooze a bit longer, but when the lion expresses its feeling again with another big roar you decide against it. Well who else can sleep after the king of the jungle has expressed his feelings about the previous night hunting experience so close to your camp site?

Route S25 and then S26 onto S114 takes you to Renoster-koppies lookout and dam. Nature supplies its own natural camouflage to its creatures as once again it’s proven when we nearly pass three lions (two males and a female) next to the roadside, stretched out on their sides and back in the dry grass. Fortunate at that stage we were the only vehicle there and we could pull up close to them. What a magnificent sight, these battle scarred animals enjoying their cat nap. As I zoom in with my camera, I notice that the one male has a gaping wound on his side and it was not long till it lifted its head to give us a piercing stare with the most intense yellow eyes, (I even want to say scary eyes) that one has seen in your life, obviously irritated by our presence.

A rather uneventful afternoon other than the lion sightings sees us heading back to camp along H4-2 to be stunned into silence once again, as just outside of our camp we find a magnificent species of the White Rhino, bathed in the late afternoon’s sun rays. It may have been a statue chiselled out of rock, as it stood there motionless, waiting for someone to come along, pick it up and stow it away in a cupboard and switch of mother natures spotlight shining down upon it.

All good things come to an end and the next morning sees us heading back to the unforgiving concrete jungle, with its own mysteries and dangers which we could rather live without. But what an unforgettable journey of discovery this was in the Kruger National Park. Becoming one with nature and its rich abundance of Fauna and Flaura, big and small, flying or crawling, sounds at night and by day that no where else you will hear except in the heart of Mother Nature.